長崎とその周辺

40. Nagasaki and its Environs.

Arrival. The rly. station is in the N. quarter of the city (Pl. B, 2) about 1 M. from the center.

Autos, tramcars, and jinrikis are available. Before employing jinrikishas (which are fast being replaced by autos) one should come to an agreement with the pullers, as prices are unstable. Learn before undertaking country trips what the auto fares will be.

Hotels. Among the several hotels one of the best liked is the Japan Hotel, near Bund (Pl. C, 3). Rates from 8 yen a day, American Plan. English spoken. Comfortable. Good food and service. Other hotels and Inns are the Kaida, Uenoya, and Fukushimaya. In summer the most comfortable rooms are those which get the S.W. breeze (which prevails nearly every day until the end of Aug.).

Steamships of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha run to various points, as do those of the Osaka Shosen Kaisha. The N.Y.K. Shanghai Express Service is popular (fine, big, speedy, comfortable ships with good food and service, and low rates). For time of sailing, etc., apply to the local agent.

The Japan Tourist Bureau has an office in Nagasaki, and is of great help to travelers. The excellent service is free.

Banks, where drafts can be cashed, etc. National City Bank of New York (Successors to the International Banking Corporation). - The Yokohama Specie Bank Ltd.

Money Changers abound, but the wise traveler unacquainted with the intricacies of exchange, will do well to confine such operations to the banks mentioned.

Climate. The winter climate is fine and equable. The summer months are hot, but are usually tempered by sea-breezes. In Aug.-Sept. these sometimes develop into typhoons (p. lxviii) which whip the coast with unrestrained fury. The region is comparatively free from earthquakes.

Photography. The traveler is cautioned against bringing cameras ashore or carrying them through the sts. Nagasaki is a fortified port, and photographing, sketching, or the making of notes of topographical features is prohibited by the War Department. The Military Zone extends for some distance roundabout. Arrest and possibly long detention will inevitably result if the admonition is disobeyed. Professed ignorance of the restrictions will not avail one, as signs in English acquainting the traveler with the ruling are placed at many conspicuous points throughout the city.

Curio-Shops (comp. p. cxii) are many, with flexible prices. Foreigners are usually asked much more than the goods are worth or the dealer expects to receive. Good curios can be bought to better advantage at Yokohama, Tokyo, or Kyoto. The manufacture of tortoise-shell articles (bekko) is a local specialty. The carets, or hawk's-bill sea-turtles, which furnish the shell are caught in limited numbers in the sea S. of Kyushu, and are more plentiful in the tropical water farther S. The carving and shaping of the shell is usually done in small shops (several in Motokago-machi and Funadaiku-machi) in full view of passers-by. The finished articles cover a wide range, from miniature war-ships to jinrikis and toilet-sets. The quality of tortoise-shell depends mainly on the thickness and size of the scales, and in a smaller degree upon the clearness and brilliancy of the colors. The traveler should assure himself that he is not purchasing skillfully manipulated celluloid or horn; green shell that will crack and split under the influence of brusque climatic changes; small shells cunningly glued together (welded under the pressure of hot irons) and made to look like large single pieces; very thin shell which warps, or low-grade stuff generally. - The blue-and-white porcelain seen in so many of the shops comes from Hirado.

Consuls are accredited to Nagasaki from many countries. For their addresses, which are apt to change, consult the local directory.

Walks & Excursions possible in the environs are many and delightful. Weeks can be spent exploring them. The Japan Tourist Bureau will be of material assistance to whomsoever will consult it. One of the most popular excursions is to Unsen (see p. 669).

Nagasaki (pronounced nahng-ah-sah'-key), or 'Long Cape,' a busy commercial port (pop. 190,000) at the S.W. end of Kyushu Island, 868 M. from Tokyo, in Hizen Province, is the W. terminus of the Imperial Gov't Rlys. and stands in lat. 32° 44' N., and long. 129° 52' E. of Greenwich. Its position at the N. extremity of the beautiful land-locked Nagasaki Bay, at the foot of perennially green hills which rise in picturesque confusion behind it, is very attractive. It is often made the port of entry for travelers from China, Manila, the East Indies, and from Europe via the Suez Canal, and the stepping-off place for tourists bound from Japan to those countries. Formerly it was the chief point of departure for Korean, Manchurian, and North China ports, but the fast express service of the Gov't Rly. steamers which now ply between Shimonoseki and Fusan have made that port the choice of

