（横浜・名古屋から）京都から大阪・神戸へ

36. From (Yokohama, Nagoya) Kyoto to Osaka and Kobe.

Yokohama-Kobe Rte. (24-26), continued from p. 400. Southwestward from Kyoto the rly. crosses the fertile Yamashiro Plain, with fine mts. at the right, and bluer, more distant ones, at the left. The Toji Pagoda is soon passed at the left. At the right of the far end of the (1196 ft.) Katsura River bridge stands the Katsura Summer Palace, hidden by trees. The thick groves of the lissome Bambusa which grows here in such wanton profusion would furnish a fishing-pole for nearly every piscatorially inclined youngster in the Mikado's Empire. Plodding oxen aid the simple husbandmen in their lowly tasks in the paddy-fields, and sometimes have gaudy scarves wound round the base of their horns, or are sheltered from the searching rays of the sun by swaying canopies that cover them from head to tail. Conspicuous objects in the fields are the crude irrigating devices - species of breast-wheels (perchance of Persian origin) with radial steps in lieu of buckets, up which men and women climb and fill the sluices with water raised by their dead weight. The omnipresent Tokaido winds like a white ribbon across the green fields, which seem never without their laborers. Beyond 319 M. Yamazaki a score or more smok-

ing factory chimneys start up at the left to advertise the industries of hustling Osaka. The Akuta- and the Yodo-gawa are crossed between Takatsuki and Ibaraki. The rly. curves to the left, crosses the Kami-Kanzaki-gawa, then the Kami-Yodogawa, and enters the Umeda Station (restaurant upstairs) of 338 M. Osaka (see below). For a continuation of the journey see p. 618.

Arrival. Of the several Railway Stations the most important to the tourist is the Umeda Station, in the N. quarter (Pl. D, 2) where N. or S. bound trains of the Tokaido Rly. from or to Tokyo, Yokohama, Nagoya, Kyoto, Kobe, Shimonoseki, Nagasaki, etc., arrive and depart.

Of the Electric Rlys. the most important, and the most used, is the 'Daiki' Station of the Osaka Electric Rly. Co. (Osaka Denki Kidō Kwaisha) in the E. quarter, facing Uehon-machi, Roku-chome (Pl. E, 2. See also p. 609.) This rly. (the shortest and quickest to Nara and other points) is much used both by foreign travelers and Japanese.

Hotels. The * Osaka Hotel (Tel. add. Caterer, Osaka) on Nakanoshima Island, overlooking the river, with good views, fine air, etc. Under able management experienced in catering to foreigners. Good food and service. All the modern improvements and comforts. Member of the Japan Hotel Association. English spoken. Motor-cars meet trains and ships.

Rates: Single room with bath, from 12 to 20 yen a day, American Plan. Double rooms from 15 to 30 yen. Reduction for a long stay. Rooms only from 5 yen up. Good meals in the restaurant at current prices. Dobuil Hotel, Dojima, Hamai-ichome, Kitaku.

Taxicabs ply for hire at popular prices. The 'one yen' taxis will carry one on a short ride or from one end to the other of the vast city for a yen. Motor- Buses compete and run to many points in the city. Autos are fast displacing jinrikis.

Tramcars (densha) run to all parts of the city. Transfers are given.

The Takaradzuka Line runs cars at frequent intervals to that point, famous for its Mineral Springs and the great Bottling Works of the Clifford Wilkinson Tansan Mineral Water Co. referred to in detail at p. 629.

The frequent trains on the popular 'Daiki' Electric Tramway Lines leave from the 'Daiki' Station, mentioned in detail under Excursions (see below).

Banks, where Travelers’ Cheques, Letters-of-Credit, Drafts, etc., can be cashed, and Money Exchanged:

American (English, Canadian, etc.) Banks: National City Bank of New York (Successors to the International Banking Corporation), 19 Imabashi 2-chome, Higashi-ku (P.O. Box 159 Central). Widely and favorably known, with many branches.

Japanese Banks. Yokohama Specie Bank* Ltd., head of all

the great native banking institutions, widely and favorably known to foreigners, with many branches. Awaji-machi, 4chome, Higashi-ku.

Strangers will do well to confine their financial operations to these two big, strong, reputable institutions, where English is spoken and tourist trade appreciated.

Photographers. The well-known Kobe house of S. Ichida, has a branch here, at Dosho-machi 4-chome.

Steamships. The Head Office of the great Osaka Shosen Kaisha (Osaka Mercantile S.S. Co. Tel. add. 'Shosen, Osaka') is in the Osaka Building, 1 Sozechō. English spoken in all departments. The 170 or more fine ships of this great company ply to all parts of the world, and are popular with all classes. The excellent service, the good food, the low fares, and the high character of the modern, comfortable, speedy, safe ships are known to travelers everywhere. The frequent services include those to North America, Europe, South America, Africa, India, Australia and the South Seas, Formosa, North China, Korea, and Vladivostok (Siberia). Handsomely illustrated booklets describing the different services, with information relating to fares, time, the ports visited, etc., can be had on application to any of the company agents, or the Japan Tourist Bureau.

