東京

Railway Stations. Transportation. Tourist Bureaus. Hotels.

Restaurants. Shops.

Railway Stations. All trains entering Tokyo stop at (or pass through) the great Central Station (Chuo Suteishon; pronounced chew-oh'-soo-tai-shun; described hereinafter), in Marunouchi, Kojimachi-ku (Pl. F, 6). As Yokohama is the seaport for Tokyo, tourists usually approach the capital from this angle. Some board the steam trains that leave from the Yokohama Union Station; others the more frequent electric trains running out (about every 8 min.) from the Sakuragicho Station (referred to under Yokohama). Travelers aboard these trains bound for the Tsukiji section of Tokyo (p. 232; Pl. F, 7) can save time and taxi fares by descending at the (big, commodious) Shimbashi Station (Tokyo, Pl. E, 7). Those bound for the Imperial Hotel can save a little distance by descending at the Yurakucho Station (Pl. E, 6—not advisable with luggage).

In addition to the hundreds of trains which daily arrive and depart from the Central Station, there is an interurban, transversal electric car line (part surface, part elevated) operated by, and in conjunction with, the Imperial Gov't lines, which crosses and half circles the metropolis, and provides good, frequent, cheap and speedy communications every few- minutes with many suburban places.

The Baggage Room is conducted on American practice. By giving checks to the hotel runner, baggage will be promptly and satisfactorily delivered. Trunks can be stored and insured at the Imperial Hotel Storerooms. Baggage Insurance is issued by the Japan Tourist Bureau.

Transportation. Taxicabs (taxis, or noriai jidosha ) are almost as numerous as in New York. American cars are used, and fares (which are cheaper than in the U.S.) are recorded by meters as in the U.S.

Hotel Cars (Imperial Hotel and others) meet express trains. The former sends its luxurious cars as far as the Yokohama Docks to meet incoming ships and bring travelers promptly and safely to the hospitable hotel doors. By telephoning ahead one can always be met by a hotel car. Low rates. Excellent service.

Note that when driving a car the Rule of the Road in Japan is to the left. The fleet of Motor-Busses (many with women conductors) which center at, or pass the Central Station, are not always the most convenient for strangers, who may not speak the language or know the different points of the city. An exception is

The Mitsukoshi Motor-Bus (see Tokyo Shops), a red bus with 3 horizontal stripes on the side, which starts (at frequent intervals) from a point near the Station entrance and carries customers (free) between the station and the store. Willing, careful, courteous drivers. After inspecting the great store (which stocks many things and is of unfailing interest to travelers—who should ask for Mr. Antoku Takehara, the English-speaking guide, courteous, willing, tireless, whom the generous-minded management has appointed for the sole purpose of conducting strangers over the store; fees unnecessary; no obligation to buy) the traveler will, on emerging from the front entrance, find himself facing the busy prolongation of the Ginza, with Nihonbashi, the Ginza, the Christian Literature Society (formerly Methodist Publishing House; or Kyo-bun-kwan; English and American books, magazines, etc.), Mikimoto's fascinating Pearl Store, Shimbashi Station, Tsukiji, etc., on the right; and Uyeno Park, Asakusa and other places on the (far) left.

Jinrikis ply for hire but are fast being ousted by the quicker and more satisfactory motor-cars. Rates are unstable, and it is always advisable to ask the man what he is going to charge for a desired service. Where there are several in a party a taxi will be found to be cheaper.

Electric Street Cars (densha) traverse the city in all directions and are cheap, convenient, and rapid aids to getting about. Many foreigners use them. The stranger rarely has any serious trouble in finding a place, as the people are kind and helpful, and the car conductors make it a point to aid strangers.

The Elevated Railway Line ( koka tetsudo) offers the best, quickest, and cheapest means of reaching many of the suburban towns. Time cards at the Japan Tourist Bureau.

Hotels. TOKYO'

Subways (chika tetsudo) are being constructed in several places in the capital, and in some quarters are in operation. The popular line between Uyeno Park Station and Asakusa was opened to traffic Jan. 1, 1928. Though cruder than American subways, they are well managed and reliable.

Information Bureaus. The Head Office of the admirable, widely known (offices in many parts of the world), ably-managed Japan Tourist Bureau is in the Central Station (ground floor, near main entrance) and is of peculiar value to the traveler. Here visiting strangers always find a warm welcome* Many have their letters addressed in the Bureau's care, seek its advice in planning trips through the Empire, in securing hotel accommodations, arranging for motor-cars, etc. The desirable booklets issued (free) by the Bureau, and the equally excellent maps (sold at the exact cost of printing) are of unfailing use and interest to travelers.

Strangers should never hesitate to use this unqualifiedly excellent service. (cheerfully provided; no tips), which is maintained by the Imperial Japanese Government Railways, several great Steamship Lines, and other organizations desirous of assisting the tourist in Japan and the Far East. The Bureau has a Branch Office in the Imperial Hotel Arcade and in most of the chief cities of the Empire. As it is not a money making institution, travelers can always buy their railway, steamship, and other tickets here at no advance in prices. The Bureau is also valuable for its willingness to secure for travelers cards of admission to various places, translate Japanese letters, send telegrams in Japanese, and to make itself useful in other ways.

Hotels. Comfortable modern hotels adapted to foreign requirements, under the direction of English-speaking Japanese familiar with American and European hotels and their methods, and equipped with reading-rooms with foreign newspapers and magazines, steam heat, electric lights, hot and cold running water, garages with autos, etc., are now features of Tokyo and more are under construction to cater to the thousands of travelers who annually visit the metropolis. Excellent food served in foreign style, good and willing service and many unexpected comforts characterize them, while the rates (on application) are lower than those of American hotels.

* Imperial Hotel ( Teikoku: Telegraphic address: ' Impeho, Tokyo') a super- excellent establishment (one of the best known and liked hotels in the Far East) in the heart of the most attractive section (Marunouchi, Kojimachi-ku, PI. F, 6) of the Japanese Capital, overlooking the extensive and charming Hibiya Park (good air, delightful walks; an ideal playground for children) near the Imperial Palace grounds, the foreign embassies, legations, business houses; the best theatres, banks, the railway stations (10 min. to the Central Station; 5 min. to Shimbashi and Yuraku-cho stations), steamship offices, the best shops, etc. The chosen rendezvous of the social, diplomatic, and touristic life of the capital. A famous meeting-place for the ever-moving tides of travel that swirl around the world.

The Imperial is known far and wide for the excellence of its unique appointments, its good food, perfect service, and for its many comforts and refinements. Its outstanding features are: 300 handsomely furnished bedrooms (accommodations for 500 persons) with private baths; a main diningroom with a seating capacity of 400; fine grill-rooms; 15 private diningrooms; a magnificent banquet-hall that will seat 1000 persons; a unique auditorium; a private theatre; a spacious lobby with open fireplaces; a library and reading-room with English, American and European books, magazines and newspapers; an attractive roof-garden with dining-room (dances; fine views; a delight in summer); an exceptionally fine orchestra (music at meals and at other times); an American bar, beauty-shop, barbershop, a branch post-office, etc.

Being thoroughly modern the Imperial is equipped with telephones (in every room), has safety deposit boxes in the office, provides a stenographic service, is electrically lighted and heated, has many quiet nooks and lounging places, and an inner garden, after the Japanese manner, with lotus pools, etc.

In the extensive wine cellars are choice liquors valued at a quarter of a million dollars. The private laundry, and the hotel valsts do excellent work at moderate prices. Sumptuous dances are frequently held in the hotel, along with gorgeous banquets, private theatricals, etc. #

The Hotel ManagementMr. T. Inumaru, Manager; Mr. Taunekichi

Imperial Hotel

Otsukn, assistant manager) has had a wide experience in the management of hotels and knows how to cater to the wants of foreigners. 'Service' is the hotel motto, and it is lived up to. The Tokyo Kaikan, best among the famous restaurants of the capital, and referred to hereinafter, is under the Imperial Hotel management.