most travelers. Its prestige declined materially after the Japan-Russia War; prior thereto it was the rendezvous for many of the ships of the Czar's Asiatic Squadron, and in none of the Nipponese cities was Muscovite influence so marked. The hotels reaped a shining harvest from the families of the fleet's officers who wintered here to escape the rigors of the Siberian climate, and as the Russians were high livers and liberal spenders, the tradesmen were glad. Relics of this prosperous era are the many Russian sign-boards which the traveler will note above the shop-doors; a smattering of the language is spoken by many residents of the port. Formerly, too, most of the big European liners made Nagasaki a regularly weekly or fortnightly port of call; some of these stop now but once a month - a fact the traveler may wish to bear in mind when making his plans. He may also want to remember that the Nippon Yusen Kaisha ships for Shanghai have their best cabins bespoken well in advance of the Aug.-Sept. season. At this time many foreign residents along the Chinese littoral return from holidays spent at the cool hill-stations behind Nagasaki, and the excellence of the N.Y.K. ships, and the low fares make them very popular.

The crescent-shaped Bund extends along the water-front from Deshima (Pl. B, 3) at the N. to Sagarimatsu (Pl. B, 4) at the S., and is flanked by the S.S. Offices, Consulates, Banks, and Business houses. The Custom-House, the S.S. Landing, and the Post-Office are near the S. end of Deshima. The town is packed solidly in the narrow ravines which gash the hills at the E. and N.E. of the bay, and of the 24,000 houses many have been forced far up the hillsides, where they dispute the land with the temples, churches, and graveyards that rise tier upon tier above them. At the summit of the hills are gov't signal-stations and adjuncts of the port fortifications. The attractive and delightfully situated bungalows of the foreign residents stand on flower-decked terraces held in place by massive revetments extending up the slope from the Bund at Sagarimatsu. Scores of giant camphor laurels, cherry, vegetable-wax, magnolia, orange, conifers, and other trees overshadow the houses and impart a pleasing coolness. The rising character of the town - the bulk of which slopes back into a vast amphitheater formed by the hills - gives a charming appearance to it at night. When the myriad stars which twinkle with southern softness are reflected in the clear water of the bay, and challenge the blinking harbor-lights and the thousands of electric lamps on shore, countless tiny eyes seem to gleam from every point. When the city lights are further augmented by the soft yellow beams of many Bon Matsuri lanterns, the effect is beguiling. A number of canals which at eventide are thronged with house-boats, sampans, and fishing-craft reach back into the town, and are spanned at intervals

by picturesque, humped bridges. The several fish-markets are of unfailing interest. The warm waters of the coast produce many curious piscine forms, and the democratic fishermen tackle everything that swims. - The excellent building-stone employed in the construction of many of the houses in the port comes from Yagami-take, whose trachytic cone rises (2000 ft.) a few miles E. of the town.

The populous Chinese quarter is scarcely worth visiting, but the pretentious and imposing Yoshiwara (see p. 221) on Maruyama (Pl. C, 3) presents a curious and instructive spectacle after nightfall. The utmost order prevails, and the district is as safe as any other part of the port. In line with the custom prevailing in certain other cities, the sloe-eyed, statuesque houris of Nagasaki do not always sit in slatted cages facing the thoroughfare, but at the side, flanking the entrance to the establishment; to see them one must be sufficiently interested to advance a few paces inward from the street. Many of the houses are three-storied, with quaint balconies and species of hanging loggias. When these are decorated with paper lanterns, when throaty-voiced geisha sing the native contralto songs, and the plaintive twanging of samisen, the swish of silken kimonos and the soft pit-pat of tabi-shod feet are wafted out through the fragrant twilight, the effect is strikingly Oriental - and, to the native mind, alluring.

Nagasaki lacks the rich hinterland of Kobe and Yokohama, and exports are fewer. They include tortoise-shell wares, Arita porcelains, vegetable-wax, coal, rice, paper, dried lobsters and other crustaceans, mushrooms, sharks' fins, beche de mer, awabi-shell, tea, lacquered wares, paper-umbrellas, etc. A cheap lacquered ware inlaid with madreperl, a coarse earthenware, jelly made from seaweed and called kin-gyoku-to, and some of the most luscious watermelons in Japan are among the local specialties. - One of the greatest of the port festivals is the Bon Matsuri or 'Festival of the Dead,' which falls on July 13, 14, and 15, and is here observed more elaborately and with greater solemnity than at many other places in Japan. During the nights in question thousands of the people carry lanterns and decorate the graves of their dead with them, while many picturesque and illuminated boats fleck the harbor.