The Osaka-Beppu Line offers one of the most delightful excursions possible in Japan. Between Osaka and (224 M.) Beppu the (excellent, new) Motor Ships of the company touch at many of the most charming spots along the incomparable Inland Sea, affording leisurely travelers the opportunity of enjoying an experience it would be impossible for them to obtain at any price in any other land. Colored maps and illustrated booklets free. For fares, etc., enquire of any of the company agents. See Kobe.

Special Note: The traveler interested in the many phases of Osaka’s development, is recommended to secure (from the Osaka Municipal Office, free) a copy of the * Guide Book of Osaka, the Commercial Metropolis of Japan,’ issued in 1928.

Drinking water. The traveler is advised to drink the local water only after it has been boiled. He is also reminded that the Clifford Wilkinson Tansan Water bottled at the near-by Takaradzuka Spring is exceptionally pure, of low cost, is non-laxative, and is safe to use. It can be had 'still' or 'charged.' The various counterfeits of this widely used and liked table water should be rigorously avoided.

Shops. Of the many city shops those of most interest to foreigners are the following:

Curios and Art Objects. Yamanaka Shoten, Kitahama 2-chome, Higashi-ku.

Department Stores. Daimaru, Shinsaibashisuji 3-chome, Minami-ku. - The Mitsukoshi, Koraibashi 2-chome, Higashi-ku.

Bookstores. Maruzen Kabushiki Kaisha, Bakuromachi 4-chome, Higashi-ku.

Special Excursion. Of the many delightful excursions possible from Osaka the most popular and the one most frequently

enjoyed by foreigners (and Japanese alike) is the unforgettable trip through the heart of old Yamato Province (cradle of the great Japanese Empire of to-day) to extraordinarily artistic and historically attractive Nara, described in detail at pages 554, etc.

The traveler who finds himself in Kobe or Osaka in April, when the cherry blossoms of famous Mt. Yoshino (p. 597) are in their prime; or in Nov. when the gorgeous maples of Yamato Province begin to turn the world into a crimson paradise, should not omit this famous cross-country trip, as it is delightful. At almost every season of the year there is some particular attraction at one or more of the celebrated places in the region, and at no time does the traveler unrewarded for his pains. Perhaps no district in Japan is richer in historic interest, or more picturesque in various ways.

The Osaka Denki Kidō Kwaisha (Osaka Electric Railway Co.) or 'Daiki' Line runs clean, modern, roomy, American trolley-cars between its Osaka Main Station (at Uehon-machi, 6-chome; a short motor ride from the Umeda Station of the Imperial Gov't Rlys.; see p. 607) and Nara (time 50 min.; fare 1 way, 48 sen), and foreigners who approach Nara and its environs (Koya-san, Yoshino, etc.) from the Osaka-Kobe district will find this line the quickest and best way of reaching them. See the accompanying Plan. The 'Daiki' Station is in the famous 'Daiki' Building, one of the most picturesque in the metropolis. It is a bizarre blend of a big, modern office building, a rly. station, and a native bazaar where many attractive native articles can be bought at exceptionally low prices. As the building occupies the highest point in the city, the views from the roof (elevator) are the finest obtainable. There is an excellent waiting-room with easy chairs, and a dining-room (English spoken) where one can get the best meal in the city for one yen.

The trip includes more than a straight run to Nara, and the leisurely traveler can get much return from it. From the main line station of Saidai-ji, the Unebi Branch (p. 595) runs to the near-by Kashiwara-Jingu-mae (fare from Osaka 64 sen; time 55 min.; from Nara 45 min., fare 48 sen: see p. 596), forever famous for its Imperial Tombs. From here the Yoshino Electric Rly. Line carries one to the widely celebrated Mt. Yoshino (from Osaka 1 hr., 40 min.; fare yen 1.22; from Nara 1 hr. 30 min.; fare yen 1.10) sacred to the native mind for its historical associations.

The Tenri Branch line which crosses the Unebi Line at Hirahata, will carry one to the justly renowned Horyu-ji Temple (one of the oldest and most revered in Japan) described at p. 584. Another line takes one to the sacrosanct Tenri Shrine. From Ikoma, on the main line, a famous (because the first of its kind installed in Japan) Cable Railway (steep but strong and

trustworthy) lifts one to the summit of the mountain where stands the ancient and peculiarly interesting old Hozanji Temple (of the Kankiten Sect of Buddhists), popular with all Japanese lovers because of the beneficent influence which the gods are supposed to cast over them.

So strong is the native belief that a pilgrimage to this sacrosanct shrine will controvert the age-old dictum about 'the course of true love never running smoothly,' that lovers from all over the empire, particularly those to whom fate is not always kind, come hither to commune with the gods and plead for their intervention.

Almost every day the lines are extended to include some other famous and interesting place. In connection with the Shigi-Ikoma Electric Line, and the Sangu Rapid Electric Rly., the 'Daiki' Line is reaching out in all directions, and ere long will include among its valuable attractions the thrice famous Shrine city of Yamada-Ise, referred to in detail at p. 600.

Detailed information relating to these ably managed, popular lines can be had from Mr. T. Oita, Chief Managing Director (for years the Traffic Manager of the vast railway system of the Imperial Japanese Government, at Tokyo: speaks perfect English), ‘Daiki' Building, Uehon-machi, Roku-chome, Osaka; or of the Japan Tourist Bureau.

