横浜から国府津・御殿場（富士山・精進湖）・静岡を経て名古屋へ（京都・大阪・神戸方面）

24. From Yokohama via Kozu, Gotemba (Fuji-san, Shoji), and Shizuoka to Nagoya (Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe).

Tokaido Main Line of the Imperial Government Railways.

Frequent, excellently-equipped, comfortable local and express trains with good Dining, Sleeping, Observation cars make this delightful trip daily, touching at Shizuoka, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe and other important cities. For data relating to fares, time, etc., consult the Rly. Time Table.

Between Yokohama and Kobe (routes 24, 26, and 36) the rly. traverses 25 tunnels, crosses 76 rivers and the provinces of Sagami, Suruga, Totomi, Mikawa, Owari, Mino, Omi, and Yamashiro before entering Settsu. At times the train skirts portions of the lovely coast of the Pacific Ocean and affords adorable views (best from the left side of car) of the sea and Fuji-san (right side of car). It crosses and re-crosses the old Tokaido, which at present is much used by automobilists. The highest point of the line is at Gotemba (1598 ft.), near the base of Fuji.

Yokohama (see p. 10). The rly. bears round to the left, circles the port, and runs toward the W. through a succession of flat valleys cut up into rice-fields that are a mass of sticky mud in early spring, a carpet of vivid green in summer, and half-submerged, repulsive plots in winter. The thickly wooded green hills protect the region from the chill N. winds, and late in the fall and very early in the spring the straw-thatched native houses are embowered in flowers and have purple sweet-flags growing in bands 2 ft. wide along their ridge-poles. The big push-carts on the flanking highway are usually filled with sturdy onions, edible lilies, or daikons for the Yokohama markets. Beyond Hodogaya the grade slopes upward through the Shimidzuyado Tunnel (701 ft. long) to a valley hemmed in by graceful pine groves, bamboo, maple, cherry, and other trees. Hereabout the peasant women wear skin-tight trousers when working in the slime of the paddy-fields, and squads of them may be seen knee-deep in the malodorous muck from whose sticky black mass grows the excellent native rice. The line soon crosses the broad automobile road which links Yokohama to Kamakura, Dzushi, Yokosuka, and Misaki. Beyond Totsuka, where the fertile Seki Valley is entered, the auto road strikes off left in order to be nearer to the sea, and the rly. continues on through hills marked by numerous cuts and admirable retaining walls of speckled granite. Albeit the land hereabout has been intensively cultivated for more than a thousand years, — perchance with little or no rest, — the constant addition of fertilizers has made it amazingly rich and productive.

10 M. Ofuna Jct., is the point of departure for Kamakura and the places described in Rte. 2, p. 28. The near-by Caves of Taya-no-ana, with some crude carvings on the soft walls, are of no interest. An electric car-line (station at the left of the rly.) runs S. from (12 M.) Fujisawa to (2 M.) Katase, the nearest point on the mainland to Enoshima (p. 34).

The Buddhist Temple (Yugyo-ji, of the Zen sect), ½ M. from the Fujisawa Station, is of less interest to foreigners than to Japanese, some of whom believe that the abbots have special powers of healing. Kugenuma (Inn: Taiko-kwan), a bathing-resort (for natives) 1½ M. to the S.W. of the station, is prettily situated. On the lowlands between the pine-clad hills hereabout many luscious (American variety) peaches are grown for the Yokohama and Tokyo markets. The Hakone Mts., with Fuji as the culminating point, are soon descried at the right. There are extensive Golf Links at (17 M.) Chigasaki, a seaside resort, and good sea-bathing. The Baniu River, which flows out of Lake Yamanaka, on the N.E. side of Fuji-san, is now crossed on a bridge 2126 ft. long which cost 77,700 yen. 28 M. Hiratsuka, amid pine groves, is the starting-out place for the (9 M. N.) locally celebrated Afuri-jinsha, a Shinto shrine on O-yama (4400 ft.), near some pretty cascades. The country hereabout is hilly, pine-clad, and with a good auto road across it; the sea is visible at the left.

22 M. Oiso (Inn: Toryo-kwan, ¥2.50), a popular bathing-resort with many picturesque Japanese villas overlooking the sea, has some unusually big pine trees; the views of the distant Fuji are entrancing. Orange groves are features of the country, which produces an unusual number of lovely flowering trees interspersed here and there with the berberidaceous Nandina domestica. Beyond Ninomiya the land takes on a sub-tropical aspect which is heightened by many palmettoes, bamboos, and wide fields of maize and broom-corn.

29 M. Kozu (or Kodzu; Inn: Kozu-kwan, ¥2.50), a picturesque town overlooking the beautiful Sagami Bay (fine beach), is the getting-off place for Miyanoshita and Atami. The tram-cars which leave from the shed at the left of the station (hard by the inn) go to Odawara, Yumoto, and other near-by places (Rte. 5, p. 55). From this station the rly. ascends through the Sakawa Valley to the foothills of the Hakone Range; Fuji rises grandly at the left, above Futago-yama, Myojingatake, Kami-yama, Kintoki-zan, and minor peaks. The lesser hills are green to their summits, and the intervening valleys are carefully cultivated. The several small rivers which cross the country hereabout and beyond (35 M.) Matsuda are seen to have required extensive and costly riparian work and Cyclopean stone walls to keep them within bounds during the rainy season. The rly. climbs steadily through a labyrinth of hills, flecked with wild flowers, to 39 M. Yamakita, a mt. village near the brawling Sakawa River. A product of this stream, in the shape of a small silvery trout seasoned with vinegar, cooked with rice, and called sushi, is sold at this and other stations (16 sen), and though unsavory and unpalatable to foreigners, it is much liked by the Japanese. The stiffish up-grade now

leads through several tunnels of the Hakone Mts. and across a number of rivers and picturesque gorges spanned by spider-like suspension bridges and idealized by plunging waterfalls. Beautiful glimpses of Fuji, thrusting its glistening cone up through cottony clouds that look like ghostly wreaths or snow exhalations, are observed from the right side of the train. From this distance the sacred mt. looks strangely white and spectral against the cobalt sky, and it shimmers with a blinding white beauty unlike the impression it usually conveys. Many of the streams which slither down from its frosty heights are made to turn big overshot water-wheels that help the farmer at his tasks and hull his rice. Greater power has been secured from them by the influential Fuji Cotton Spinning Mills Co., whose series of factories and the clustering homes of hundreds of their operatives are seen from Oyama Station. In its efforts to reach the plain 600 ft. higher, the train now follows the sinuous course of the river — crossing and re-crossing it until it emerges on the extensive highland dominated by Fuji's gigantic shadow, and by the huge lateral ridges which lead from it to the right and left.