History. Nagasaki came prominently into history in the early years of the 12th cent. when the district - then a nondescript fishing-village called Pukae no ura - formed a part of the domain of Taira Norimori, a petty daimyo of that period. When the powerful Taira Clan was destroyed by Minamoto Yoshitsune in 1185, Minamoto Yoritomo gave the feudal holdings to Nagasaki Kotaro (upon condition of military service) and it remained in possession of that family (which gave it its present name) until the 16th cent. In 1550, it passed under the jurisdiction of Omura Sumitada who, jealous of the then growing trade of the Dutch factory at Hirado, opened it to foreign trade in 1568. After the Kyushu campaign of 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, observing the increased prosperity of the port, detached it from the domain of the Daimyo Omura and made it an Imperial city under the direct control of the shogun. In 1603, Tokugawa Ieyasu placed a bugyo (governor) there in the name of the shogun - the first of a long line which followed.

From 1641 to 1858, Nagasaki was the only town in Japan where the Dutch and the Chinese (to the exclusion of all other foreigners) were allowed to trade. It was one of the 5 ports opened to Europeans by the treaty (forced by Commodore Perry of the American squadron) of 1857. From the memorable day in 1543 when Fernao Mendes Pinto and his Portuguese free-lances arrived at Nagasaki it has been a sort of Far-Eastern clearing-house for Asia, Europe, and the Occident; a meeting-point of nations. In the time of Kaempfer it was one of the richest and most important seaport towns of Japan - made so by traffic with foreigners. It is a reliquary of the history of foreign intercourse with Japan, and the annals of the place are red with the slaughter of the Christian martyrs who braved the shogunal edicts and practiced the Jesuit faith during the Middle Ages. Here a long and saddening list of unfortunates were burned at the stake, subjected to the water-torture or to that of the pit, buried alive, beheaded, tortured, and crucified, between the years 1597 and 1700. Significant of Japan's attitude at that time toward foreigners and the foreign faith was the death of Luis Paez Pacheco, who came here about 1630 as chief of an embassy from Macao, to the shogun, Iemitsu. He was promptly beheaded with nearly all his companions - 12 Portuguese, 4 Spaniards, 17 Chinese, 4 Bengalese, and 18 Malays; 13 sailors were spared and sent back to Macao with the information that 'henceforth any one who would put his foot on Japanese soil, were he the King of Portugal, were he even the God of the Christians, would be put to death'! Prior thereto (in 1610) Andrew Pessoa came to Nagasaki in a carack called Madre de Dios, and for 3 days 1200 Japanese endeavored to set the ship on fire. Finally Pessoa, despairing of saving himself, set fire to the casks of powder and blew up his ship, sending all on board into eternity, along with hundreds of natives and their junks. In 1808, Captain Fleetwood Pellew, of the English ship-of-war Phaeton, entered the bay to take on a supply of water. The bugyo of the port, Matsudaira Yasuhide, made strenuous efforts to burn the ship, and so chagrined was he at his failure to do so that he and 5 of his military commanders committed harakiri.

Of special interest to foreigners is the tiny island of Deshima (Pl. B, 3), the restricted home of the Dutch representatives of the East India Company during more than two centuries (between 1641 and 1858), and the most historic spot in the early foreign history of Japan. Here Western civilization first impinged on the Island Empire, later to spread eastward and northward; and here stood the gateway through which came the foreign ideas and articles later so indispensable to the Japanese. Tobacco was first brought here by the Portuguese in the 17th cent., and later came cake, bread (comp. p. xliii), soap, machinery, firearms, ardent spirits, and a host of articles now in daily use. From here there went (in 1662) the first specimens of Hizen porcelain that Europe ever saw, along with many other curious Japanese trinkets and things of worth. - James Specx, a Dutch envoy who came to Japan in 1609, obtained the first commercial charter from Tokugawa Ieyasu, opened a factory at Hirado, and became its first director. In 1641, a governmental decree caused the factory to be transferred to Deshima ('fore island'), which had been formerly assigned to the Portuguese (and from which they were expelled in 1637). It was then only about 600 ft. long by 240 broad, a piece of land but 6 ft. above high tide, reclaimed from the bay, separated by a narrow channel from the town and connected therewith by a little stone bridge, at the end of which was a gate, to enable the communication to be strictly watched. On this restricted bit of territory, guarded and confined like prisoners or thieves, constantly subjected to the most humiliating official arrogance and restrictions, from 16 to 20 Dutchmen were allowed to live and carry on their trade with Japan. On the islet were the dwellings of the officials, - the chief of whom bore the title of Resident, - the storerooms, a small botanical garden, and a tiny open square upon which the Dutch flag was hoisted. At first only one ship came yearly from Batavia, but later 8 were allowed entrance. European goods of various kinds were exchanged for gold, silver, copper, silk, camphor, porcelain, and other native productions, with fat profits to the wily Hollanders. The average yearly turnover is estimated at £660,000. The natives were not as shrewd at barter then as they are now, but what the Dutchmen wrung from them in profits the Nipponese took out of their pride. Referring to the degrading position of imprisonment imposed upon them at Deshima, Kaempfer writes: 'In this service we have to