The Imperial Hotel Rates (European Plan only) are: for a typical single room with private bath 12 yen per day; double room with twin beds and bath, 16 yen. A few single and double rooms, with and without baths, at slightly lower prices. A few very large single and double rooms with baths are slightly higher in price. A few suites (large double bedroom, bath, and sitting-room) range from 22 to 30 yen per day.

Meals are served in both the Main Dining-Room and the Grill-Room. In the Main Dining-Room breakfast is served « la carte, and tiffin and dinner table d'hOte at 3 yen and 3.50 respectively. In the Grill-Room there is an & la carte service from 9.30 a.m. to 11 p.m. (only cold dishes after 10 f.m.). Music by a capable orchestra in the hotel lobby daily from 4 to 6 p.m. (during afternoon tea), and from 6.30 to 9 p.m. (during dinner). Dancing, etc.

The Imperial Hotel Kitchen is a sort of electrical laboratory (electric ranges, ice-making plant, scientific apparatus for distilling the drinking water, etc.) where skilled chefs evolve dishes as dainty and as appetizing as one will find anywhere. It is said that the architect planned the kitchen and built the hotel around it. From it 3000 persons can be fed immediately and satisfactorily. The food is a blend of American and European, with a spice of Japanese that appeals instantly and permanently to the American palate. A feature is the big fish tank where fish are kept alive until needed for the table.

The Hotel Motor-Bus meets express trains arriving at the Central Station, and ships that arrive at Yokohama, to carry passengers to the hotel. The hotel has a fleet of good motor-cars for the convenience of guests for sight-seeing, country and other trips. Moderate charges.

The Japan Tourist Bureau has a branch office in the hotel, on the lower floor of which space has been given to some of the best known among the Tokyo curio and other dealers, to display their wares to guests.

The Pan Pacific, The Rotary, and other Clubs, with the Japan- America and other societies, hold their meetings and banquets at the Imperial Hotel, which during its brief existence has sheltered many distinguished guests, among them the Prince of Wales and other world-known characters.

Other Tokyo hotels are: The * Tokyo Station Hotel (Tel. add. ' Staho Tokyo'), in the Tokyo Central Station, Marunouchi, within 3 min. walk of the financial section, the Castle, the big steamship offices, etc. Under the able management of the Seiyoken Hotel Co. (which has a hotel in Uyeno Park and several excellent restaurants in other parts of the capital). Big, airy, well-f urn ished rooms. Good service. Excellent food. English spoken. Rooms only, from 5 yen and up. With meals from 11 yen. Write for descriptive booklet, etc. Member of the Japan Hotel Association.

* Marunouchi Hotel, in YeLraku-cho, Kojimachi-ku, near the Central Station. Under the same management as the excellent Mampei Hotel, at Atami, and Karuizawa. A big, new, modern, well -equipped, American- etyle hotel with good rooms, service, and food. Moderate rates. Well epoken of. Member of the Japan Hotel Association.

Restaurants abound in Tokyo but they are rarely as satisfactory as the hotel dining-rooms. Perhaps the most popular (with Japanese and foreigners alike) of the best-known Tokyo Restaurants is the Kaikan, next door to the Imperial Theatre (connected thereto by a short subway) and not far from the Imperial Hotel, under whose able management it is. The stranger should not fail to dine here at least once, in the Japanese fashion, on xukiyaki (see below), of which delectable native dish it makes a specialty, and for which it is celebrated. The Imperial Hotel management will make the necessary arrangements. In addition to enjoying a satisfying repast amid delightful surroundings, one is apt to have the unexpected opportunity of witnessing a picturesque native wedding (it being a popular custom in Japan to be married in these high-class restaurants, where there is always a beauty parlor for the bride's adornment, a shrine, an officiating priest, etc.) and a wedding feast. Such a ceremony among aristocratic Japanese usually is marked by costuming of a gorgeousness unknown in the West.

Restaurants.

Sukiyaki (pronounced skee-yah'-key) customarily is prepared by the host, who, with his guests, squat round a small electric brazier brought to a private room floored with soft matting and bright with flowers. Slices of red meat (beef), onions, leeks, bamboo-shoots, mushrooms, bean-curd and various seasoning vegetables, along with skoyu sauce are placed in the hot dish where a good soup stock is already sizzling. When all is cooked (a question of a few minutes) it is served with a raw egg. in a dainty lacquered bowl, and eaten with chopsticks (o-hashi — spoons are available). Hot boiled rice (with which it often is mixed) is served in another bowl, and in yet another, pickled cucumbers, bits of pickled cabbage and other native dainties. Warmed sake from tiny cups punctuate the mouthfuls. To eat sukiyaki once is always to want it. It is filling and satisfying. Many Sukiyaki restaurants are found throughout Japan. Every city has one or more.

From the front windows of the Tokyo Kaikan (which resembles a luxurious club; contains many banquet-halls and private dining-rooms where both Japanese and foreign food are served, and where 4000 persons can dine at one time) one commands a charming view over the old moat to the distant palace grounds.

The midday luncheons served in the native style in the picturesque cafe of the Mitsukoshi Department Store are dainty, appetizing, and cheap (as they are supplied at a trifle above their cost, as a service to patrons of the store). Here one will be surprised at the excellence of the coffee, the cocoa, the ice cream and the apple-pie American style! The charming Japanese maids w'ho serve one refuse tips (which the store management forbids). Ask for Mr. Antoku Takehara, a polite and helpful gentleman whose stand is near the side entrance to the store, and whose pleasure is to conduct foreign visitors over it. Free and willing service.

The Inns of Tokyo cater chiefly to the wants of Japanese. Although some have assumed the name 'hotel,' they are not patronized much by foreigners.

The foreigner who might be tempted to lodge at a native inn so as thus to get a taste of Japanese life, may like to remember that the average Inn contains no furniture suited to foreign needs; no raised beds, chairs, chiffonniers, washing appliances in the rooms; no satisfactory heating apparatus, and no central dining-room. The ' help ' rarely speaks English, and the stranger would find himself paying for an uncomfortable experience. Furthermore, he should be reminded that devastating fires frequently sweep those sections of the metropolis where native inns are most likely to be situated, and the dry, frame houses burn so quickly and completely that heavy trunks such as customarily accompany American travelers would have little chance of being saved.

Shops (comp. p. cxii). Tokyo is headquarters for certain specialties that can be bought perhaps to better advantage there than elsewhere, f onspiou- ous among them culture pearls, carved ivories, silver work, wireless cloisonne, cheap grades of lacquer, porcelains, etc. While the best and most celebrated silk weaving mills are in Kyoto, some of their finest products are made specially for the Tokyo market, and are to be found in attractive profusion at certain of the stores.

A few years ago one had to search the small shops for desirable things, but the rapid development of the department store idea has resulted in the assembling under one roof of a host of things which formerly one had to spend much time and energy to find. Mikimoto's famous Pearl Store, on the Ginza, is now devoted exclusively to beautiful pearl and other jewelry, while in the great Mitsukoshi Department Store one finds a bewildering assortment of many of the charming things for which Japan is noted — gorgeous silks and brocades made up or in the piece; lacquer-wares, porcelains, silver, and a list of art objects too long to itemize. As English is spoken in both of these stores, and as prices are fixed and are not deviated from (thus saving the tourist the disagreeable task of haggling in order to get the right price), it is materially to the advantage of the stranger (particularly if he hasn't a fair idea of values) to make his purchases of them. To both of these internationally celebrated stores comes the finest flower of the Japanese aristocracy (as well as the picturesque proletariat), and perhaps in no places in Tokyo can Japanese life and manners be studied to better advantage.