52 M. Gotemba (1589 ft.), a starting-point for the ascent of Fuji-san (comp. p. 45); sometime the seat of a hunting-lodge erected by the shogun, Minamoto Yoritomo (whence the name: Goten, a palace; and ba, site or spot), anciently was much in favor with the Kamakura Regents, who foregathered here to make up the hunting-parties (a popular motive with artistic decorators and often referred to in Japanese history) called Fuji no maki-gari. From the platform of the nondescript station, the traveler gets an uninterrupted view of the splendid mt. from its wide, swelling base, to its serrated summit. It is seen to the best advantage in early spring or late autumn when a snowy mantle resembling spotless ermine extends from the cusped crest far over its shoulders and down its sides. Isolated patches of this snow remain in the deep ravines (invisible from the rly.) until midsummer, and when the last have disappeared the aspect of the mt. is much like Vesuvius when seen from Naples. At this time, too, the station is usually thronged with staffed pilgrims bound for, or away from, the sacred peak. — The line now enters Suruga Province and continues along a splendidly rolling country delimned at the left by the Hakone Range. With a good field-glass, one can pick out the Otome-toge, beyond which lies Lake Hakone. Some 6 M. to the S. of the rly., in a beautiful sequestered valley at the base of the Hakone Range, embowered in fine old cherry trees, is the Leper Hospital (founded in 1888 by Père Testevinde, a noble French Catholic missionary), known as the Léproserie de Gotemba. Clustering near the chapel erected by the self-denying priests who built it, and who spend their lives caring for the hundred or more unfortunate leper inmates of the place,

is a little settlement to which all suffering bodies are welcome. — The common Japanese name for the quite prevalent leprosy (caused by the Lepra bacillus) is Raibyo (or kattai). The euphemistic name is Tenkeibyo ('Heaven-sent disease'). A similar hospital (both peculiarly deserving charities) is located at Kumamoto, in Kyushu.

The slope is now perceptibly downward; the streams flow S. and W., and the roughish plain across which the train dashes at top speed has a rugged beauty in pleasing contrast to the customary soft island scenery. The land seems to tip toward the S. as if courting the sunshine, and it affords a magnificent panorama over a vast area. Fuji dominates it like some huge hoary-headed sentinel, and the long lava-flows which seam it are the records of the sacred mt. when it was a puling infant. In the lower reaches of the wide valley plums, peaches, early cherries, magnolias, and beautiful Camellias japonicas may often be seen commingling their fragrance and charm in early March. The streams which pour down from Fuji's flanks irrigate the orchards and gardens, turn many a mossy water-wheel, and give life to the flax-fields. — About a mile N. from 55 M. Sano (Sano Hotel, ¥4 a day, Am. pl.; English spoken) is a cluster of 6 waterfalls called Sano Bakuen; and 1 M. beyond them a picturesque spot called Keiga-shima, with some curious rocks. The highest of the falls (Fujimi) is 44 ft.; the pool into which they tumble collectively with a thundering roar, contains trout. Good pheasant shooting in season. The Agricultural Experimental Farm is near the rly. station.

59 M. Mishima Jct. is the point of departure for several small towns on the Izu Peninsula. Chief among them is Ohito (12 M.; several trains daily; fare, 66 sen, 1st cl.), whence a good road leads S.E. to (3 M.; jinriki and basha) the Shuzenji Hot Springs (Shuzenji Hotel, ¥4 a day, Am. pl.) — a popular resort (for Japanese). The springs contain sulphur and carbonate of soda. Eight miles distant (S.E.) are the Yugashima Hot Springs. The volcanic mts. which stretch across the narrow peninsula from E. to W. are known by the generic term Amagi-san — which in reality is the name of the culminating point (4760 ft.). Shimoda, a small port farther along, facing the lower end of Sagami Bay, is said to be the first port stopped at by Commodore Perry in 1854. The best-known town is Atami, on the N.E. coast, 13 M. E. of Mishima, and described at p. 64. — The rly. now turns W. and soon reaches 66 M. Numazu (Inn: Sugimoto-ya, ¥2.50), a monotonous town with the remains of a daimyo's castle built by Takeda Katsuyori in 1579. Of the 3000 houses comprising the town, 2500 were

destroyed by a fire in March, 1913. The seashore town (3 M.; tramway) of Ushibuse (Inn: Mishima-kwan, ¥2.50) is popular with Japanese. Near by is the prettily situated Shizuura (Inn: Hoyo-kwan, ¥2.50), with a lovely stretch of beach cele-

brated in song and story, and a villa occupied by the Empress and Emperor during several weeks of the short winter. The peaches grown in the neighborhood are excellent, and the views of Fuji-san adorable. The Bay of Enoura is one of the most charming in the entire region.

West of Numazu the rly. curves to the right and passes through miles of peach orchards upon which the snowy Fuji looks down in frigid silence. Pears, edible lilies, and tea are raised, and considerable rope is made at the open-air rope-walks one sees from the train. 70 M. Hara. 76 M. Suzukawa, one of the starting-points for Lake Shoji (p. 43), and for the ascent of Fuji via Omiya. The skirts of the sacred mt., which from here resembles a colossal bump rising from the plain, stretch almost to this point, and along the graduated slope the eye travels quite up to the rim of the cone — which on its S. side exhibits much less snow than at the N. The picturesque ridge which overlooks Suruga Bay at this point is clothed with fantastic pine trees; the beach which lies below and stretches to the Fuji River, is known as Tagonoura, and is very lovely — with the Japanesy charm that appeals to the native poet.