put up with many insulting regulations at the hands of these proud heathens. We may not keep Sundays or feast-days, or allow our spiritual hymns or prayers to be heard; never mention the name of Christ; nor carry with us any representation of the cross or any external signs of Christianity. Besides these things we have to submit to many other insulting imputations, which are always painful to a noble heart. The only reason which impels the Dutch to bear all these sufferings so patiently is simply the love of gain and of the precious marrow of the Japanese mountains.'

In addition to the Japanese guard at the entrance-gate to Deshima, there was exhibited upon a great notice-board the regulations (kinsatsu) with regard to the Deshima-machi ('Deshima Street'). No women, with the exception of prostitutes, might set foot upon the soil; few priests and bonzes, and no beggars. No one was permitted, upon any pretext whatever, to come in a boat within the palisades or under the bridge; finally, no Dutchman was to leave Deshima without proper reasons or except within the prescribed time. The Resident had to journey once a year to Yedo, to offer the shogun his respects and presents. The day fixed for his departure was the 4th or 5th of March; on these occasions he traveled as a daimyo, and, like the governor who accompanied him, in a palanquin (norimono), the other higher officials in basket-litters (kago) or on horseback. He was usually accompanied by his Dutch secretary and the physician of the little colony. The procession consisted of from 100 to 200 persons, principally bearers, and included various Japanese officials, among them interpreters and spies. The rooms of the hostelries at which they halted on the way were locked and guarded.

During their stay in Yedo they were allowed no freedom of movement. On the day of audience, the presents for the Court had to be set out in the room of the palace appointed for the purpose, and invitations were issued to view them. Among them were Spanish wines, Edam cheese, linens, silks, and other European productions. At the audience, which took place in the Hall of a Hundred Mats, the Dutch Resident was summoned to offer his reverence to the shogun, who usually sat behind a curtain; the Resident crept forward on his hands and feet, and falling on his knees bowed his head to the ground, and retired again in absolute silence, crawling exactly like a crab. When this exhibition was over, the envoys were led farther into the palace, to give the women and the rest of the Court the pleasure of beholding them, in which amusement the shogun also shared. The Resident then remained passive, and the role of Kaempfer and the secretary began. It was a monkey-like comedy which the shogun called for. 'Now' (writes Kaempfer) 'we had to rise and walk to and fro, now to exchange compliments with each other, then to dance, jump, represent a drunken man, speak broken Japanese, paint, read Dutch and German, sing, put on our cloaks and throw them off again, etc.; I for my share singing a German love ditty.' 'Kaempfer' (says Dr. Rein) 'appears to have had the reputation of a good singer, for upon other occasions also he was invited to sing a song, to take part with the Secretary in representing various modes of behavior in Holland, and to do such other things as might serve for entertainment and for the gratification of curiosity. When the representative of the Dutch Company (contemptuously called a red-haired barbarian) took his leave of the Court, he had to bind himself not to enter into any connection with the Kirishitan-shu (Christian sect, i.e., Catholics), not to bring any missionaries into the country, and every year to give the Court such information as to the Christian sect as should be of interest to the shogun. For nearly 150 years the entire intellectual stimulus which Japan received through the Dutch was limited to what was offered here and there by Dutch industrial productions, such as barometers and thermometers, clocks and other objects. Then began the study of the Dutch language and the distribution of Dutch books, but it was only in the 19th cent., when the old edicts against foreigners were less stringently enforced, that more life was infused into the study. Dutch books and illustrations, chiefly of a medical and technical character, were here and there sparingly introduced, and conveyed new ideas to the thinking and energetic Japanese, especially to several physicians. They diligently studied anatomy, learnt venesection from the Dutch, the Linnaean and other botanical systems from Von Siebold, and much else. In the first half of the 19th cent. blast-furnaces and mills were erected after Dutch plans, and many other industrial inventions were introduced. Printing is indebted to Dutch intercourse

for many improvements, and even steam-engines, the telegraph, and other products of modern civilization, first became known to Japan in this way.' Among the real benefits to Japan and the world at large derived from the Dutch East India Company was the sending by this company to Japan of such men as Kaempfer, Thunberg, and Von Siebold, all of whom, it seems, came out as surgeons to the Deshima colony.