While the following list does not exhaust the number of Tokyo shops, it

Shops -

will no doubt fill the tourists requirements. It has been compiled with care and with the aim of securing for the stranger fair treatment and right prices. The establishments listed rank high and are unreservedly recommended.

The Mikimoto Pearl & Jewelry Store, K. Mikimoto, 3 Ginza Shichome (Pl. E-F, 7). Culture Pearls at prices lower than those of the United States or Europe. Real pearls, fine diamond and other jewelry in quaint and original designs, made by skilled native craftsmen. Native pearls obtained by the unique and ingenious method described at pages cxix to cxxi are here sorted, mounted or strung, and here the inquiring traveler may inspect the different formative processes of natural pearls in the making. Pearl lovers can select gems from an unusual quantity to match others or to have them set according to individual taste and ideas. Because of their undeniable beauty, their moderate cost and their value and portability, Mikimoto pearls are among the most desirable souvenirs one can carry away from Japan. The Mikimoto name is an unquestioned guarantee of excellence and fair dealing.

The Mitsukoshi Department Store, 6 to 8 Suruga-cho (a prolongation westward of the Ginza; see the PI. F, 0), with many departments. English spoken. Greatest modern store of its kind in the Far East. Branch stores in Osaka, Kobe and other cities. American, European, and Japanese articles in wide variety, at fixed prices.

Silks, Brocades, Embroideries, Kimonos, haori-coats, obis, shawls, tapestries, fans, dolls, silk underthings, etc. The best-dressed women of the capital buy their wearing apparel here. See the Special Note under Kobe. Other Mitsukoshi specialties are

Silver work, lacquer, porcelains, and many Japanese art objects.

American drugstore specialties (shaving soaps, creams, listerine, tooth pastes, and a full line of similar things).

Cigars, Cigarettes (imported and native), pipes, tobaccos, etc.

Hats, shoes (American, English), traveling-outfits and requirements.

Deijcai essen Department (American & English biscuits, crackers, jams, candies, tinned milk and other things).

The Shirt & Dressmaking Department makes to order quickly and satisfactorily anything in the line of silk and other fabrics.

Beauty Parlor, Ladies' Barber Shop, and beauty aids in wide variety. Fine imported (American, French) perfumes.

Restaurant where American coffee, apple-pie, doughnuts, cookies, ice cream and many American specialties are served at moderate prices. Many native dishes. No tips allowed.

Photo Studio. Bird Store. Fruit Store. Flower Shop. Mechanical Toys.

The Mitsukoshi Department Stoke is unique in several ways. The highly progressive English-speaking Managing Director and General Manager (Mr. K. Kitada) lias, by visiting and studying the great department stores of America and England, skilfully adapted their best practices to a Japanese environment, with a result that pleases the foreigner and amazes the Japanese. At all times throngs of picturesque natives who display all the range of color and costume, wander through the store, and make of it a sight the westerner will not wish to omit. At nearly every season some special attraction is staged to please the populace, whence the remark that the store 'is a reduced map of Japan!'

At the time of the Annual Doll Festival (usually in Feb.) an elaborate and spectacular display of dolls, many of them wonderfully dressed in conventional, brilliant court, and other costumes (some of them worth as much as ¥3,000) are displayed, to the delight of thousands of children (and not a few grown-ups) who come from all over to see it. At other times there are displays of valuable Japanese paintings, collections of valuable art objects, etc. There is a private theater with a seating capacity of 700 where patrons may see (free) moving pictures, plays, dances; hear lectures, and good music. To the ladies' barber shop come prospective Japanese brides, clad in wondrous garments, to be coiffed and dolled preparatory to the wedding.

There is a special hospital for the 3300 employees, and no one ill, or even with a cold, is permitted to serve customers. There is special machinery for testing the vitality of the air in the store, and for changing it frequently. In the scientific laboratory on the roof, cloths and other things sold in the. store are tested for tensile strength, for the fading quality of their colors, for

Shops.

any poisonous ingredients in these (paints on porcelains, lacquers, etc.) and for general excellence. Cheap goods are rejected.

Note: The Mitsukoshi Department Store serves as a good orientation point for the stranger. The free Bus Service from the Central Station is mentioned at p. 110. Returning to the store, one proceeds to the Delicatessen Department, thence to the (near-by) side door from which the bus starts back to the station.

The Silk Store of S. Nishimura & Co., 10 Yamashitacho, Kyobashi-ku (PI. E. 6), is a branch of the famous house at Kyoto. Full line of silk goods including kimonos, haoris, obis, shawls, etc.

Booksellers. American, English, French, German, etc., books, magazines, etc. Christian Literature Society of Japan (the Kyo-bun-kwan), successors to the Methodist Publishing House. Main salesroom and office, 1 Ginza, 4-chome. Branches in various sections of the capital. Agents for Terry's Guidebooks, Chamberlain's Things Japanese, The Japan Year Book, and many books of special interest to travelers. Postcards. Stationery. Publishing Agents for the Asiatic Society of Japan. — Maruzen, Tori ichome (a prolongation of the Ginza, near the Nihonbashi). Also with a big line of foreign books, etc. — Takahashi, in the Imperial Hotel.

Typewriters and supplies. Christian Literature Society as above.

Photographs of Japanese Life, postcards, etc. The best assortment of these is displayed by H. Suito 34 Hitotsugi-Machi, Akasaka. On sale in the branch office of the Japan Tourist Bureau, in the Imperial Hotel. Correspondents who desire photographs to illustrate articles on Japanese subjects will do well to get in touch with Mr. Suito. Speaks English. Charges moderate. The Imperial Hotel clerk will telephone for him.

Curios, Antiques and various art objects are displayed in the numerous shops in the arcade of the Imperial Hotel.

Post & Telegraph Offices. Telephones. Steamship Offices. Banks.

Embassies & Legations. Clubs. Churches, physicians & Dentists.

Post & Telegraphic Offices are located in various parts of the city. The Branch Post Office in the Imperial Hotel customarily is the most useful to travelers. The Main Office of the Japan Wireless Telegraph Co. (see the special reference under Telegraph) is in the Jiji Building, in Marunouchi, overlooking the Imperial Palace Grounds, not far from, the Imperial Hotel. The traveler is recommended to mark all radiograms for America, Europe, and other foreign countries Via IWA (since the company mentioned is a quasi-governmental organization and is favorably known to experienced travelers for its speed and accuracy).

Telephones (see the special reference under Telephones) are widely used in Tokyo. Booths in many places. The traveler can always get the hotel clerk or some one in the Japan Tourist Bureau to call the desired number or translate message into Japanese.

Steamship Offices. The Nippon Yusen Kaisha head offices are in the superb Yusen Building, in Yeirakucho, Marunouchi. Telephones: Marunouchi 2511, 2521. English spoken in all departments. For the office addresses of the other companies consult the local directory.

Banks where Travelers' Cheques, Letters-of-Credit, Drafts, etc., can be cashed, money exchanged (see Exchange), etc. Among the hundreds of Tokyo banks, a very few of the best only are used by foreigners. Prominent among these are:

American Banks: National City Bank of New York (successors to the International Banking Corporation; branches in many cities of the Far East) Yaesucho Marunouchi, Kojimachi-ku (PI. F, 6). Widely and favorably known and liked. Headquarters for Americans. Recommended.