79 M. Fuji Station is 20½ M. from the summit of the mt. by the Omiyaguchi route; the Sengen Shrine, dedicated to the goddess of the volcano, is 5½ M. to the N. The light rly. which bears off to the right goes (via 5 M. Omiya) to 15 M. Kamiide (p. 45), whence it is to be extended (as the Fuji-Minobu Rly.) to (49 M.) Kofu (p. 392). A lateral line goes from Omiya to (3 M.) Suzukawa. The shallow but turbulent Fuji River (one of the largest on the line) is now crossed on a 9-span steel bridge (cost 283,000 yen) 1867 ft. long. Trackers haul boats upstream against the strong current, and many logs descend the rapids to be sawn into lumber at Iwabuchi. The great width of the river at this point, where it enters the sea, illustrates the vast extent of land the Japanese could reclaim if their rivers were kept within bounds. In flood-time, the current of this dashing stream has a velocity of 27 ft. per second, and its annual pranks cost many lives and vast sums of money. The sea and the point of land known as Mio-no-Matsubara are now visible at the left.

82 M. Iwabuchi (Inn: Tani-ya, ¥2.50, at the station), the terminus for travelers descending the rapids of the Fuji-kawa, is also the starting-point (by river) for Minobu (p. 393). From the right of the train as it proceeds W. one sees the peerless and almost superhumanly beautiful Fuji as it rises like a serene apotheosis toward the winsome blue sky. Coupled with the wonderful sea flanked by a fringe of graceful pines it forms a picture of infinite charm. Many of the farmsteads hereabout are embowered in orchards with fields of waving sugar-cane stretching away from them. Beyond 85 M. Kambara, the Yui-gawa is crossed and the roar of the near-by sea drowns the

clatter of the train. High hills flank the rly. on the right, and blue mts. wall the distant horizon. From a terrace along which the train runs its daring course, one looks down upon a sea that is a miracle of beauty, and upon splendid breakers that pound and break like glass upon the shore. Quaint brown fishing-hamlets stud the beach, and from them put forth many quaint junks manned (and womaned) by semi-nude brown folks who get their living from the sounding sea. For miles the rly. follows the profile of the hills, flanking the good automobile road below and watched by the ever-jealous Fuji.

88 M. Okitsu (Inn: Tokai Hotel, semi-foreign, ¥4 a day, Am. pl.), a picturesque town near a lovely beach. The 600 or more cherry trees planted about General U. S. Grant's Tomb (New York City) came from here, and were shipped in 1912. The bronze statue at the right of the station commemorates Marquis Inoue. The aforetime brilliant Seikenji (a temple of the Zen sect) is now faded and neglected, but the views therefrom are charming. — Stuffy little boats leave Okitsu at intervals during each day for the sandy peninsula (2½ M.; fare, 60 sen) of Mio-no-Matsubara, a spot tenderly enshrined in the native mind for a quaint legend in which a poor fisherman, a beautiful dancing fairy, and a robe of feathers play conspicuous parts.

92 M. Ejiri (Inn: Fukuzumi-ya, ¥2.50) is about 1 M. (light rly.) from Port Shimizu, on Suruga Bay, whence much of the Shizuoka tea (p. cix) is exported. The chief product of the surrounding country is green tea; the hillsides are covered with the low, knob-like bushes, which at times sweep down and compete in the lowlands with the rice grown there. During the picking season the fields are gay with the brightly colored costumes of the women who snip off the young leaves. The Tomoye-gawa is crossed before reaching

99 M. Shizuoka (Inn: Daitokwan Hotel, 2 min. from station, English spoken, ¥5 a day, Am. pl.), chief city of Shizuoka-ken, Suruga Province, with 54,000 inhabs. Prior to the Restoration, the historic town — sometime the residence of the governing daimyos of Suruga — went by the names Sumpu, Funai, and Fuchu. The imperial army marched through it on its way to Yedo in 1868, and after the (late) Mikado was restored to his throne Keikei (Hitotsubashi Yoshinobu), the last of the shoguns, went into retirement here. Here the great Tokugawa Ieyasu dwelt before he founded Yedo, and hither he came to spend his last days in peace. Shizuoka means 'Hill of Peace,' and this illusive quality was apparently maintained by the numerous Hatamoto or immediate vassals of the shogunal household. The military greatness which was once a feature of the place has departed; the descendants of the sometime swashbuckling samurai

employ their energies in making lacquered articles and bamboo-work. A specialty is the delicate bamboo plaiting sometimes used to cover the very thin eggshell porcelain teacups made in the province of Mino. The basket-work is celebrated locally; the best tea, much of which is exported to America, comes from the near-by village of Ashikubo. Literatists know Shizuoka for the many old treasures of Japanese literature which the discerning Ieyasu caused to be printed here. A number of relics of the man are preserved in the Rinzai-ji, a Buddhist temple (Zen sect) on the outskirts of the city, near a pretty landscape garden. The great shogun is said to have learned to write here, and to the temple treasury he gave, in his old age, some pieces of lacquered ware and other things. His old castle is now in a ruinous state. His wife is buried in the Hodai-ji. The old Sengen Temple, in a garden in the N. suburbs, at the foot of Shizuhata-yama, is dedicated to the (Shinto) goddess of Mt. Fuji. A gaudy procession in honor of this divinity is held in the city from April 1 to 5.

From an ecclesiological viewpoint the old Temples of Kunozan are more interesting than any of the city fanes. They occupy a magnificent position on the summit of Kuno Mt. 6½ M. E. of Shizuoka (1 hr. by jinriki; single fare, 45 sen; return, 75; 30% more in bad weather), overlooking the sea, and 900 ft. above it. Here, in 1582, Ieyasu razed a castle which had been erected by Takeda Shingen in 1568, and built a temple which was to serve as his tomb in 1616. The body was removed to the fine Nikko mausoleum a year later, but the temples remain. They are much after the style of the Nikko structures, with great vermilion gateways and florid polychromatic interior decorations enriched by numerous wood-carvings. More than a thousand steps have been cut out of the rocky hill, and as one laboriously climbs the zigzags the views in retrospect are delightful. Splendid trees adorn the graduated terraces; a fee of 20 sen is charged to see the main temple — which will hardly repay the hurried traveler for the time spent in visiting it. Similar, and more extensive, views can be had at Maya-san, near Kobe.