Engelbrecht Kaempfer (a German physician, b. 1651; d. 1716) came to Japan in Sept., 1690, and remained a little over 2 years. 'Though he did not neglect the natural sciences, and particularly botany, yet his greater merit lies in his contributions to history and the history of civilization. There can be no higher testimony to his chief works (the Amoenitates Exoticae and Historia imperii japonici germanice scripta), than that now, after more than 200 years, and when so much has been written about Japan since it has been opened to foreigners, every one who knows Japan is still glad to read them, and is convinced of the trustworthiness of their author.'

Karl Peter Thunberg (a Swedish botanist, b. 1743; d. 1828), Director of the Dutch factory at Deshima in 1775, was the first naturalist of importance who opened to the world the magnificent Japanese flora. His name is intimately associated with many of the loveliest ornamental plants now found in Europe and America. He was a minute and erudite observer, and a pupil of Linnaeus. Chief among his numerous works are his Flora Japonica, Flora Capensis, and Icones plantarum Japonicarum.

Philipp Franz von Siebold (a German, b. 1796; d. 1866), came to Nagasaki in Aug., 1823, and in 1826 went to Yedo to obtain permission to stay in order to give lessons in medicine and surgery. He was later permitted to travel in the interior on condition that he would make neither sketches nor maps. He was, however, able to get a map of Japan drawn by a native artist, but was imprisoned for it. He was released in 1830, and was forbidden ever again to set foot on Japanese soil: 30 years later he returned, sent by his gov't on a semi-official mission which failed. Rarely has an individual been so successful in gathering so much and such varied information worth knowing about a foreign country, and in bringing it to the knowledge of Europe, as he has in his Nippon, Archiv zur Beschreibung von Japan, his Flora and Fauna-Japonica; Bibliotheca Japonica, and Catalogus librorum Japonicorum. - Commemorative monuments to all of the above scholars stand in the grounds of Osuwa Park.

The Buddhist Temples (tera) and Shinto Shrines (miya) of Nagasaki, though characteristic of the two cults in architecture and fitments, are less ornate than similar structures in Kyoto and other cities of E. Japan. A number of the former occupy commanding sites on the hill-slopes overlooking the E. quarter of the port; those mentioned below are perhaps the most interesting.

The Dai-on-ji (Pl. C, 2) is the most elaborately decorated; the polychromatic wood panels of the architrave carry designs of Buddhist angels, dragons, waves, and the Gods of the Four Directions, done in a modest way by local workmen. The carved, gilded, and seated wood figure of the richly gilt central shrine is Shaka. The usual Buddhist insignia - candelabra, incense-burners, and lotus flowers, all of metal - stand before the central altar; the Tokugawa crest is in evidence on the drapery and screens. The gilded mortuary tablets are of dead notables. The most striking objects of the interior are the massive uprights and cross-beams of splendid keyaki-wood, stained a deep Indian red and sculptured in intricate designs; above the latter are some crisply carved panels, in the natural wood, with dragon designs. At the right of the temple stands

The Daiko-ji, a new, spotless fane popular with the Chinese: some fine old camphor trees grow in the yard, hard by a belfry with a bronze bell. The crest chiseled on the door is the kiri-no-mon, of the Paulownia imperialis. The view over the city and bay, from the terrace, is attractive. Inside the temple are some skillfully carved wood-panels with foliated lotuses; some gilded screens showing bamboos and pine trees; and a plain coffered ceiling from which pend a number of metal lanterns. - Farther along the terrace is a group of decaying Chinese temples known collectively as

The Sofuku-ji, approached through a lofty gateway showing traces of former beauty. The immense rusted iron cauldron in the yard was used to boil rice in during a great famine in the 17th cent. The interiors of the buildings are so faded as to be uninteresting. The Kiyomizu-dera, the Nakamiya, Inari, and other temples on the same hillside are not worth visiting. Behind and roundabout them spread extensive graveyards with upright, moss-grown granite tombs that resemble a stone fence when viewed from far below. During certain festival times, lighted lanterns are suspended near them, and their number produces a weird effect.