Osaka (from O-e, great river, or bay, and saka or zaka, hill; sometimes called 'Big Slope'), a huge manufacturing city (largest in the Empire, with 2,300,000 inhabs. and 300,000 houses) covering 70 sqr. m. of the wide Osaka Plain at the N.E. side of the bay of the same name; capital and chief city of Osaka Prefecture and fu, in Settsu Province, stands in lat. 34° 41' N. and long. 135° 45' E. of Greenwich, 27 M. west of Kyoto and 20 M. east of Kobe, to which it is linked by several rly. lines and a wide State boulevard much used by motorists.

It is perhaps the busiest and most productive of all the Japanese cities, with 4600 factories whose annual output is valued at 1 billion yen; 250 banks, many fine public buildings and associations, including a Mint, a good Art Museum, Schools, a Commercial Museum, Public Libraries, a municipally-owned and managed Street Car System, and a dozen important newspapers,conspicuous among them the wellknown and widely read Osaka Mainichi, andthe Asahi Shimbun. Because of its commercial activities Osaka is often referred to as the Manchester, and as the Chicago of Japan. The City Crest seen on many municipally-owned buildings, street cars and what-not, is in the form of a quasi-triangular symbol formerly used as wood markers to pilot ships through the harbor channels.

Forty miles of canals and other waterways criss-cross the city, and the 1600 bridges that span them cause the city often to be called the Japanese Venice. Some of these bridges (Ohashi) are architecturally beautiful. That over the Yodogawa

is the longest, and the Naniwa Bridge, with its crouching lions, is perhaps the finest.

Prominent among these bridges is the Korai Bashi (Bridge of the Koreans), commemorating the early immigrants from that peninsula, and bearing somewhat the same relation to Osaka that the Nihon-bashi does to Tokyo, and the Sanjo-baski to Kyoto. Anciently all distances were measured therefrom, and thither all roads were supposed to center. When new bridges replace old ones, concrete takes the place of wood, and artistic symbols adorn the approaches.

For administrative purposes the city is divided into ku (wards) which usually are indicated on addresses, and a knowledge of which is useful when one wishes to find a certain place. The principal ku are: Kitaku, Higashi-ku, Minami-ku, Nishi-ku, Higashinari-ku, Konohana-ku, Minato-ku, Naniwa-ku, Tennoji-ku, Nishinari-ku, and Sumiyoshi-ku. The transpontine ku, beyond the Shin-yodogawa, are Nishi-yodogawa-ku, and Higashi-yodogawa-ku. The suburban districts are designated as gun, thus: Nakakawachi-gun, etc.

The greatest extension of the city is N.E. to S.W., and through it run upward of 1600 miles of streets, broad like those of an American city, and narrow as those of Canton or a Cairene arcade. Superb gray granite buildings in semi-classical design flank some of them, and often stand next to diminutive relics of the early days. The newer banks and municipal buildings would do credit to any modern city. Many of the city streets are as busy as those of Broadway or the Strand, and at night are illuminated like those of New York or London. Dotomobori, or Theatre St., is a local pride, and after nightfall is gay and attractive. Some of the tea-houses which flank it have wire cages in which, in summer, are imprisoned fireflies for the pleasure of guests, who sometimes have them put in tiny bamboo cages to take home with them.

Some of the finest streets are those which traverse Kitaku, wherein are located the Central Post Office, Chamber of Commerce, the Central Public Hall and many of the banks and business houses, along with some of the municipal buildings. The fine new home of the Osaka Shosen Kaisha, one of Japan's greatest steamship lines, overlooks the Dojimagawa here. At the S.E. side of Kitaku, in a bend formed by the Yodogawa, is the Imperial Mint, where the gold, silver, and copper coins of the realm are minted. The Umeda Station of the Imperial Gov't Rlys. is near the center of the rhomboidal island formed by the Yodogawa and the Shin-Yodogawa; and beyond the former, in Higashi-ku, is the splendid old Osaka Castle, described in detail at p. 612.

Naka-no-shima (Middle Island) formed by the Dojimagawa on the N. and the Tosabori-gawa on the S., is a pretty spot, with a park, numerous buildings, and a statue to Toyo-

tomi Hideyoshi, who is regarded as the founder of the old city.

Some of the best known and best managed Electric Railways in Japan radiate from Osaka and have their administrative offices here. Conspicuous among them is the Osaka Denki Kidō Kwaisha, or the 'Daiki' Line, which connects the metropolis with many outside places, and provides the shortest route between the city and the old capital of Nara. The Station is in Minami-ku, and is referred to in detail on another page.

The broad Osaka Harbor and Bay, on which more than 100 million yen have been spent, has several great breakwaters (one of them 14,631 ft. long) and covers an area of 65,435 acres. There is a maximum depth of water of 9 meters at low tide, and ships displacing 10,000 tons can anchor therein. The main pier is 454 meters long. About 200,000 steam and sailing craft enter and leave the harbor each year. The rise of the tide is 3-6 ft. The white fixed light which shines from a white hexagonal tower 30 ft. high on the summit of Tempo-zan, on the S. side of the Aji-kawa-guchi, 52 ft. above high water, is visible 12 M. over an arc of 246°. A fixed red light, visible about 7 M. is shown from a red iron tower 25 ft. high on the head of the S. breakwater; and a fixed white light, visible 9 M. from a white iron tower 25 ft. high on the head of the N. breakwater; both lights are 45 ft. above high water. Frequent trains of the Nishinari Line run from Umeda Station to the main -Custom-House, near the E. end of the N. breakwater, at Sakurajima.