Soon after leaving Shizuoka the wide Abe River is crossed on a steel bridge 1829 ft. long; the Kunozan Promontory, the calm waters of Suruga Bay, and the lovely, hazy shore of the Izu Peninsula beyond are seen at the left. The Sekibe Tunnel, 2864 ft. long; the Isonohama Tunnel (3179 ft.); the Hanazawa and the Seto Rivers, and several unimportant stations are passed before Shimada is reached. Just beyond it the line crosses the wide Oigawa on a 16-span steel bridge (3332 ft. long) which cost ¥409,216. Though insignificant in the dry season, the river often becomes a raging and destructive torrent in summer. It rises in Shirane-san (Kai Province), is there called the Tashiro-gawa, and it forms the dividing-line be-

tween Suruga and Totomi Provinces before ending its 112 M. course at Suruga Bay. Anciently the native boats were too frail to stem the surging current, and travelers on the old Tokaido at this point were carried across the stream on small platforms or barrows called rendai. The habit of the naked coolies of stopping in midstream and haggling with their apprehensive fares formed one of the favorite themes of the old color-print makers.

The line now slopes sharply upward and is marked by extensive earthworks; at the top of the hill (407 ft.) the Makinohara Tunnel (3273 ft. long; cost 213,617 yen) is traversed and the train descends (into Totomi Province) through tea and tobacco plantations. Three rivers are crossed before 131 M. Kakegawa (Inn: Fujiya, ¥3 a day) is reached. Lovers of old Shinto shrines usually descend here for the locally renowned temples of Akiha, on the summit of Mt. Akiha, 24 M. to the N.W. Nondescript stations, wide rice-fields, and tea and tobacco plantations mark the line to the Tenryu River (comp. p. 391), which is crossed on a 19-span bridge (3967 ft.; one of the longest in Japan; cost 507,000 yen). 150 M. Hamamatsu, or 'Coast Fir' (Inn: Ogome-ya; Hana-ya, near station, ¥2.50), with 33,000 inhabs., the chief town of Totomi Province (Shizuoka Prefecture), was formerly called Hikuma, and in the 16th cent. was an important daimyo stronghold under Tokugawa Ieyasu. The ruins of the old castle built by him in 1571 lie about 1 M. from the station. The suburbs contain many lotus-ponds that are a flaming glory in Aug. Considerable drawn-linen work is produced in the region roundabout. Wide rice-plains stretch beyond to 158 M. Maisaka, where there is a big lagoon called Hamana Lake, or Hamana Ko (5 M. from E. to W. and 7 from N. to S.). The great breakers which curl in from the sea at the left are beautiful and they perchance gave the place its name. Japanese know it by its ancient title of To-tsu-awa-umi (of which Totomi, the name of the province, is a contraction), or 'The remote foamy sea,' in contradistinction to Chika-tsu-awa-umi, or 'The near foamy sea' — anciently the name of the present Lake Biwa. The small and locally popular island is Benten-jima. The rly. crosses the lagoon on a long causeway. — The bronze statue surmounting a (100 ft.) hill ½ M. to the right of (170 M.) Futagawa Station, and approached by a fine road flanked with splendid trees, is called the Iwaya no Kwannon, and dates from 1765; the views from the rock are extensive.

169 M. Toyohashi (Inn: Senzai-ro, ¥3), a garrison town (pop. 44,000) in Mikawa Province (Aichi Prefecture), was formerly called Yoshida — a name by which many persons know it still. A castle was erected here in the 15th cent., and was stormed and taken by Ieyasu in 1564. A long dynasty of daimyos held it under the Tokugawa régime. — The branch rly. which runs

hence to 17 M. Nagashino touches at stations of no importance to foreigners. At 5 M. Toyokawa, there is a locally celebrated Shinto shrine. At 10 M. Tojo, the 60-foot waterfall called Ushinotaki is worth looking at if one happens to be in the neighborhood. A great battle was fought near Nagashino in the 16th cent. and the soil is heavy with the bones of the slain warriors. The (4 M.) Buddhist temple of Horaiji, on Mt. Horai, calls for no particular mention.

Many charming, pine-clad islands come into the range of vision after the train passes the seaside town of 175 M. Goyu. Beyond 181 M. Kamagori green hills wall in the plain, and lines of fantastic and decrepit old pine trees flank the picturesque shore. The shadowy mts. of Iga and Ise, and the diminutive province of Shima (with its pearl-divers, p. cxx), wheel into the range of vision beyond 186 M. Koda, where the tea plantations of the hills have capitulated to lowland fields of rice. 191 M. Okazaki (Inn: Kagiya, ¥2.50), the chief town (pop. 25,000) of Mikawa Province, is celebrated as the birthplace (1542) of Ieyasu, founder and greatest of the shoguns of the Tokugawa line. The remains of the Okazaki Castle (2½ M. from the station), in which he was born, are still to be seen. The tram-cars, which leave from the right side of the station, go to several suburban towns. The rly. now curves broadly to the left, then crosses the wide Yahagi-gawa, which rises near the frontier of Mino and Shinano, traverses Mikawa, and falls into the Gulf of Owari. It is celebrated in history as the Washizuka-gawa, and on its shores Nitta Yoshisada defeated Ashikaga Tadayoshi in 1335. — The branch line which diverges S. from 204 M. Obu goes to (10 M.) Taketoyo, a small port on the E. shore of Ise Bay. The many factory chimneys of 215 M. Atsuta (a suburb of Nagoya, 2 M. by tramcar) now come into view. The Atsuta-daijingu, supposed to have been founded here in A.D. 686, and reconstructed (in 1893) in the pure Shinto style, after the manner of the noted Ise Shrines at Yamada (Rte. 35), is said to contain the precious sword (Kusa-nagi no Tsurugi) which, with the mythological mirror and jewel, comprise the Imperial Regalia that Susano-o-no-Mikoto found in the tail of the Yamato no orochi, or 8-headed serpent. The spot is of less interest to foreigners than the great festival held here in May of each year, with the aim of estimating the forthcoming crop of cereals. — After passing the big gov't arsenal (right), the train enters the extensive suburbs of 218 M. Nagoya (see below). For a continuation of the journey to Kyoto see Rte. 26, p. 395.

