湯元から金精峠を経て伊香保へ

16. From Yumoto via the Konsei Pass to Ikao.

51 M. Impracticable for jinriki or horse. The traveler will do well to start in the early morning, when fresh, as the humid heat of the forest in mid-morning is wearisome. The trail up to the pass (4 M.; 2½ hrs. should be allowed) is tree-strewn, blind in places, and apt to be washed out, and as it is easy to lose, a guide (the only stretch where one is necessary) should be employed. It is practically impassable from early Nov. to late March, and should not be attempted.

While some travelers engage a guide (¥4 a day and expenses) at Nikko for the entire journey, an economically disposed and self-reliant pedestrian

can save considerable by hiring a pack-coolie (who acts as guide) at Yumoto (¥1.50 is ample) and sending him back from (11 M. down-grade from the pass) Higashi Ogawa. During the summer months certain fish-peddlers (bright-eyed, happy boys) come over the pass from the lakes beyond, and after disposing of their fish in Yumoto, return empty-handed. They are usually very willing to earn a trifle by carrying a traveler's pack, and they will be found even cheaper than a regular coolie. A jinriki or a coolie can always be had from Higashi Ogawa to Numata, whence a tramway runs to Shibukawa and connects with that to Ikao. Before leaving Yumoto, question the hotel manager about the state of the roads.

The Konsei-toge is visible at the N.W. of Yumoto. At the left stands a craggy peak known as Mae- (front) Shirane, over which one must climb to make the ascent (8800 ft.; 5 hrs.; 8 hrs. for the roughish round trip; guide necessary) of Shirane-san, the recently active volcano behind and beyond it. — The road leads up the main st., behind the hotel, then crosses a sedgy marsh to a rising slope where delicious wild strawberries (ichigo) ripen in July. It soon enters a forest of giant pines, firs, and bamboos which arch above rock-strewn gulches and a wild tangle of huge boulders and blasted trees that have been uprooted and whirled down the mt. side during the annual floods. Occasionally the trail traverses primeval glades frequented by bears in winter. The trail to Mae-Shirane branches off at the left before the foot of the pass (1 hr. out of Yumoto) is reached. After crossing a dry river-bed presenting a scene of the wildest desolation, the trail goes up stiffly; the last mile is the most difficult. The deserted shrine in a secluded spot in the forest at the right of the trail was formerly dedicated to phallic worship. The view from the actual saddle (6770 ft.) is inferior to the splendid panorama (one of the finest in N. Japan) obtainable from a higher ledge (10 min. scramble) reached by a half-hidden trail along the ridge at the left. Here a magnificent view unfolds itself. A glorious retrospective vista is had of Yumoto and its dimpling lake; the battlefield of Senjo-ga-hara; Nantai-zan; Lake Chuzenji, and many stretches of the road traveled on the upward trip. At the W., thousands of square miles of tumbled mountains and rich valley-land stretch to a blue horizon; while below lie three lovely blue-green lakes (Suganuma, 5820 ft.; Marunuma, 4790 ft.; and Ojirinuma, 4785 ft.) sheltered in the bosom of the quiet hills, and with polished surfaces that reflect every color that tints their sides. The forest solitude is broken only by the occasional scream of an eagle, or the shrill skirl of some defiant, high-circling hawk. The sky-piercing cone of Shirane-san shoots up at the left, while at many points on the wooded slopes great blotches of pinkish-white color detach themselves from the surrounding green and advertise the presence of the gorgeous Rhododendron maximum (shakunage). — Retracing our steps to the actual pass, we begin the long zigzag descent over an excellent road to (about 50 min.) Suganuma, or Shimizu (good fishing). The lakes are usually left at the right, but the pedestrian

with time to spare, and who wishes to see more of them, can follow the trail around their upper borders. The region is lonely but grand (and safe), and it reminds one strongly of certain solitary stretches in Maine and Upper Canada. Deer, bear, and minor game may be met with at any time. The night can be spent at Higashi Ogawa (2300 ft.), but before agreeing to lodge in a room at the Miyoshi-ya Inn, one should ask the price of everything. Beyond this point the valley is cultivated and thickly settled. Near (9 M.) Okkai, a tributary of the Katashina-gawa races between steep porphyritic walls and forms numerous cascades. From the top of the Kuryu Pass the glorious view includes Haruna-san, Asama-yama, and numerous other peaks. Beyond the nondescript town of (5 M.) Takahira the road takes on a dull aspect, and as jinrikis are available, one may wish to ride the remaining 5½ M. to Numata (Inn: Marusugi, ¥2.50), on an upland plain overlooking the valleys of the Katashina and the Tone Rivers. The tram-cars (frequent intervals) which run hence to (11 M.) Shibukawa traverse the valley of the Tone-gawa. Ikao is mentioned in Rte. 7, p. 85.