Japanese Banks: Yokohama Specie Bank, Ltd., in Honryogaye-cho, Nihonbashi-ku (PI. G, 6). One of the best, strongest, widest known and liked among the native institutions. Branches in many of the chief cities of the world (including New York). Headquarters at Yokohama. English spoken. Recommended. — For the addresses of the Bank of Japan, the Mitsui, the Mitsubishi, and other banks, consult the Telephone Directory. The great Bank of Taiwan (Formosa) has a branch in Tokyo (PI. F, 6).

Embassies and Legations. Ambassadors or Ministers are accredited to the Japanese Government from most of the foreign powers of note, and

Doctors — Dentists

with few exceptions the embassies and legations cluster near the Imperial Palace, in Kojimachi-ku, or in the contiguous wards at the west and south. Constantly changing conditions and new construction render it so difficult to give permanent street addresses that the user of the guidebook is recommended to consult the local directory, or the hotel manager, for information on the subject.

Consulates will be found in all the chief ports.

Clubs. There arc a number of famous clubs in Tokyo, but as some of them are at present occupying temporary quarters, the traveler is advised to look up their addresses in the local directory. The Tokyo Rotary Club, the Pan-Pacific Club, the Japan-America Society, and others hold their meetings at the Imperial Hotel.

Churches of many nationalities and creeds exist in Tokyo. Many were destroyed by the fire that followed the 'quake of 1923, and are in process of rebuilding. The Hotel Manager will have a list of the different churches, their pastors, hours of service, etc. The traveler desirous of obtaining more detailed information about the different denominations is recommended to ask at the Christian Literature Society of Japan (formerly the Methodist Publishing House), 1 Ginza, 4-chome.

Physicians & Dentists. Travelers needing the services of a physician are recommended to seek the advice of a friend (regarding ability, fees, etc.) or the hotel manager, where practicable, before employing such. Many of the Japanese doctors are extraordinarily skilful, beside possessing an intimate knowledge of the whimsies of local maladies. The writer knows from personal experience that Dr. L. E. Butler (whose office is on the 7th floor of the Marunouchi Building), is a skilled American Dentist (graduate of a famous American Dental College) who does excellent work at moderate prices, and who is widely known to, and warmly recommended by, American residents. Usually very busy. Appointment necessary.

The Climate is referred to at p. lxvi. The temperature ranges from about 90° F. in Aug. (78° in May; 80° in June) to 28° (very thin ice) in late Jan. and early Feb. The season of greatest cold (climate variable) is supposed to set in Jan. 21 and end Feb. 7. During this short period the cold rains and snows are apt to be raw. The violent dust-storms which in March usually follow a dry spell are disagreeable. Winds are to Tokyo what fogs are to London. The former possess the advantage of being propitious for kite-flying, and of rendering unfrequcnt the yunagi, or 'evening calm,' which is such a sultry feature of points in W. Japan. The average number of rainy days is 140. Nov., Dec., and the first 3 weeks in Jan. are sometimes fine and crisp, with many clear days. The temperature throughout the year is not afflictive to foreigners accustomed to life in the Temperate Zone, but the long summer days are trying. Typhoons sometimes do considerable damage m Aug.-Sept.

Theaters.

The Drinking Water comes to the capital from various sources; wells, rivers (see p. 132), etc. While it is believed to be good, unimmune tourists easily affected by mineral traces in strange water will be on the safe side to drink it only after it has been boiled. A yet safer plan is to drink some well-known bottled spring water. The Clifford Wilkinson Tansan Water (referred to m detail at page 629) undoubtedly is the best among these, with the added advantages of being unusually pure and palatable. It can be had 'still' or 'charged.' The Tansan Ginger Ale will make an instant appeal to the American palate. As the Wilkinson Tansan products are widely copied and counterfeited, the traveler should see that the label on the bottle carries the name.

Theaters. Festivals and Flower Displays.

Theaters ( Gekijo ) abound in Tokyo. Some of them are excellent and are constructed in western style on a magnificent scale. The people love the drama, spectacular plays, thrilling movies, and good farces, and to them the theater is as much a diversion as it is in the U.S. As a rule functions are longer, and comprise one play or a number of short ones (like the Spanish tanda or turn). Sometimes they begin early in the afternoon and last until about 10 p.m. The entire family goes and takes luncheon or dinner along, to eat during the long intermissions. Usually there is a good restaurant (American style) in the best theaters, or one next door connected by a subway. If there is a turn the spectator does not care for, he repairs to the restaurant, dines leisurely, and returns to his seat. The admission fee (kidosen) includes all the play or plays, and there is no rebate if one leaves before the end. This ranges (in the best theaters) from one yen in the galleries (uzura; sajika), where one squats on the floor to 8 yen in the orchestra, where there are cnairs (obligatory m all new theaters) like those in American theaters. These seats are called doma. Rows are retsu. The front, or 4 bald-headed' row is agokake (chin hanging).

The lateral aisles which project from the stage ( butai ) are called Hon (permanent) Hanamichi (flowery way), and Kari (temporary) Hanamichi. The actors (; yakusha ) and actresses l onnar-yakusha ) approach or leave the stage by them. The stage often rests on- rollers, like a rly. turntable, and when a new scene is wanted it is turned round with the scenery and actors in position* The latter often speak their parts in strained, throaty, apoplectic voices; at other times they posture ana make pantomimic gestures which are interpreted by the chorus accompanied by samisen. Certain of the historical dramas ( jidaimono ) can be enjoyed as much through the eye as through the ear, hence a knowledge of the language is not a great drawback. The best theaters print a synopsis of the play m English for distribution to patrons. No tips are allowed.

Festivals.

One of the newest, finest and best liked among the metropolitan theaters is the magnificent (inside and out) Kabuki-zain Tsukiji (PI. F, 7), completed in 1925 at a cost of 2,700,000 yen. The temple-like exterior is artistic and attractive. The interior will remind travelers of a Spanish Theater (an example of which is the Tedtro Nadonal at Havana). From the pit, or orchestra, rise horse-shoe shaped tiers of balconies divided into small boxes without chairs (as many Japanese are more comfortable in a kneeling posture). The interior is splendidly lighted, and the scene, when full of handsomely apparelled, picturesque humanity, a brilliant one. The great pit measures 100 by 120 ft., and will seat 4,000 persons. The stage is 69 ft. long and looks about twice as large as any American stage. The decorations recall the finest artistic motifs of old Japan; the comforts those of the best American theater. The able management makes a special effort to please foreigners as well as Japanese. The actors and actresses are the best and highest paid in Japan. In the old plays men impersonate women. In the new (so-called mobo) plays men and women act together.

If, through the kind offices of some Japanese friend, the traveler can be taken behind the scenes, down beneath the stage and through the maze of dressing-rooms, and there be permitted to watch the actors and actresses make up and prepare for their parts, he will not forget the experience. Some of the costumes are of a gorgeousness undreamed-of in the West.

Other well-known theaters are the Imperial, the Hogakuza, etc. See the newspapers or advertisements.

The best book on the Japanese Stage is Kabuki, The Popular Stage of Japanf by Zoe Kincaid (Mrs. John Penlington, of Tokyo). Printed in 1925 by Macmillan & Co., London and New York. Recommended.

Festivals and Flower Displays. The festivals ( matsuri, etc.) of greatest interest to travelers are usually associated with floral displays. The Japanese, from the highest to the lowest, have a genuine passion for flowershana ), and flower-markets (hamdchi) — held customarily after twilight, to the accompaniment of colored lanterns and pine torches — are conspicuous features of the capital. At certain seasons, thousands of gayly clad folks repair to spots where flowers abound to there take undisguised pleasure in their contemplation C hanami ),

The official list of national holidays is: Jan. 3 and 5 (New Year Holiday); Feb. 11 ( Kigensetsu, or anniversary of the accession of Jimmu Tenno the 1st Mikado) j April 3 (anniversary of Jimmu Tenno's death); April 21 (spring festival); July 30 (death of Meiji Emperor ); Sept. 23 (autumn festival); Oct. 17 (harvest festival); Oct 31 (Emperor's birthday — born Aug. 31; see p. cl); Nov. 23 (offering of the first rice to the Gods). There are numerous other bank, and minor holiday

Festivals..