Nagoya (nahng-oh'-yah), 6th largest and one of the most prosperous manufacturing cities (see the accompanying plan) of the Empire; a bright, busy, cheerful place on the N. shore of Atsuta Bay and the right bank of the Shonai River; capital of Owari Province, with 430,000 inhabs., is noted for its pro-

duction of cloisonné, porcelain, clocks, fans, embroidery, lanterns, and lacquered wares, and for its many cotton-spinning, silk-weaving, and other mills. Several rly. lines center here, and steamships connect the city with other Japanese ports. Foreigners know it chiefly for its splendidly preserved castle (one of the finest in Japan), which Tokugawa Ieyasu made his daimyos construct when he gave the province in fief to his (9th) son Yoshinao (in 1610). The place came into history early in the 14th cent., when a family of the name of Nagoya resided there. Shiba Yoshimune, governor of the province, built the first castle about 1525, but the martial Oda Nobunaga wrested it from him in 1532. After this was razed and the present castle built on the site, the place became the seat of the great daimyos of the House of Owari, the family of which ranked as one of the Three August Families (Go san-ke) permitted to supply a successor to their kinsman the shogun in default of an heir. It is one of the most comfortable places E. of Kyoto to break the journey between Yokohama and Kobe, particularly in mid-April, when the city is in an unusually joyous mood. At this time the annual festival (said to have originated with the great Owari Clan during the Tokugawa régime) of the Toshogu Shrine is celebrated with great pomp. Portable sacred cars (mikoshi) carried by stout men, escorted by robed Shinto priests on horseback, and followed by scores of men in ancient armor and mediaeval accoutrements, assisted by fantastically clad youths and maidens, parade the streets, and bridge the gap between the 16th and the 20th centuries. Thousands of lighted lanterns aid in the illuminations after dusk and present a bewildering sight. The Nagoya Dances, performed by geisha; the Azalea Show in May, and the Chrysanthemum Exhibit in Oct.-Nov. attract many Japanese and some foreigners. The city was rather roughly shaken by the great Mino-Owari earthquake of 1891, and a number of buildings were demolished.

The Station of the Tokaido Railway is at the W. edge of the city (Pl. A, 2) where trains on the Kansai Line (to Yamada-Ise, see Rte. 35) arrive and leave. The Chikusa Station (Pl. C, 2), an auxiliary station of the Chuo or Central Line (Rte. 25, p. 384), is at the E., and that of the tram-line to Seto is near the castle gate (Pl. B, 2).

Electric Street-Cars run to many points in the city and the suburbs, and give a cheap and rapid service.

Autos ply for hire and are always available. Rates about those of other Japanese cities. By telephoning ahead to the Nagoya Hotel, the traveler can be sure that a commodious car will be waiting for him at the station.

Hotels. The *Nagoya Hotel (Tel. address, 'Hotel Nagoya') is near the rly. station (see the accompanying plan) and is recommended for its good, clean, well-appointed rooms and dining-room (all modern conveniences), its good food and service, and the evident desire of its English-speaking manager to serve his foreign guests and make them comfortable.

Rates. Rooms only, from 6 yen and up. Meals in the Restaurant à la carte at moderate prices. Room and board (American Plan) from 12 yen and up.

The Bank of Japan (Nippon Ginko) has a branch at Sakae-machi, Naka-ku; — The Mitsui Ginko, at Temma-cho, Nishi-ku. — The Police Station is at Nishi Shin-machi; the Post-Office, in Sakae-machi Sanchome.

A good idea of the products of Nagoya and their selling prices can be obtained at the Commercial Museum. A day is sufficient for the inspection of the Castle and the chief sights hereinafter described. Permits to see the cloisonné and porcelain factories can be had of the hotel management. The Potteries of Seto are similar to those of Kyoto, and are of interest chiefly to porcelainists. There are several Foreign Missions in Nagoya, and dates of church services and other information relating to them will be found usually posted in the hotel lobby. — The main business street is Hirokoji (Broadway), which links the Tokaido Rly. Station at the W. with the Chikusa Station at the E. Electric street-cars run its entire length. The Kinenhi, or War Monument (near the Nippon Ginko), was erected in 1901 and commemorates the soldiers of the Third Imperial Army Division who died in the Japan-China War. Chief among the several city parks is Nakamura Park, in the W. suburb, where there are cherry blossoms in April and scarlet maples in Nov. A popular resort, similar to Asakusa in Tokyo, is the Osu Kwannon Temple court, near the center of the city. The Koshoji at Yagoto, in the E. suburb, is likewise popular; the grounds are said to have been laid out originally on the plan of Koya-san (Rte. 28), and during the reign of Tokugawa Yoshinao, pilgrimages were made to it and it was called the Koya-san of Owari.

The Harbor, at the S. end of the city, about 4 M. from the hotel (tramway), has two breakwaters each over a mile long, and an inner harbor with 25 ft. of water at low tide; the extensive docks, etc., were completed in 1907 and cost 3 million yen.