The influence of this great shipping and manufacturing center is felt strongly throughout Japan as well as in many remote parts of the world. A vast and steadily increasing trade is conducted with Europe, North and South America, China, the East Indies, the South Seas and Australasia, and the city bids fair in time to become the greatest producing center of the Eastern world. Modern manufacturing methods; office and factory systems modeled closely on those of the West; high business principles and a willingness quickly to adopt foreign ideas of worth, are the salient characteristics of its intelligent people.

As far back as feudal times Osaka was known as an important seat of learning and for its many scholars famous in the national literature. To-day it is a city of exceptional culture, and it is noted throughout Japan for the number and excellence of its schools, of which there are nearly 700 (more than 200 of them elementary schools). The Osaka Prefectural Library is one of the best in the Empire. In addition there are six municipal libraries.

History. Until the end of the 15th cent. the spot where the modern Osaka stands was called Naniwa, a name (thought to be a corruption of Nami-haya, or 'swift waves') said to have been applied to it by the mythical Jimmu Tenno when he landed here from Kyushu in b.c. 660. It was the residence of the (16th) Emperor Nintoku, in the 4th cent.; of Kotoku (the 36th), in the 7th cent., and of Shomu (45th) from 744 to 748. From the establishment of Kyoto, in 794, it became an important mart for trade, and a seaport for war junks and commercial craft. It came prominently into history in 1532 when Kennio Kosa, the head bonze of the Nishi Hongwanji at Kyoto, incurred the enmity of Oda Nobunaga, and built for himself a huge castle which he successfully defended for 5 yrs. Toyotomi Hideyoshi chose the city for his residence in 1583, enlarged the castle, and drew hither a number of titled families. Its greatest prosperity dates from that period. In the 17th cent., when Kyoto had upward of a million inhabs., most of its supplies came through

Osaka port, and this was the greatest emporium of trade in Japan. Its castle was the strongest fortress, and its merchants the wealthiest. The junk traffic was immense. Miles of these clumsy but picturesque craft floated on the bosom of the bay or lay moored to its shores - many of them in fact swinging at anchor above what at present is a part of the populous city, for natural and artificial alterations have greatly changed the topographical features of the district, and the sea was then much nearer the castle than it is to-day. The city really owes its prominence to the near-by and now decadent port of Sakai, in the 17th cent. the great distributing center for this section of Japan.

Travelers familiar with the finer and more elaborate temples of Kyoto may not find those of Osaka of any great interest, and may perhaps consider the Castle, the Mint, and the Big Bell the only sights worth devoting time to. These can easily be inspected in one forenoon, and a fair idea secured of the city on the journey to and from them. The temples other than those hereinafter described are not worth much. — The Hokoku Jinja, a Shinto shrine hard by the Osaka Hotel, was erected to the memory of ToyoToyoToyoToyoToyotomi Hideyoshi; it need detain no one, as the handsome granite torii can be seen from the street while passing it.

The Nishi Hongwanji (Pl. D, 2) differs but little from similar fanes of the same sect in other cities. A high, massive wall with mediaeval turrets at the corners incloses the vast compound, to which a penthouse gateway, with some noteworthy carvings in the natural keyaki, gives ingress. Conspicuous among these are enfoliated chrysanthemums, the customary Dogs of Fo (with gilded eyes), squirming dragons, and what-not. The supporting pillars are sheathed in copper-bronze, and broad sheets of this enrich the big doors, swung on stout pivots and let into the beams above and below. Of the several buildings in the inclosure the main temple is the only one worth looking at. Its clean and spacious interior contains some richly gilded, pierced and sculptured panels carrying kiku designs, and some heavily gilded keyaki pillars whose capitals, cross-beams, and compound brackets are decorated in unusually harmonious colors. The skillfully carved polychromatic figures of flying tennin in the upper panels are worth looking at, as well as the elaborately gilded altar with an enshrined figure of Amida. Architects will be interested in the decorative expedients grouped along the huge cross-beams above the vast nave, in the form of carved and painted figurines of ancient sages and the like. Many huge brass lanterns swing from the coffered ceiling in the natural wood. This differs from that of the adjoining temple at the right (connected to the main fane by a covered passageway) where each of the 192 panels carries a group of painted flowers, no two of which are alike. This conceit is further elaborated in the side aisles, with 144 panels. The six carved and painted panels above the chancel, showing storks in various attitudes, are excellent examples of this class of work. There is some very passable metal-work and some good wood sculptures in the spandrels (at both ends of the

building) formed by the struts and the joggle-post at the apex of the great slanting roof. Note that the senbei, or brittle cracknels, sold at the temple are stamped with a Billikin - evidently regarded by some devout Japanese as an Occidental goddikin! Five min. walk along the same street (S.), behind the same kind of a wall perforated by a gate less striking than that of the Nishi Hongwanji, is

The Higashi Hongwanji, similar in many ways to its sister edifice. The heavily gilded sculptured panels above the altar here display well-executed phoenixes and chrysanthemums in high relief, while above them are smaller and less effective groups of angels of the Buddhist Heaven. The magnificent supporting columns of the huge nave are heavily sheathed in gold foil and are unusually splendid specimens of the long-lived keyaki; some of them are 24 in. in diameter and the great room seems filled with broad waves of flashing yellow light when the early morning sun slants in. The standing figure in the central shrine is Amida, and the seated figure in the shrine at the right, Kenshin-Daishi. The groups of figures carved in the natural wood and seated high up on the cross-beams are Chinese sages.