Houses are decorated at New Year with branches of young pine trees called kado-matsu ('pine of the doorway'), typifying longevity; and lithe bamboos (symbolic of uprightness); both planted at either side of the vestibule. A rope of rice-straw ( shimenawa ) similar to the one supposed to have been stretched across the entrance to the cave of the Sun Goddess, is suspended across the boughs or fastened to them as an indication of spring freshness. At the central point of the rope a lobster (ebi — 'which with its curved back and long tentacles is typical of life so prolonged that the back becomes bent and the beard grows to the waist '), some fern-fronds and puzuriha (laurel) leaves (suggestive of hardiness); a piece of charcoal to ward off evil influences; a dried persimmon (for its medicinal qualities); and a bit of dried bitter orange ( daidai ) symbolic of longevity, are placed — the whole being called ahimekazari. Two bamboo poles, usually painted with black rings and topped by brass balls and national flags, are crossed over the gateway. ' New Year calls are made, the visitor customarily carrying with him a "year jewel" (loshi-dama) in the form of a bundle of dried seaweed (hoshi-ncrri), a fan, a basket of oranges, a salted salmon, a towel, a box of sweetmeats or the like, always wrapped with scrupulous neatness and encircled by a cord with strands of red and gold or red and white, the ends joined in a "butterfly knot," under which is thrust a bit of haliotis (signifying durability of love) looking out from a quiver-shaped envelope. Black is the ill-omened hue among colors in Japan; red stands at the opposite end of the category, and red and gold constitute the richest combination, red and white being next in order of auspiciousness.'

The shops are closed and business is limited to the sale or purchase of 'treasure-snips' (takara-bune), toys typical of good fortune. Sweet sake and sweet bean paste ( yokan ) are hawked, through the streets, where many girls in bright costumes play battle-boardhago-ita) and shuttlecock. Kiteflying is popular among boys (huge kitesare flown at Hoshibana-mura, in the suburbs, on June 5th and 6th). The strings of the kites ( ehien ) arc often covered with powdered glass (a Hindu custom), and whosoever can sever that of his opponent wins his kite. Dances are often performed in the streets by fantastically apparaled actors with fans and drums, who go about from house to house. 'At the Palace and in the residences of noblemen, special dances are performed, and wherever a shrine stands in honor of Daikoku cakes of flour moistened with warm water are offered.' The Jan. observances are customarily referred to as hatsu ('new, fresh*). On New Year's Day many Tokyoites repair to Uyeno Park, Atago-yama, and other elevated sites to get the first sunrise view (hatsu hinode) of Fuji-san. The first merchandise delivered (hatsu ni ) by the merchants after the turn of the year is sent out in carts decorated with flags, evergreens, etc. The New Year festivities begin with the Shi hohai, or 'Worshiping of the Emperor.' The Genshihai, or * Worshiping of the Imperial Ancestors,' is performed on the •3d, which is also a big Buddhist holiday.

During the succeeding days there are many temple festivals; a popular indoor game in which the entire household joins is played with cards and is called karula (perhaps derived from the Spanish carlo). The festival of the Fire Brigade ( Dezomeshiki ), which falls on Jan. 6 and is celebrated at Hibiya Park (PI. E, 6), is usually of interest to travelers. Although cards of invitation are sent out, strangers are admitted without formality. Ropes are stretched round the esplanade, marquees are placed in position, and 10,000 or more persons assemble to witness the manoeuvres. At an early hour the clanging of the fire-bells is heard, engines from the different stations throughout the city foregather, and about 10 a.m. parade round the park. Medals, gifts, and 40 or more barrels of sake are distributed among the firemen, who, clad in the picturesque costumes of bygone times, join in a melodious chant called Kiyari-uta, usually sung by men when uniting their strength to pull heavy objects. After the exercises, amid a great fanfare of trumpets, 20 or more of the companies bring out long bamboo ladders which are held upright and on which expert tumblers perform astonishing acrobatic feats. A rescue race follows, a handsome young man dressed as a woman being rescued from a burning building, slid down a rope, and hurried to a hospital. In a succeeding rescue, dummies representing slow-witted yokels are dragged from a burning fire-trap.

Wrestling-Matches (p. clxvii) begin about Jan. 10. On the- 14th the

Flower Displays.

decorations of pine, bamboo, etc., are burned and replaced with willow wands split into flower-like forms and fixed to the eaves. 'The cremation of the pine saplings and their companions is intended to drive away the mountain demons (who hate the crackle and sputter of fire), and to invite the cheerful principle while expelling the sad.' All apprentices and servants are given a holiday on Jan. 16, and the temple parks, cheap theaters, etc., are crowded. On the night of the 20th, thinly clad men in white garments may be seen running through the streets, ringing bells and aiming for a well, from which they take cold water and pour over themselves, at midnight, to expel all sinfulness. Throughout the month the stranger will note undue animation in many parts of the city, particularly in the vicinity of temples.

The Flower Season begins with the blossoming of the Plum Trees (ume. — Prunus mume), the harbingers of spring. The blossoms usually burst about Feb. 15, and visits to the various gardens mark the beginning of the year's open-air fetes. The better class people usually repair to the Garden of 100 Flowers ( hyaku-ka-en ) beyond Mukojima (PI. J, 6; — rly. from Ryogoku station, or boat from Azuma-bashi landing). Though privately owned, the garden is open to the public, who make return by paying (about 25 sen per person) for the tea served. The plum garden near Kamcido (PI, J, 8) is of lesser interest. The rly. runs excursions to Mito (Rte. 17), whither many repair to see the blossoms. The Plum Gardens of Sugita near Yokohama are popular, as are also several gardens between that city and Tokyo, on the rly. The blossoms exhale their sweetest fragrance after nightfall; the round, pubescent fruit, resembling small, hard peaches, is sour, and is usually eaten salted or dried, under the name Ume-boshi. The bark of the dark reddish-brown wood yields a light-brown color called shira-cha.

The Peach (momo. — Amygdalus persica), one of the most popular and widely distributed stone-fruits in Japan, blossoms in March. When the flowers fall the embryonic fruit is protected from insects by individual paper bags — which also serve to keep it pale, and free from the ruddiness disliked by the Japanese. The bark produces the cha-iro, or tea-color. Many fine peach orchards flank the rly. line between Tokyo and Yokohama, and 8.W. of the latter port. The Girls' Doll Festival ( hma-asobi ) falls on March 3. On the 18th, the Buddhist paradise day ( higan ) is celebrated with great rejoicing at many of the city temples.

The Cherry ( sakura. — Prunus pseudocerasus) is the 2d great favorite of the year. The blossoms attain their finest achievement in early April, at which time Tokyo is a beautiful bower, and Uyeno Park (PI. I, 4) Hoahiga- oka (Pi. E, 5) and other places flame with the lovely pinkish blossoms. The wild, original trees (chosen emblems of the old warriors) grow extensively in the mt. forests of Japan and are called Y ama-sakura. From them a great number of varieties have been produced, some with blossoms a pale indigo; others yellow, etc. The double blossoms are lovely. The fruit is not pleasant to the taste. Nearly every city in Japan has parks or gardens filled with cherry trees. Those of Yoshino (Rte. 34) are celebrated. Mukojima, with its cherry blossoms, is mentioned at p.229; Koganai, in Rte. 25. The blooms last about one week; then the petals fall.