The Osuwa-jinja, in the O-Suwa Koen, in the N.E. quarter (Pl. C, 1), is better known to foreigners as the Bronze Horse Temple, for a bizarre bronze horse (evidently designed by a blind artist) in the temple yard, presented by the townsfolk in 1871; the elaborate bronze scroll near by bears the names of those who aided and abetted in bringing the travesty into existence. Near the foot of the (196) stone steps which lead from the street up beneath stone torii to the final terrace, on which the shrine stands, is a magnificent bronze torii (33 ft. high, 38 across the top, 13 in circumference, and 16 between the two bases) which ranks as one of the largest in Japan (made at the Mitsu Bishi Dockyard and presented to the shrine in the 27th year of Meiji). Its splendid proportions are so hemmed in by the flanking houses that they cannot be seen to the best advantage. Two handsome gray granite lanterns stand below, and 3 smaller stone torii beyond. The seated carved wood figures at the right and left, are Udaijin and Sadaijin. The two bronze Dogs of Fo which guard the entrance are worth looking at. The august deities worshiped here are supposed to inhabit the holier shrines which stand behind the outer structures. The two polychromatic paintings on wood which hang at the right and left of the altar refer to a curious festival, the Suwa-no-Matsuri (or Ku-nichi) which customarily falls on Oct. 7, 8, and 9, of each year. Great preparations are made beforehand, and not a little excitement prevails.

At the appointed time the spirits of the tutelar deities are invited to enter large, heavy, ornately lacquered palanquins, or portable shrines (kept in locked godowns until wanted), which, on the 7th, are carried at headlong

speed, by a hundred or more lusty men, down the 196 steps, thence through the narrow streets (route variable) to the Ohato wharf, where a temporary shrine has been erected for their reception. There they remain for two days and nights, to be worshiped by the populace. On the 9th they are returned in a like manner, on a dead run up the steps to the shrine, amidst a wild uproar not always free from personal encounters. If the bearers neither stumble nor fall in their mad rush down, and their risky dash up the steps, good luck will mark the ensuing year; earthquakes and similar disasters will remain away; and bountiful crops will be the order of the day. The gorgeous ceremonial robes of the priests (who ride on white horses), the costumes of the dancing-girls, and other features combine to make the festival highly picturesque and worth seeing. Stands are erected at various points along the route, and juggling, theatricals, and different sports are indulged in. Travelers fortunate enough to secure an invitation (through one's consul) from the governor of the ken, can not only witness the performances from a specially prepared coign of vantage, and thus be spared the crush of the crowd, but also participate in the elaborate luncheon prepared for the occasion.

Osuwa Park is a restful spot embowered in fine cherry, pine, maple, camphor, vegetable-wax, and flowering trees. Of special interest to Americans are the two trees hard by a stone slab bearing the following inscription (dated June 22, 1879): -

At the request of Governor Utsumi Tadakatsu, Mrs. Grant and I each planted a tree in the Nagasaki Park. I hope that both trees may prosper, grow larger, live long, and in their growth, prosperity and long life be emblematic of the future of Japan. U. S. Grant.

At the left is a bronze statue and a bust of local celebrities; farther along is a large school where one may often see young men and women practicing fencing and more intricate passes of judo. On a terrace below are stone slabs to the memory of Kaempfer, Thunberg, and Baron von Siebold. The Commercial Museum, at the left, is of scant interest. By turning to the left and following the narrow thoroughfare leading N.E. from the main steps to the Osuwa-jinja one reaches, after a 20 min. walk (1 M.),

The Waterworks, at the N.E. limit of the town, high in the green hills. The street soon merges into the country road which winds past the reservoirs - a series of repressed lakes hemmed in by massive stone walls that stretch across a narrow ravine. The townspeople consider the water (which comes from springs higher in the hills) of unimpeachable quality, but the observant traveler will not fail to note that the dwellings, paddy-fields, and adjacent gardens rest on a slope which drains into the ravine where the reservoirs lie.

The Bay (wan) or harbor, one of the best and deepest (15 fathoms) in Japan, is a large and commodious inlet completely sheltered and surrounded by green hills (from 1000 to 1500 ft. high), fortified with batteries of guns. Some of these heights have an unfortunate reputation among Christians, for on them, in times gone by, many adherents of the faith were crucified, burned at the stake, or otherwise martyred. On Feb. 5, 1597, three Portuguese Jesuits, 17 Japanese converts, and 6 Spanish Franciscans, among them San Felipe de Jesus, Mexico's protomartyr, were crucified and burned (on Hijiri-