The Osaka Castle (Oshiro), in the N.E. quarter of the city (Pl. E, 2), is of historic rather than present interest, since only the foundation and a portion of the old walls and moat remain as evidences of its once splendid estate. A special permit, obtainable at the Kencho (Kawaguchi tram-car from the Post-Office corner), where one must sign one's name in a register, is necessary, and should be applied for in person (English spoken). The Tenjin-bashi car, leaving from the Nippon Ginko corner, passes (5 min. walk) quite near the castle. The building at the left of the approach is the Military Club; the tall iron shaft in front of it, surmounted by a globe radiating light, stands to the memory of the soldiers who fell in the various civil wars consequent to the Restoration. We enter the castle by the Ote-guchi, or old front gate; the permit (read the instructions on the back) must be shown to the sentry on entering, and delivered to him on passing out. The inner moat is dry; the immense stones in the girdling wall and the huge iron-sheathed doors are worth noting. Some of the stones of the wall beyond the 3d gate are 18 ft. high and 35 ft. long. An arsenal stands to the E. of the wall, and within are a number of storehouses for ammunition, and other military structures, all guarded by soldiery (of the Fourth Army Division). The best views are obtainable from the walls of the inner keep, where there are some antique machine-guns and a covered well which formerly supplied the immense garrison with drinking-water. Even in ruins, the once colossal structure, with its mighty encircling walls of great square granite blocks, presents an imposing appearance. Photographing or sketching is forbidden.

Historical Sketch. The original structure, referred to by historians as Ishiyama-jo, or 'Stony Mountain Fortress,' stood on the site of a huge, fortified monastery erected about 1575 by the Shinshu monks as a defense against the repeated assaults of the arch-enemy of their order, Oda Nobunaga. The lofty plateau on which it stood, high above the Yodo River, was of splendid strategic value, since it commanded not only the river but also the entire city and country roundabout. Appreciating this Toyotomi Hideyoshi (Nobunaga's ward) set to work in 1583 to build the greatest and strongest fortress ever seen in Japan, one that would be the largest that lay to the dynasty of his posterity. Between 30,000 and 50,000 laborers toiled day and night for 3 yrs., constructing the huge building and the wide encircling moats. Luis Froez, the Portuguese Jesuit, writing in 1586, says:

'The walls are of great amplitude and height, - all of stone. In order that the multitude of workers should not cause confusion, it was ordained that each master should have his determined place, where he should work, a great number of people being employed during the night in emptying the water which continually kept rising in the fosses. What is the cause of such marvel in this matter is to see whence such a great number of stones of all kinds of sizes have been taken; there being a great lack of them there. For this reason he commanded the neighboring lords for 20 or 30 leagues around to send boats loaded with them. In this way the city of Sakai alone had been charged to dispatch 200 vessels every day. So that from our house we sometimes saw as many as 1000 entering under full sail and in good order together. On discharging, the stones are placed with such care and heed that none (without leaving his head there) might take a single one of them to place it elsewhere. And in order that the work might go forward with greater heat, it happening that a lord who supervised fell short either in men or industry, he was at once sent into exile, and stripped of his states and revenues. Besides the towers and the bulwarks around the fortresses, which are visible from afar by reason of their height, and the splendor of the tiles which are all gilded, he is rearing many other remarkable edifices there.'

'The plan of the fortress,' says Brinkley, 'showed three surrounding moats and escarpments, an arrangement which has always been adopted whenever possible by the architects of Japanese castles. These moats were about 150 ft. wide and 20 ft. deep, and they not only contained from 6 to 10 ft. of water, but had numbers of wooden stakes fixed in the bottom to prevent an enemy from wading across. The revetment of the escarp was built with polygonal granite blocks, put together in the fashion of Japanese masonry, the blocks being pyramidal and having the small end of the pyramid turned inward and the broad base outward. No mortar was used, and thus the revetment presented a slightly irregular rubble face. The corners and angles were strengthened with large quoins of carefully squared ashlar, usually bound together by strong cramps of iron or copper. Each escarpment was crowned by a series of loopholed curtain-walls, 1 1/2 ft. thick, 10 in the outermost inclosure, and 5 in each of the inner; and between these walls, or parapets, there were trenches, 12 ft. wide and 18 ft. deep, covered with bamboos and earth so as to constitute pitfalls. The parapets were 8 ft. high on the face, but had on the inner side a banquette approached by stone steps. In building these walls clay mixed with salt was used, an old recipe which gave a hard and durable composition. The general trace was irregular, having salient and reentering angles for purposes of flank defense, and the salient angles were crowned with pagoda-shaped turrets from 20 to 30 ft. high. The outermost moat inclosed 100 acres, and the innermost, the hommaru, or keep, 12 1/2 acres.