The Dog Shows held from time to time (usually in the Aichi-ken Commercial Museum) attract certain travelers. Nagoya dog-fanciers make a business of breeding Japanese Spaniels (chin) or pugs, which are produced by careful in-and-in breeding, dieting, and the selection of the smallest of their kind. Good specimens are by no means common, and are never seen running about the streets unattended. While mongrels which later develop long legs and other undesirable features may be had at the bird-stores for ¥8-10, dogs of good pedigree cost from ¥50 to ¥200 each. They are extremely delicate, and a change of food and climate is often fatal. Sea-captains who make a business of taking them to foreign countries (where they are very expensive) often lose a big percentage of the dogs in transit. Dried bonito, a little rice, and less water, usually constitute their meager diet. Worms are their greatest enemies. The first dogs of the kind ever seen in America were (4) presented to Commodore Perry (for President Fillmore) by the Mikado in 1854. Essentially toys, the mature pugs are good only as pets. They are lovable, gentle, and affectionate. The points are: Head: large, broad, slightly rounded skull; neck short and moderately thick. Eyes: large, dark, lustrous, tearful, rather prominent and wide apart. Muzzle: strong, wide, short from top to nose; jaws upturned, teeth hidden; end of tongue visible; nose short with wide end, and open nostrils. Ears: small, V-shaped, well-feathered, set high and wide apart, carried forward. Body: compact, squarely built, cobby, the body and legs forming a square. Legs: light in bone, small, slender, and well-feathered. Feet: small, cat-foot in form, the feather increasing the length, never the width. The tail is carried over the back in a tight curl, and it is profusely feathered. Coat: plentiful, long, and straight, rather silky, free from wave and not too flat. Color: distinctly defined black and white, or red and white, Blenheim markings preferred. The best weights range from about 4 to 8 pounds, the smaller the better. The scale of points runs as follows: Head, size, and shape of skull, 10; shortness of face and muzzle, 10; eyes, 10; ears, 10; coat and markings, 15; legs and feet, 10; tail, 10; size and symmetry, 20; width of muzzle, 5. Total, 100. A valuable dog should always be accompanied by a written pedigree. A very homely woman is often referred to in Japan as having 'a face like a sneezing chin.'

The *Castle (Tenshu Kaku, or O Shiro), a cyclopean, 5-storied, fortified structure in the N. quarter of the city (Pl. B, 1), within a series of (dry) moats and in beautiful grounds

now smaller than of yore, was begun in 1611 and completed 2 yrs. later under the superintendence of Kato Kiyomasa. Ostensibly a voluntary gift from a score or more feudal barons to their Lord Yoshinao, it was in reality constructed almost entirely by forced labor, which Fukushima of Aki, Kato Kiyomasa of Kumamoto, and Kuroda of Chikuzen chiefly had to furnish. The crafty Ieyasu's manifest aim was so to impoverish the great daimyos that they would be unable to wage a successful war against him, and in this he practically succeeded. The huge, magnificently preserved structure is approximately 150 ft. high, with immensely solid walls 15-18 ft. thick, and 244 windows. Hinoki is the wood most employed. The 1st and 2d floors measure 120 ft. from N. to S. and 108 from E. to W.; the 3d is 90 by 72; the 4th, 72 by 54; the 5th, 54 by 42; 151 steps lead from the ground to the top floor, from the windows of which extensive views are obtainable.

A special permit, easily obtainable through one's Minister or Ambassador at Tokyo, is necessary to gain admittance to the castle. Without it it is useless to try to get in, for fees are not accepted and a gate-keeper (officer in the army) must be passed before the castellan is reached. Furthermore, as the fortress (which in reality is the Nagoya Detached Palace of the Imperial Household) is under military control, ulterior motives might be suspected and trouble provoked. The permit is good only for the person whose name appears on it, so that the traveler accompanied by a lady should have her name appear thereon, else she will be refused admittance. When the pass is issued at Tokyo a record is sent to the castellan and is entered in his book, to be checked when the permit is presented. The precaution is perhaps aimed to keep out undesirables and to have an exact record of those admitted. The custodian is not permitted to deviate from the rule, which is obeyed with military punctiliousness. The hours of admission are: Oct. to March, 9 A.M. to 3 P.M.; April to Sept., 8 to 4. Shoes do not have to be removed; smoking is rigorously prohibited, as is photographing, sketching, or the making of notes. An interpreter from the hotel may be useful.

The buildings at the right and left of the wide Hommachi, where it terminates at the castle wall (kabe), are the legal tribunals (kosoin). The spacious esplanades hereabout are used as drill-grounds; the barracks stand near by. A tramway now runs through the outer moat (hori), and the inner one is seen to be grass-grown. The white watch-towers at the corners of the huge inclosing walls are called sumiyagura. The traveler passes through the wide gap in the big wall and proceeds left to the Main Gate. The handsome metal-studded gate at the right is opened only for the Emperor. The officer's lodge, where the traveler's permit must be shown first, is just within. The fir tree beyond the lodge is said to be a thousand years old. Continuing up at the right, to the castellan's office, the visitor signs his name in the castle register, and is then conducted (by a castle guide, no fees) across an inner moat, through a small gate, to

The Castle Apartments, of interest chiefly for the decorations by Matahei (p. ccxxviii) and various artists of the Tosa and Kano schools (p. ccxxvii). Covers for shoes are provided at the

entrance. The 1st suite, called the Toranoma, or tiger rooms, contains sliding panels with decorations of tigers and bamboos by Kano Tanshin (1653-1718), and Kano Sanraku (1559-1635). The locally celebrated 'sleeping tiger' (by Sanraku) is a pudgy beast on a small panel near the floor at the left of the entrance. — When viewed from different angles his bulk seems to diminish or increase, and the natives regard this as a marvel of skillful painting. The beautiful slab of wood in the tokonoma of the 2d apartment is close-grained keyaki. The flower-panels of the chigai-dana (shelves) are well done. The big central fusuma at the left of the room portrays a blind tiger standing by its cub. The omission of the eyes was intentional, as the beast is thought (by easy critics) to be painted so true to the life that if its eyes were left in, so it could see, it would leap out at any one coming within reach of it! — The visitor is now conducted over the 'nightingale floors' (p. clxxx) of an adjoining corridor to some big cedar doors adorned on both sides with tigers amid bamboos, by Sanraku. In the next corridor are some perky tigers by Kano Eitoku (1543-90). The two smaller doors at the right are embellished with pines and brightly colored leaves by Tosa Mitsuoki (1617-91). The civet-cats (jako-neko) on the reverse of the big doors are believed to look straight at whosoever regards them from whatsoever angle. In the Jakonoma, or Civet-Cat Room, some of the panels are decorated (by Mitsuoki) with these animals; others bear peach- and apple-blossom designs. Daimyos formerly assembled in this room at the call of their master the shogun.