yama, the 'Saint Hill' of foreigners), and on Sept. 10, 1622, 30 more were beheaded, and 25 burned amid such physical anguish that the occurrence is known as the Great Martyrdom. At the W. side of the harbor, at the left of the entrance is the historical Taka-hoko Island, an imperishable memorial of Christian steadfastness in a time of great tribulation. From this point, during the period when the fickle Hideyoshi was employing all his great power to extirpate Christianity in Japan, many hundreds of tortured and faithful Christians were once cast into the sea. The Dutch accordingly called it Papenberg. Many of the hills are now laid out in carefully cultivated terraces, whose edges are planted with vegetable-wax trees. From the narrow, winding, picturesque entrance to the bay, which here is about 1/4 M. wide, the harbor trends N.E. for 2 M. At certain times the bay resembles one vast coaling-station, as steamships usually fill their bunkers here with the excellent Kyushu coal mined in the neighborhood. The port has the reputation of being one of the quickest coaling-places in Japan. The work is done in a primitive but extraordinarily speedy manner by hundreds of men and women who stand on lines of temporary platforms or steps swung ladderwise over the ship's side. Helpers in the lighters below fill small round baskets with the fine coal and screenings and pass them up the line like buckets of water at a fire. The capacious bunkers of a big ship can be filled in this way in a few hours. The record is said to be held by one of the Empress ships of the Canadian Pacific Railway Co.'s Royal Mail Line, which took in the extraordinary amount of 2100 tons in 6 3/4 hrs. - which is at the rate of 309 tons per hour, or over 5 tons a minute!

Across the harbor from Nagasaki are the Akuno-ura Engine Works, and the Mitsubishi Dockyards, the latter one of the largest of its kind in Nippon. It was established in 1856 by the Tokugawa shogunate, under the tutelage of Dutch engineers, but was transferred to the Mitsubishi Co. in 1877; since then its growth has been rapid. Battleships and ocean-going steamers of large tonnage are built here, and upward of 8000 men are employed. The workmanship is equal to that of the best shipyards in other parts of the world. It is superior to certain of them. There are dry-docks, salvage steamers, and modern and efficient equipment of all kinds, etc.

1 San Felipe de las Casas was but 22 years old when he died for his belief. It is said that he endured his sufferings with such saintly fortitude that on Sept. 14, 1627, he was canonized by a Papal Bull of Pope Urban VIII. Papal delegates from all parts of the civilized world assembled at Rome on the occasion, and splendid processions were held in the martyr's honor. In 1629, he was declared the Patron Saint of Mexico and New Spain. A splendid church stands to his memory on the Avenida de San Francisco, at the Mexican capital (where he is known as El Gloriosisimo Martir del Japon), and one of the finest altars of the Mexico City Cathedral is dedicated to him. The remainder of the martyrs were canonized in 1862 by Pope Pius IX.

A popular walk leads to the Catholic Church (Notre Dame du Japon), where turn to the right and proceed along the well-kept terrace-walk (Minamiyamate) overlooking the bay. Many foreign residences flank the hillsides at the left. A multiplicity of footpaths lead up and over the various hills, and weeks would be required to explore them all. A stroll up through the native town, at the left of the hotels, brings one to a quarter which recalls Naples and other Mediterranean ports. The continuous rise has necessitated steps, and long and constantly recurring flights of these piece out the street and impart an Oriental picturesqueness to them. Scores of quaint lanes and by-paths branch off from the main thoroughfares to tiny terraces held up by stone retaining-walls enveloped in ferns and vines, and upon which stand small native dwellings with superb views to recommend them. Each house seems ready to topple over on its neighbor below, or be crushed by those higher up.

The road to the suburban town of (2 M.) Urakami leads past the rly. station. The Catholic community is of historic interest in that the seeds of Christianity planted here centuries ago flourished in secret during all the troublous years when those who openly professed the faith were martyred. The knowledge of its existence did not come to light until about the middle of the 19th cent.; then the Christians were ferreted out and subjected to considerable suffering. The erudite Baron von Siebold lived near Urakami for a time.

Mogi, a small port overlooking the Gulf of Omura, 5 M. S.E. of Nagasaki, is a popular resort and is oftentimes made the point of departure for Unzen. Steamer across Chijiwa Bay to Obama in about 3 hrs. The road to Mogi leads out through the E. quarter of the port (Pl. C, 3), thence over the hills and across a wide valley dotted with rice-fields, bamboo groves, and farmsteads with busy water-wheels.