Hideyoshi's residence, surrounded by extensive barracks, and two score or more godowns for provisions, ammunition, fuel, and what-not, stood in the inner belt, near the great donjon, which in turn was tiled with copper, had a base of about 100 ft. sq., and rose 40 ft. from a battering stone basement 48 ft. high. Many of the huge granite blocks used in the construction of this formidable defense remain to astonish the beholder by their size. A peculiar feature of the main wooden bridge spanning the moat was that, by the removal of a single pin, the whole structure would fall to pieces - whence its name, the Abacus (Soroban) Bridge. 'Each gate opened upon an inner court surrounded by a lofty parapet, from which a cross-fire could be poured upon the enemy after he had forced the gate, as well as upon the

bridge leading to the gate. An assailant, who, having broken through the massive, iron-bound timbers of an outer gate, with the expectation of finding himself within the enceinte, found himself instead, perhaps to his amazement, in a kind of cul-de-sac, and the target for bullets, arrows, and other missiles rained upon him from all sides by hidden foes; in the face of such a fire he had to turn and face another gate at right angles to the original entrance.'

The dismantled old building revives many stirring memories. Here, in 1586, Hideyoshi received in audience Froez, Coelho, 7 other Jesuits, and 15 Catechists, with their petition to be allowed further to spread the Christian faith, and here in 1614 Ieyasu, with 180,000 men, besieged the castle and its 90,000 fighting ronin under Tokugawa Hideyori. In Jan., 1615, after the signing of the peace conditions, the inner and outer moats were filled in and the outer ramparts demolished. Upward of 270,000 Tokugawa troops were employed in the second siege of the castle during the summer of 1615, which resulted (June 4) in the burning of the citadel and the killing of thousands of its defenders. Hideyori committed suicide in his shot-proof refuge in the donjon; his consort was killed by one of his retainers; and while 30 men and women who had accompanied him set fire to the building and disemboweled themselves, the Osaka Castle fell, and with it perished the House of Toyotomi.

The *Mint, or Zoheikyoku ('Money-making office') is a short walk N. of the castle, on the other side of the Okawa (river). Cross the bridge and turn to the right. Permits obtainable (no fees) from the hotel management. The main building, in the Roman style of architecture, which was constructed in 1871, has a clock-tower over the porch and carries Imperial chrysanthemum enrichments. Here one is conducted (English spoken) through the barred, prison-like rooms guarded by sentries; and is shown all the processes, from refining gold, silver, and copper to the stamping and finishing of them into glistening coins of the realm. Great precautions are taken against theft, and visitors are supposed to abide by the rules of the establishment. On leaving, one is requested to scrape one's feet thoroughly on the door-mat, to remove any particles of metal that may have adhered to them. The region roundabout is noted for its cherry blossoms (in April).

The Tenno-ji (more properly Shi-Tenno-ji), an ancient Buddhist temple (Pl. E, 4) in the S.E. quarter of the city (tram-car from the Nippon Ginko to the Post-Office, where change to a Namba Station car, then into a Tenno-ji car), is of considerable historic interest to ecclesiologists in that it is intimately associated with the introduction of Buddhism in Japan; materially it is not worth visiting, save for the big bell, which is reputed the largest in the Empire. The original fane is said to have been founded in a.d. 600 by Shotoku-taishi. History does not record how long the primitive structure stood, but the present one, now tottering with age, replaced one burned in 1802. It is dedicated, as its name implies, to the martial Shi-tenno, or guardian gods of the four sides of the universe. A big stone torii marks the entrance to the extensive grounds, in which are a number of dilapidated shrines and a decrepit old pagoda, 5 stories high, showing traces of former beauty. The only thing of interest in the sadly defaced and misnamed

Kondo or Golden Hall, is a gilded copper Buddha said to have been presented to the temple by the King of Kudara (Korea) more than a thousand yrs. ago, and to have been the first of its kind to reach Japan.

There are a number of rubbishy relics in the darksome interior of no interest to foreigners. In one of the adjoining courts a man keeps a stock of turtles for sale, each unfortunate reptile centered on a low bamboo stick stuck in the ground, waving its feet as in the act of swimming, and waiting for some charitable person to come along and liberate it. In passing through this court note the remarkable bronze horse tethered to a bamboo, with a blanket embossed with a gilded 16-petal kiku crest on his rump. In other courts are other turtle-sellers with water-buckets filled with the wriggling chelonians. One crafty wight has his stand near a pond, and when his stock in trade is bought and liberated therein, he replenishes it by a single swoop of a capacious net. Scores of happy turtles swim about and scramble for the little pink balls of sweets fed to them; sun themselves on a wooden platform near the center, and perchance wonder when their next expatriation will occur. The small bell which overlooks this pond is not to be confounded with the one mentioned below. - At the left of the grounds stands a roofed structure inclosing a sunken well about 10 by 12 ft., walled in with granite blocks. The oblong stone basin at the bottom is filled with water on which float hundreds of thin wood strips bearing the names of persons recently deceased. The credulous believe that if these strips are placed in a tiny cup, held under the trickle falling from the mouth of the huge stone tortoise, then immersed in the water of the well, the flowing stream will carry their petitions to the spirit of the deified Shotoku-taishi. - The great pine tree in the temple yard (63 ft. high with a trunk 14 ft. in circumference) is the oldest in the city and is said to have been planted 850 yrs. ago.