The decorations (pine and maple trees, apple blossoms, pheasants, etc.) of the following rooms are by Mitsuoki and Eitoku. The pierced panels with their admirable carvings are said to be each made of a single piece of wood. The Taimenjo (Reception Hall) contains some admirably painted sliding panels by the inimitable Domo no Matahei. The handsome black-lacquered ceilings are of a checker-board style known as gotenjo. The landscape views on the huge panel at the back of the alcove are taken from Arashiyama and Atagoyama at Kyoto. The redoubtable Oda Nobunaga once lived in this suite. The owl and oak-tree decorations of the cedar doors of the corridor are by Mitsuoki. The large wall-panels of the adjoining corridor, with graceful willow trees and white storks on a gold ground, are the work of Tosa Mitsunobu (1434-1525), one of the most celebrated painters of the Tosa school. The plain sunken squares of the coffered ceiling here are of choice cryptomeria wood from Satsuma Province. The cedar doors showing a waterfall beneath arching trees (as well as the opposite ones with hedges) are by Kano Koi. The same painter decorated the panels of the Winter Room, which we now enter, and which is usually set aside for the lodging of

titled visitors. The snow-laden trees with blue magpies (onagadori), and the immense plum tree (about 40 ft. long) are excellently done. The rooms beyond this suite (for the special use of the Emperor and not shown to visitors) contain some fusuma decorated with birds and flowers by Kano Tanyu, and some pierced ramma carved by Hidari Jingoro. The attractive little garden in the formal Japanese style differs but little from other similar landscape gardens.

Returning to the entrance, we now proceed to the castle proper, perched high on its symmetrical and massive foundation. Kato Kiyomasa's name is incised in the 3d big stone from the bottom at the corner. The entrance is through a small castellated structure at the left, thence along a narrow inclosed causeway called hashi dai; formerly decorated with armor and exposed at all times to a destructive fire from the defenders of the donjon. The darksome interior with its huge beams and forbidding walls is more like a dungeon than a castle. The vaulted guard-room is entered through iron-studded doors opening on to a series of steps that lead to the upper floor. At the top of each flight of ponderous stairs are heavy sliding horizontal doors that bar one's upward progress and recall stories of a giant's keep. At regular intervals, within, are triangular loopholes for cannon, and elongated slits down which boiling water or oil could be poured upon the heads of assaulters. At each of the four corners of the top floor are sliding windows with seats where guards kept constant watch out over the environing plain. In the center is a table with scores of lines radiating in all directions, like sunbeams, with the names of towns, roads, and passes whence enemies might come. The views out over the countryside are magnificent, and they embrace the city, the mts. of Omi, Echizen, Hida, Totomi, Ise, and Iga, as well as the lordly Fuji, which rises like a milky opal against the proud bosom of the sky. The 60 ft. well within the castle goes by the usual name Ogon sui, or 'golden water,' from the common belief that gold was thrown into it to keep it in a potable condition.

Mediaeval in construction, the fortress is equally so in comfort. A gloomier habitation could scarcely be imagined. War, defense, and extreme solidity were the ideas in the minds of its builders, and while it was never subjected to a sustained assault, the formidable Gifu earthquake of Oct., 1891, succeeded only in opening an insignificant crack in its massive sides. The superimposed, copper-bronze roofs, and their many gables covered with the green patina of age are strikingly handsome and graceful. A line of gilded Tokugawa crests adorns the upper ridge, at each end of which, twinkling in the sunlight, stand the famous gold dolphins (kin no shachi-hoko), their tails in the air, and protected by steel wire nets (comp. Castles, p. clxxxiv). A good field-glass will aid the traveler to a better

view of them. In 1873 the one on the N. side (8 ft. 5 in. high) was loaned to the Vienna Exposition, and while it was being brought back to Japan, the French Mail Steamer Nil was wrecked off the Izu coast and the dolphin remained in its native element from Feb., 1874, to July, 1875. The one at the S. is 8 ft. 3 in. high. Their exact weight and value (estimated at ¥350,000) are unknown. The dolphins on the smaller castle are of copper-bronze.

The Aichi-ken Commercial Museum (Hakubutsukwan), in Monzen-cho, near the center of the city (Pl. B, 2), — a prefectural institution aimed to promote commerce and improve the commercial conditions of the ken, — is open daily (except Monday) free to visitors, from 9 to 4 in winter and 8 to 5 in summer. In the well-appointed rooms of the fine new building constructed specially for it (cost, 370,000 yen), one may inspect an interesting collection of the varied products of Nagoya and vicinity — silks, lacquered wares, porcelains, cloisonné, etc. The wholesale price is usually marked on each article, thus giving the traveler a fairly correct idea of what the real values are. English is spoken by the management, which welcomes foreign visitors and furnishes, free, information relating to manufactured goods and their makers. Before leaving the grounds one should see the pretty garden, with its locally celebrated Sarumen Chaseki or 'Monkey-Face Room,' built by Oda Nobunaga (Toyotomi Hideyoshi's master when the latter was a boy, and to whom he owed his diplomatic training). Certain knots in the roughly hewn uprights of the diminutive room bore, in the eyes of Nobunaga, a whimsical likeness to the notoriously Simian-like face of the homely lad, whence the name. The 'Pine Moon Cottage' built by the 12th daimyo of Aichi Prefecture, is also interesting, as on the ceiling of the main room is a curious painting in sepia (by some

artist of the Kano school) of the 12 signs of the zodiac. In another room are 300 different decorations by various artists, all collected by the daimyo in question.

Aichi Ken, the department of which Nagoya is the chief city, with 1,874,000 inhabs., is known for its manufactures of musical instruments, straw and chip braids; fishing-nets, rope; the sweet sake called mirin; and Arimatsu-shibori, a varie-

gated cotton cloth exported in large quantities to China and Malaysia.