The Imperial Cherry Blossom Garden Party ( Kand-kwai ), held each year (unless the Court is in mourning) at the detached Hamn-Rikyu Palace in Tsukiji (PI. E, 7), though ostensibly for the purpose of viewing the fine cherry blossoms within the park, is not unfrequontly postponed until so late in April that only a few late blooms remain. Travelers who desire an invitation must first call upon their minister or ambassador, then make a formal application for an invitation — which is obtained from the Board of Ceremonies (shikibushoku). The cards arc handsomely embossed with the Imperial chrysanthemum crest in gold, and are accompanied by entrance tickets and instructions to gentlemen to wear frock coats and silk hats (or official uniforms). Ladies are expected to avoid somber attire, particularly mourning, which because of its hue is offensively suggestive to the Japanese minu. If the day is propitious, the Emperor and Empress, and members of the royal family and nobility, the diplomatic corps, titled strangers, and others are present (usually 800 or more persons). In case of rain or unusually high wind (or other minor causes) the function is either declared off, or their Majesties remain away (but permit strangers to inspect the grounds, etc.). An elaborate luncheon is served. The above remarks

Flower Displays.

apply also to the Imperial Chrysanthemum Party mentioned hereinafter. The water in the palace ponds is saline. The bronze statue in the park is of Umashimate no Mikoto, a fabulous character supposed to have dwelt in Japan at the time of the arrival of Jimmu Tenno (b.c. 660).

The Pear (nashi, — Pyrus sinensis), which is extensively cultivated and widely distributed, blossoms late in April and is seen at its best in the many orchards which flank the rly. between Yokohama and Tokyo. At a height of 8-10 ft. the tree-tops are bent horizontally, and made to form trellised arbors like those of the grape. The rich, creamy-white blossoms often cover this lattice-work with a beautiful carpet. The large fruit ripens in Aug.- Oct. and is spherical and somewhat flattened at both ends; the bronze- yellow skin is flecked with light gray spots; and the coarse, lumpy flesh, of a yellow color, though juicy and tolerably sweet, lacks the mellowness and flavor of American pears.

The Fire-Walking Ceremony (hiwatari) and the boiling- water ordeal (yubana-shiki), which take place at the Shinshu-kyo Shrine at Imagawa- kdji, Kanda-ku, in early April (consult the daily newspapers for advertisements), are not frequented by the better classes, and travelers will find it difficult to get near enough (because of the dense and frowsy throngs) to see the clumsy conjuring tricks. The fire-walking (a ceremony imported from India viA China) takes place in the courtyard of the shrine. A thin layer of charcoal embers are placed upon sand, fanned into flame, then carefully beaten down. After several handfuls of salt have been thrown upon the bed, various priests and their attendants shuffle their feet in wet salt and tramp across it. The thinness of the fire-bed and the wet feet explain the immunity. Any one can try it who is willing to run the risk of being scorched. The credulous believe the priests are in league with the Devil! The ordeal by hot water consists in wearisome incantations and the dipping of bamboo fronds into the hot liquid and letting air-cooled drops fall upon the naked person.

The Wistaria (fuji. — Wistaria chinensis), a genus of leguminous plant known in England as the kidney-bean tree; in Australia as the grape-flower vine; and in America (erroneously) under the generic name Wisteria, was named in honor of Caspar Wistar (an American anatomist who lived between 1761 and 1818), and blossoms best in Japan in early May. It is widely distributed and may be seen in many places (fine displays at the Kameido Garden). The Wistaria japonica differs but slightly from W. chinensis, and is popular for its handsome white and purplish papilionaceous flowers, which are usually trained horizontally over trellises so that the terminal racemes pend below, and the leaves (which develop later) spread above the trellis. The plant affords an ornamental shade; sometimes lives for more than a century; produces a bast from which certain textures are made; bears hundreds of beautiful flower clusters; and has wide-spreading branches and a stout, low trunk. When young, several small shoots are sometimes evenly twisted so that late in life the trunk has the appearance of a cable. It is one of the oldest and most popular among Japanese plants, and is supposed to have been brought to Japan from China. The Kuroda family, one-time rulers of Chikuzen Province, adopted the flower as its crest.

The Boys* Festival (tango) falls on May 5. At every house where a male child has been born during the preceding year, a huge hollow paper or silk carp, painted red and black, is raised banner-wise from the flagstaff above the house. The wind fills the symbols and. thousands are seen whipping and gyrating to and fro, typifying, to the native mind the resolution which the boy will show, as he swims against the current of adversity and vanquishes life's obstacles.

The Peony ( botan; of the genus Poeonia), one of the most beautiful and prolific of ornamental plants, was brought hither originally from China, where it is regarded as the King of Flowers ( Hwa Wang), and where it has been cultivated for ages as the 'Pride and Glory of China.1 It is greatly esteemed in both countries for the supposed healing powers of its root. The species most cultivated and admired, and which serves as one of the most popular modes of decoration in Japanese and Chinese industry, is Pceonia Moutan (Chinese: mowtan), or tree-peony, a tall, shrubby species, devoid of fragrance but with large, rose-colored, or nearly white flowers, several on a stalk. The most common variety is P. officinalis, an herb with a large, com-

TOKYO Flower Displays.

monly red flower, one on a stalk. The magnificent blossoms of P. Moutan unfold in May, and can usually be seen to best advantage in landscape gardens.

The Azalea ( tsutsuji), a word derived from Greek, meaning 'diy,' in allusion to the dry habitat of the plant, grows wild in many parts of Japan. In company with Deutzia and a host of other flowers, it adorns not merely the uncultivated sunny slopes all through temperate Japan, but is found in almost every garden. It blooms in April in the S.; in May in Tokyo and vicinity; and farther N, and in the mts., not till June, The collection at Hibiya Park is one of the finest in the capital.

The Iris ( hana-shobu, etc. — Iris laevigata) delights flower-lovers in June. There are many species, and many gardens ( Horikiri; Kamata, etc.).

The Opening of the Sumida River takes place in July. The Bon Matsuri, or ' Festival of the Dead,' survives in much of its original picturesqueness at Nagasaki (Rte. 40).

The Lotus-Flower (comp. p. ccxiii) is seen at its best in Aug. at Shinobazu Pond, at Uyeno Park, and in the Palace Moats.

The Chrysanthemum ( kiku ), a plant of the genus chrysanthemum (Greek: 'golden' flower'), the favorite of the autumn flora of Japan and China (whither it was brought in the 9th cent.), has developed under cultivation a great diversity of handsome and remarkable varieties. In Japan it ranks as the national flower, and constitutes the Imperial emblem. Travelers fortunate enough to secure an invitation to the Imperial Chrysanthemum Garden Party ( Kan-giku-kwai ), or 'Chrysanthemum-viewing Assembly,' held in Nov. of each year in the Aoyama Palace Garden, will there view the finest collection in the Empire. Some of the numerous single plants in this display have others grafted upon them, and produce as many as 1290 beautiful flowers, of various colora. Others have all their energy skillfully directed to the production of a single gorgeous bloom. In Oct.-Nov. numerous Chrysanthemum Shows will be found advertised in the daily newspapers; that of Dangozaka is spoken of at p. 197. Among the finest displays in private gardens is that of Count Okuma.

The Maple, of which there are 22 or more varieties belonging to the genus Acer, of the natural order Sapindacece, constitutes one of the floral beauties of Japan, where none of the ornamental trees are more highly prized. The best known and most valued varieties are Acer palmatam ( kaede ), and Acer japonicum ( momiji ), whose leaves take on a magnificent red color before falling in autumn, and present a picture of exceptional charm. The tree in alt its varieties is of low stature, sometimes dwarfed, and they produce beautiful and spectacular effects when growing amidst the other green shrubs in a garden, or among trees on a hillside. Splendid displays can be observed in almost any part of the country, Kyoto and Nikko being specially famed. During the season the rlys. run excursions to the best -known localities, and advertise them in the newspapers. The extremely fine-grained, close, heavy, tough, and durable maple wood is highly prized as a cabinet-wood.