The *Bronze Bell for which the temple is noted, and which the Osaka people believe is the biggest in the world, hangs 10 ft. from the floor, in an immense belfry that rises from a wide granite plinth at one end of the compound. Admission, 5 sen. The dragon on the ceiling is by a local painter. The leviathan is 26 ft. high, 34 ft. in circumference, 16 across the mouth, 1 1/2 ft. thick at the rim, weighs upward of 155 tons, and is struck by a heavy beam swung on the outside. The upper part is covered with umbones, and nearly all the remaining greenish surface is inscribed with extracts from the Buddhist classics and with the names of persons who subscribed to the casting of it in 1902. It is undoubtedly the greatest hanging bell in the world. The 'Czar Kolokol,' the great Moscow bell (which is in the yard of the Kremlin, is 19 ft. in diameter, the same in height, was cast in 1733, and is computed to weigh 440,000 lbs.) is supposed never to have been hung. It is now used as a chapel, the great piece broken out of its side by a fire serving as a sort of doorway. There is another bell in Moscow which weighs 128 tons. Perhaps the next

in size is that near a ruined temple at Mingun, about 9 M. above Mandalay, in Burma; the diameter at the lip is 18 ft., the height to the top of the shackle, 31 ft., and the weight about 80 tons. The belfry in which it once stood was long since shaken down by an earthquake and the bell is now shored up, but does not swing free of the ground. The great bell of the Chion-in Temple at Kyoto weighs 74 tons; that of the Todaiji, at Nara, 48 tons. The bell in the Ta-chung-sz', or Bell-Tower, near Peking, is 14 ft. high, 34 ft. in circumference at the rim, 9 in. thick, was cast about 1406, and weighs 120,000 lbs. The so-called big bells of Europe seem pygmies compared to these giants, for the bourdon of Notre Dame weighs but 17 tons; that of the Sens Cathedral, 16; and that of the Amiens Cathedral, 11 tons. The new 'Kaiserglocke' of the Cologne Cathedral weighs 25 tons, but the 'Big Ben' of Westminster weighs only 13 tons. The 'Great Peter,' at York is of 10 tons weight, and the 'Great Tom' at Oxford, 7 tons. The largest bell on the American continent is perhaps the Santa Maria de Guadalupe, in the W. tower of the Mexico City Cathedral. It was cast in Tacubaya (a suburb of Mexico City) in 1792, is 10 ft. across at the rim, 16 1/2 ft. high, weighs 27,000 lbs., and cost 10,400 pesos. Its voice is grave, melodious, and penetrating, while that of the Osaka monster shatters the atmosphere for miles around and sounds something like the crack of doom accompanied by a million angry bees heard through a megaphone!

At the rear of the belfry, housed in a dilapidated structure, is a sort of ecclesiological museum called Tennoji Hobutsukwan (no fees), where among other tawdry relics one may see two huge polychromatic festival drums, an old illuminated kakemono of the Buddhist Heaven, some curious masks, figures, and what-not. - The near-by Imamiya Park is the most popular of the city's pleasure-grounds, and is usually filled with peepshows, hucksters, wrestlers, 'movies,' and the like. - The returning tram-car (9 sen) goes direct to the Post-Office corner, where one changes into one for the Japan Bank, if the hotel be one's destination.

Excursions to Sumiyoshi, Sakai, and Wakayama (Nan-Kai Rly.). Trains leave at frequent intervals from the Namba Station (Pl. D, 3) and follow the contour of Osaka Bay. The best of the attractive views are seen from the right side of the car. The big island visible across the bay is Awaji (p. 632). By starting early in the a.m. one may inspect the three places in a leisurely fashion and return to Osaka in the afternoon.

Sumiyoshi, a suburb of Osaka (3 M., 18 sen), contains a locally celebrated temple revered by fishermen because they are under the special protection of its deity. The three gods whom legend avers assisted the Empress Jingo on her invasion of Korea are worshiped here. The grounds contain almost as many tanks as an aquarium. Conspicuous among the marine specimens are goldfish and tortoises, the latter with backs usually covered with seaweed and called minogame (mino, a straw or hempen rain-coat; kame, a tortoise), from their resemblance to the straw coats worn by peasants. The region roundabout is known for its splendid old trees, prominent among which are camphor laurels, Chinese Pagoda trees (Sophora japonica), Pride-of-India (Melia Azedarach, or false sycamore), Salisburias, tree-lotuses (Celtis sinensis; Jap. enoki), and magnificent old pines.