Kwannon Waterfall, 10 M. N.E. of Nagasaki, near Yagami village. The road leads past the Waterworks and over the crest (good views) of Hime Pass, thence downward through a long valley to the village, where it turns left. The waterfall and the temple near it are not worth a special trip (which occupies a long day).

Unzen (On-sen, 'Hot Spring'), a popular hill-station on the slope of Unzen-dake, on the Shimabara Peninsula, E. of Nagasaki, is known far and wide for the curative properties of its hot springs, which attract thousands of people during the season (June-Oct.).

It is reached by motor-car from Nagasaki (in about 4 hrs.); by trains to Isahaya Station (Tokaido Rly.) thence to Ainomura and Obama, and motor-bus from there (6 M.); or by steamer to Obama and motor-car. A clear, beautifully colored map of the entire region, with detailed description of routes, fares, time, etc., is issued in the form of a Folder (Nagasaki, Unzen & Beppu) by the Imperial Gov't Rlys., and can be had (free) on application to any office of the Japan Tourist Bureau. Or any hotel of the Japan Hotel Association.

Hotels & Inns. The *Kyushu Hotel (T. Shichijo, manager) is recommended. Good food and service. Clean, cool rooms. Member of the Japan Hotel Association. Rates from 6 to 12 yen a day, American Plan. Other hotels (or Inns) are the European, Yumei, Shin-yu, Yorozu-ya, Kase-ya, etc. (Rates at the purely native Inns usually range from 5 yen up for dinner, bed and breakfast.)

Foreigners will prefer the hotels.

Unzen is the name of the district wherein lie the small hamlets of Furuyu, Shinyu, and Kojigoku ('Little Hell'). Shinyu is generally the objective point of foreign visitors. Many of these come from China and other southern countries to which the fame of the waters has spread. The cool, bracing air of the region, the host of hot springs, and the many delightful walks roundabout, make Unzen as much of a summer colony as a mineral spa. Unzen-dake, on the slope of which the hamlets (2550 ft.) cluster, is 4380 ft. high and was an active volcano in 1792. Many solfataras bubble and hiss from its flanks, and the rotten ground about them (guide necessary) and the numerous fumaroles must be trodden with caution. Superheated steam and sulphurous gases rise from them constantly. Chief among the small geysers is the 'Loud Wailing.' The Chuto Jigoku, or 'Second-class Hell,' maintains its title by ejecting water at a temperature of 204° F.

Because of the altitude and its proximity to the sea, the Unzen district is cooler, even in midsummer, than some of the resorts further north. Life can be varied by a motor run (about 40 min.) to the shore, where, at Obama, Chijiwa, and Shimabara, there are excellent beaches.

Shimabara, chief town (E. side) of the Shimabara Peninsula, with 20,000 inhabs., lies a short distance, E. of Unzen. Small steamers ply from Nagasaki at frequent intervals, and proceed 12 M. across the Shimabara Gulf to Hyakkanishi, in Higo Province, where one is in touch with the rly. (Rte. 41). Shimabara is a fateful word in the annals of Christianity in Japan, for the most sanguinary persecution of Christians to be met with in its history took place in 1637, at Arima, in the S. of the peninsula.

The Rising (or Massacre) of Shimabara was a desperate revolt against the inhuman tortures to which Christians had for 20 years, or more been subjected by cruel daimyos. 'The persecutors were not content with the ordinary modes, of hanging, crucifying, drowning, beheading, but flung the victims down from high precipices, buried them alive, had them torn asunder by oxen, tied them up in rice-sacks of plaited straw, which were then heaped up and set on fire, or put them in cages with provisions before their eyes, where they were allowed to perish of hunger.' About the year 1636 the old abandoned castle of Arima and the neighboring islands became the place of refuge and rendezvous of some 30,000 or 40,000 Christians (the major portion Japanese) who came from all parts of the Island of Kyushu, and here put themselves into a position of defense against their persecutors. Their principal leader appears to have been a man of the name of Nirado Shiro, from the Island of Amakusa. In 1637, Itakura Shigemasa was commissioned by the shogun to march against the rebels, which he did with 30,000 men. He was killed whilst leading the attack upon the fortress, but was succeeded by Matsudaira Nobutsuna, who at the head of 100,000 men besieged the castle for two months before he could take it. On April 14, 1638, he stormed and captured the Citadel, and the massacre which ensued baffles description. Three thousand men were slain and buried at Tomioka in the Island of Amakusa. Of all the 37,000 whom sword and famine had spared, not one was allowed to survive. Many were led to the entrance of Nagasaki Harbor and from the steep cliffs of Papenberg Island, were hurled into the sea.