The Camellia japonica ( tsubaki ), one of the most popular and widely cultivated of the Japanese shrubs, is highly prized as a decorative plant. Its name (given by Linnaeus in his Genera plantarum — in 1737) is in honor of George Joseph Kamel, a Moravian Jesuit and traveler of the 17th cent., who visited Manila and later described the plant in his Historia Stirpium Insula Luzonis. In 1739, the camellia was transplanted from Manila to the Jardin del Buen Retiro at Madrid, and on its introduction into England it received the name * Japanese rose.' The genus contains about a dozen species of shrubs or trees and belongs to the natural order Ternstroemiaceae. They all have thick, shining, evergreen leaves and white or rose-colored flowers. The genus is divided into two sections, one with pendulous flowers and persistent sepals, represented by Camellia theifera (the tea-plant of commerce); the other with erect flowers and deciduous sepals, of which Camellia japonica is an example. Of this species, with beautiful but odorless flowers and elegant laurel-like leaves, several hundred varieties have been produced, as well as numerous hybrids with the larger-flowered C. reticulata of China, and the fragrant-lea fed C. Sasanqua (or Sizankwa) of Japan — the latter widely cultivated for its valuable nuts and oil. Its wood is also used in the manufacture of combs, etc. Both the single and double camellias are found in gardens and temple groves. The blooming season begins according to the latitude, in Jan. or Feb., and lasts until April. Certain of the

Parks and Museums. TOKYO

species bloom in Nov. and Dec., and their flowers may often be seen gleaming through a covering of snow. The bark of the tree resembles that of the beech. The wild variety belonging to the forest is called Yama-tsubaki. Its simple red flowers open only in a bell, not a wheel form, remaining half- closed, like a tulip. In the neighborhood of Tokyo, C. japonica is usually seen as a good-sized bush; in S. Japan it grows into a tall tree, on whose branches the leafless mistletoe (hoya) called Viscum articulatum is sometimes found.

Disposition of Time.

In -view of the difficulty of planning successfully for the special tastes and interests of each individual, unquestionably the most effective way for the stranger to get what he considers the best return for a visit to Tokyo is for him to select from the following detailed descriptions those which make the strongest appeal to him, and visit the places in question. While a week at least should be devoted to the metropolis, one can get a superficial view of it in 1-2 days and crowd into the time a hurried inspection of the Shiba Mausolea, Imperial, Railway, and Arms Museums; the Palace environs, Ginza, and Uyeno and Asakusa Parks. The traveler is recommended to consult one of the principal daily newspapers in English for a list of the sights of the day.

The hotel manager can render valuable assistance in helping one to form sight-seeing plans, and in getting special permits to see private museums, etc. A bright day should be reserved for the mausolea; a rainy one can be utilized for the museums. The night life and the river offer but few attractions. The principal permanent attractions are listed below. Festivals and seasonal Flower Displays are mentioned above.

Consult also the literature issued free by the Japan Tourist Bureau.

* Asakusa Park and Temple (p. 215), open daily, free.

* Imperial Museum (p. 201), daily, from 8 to 6 in summer, and 9 to 4 in winter, between Jan. 5 and Dec. 25; small admission fee.

* Imperial University (p. 191), daily, 9 to 4, except Sunday; card from the hotel manager.

Landscape Garden of the Koishikawa Arsenal (p. 188), daily;

card of admittance from the hotel manager.

*Mausolea of the Tokugawa Shoguns at Shiba (p. 168) and Uyeno (p. 210) Parks, daily, from 8 to 4; small admission fee to each temple.

* The Meiji Jinsha, * National Picture Gallery, and the Stadium.

The first and the last can be seen at any time. The Picture Gallery is referred to in detail at p. 160.

* Museum of Arms (p. 157), daily, 8 to 5 in summer, 9 to 3 in

winter; small admission fee.

* Railway Museum (p. 140), daily except Monday, from 9 a.m.

to 5 p.m. Free.

Zoological Garden (p. 210), daily, till dusk. Small admission

Descriptive.

Situation, History, and Character of the City.

Tokyo (pronounced toque-yoh) or Tokio, or Tokei (or East Capital, from the Sinico-Japanese word To, east, and Kyd, or Kid, or Kei, capital), until 1869 called Yedo,1 or Edo (from Ye, bay, and Do, door, or ' Bay Door ')» the finest, wealthiest and most prosperous and progressive city (shi) of New Japan; capital of the Empire and residence of the Imperial ruling family; the social, intellectual, and financial center *of the Island; is a huge, scattered but orderly city in a constant process of transformation, a few feet above the level of the sea at the N. end of the vast Tokyo Bay. It stands on the N. and S. banks of the Sumida River, in Tokyo-fu, Musashi Province, in the Kwanto district (p. cxliii), on the island of Hondo, in lat. 35° 41° N.; and long. 139° 54' E. of Greenwich — practically that of Washington and San Francisco, Athens and Madrid. It is 18 M. northeast of its natural port, Yokohama. -

As one of the three Imperial Fu of the Empire, Tokyo stands near the center of an administrative district of great size and importance; embracing 8 gun, more than two score towns, and nearly 200 villages distributed over an area of upward of 160 square miles. The census of 1927 gave the metropolis a population of 2,150,000 (against Osaka's 2,259,900), but with the carrying out (now in operation) of the Greater Tokyo Plan it will have upward of 5 million inhabs. and thus be (perhaps) the 3d largest city of the world. The Tokyo Central Station is the proposed center of a ten mile radius.

In the present city there are about 485,000 houses (rapidly increasing) and 1462 streets distributed through 15 Wards, or Ku, as follows:

Wards

Meaning

No. of houses

No. of streets

Population

Akasaka

Hillslope

16,432

47

67,225

Asakusa

Corchoropsia

crenala

56,161

160

263,238

Azahu

Hemp

17,658

50

67,700

Fukagawa

Deep River

34,957

99.

123,887

Hong 6

Native Country

30,762

66

131,375

Honjo

Main Place

40,927

82

162,159

Kanda

God's Field

47,154

133

148,461

Koinhikaioa

Pebble River

23,570

77

96,396

Kojimachi

Old Street

16,685

76

71,817

Kyobashi

Capital Bridge

50,010

207

190,664

Nihonbashi

Japan Bridge

24,206

140

146,356

Shiba

Herbage

34,601

132

166,540

Shitaya

Lower Valley

50,389

73

169,202

Ushigome

Oxen Quarter

22,001

78

96,141

Yolsuya

Four Valleys

19,487

42

68,672

1 Some historians claim that Yedo was named for Ycdo Taro Shigpnaga who, as a political agent for the Shogun Yoritomo, settled in Musashi province in the 12th century.

Descriptive.

These wards, shown on the accompanying plan, make the getting about the city comparatively easy; if the stranger will fix them in the mind, it is not difficult to locate any desired place, since the local custom is to mention them frequently. Strangers with no knowledge of the language can often get near to a destination by uttering the single word Vyeno, Asakusa, Tsuhiji, Shiba, or the like, when addressing jinriki- men or street-car conductors.

With the exception of a few low hills at the N. and W., the city is comparatively level, spreading out over a wide plain like a huge ellipse, about 6 miles E. and W. and 8 miles N. and S. with an approximate area of 37.7 sqr. M. The Imperial Household owns about § of the land; § of the remainder belonging to the Tokyo Municipality, and the residue to individuals. The most aristocratic quarter is Kojimachi, where the Imperial Palace, the embassies, legations! and governmental departments are situated. Nihonbashi-ku is the busiest commercial section, with the highest land values (cheapest in Fukagawa and Koishikawa). The most elevated section is Akasaka (120 ft.), and the lowest Fukagawa (4 ft.) — which is flooded frequently. The Palace stands 111 ft. above the Bay; Uyeno Park, 67 ft.