Sakai (7 M., 30 sen), chief city of Izumi Province, with 61,000 inhabs., on the E. shore of the Izumi Nada, was, during the Middle Ages, the greatest seaport of Japan. Originally called Sakai-no-Tsu, the 'boundary seaport,' it derives its name from its position on the boundary of Settsu, Kawachi, and Izumi. Its early life was similar to that of a self-reliant mediaeval Italian republic, a sort of Japanese Venice, with an administration unique in the Empire, and with vast fleets of ships and many rich merchants. Its prosperity declined when Hideyoshi undertook the development of Osaka, and it is now merely a manufacturing center for cutlery and for the cotton rugs or carpets known as Sakai dantsu. The locally renowned temples are of no interest to foreigners. Sakai's early history is intimately associated with the introduction of Jesuitism in Japan, and the hatred which certain of the samurai entertained for all foreigners culminated in 1868 in the murder of an officer and 10 sailors of a French man-of-war - a crime expiated by 11 of the participants, who committed harakiri in one of the local temples, in the presence of Japanese and Frenchmen.

Wakayama (40 M. from Osaka; fare, p. lxxxii, 2 hrs.), the chief city (pop. 77,300) of Wakayama Prefecture, Kii Province, stands near the mouth of the Kino River, and is the junction of the Wakayama Section of the Kansai Line of the Imperial Government Railways. The region roundabout forms the southernmost part or the rounded peninsula of Yamato, belongs to the Nankai-do, or Southern Sea Road, and is regarded by the Japanese as one of the loveliest in the Empire. The province combines most of the natural beauties of Japanese scenery, and produces many valuable products. The warm waters of the Kii Channel (or Linschoten Strait) wash the W. shores, the indented bays of which are extolled for their exquisite views. Carefully cultivated fields stretch southward and bring forth bountiful crops of rice, cotton, and grain. The valleys between the hills flame with orange plantations, the hills themselves are studded all over with rounded tea-bushes that look like the umbones on a big bell. Noble conifers, paper mulberries, cryptomerias, retinosporas, and tallow-trees adorn the mt. slopes, and equally splendid camphor laurels the temple yards. The mandarin-oranges (Chinese chu-sha kih; Jap. mikan) of this district are in the truest sense the Citrus nobilis, for they are delicious and deservedly famous. Quantities of them are produced in the Arida district, S.E. of Wakayama, and are sent throughout N. Japan. When ripe, the skin of the fruit is of a cinnabar red color, and adheres to the pulp by a few loose fibers.

The Wakayama Castle, erected (in 1850) just prior to the Restoration, is excellently preserved, and is considered a good example of this style of architecture. A fine view is obtainable from the upper (3d) story, over the wooded hill on which it

stands, to the sea on one side, and to mts. on the other. The old castle, built in 1586 by Hideyoshi's brother Hidenaga, has perished. - Kimii-dera, a Buddhist temple 2d in the list of the 33 sacred to Kwannon, finely situated on the slope of Nakusa-yama (754 ft.) 3 M. S.E. of the city, is the vantage-point whence Japanese usually view the charming stretch of sandy beach known as Waka-no-ura, which extends westward along Waka-no-ura-wan. - Koya-san, the holy mt. described at p. 511, lies 30 M. to the E. of Wakayama, and is often approached by pilgrims from this region. Foreigners will perhaps find it easier and more convenient to make the excursion from Kyoto. The nearest point by rly. (several trains daily in about 1 hr.) is (24 M.) Koya-guchi. Coasting-steamers leave Wakayama almost daily for various small ports near by.

Yokohama-Kobe Route (No. 36), continued from p. 607. Westward from the busy Osaka Station the train threads vast freight yards that recall those of Kansas City and Chicago. Miles of narrow streets dodge away at the left, and scores of smoking factory chimneys advertise the feverish activity of Japan's greatest manufacturing city. The region we now traverse is celebrated for the production of excellent sake, and one notes extensive godowns filled with the ripening tipple. It is shipped in attractive half-barrels swathed in straw and covered with ideographs.

At (342 M.) Kanzaki Jct. a branch rly. runs N.W. to the nearby town of Takaradzuka (p. 629), home of the Clifford Wilkinson Tansan Mineral Springs, where the most celebrated and best liked table waters in the eastern world are bottled, and whence thousands of cases go daily to the uttermost points of the South Seas and the East Indies. Hundreds of Osaka and Kobe residents go daily to the springs to drink of the famous waters, enjoy the fine baths for which Takaradzuka is widely known, and also to hear the Russian, Italian, and Japanese Operas given (at exceptionally low prices) throughout the year in the equally celebrated Takaradzuka Opera House (huge stage and a seating capacity of 3000).

347 M. Nishinomiya is the junction point for several trolley-lines which run direct from Osaka to Takaradzuka, and connect here with other lines to Kobe. - The extensive system of dykes one sees in this region serve to keep the turbulent rivers in check during the rainy season, when small trickles become raging torrents. At the left of the rly. one notes the fine, wide auto boulevard which connects Kobe and Osaka. Along the center runs a line of electric cars, and beyond it, and on the r. of the rly. run other lines to care for the immense traffic.

The sea now comes into the line of vision and adds a distinct charm to the wide panorama. Bismarck Hill stands out boldly at the N.W. The many attractive homes perched on the hillslopes beyond Sumiyoshi are of Kobe residents. The views over the wide harbor at the left, with hundreds of ships riding at anchor, are inspiring. Far beyond are the lovely reaches of the Inland Sea, one of the most beautiful sheets of water in the world. The cable leading up to the Maya Temple is seen at the right. 358 M. Kobe (Sannomiya Station). See next page.