The Higashi Hongwanji, a huge Buddhist temple (of the E. branch of the Shin-shu) in the S. quarter of the city (Pl. B, 3), occupies the site of an earlier fane built in 1573 on the site of the first Nagoya Castle. The present structure dates from early in the 19th cent., and the wide inclosing walls behind a small moat impart the aspect rather of a fortress than of a temple. Entering through the E. gate, one continues beneath some fine old cherry trees that idealize the inclosure

with their pinkish-white blossoms in early April. The row of low buildings at the left are lodging-houses for the pilgrims, who cook their rice in the great kitchen of the apartment adjoining the temple. The Main Gate (sammon), with triple portals and great swinging doors finished in natural keyaki-wood, though badly weather-beaten and defiled by the many pigeons that nest in its sculptured niches, is still an attractive example of early Buddhist architecture. The usual dragons, waves, flowers, arabesques, and what-not form the motives of the maze of carvings, while some of the numerous sculptured, pierced wood panels have superimposed peonies in high relief upon them. The huge upright columns are set in elaborate bronze sockets that rest on granite bases. Minor bronze enrichments almost cover the structure, which admits one to a large yard that serves as the playground for the children of the neighborhood.

The immense double-roofed temple, consecrated to Amida and flanked by handsome bronze lanterns, has a noteworthy portico almost covered with sometime excellent wood carvings of elephant-heads, turtles, and the like. The commanding antefixes of the main roof resemble triple cannon and impart a militant air to the structure. The extraordinarily massive keyaki-wood pillars of the drafty interior (108 by 120 ft.) are in some cases 3 ft. in diameter, with ponderous cross-beams deeply and elaborately carved with conventional lions and dragons. All the brilliant decoration of the interior is centered in the naijin, beyond the chancel rail, and when the slanting rays of the setting sun search out its charms, the effect is dazzlingly rich. The superbly carved and gilded ramma (three in the center and three at each side) of the architrave are unusually excellent examples of this style of work. The central panels each carry two splendidly sculptured tennin moving with flowing and recurved draperies amidst clouds, with smaller groups of phoenixes and peacocks above, the motives being extended to the upper and lateral panels. The richly carved and gilded central altar (shumidan) contains a supple and graceful image of Amida that looks placidly down upon the customary altar fitments. The reliquary at the right enshrines a portrait of the founder of the sect. The kakemono at the left portrays Rennyo-Shonin (or Eto Daishi), reformer of the Shin-shu, and founder (1415-99) of numerous Hongwan temples. The unusually plain ceiling is coffered.

The Taimenjo, a spacious Assembly Room at the right of the main temple and connected thereto by a short corridor, has a coffered ceiling with panels decorated in blue, and some pierced ramma with some skillfully disposed groups of excellently sculptured and highly decorated tigers, birds, and flowers. The noteworthy fusuma here, with landscape views on a gold ground, and the big cedar doors decorated with irides-

cent peacocks, are by some unknown artist. It is worth while continuing through this room to the great kitchen (daidokoro) with its ponderous, rough-hewn beams, and big cauldrons where visiting pilgrims boil their rice. On the return, the bonze conducts one to the end of a long corridor and to a suite once occupied by the late Emperor and overlooking a pretty landscape garden. The tiny chaseki in the severe cha-no-yu style resembles a doll's house and is shown only to special visitors. The adjoining suite contains some rather indifferent fusuma embellished with Chinese figures.

The traveler with time to spare and a taste for bizarre rather than meritorious sculpture, may like to look into the Buddhist temple of Kakuo-den, at Higashi-yama (Pl. D, 2), in the E. suburb. The collection of small figures here, known as the Go-Hyaku Rakan, or 'Five Hundred Disciples of Buddha,' was formerly housed in the old Dairyū-ji. With the exception of 18 strongly carved figures in the natural wood, ascribed to Tametaka (a modern artist), all are about 2½ ft. high, are painted in painfully lurid colors, and are said to be upward of 250 yrs. old. The 16 statuettes called Jū-roku zenji, or the 'Sixteen Buddhist Priests,' are considerably older than the rest and are attributed to some unknown sculptor of the 12th cent. The Gods of the Four Directions were given to the temple by the 3d Tokugawa shogun. The 500 shabby, unwashed figures are ranged about the temple on several tiers; the variety of features and expressions is remarkable. The Japanese say that 'a little careful searching will enable any man to find the likeness of his father.' The traveler with any pride of race will accept this dictum with mental reserve, for a coarser, more degraded lot of ugly faces could scarcely be found in any rogues' gallery. All Eastern nationalities appear to be represented, and there are not two faces or attitudes alike. Some are portrayed laughing; others weeping; some leer and look unutterably stupid; one figure has deeply set eyes, an aquiline nose, and thin lips; another a pug nose, squinting eyes, and a broad, grinning mouth. Some ride astride animals and birds; others have halos, one eye, a hook nose, or three eyes. Idiots with drooping heads and hanging lower lips look out with fishy eyes, and maniacs glint hatred at one, from cunning eyes that make one shiver. Nearly all the figures look the worse for drink, and the admission fee of 10 sen fixes correctly their artistic value. — The chief treasure of the temple is what purports to be one of Buddha's bones, presented in 1902 by the King of Siam to the Emperor of Japan.

The Potteries of Seto, in Seto town, Kasugai district, province of Owari, lie about 12 M. N.E. of Nagoya, and are reached by the tram-cars which run at frequent intervals from the Honmachi gomon (or Seto) Station near the castle. The traveler interested in Ceramics may inspect the process of manu-

facture throughout, but if he be pressed for time he may see practically the same work in certain of the Kyoto potteries. The wares now made at Seto (5000 men employed) are known to the trade as Seto mono, a name that has gradually come to mean earthenware or porcelain. The first pottery was established by Kato Shirozaemon (comp. p. cclii), one of the first masters of Japanese Ceramic art, in the 13th cent. The district is one of the most important in Japan, with a School of Ceramics and a Pottery Museum, the latter of interest to porcelainists. The Seto porcelain, which is of a more glassy nature than Arita ware, less tough and more easily broken, covers a wide range and includes almost every variety of article for household use. There is a charming variety of glazes, and the best pieces, usually much prized by the natives, are bought for the home markets. Fine Seto mono is made of practically the same ingredients (kaolin, gray-white feldspar of granite, blue-white quartz, etc.) as the Kiyomizu-yaki (see p. cclvi), and they can scarcely be distinguished one from the other.