The Central Imperial Gov't (p. cliii) is represented in an administrative capacity by a governor, and a mayor; each of the guns possess an executive chief and an assembly, while the villages have petty local governing bodies. Of the 4000 foreigners residing in Tokyo about 75% are English and American, the rest Chinese, Koreans, Germans, Frenchmen, Russians, and other nationalities in the order described. The former are chiefly represented in the diplomatic and ecclesiastical bodies, and reside in or near the embassies and legations, or at Tsukiji: the Chinese and Koreans are mostly University students. The native-born are not averse to being called by the colloquial appellative Edokko (Yedoites), since its recessive meaning implies boldness and fortitude as their greatest virtues. Owing to the steady influx of advanced foreign ideas and improved sanitary methods which help to decrease the death rate, the capital expands and grows apace.

Under the stimulus of a singularly intelligent and capable gov't, it is rapidly acquiring international renown as a progressive educational center. It possesses a number of splendidly equipped libraries, universities, and colleges; a seis- mological institute, which is perhaps the most complete in the world; several uniquely attractive museums; scores of minor educational institutions; numerous fine landscape gardens and parks; and all the requisites of a brilliant Oriental metropolis.

Tokyo is founded on water in the sense that the plain was reclaimed from a swamp long known geographically mMusashi

History of

no Hara (the Musashi moor); and that water is within easy reach of the surface all over the city. The 355 wells of the metropolis testify to this, as do the 442 pumps, familiar figures standing at intervals along the thoroughfares or alongside the canals — from which water is pumped to sprinkle the streets. This function is made necessary by the peculiar nature of the soil (Pliocene of the Tertiary). Composed chiefly of sedimentary deposits, it is so compact and tenacious that neither heat nor air penetrate it. Instead of absorbing the sun's rays it reflects them, thereby rendering the atmosphere stifling on summer days, and cool as soon as the sun sets. As the earth is too dense for the water to soak into it readily, a consecutive rainfall of an hour or more converts the city into a sea of mud. In the absence of other paving material than macadam, whirling clouds of fine, grayish dust, which penetrates like the sand from the Chinese Loess, rise on windy days, and make traveling highly disagreeable. Were the city more compact, and could one get a bird's-eye view of it, it would bear some likeness to Venice or Bangkok, for a multiplicity of canals spanned by 477 bridges (153 of stone, 29 of iron, and 295 of wood) cross and re-cross it. Tidal water is considered the life of certain districts, especially Nihonbashi, Kyobashi, and Fukagawa — the centers of commercial as well as canal life. The daily life and character of many of the inhabitants of these wards, and of the others which flank the swift Sumida-gawa, are influenced by water. Likewise their destinies, for many are drowned each year, through accidents or by the floods which sometimes devastate the low-lying quarters of the city and claim an appalling list of victims.

Sixty-three main Canals (hori) and numerous branches reach inward from the river and enable fairly big junks to bring their cargoes right up to the doors of many of the Tokyo warehouses. Vast quantities of merchandise are carried in and out on these aqueous lanes, — on which most of the city's refuse is floated out to sea, and the fish and market supplies are brought in. The city records show that 2839 junks, 2135 sculling-boats, 278 steamboats, 66 European sail-boats, 27 warehouse-boats, and 54 ferry-boats, plying between 22 ferries, traffic on the surface of the Sumida and its converging canals. When typhoons blow in the right direction, or mt. torrents swell the upper waters of the river, many of these fluvial lanes overflow their banks and bring consternation and destruction in their train. The great flood of Aug., 1907, killed 459 persons, injured 237, partly destroyed 3259 houses, flooded 87,000, washed away 3108, and ruined many bridges. That of 1910 was almost as destructive. When the tide is out, some of the canals are offensively pestiferous, and are paved with blue-black slime which indicates that the refluent tide brings much of the refuse back into the city.

Old Yedo, prior to the 15th cent., was a characterless fishing- village. It came first into history in 1456 when Ota Sukenaga (known also as Ota Dokwan)f a vassal of th eSadamasa branch of the Uesugi family (of daimyos ), built a castle on a hill overlooking the bay, and after considerable fighting with his envious neighbors became the acknowledged master of Musashi Province. (Dujurse the castle and fief others, —

Old Yedo.

ultimately to Hojo Ujitsuna, who held it until his downfall in 1590. It went then to the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu who razed the structure and on its site erected another which endured as the seat of the shogunate for 260 yrs. After his crushing victory over his enemies at Sekigahara, the celebrated founder of the Tokugawa line (who is regarded as the father of the present city) set about with customary energy to make the reedy swamps about Edo a fit place of residence. With characteristic strategy the wily general not only effected this, but he safeguarded his position as master by ordering all the great feudal barons of the country to build their metropolitan mansions (yashiki) near his well-nigh impregnable castle; to live at the capital during a portion of each year; and upon departing for their distant fiefs to leave wives and children as hostages against a safe and loyal return. [Bronze statuettes of both Dokwan and Ieyasu maybe seen on the stairway landing of the mayor's office, — PI. F, 6.] At this period Yedo resembled a vast military encampment, with the shogun's headquarters in the castle on the hill, and the dwellings of the daimyos and their swashbuckling retainers spread out like a fan before it. Mile after mile of the fortress-like yashiki of these territorial barons stood where the governmental bureaus,* the embassies and legations, the house of Parliament, Hibiya Park, etc., stand now; grim but picturesque structures surrounded by open ditches, entered through massive gateways clamped with iron or bronze, oftentimes studded with bosses and spikes, and always guarded by haughty, two-sworded samurai, each with his little retinue; so that the great army added considerably to the population and prosperity of the new town. Despite the earthquakes which at intervals almost demolished it, and the conflagrations which from time to time cut tremendous swaths through it, Yedo flourished apace — so much so that at its period of greatest prosperity (before the collapse of the feudal system and the consequent downfall of the shogunate) it is said to have contained more than a million inhabitants. When the shogun's influence began to wane, and the obligation laid upon the daimyos to maintain feudal mansions in Yedo could be evaded, there was an exodus which for a time threatened the very existence of the erstwhile shogunal stronghold; had it not befallen that the 1 restored' Mikado made (in 1869, 28th day, 3d month, 2d year of Meiji) of Yedo his 'East Capital,' and established (at the instigation of Okuho Toshimichi) his residence and the seat of the Imperial Gov't here, the glory and glitter of the once famous 1 City of the Tycoons' might have departed forever. The rise of Yokohama was coincident with Yedo's threatened decadence, and Osaka's prestige was seriously impaired by the removal of the capital from Kyoto.

History speaks in mournful terms of the disasters which overtook Yedo during the early years of its existence; fires did

Old Yedo.

terrible damage, particularly when they 'got away' and developed into what American fire-fighters term 'conflagrations/ Those of 1621-57-68 and 1845 left scarcely anything but smouldering ruins in their wake, not even sparing the Imperial Palace, which burned, to be again destroyed in 1863. So terrifying were some of these holocausts that the populace became panic-stricken when a fire started, and frantic men dashed through the narrow streets furiously beating great drums whose booming notes echoed far and wide and warned the people to be on the watch against an ember-bombardment and its consequences. So deeply rooted became this custom that it is still practiced, and oftentimes in the still hours of the night the visitor hears the deep, thrilling tones of drums spreading their triple warning notes; men march through streets miles from the fire, tapping drums and ringing bells, as solemn and lugubrious warnings to those afar to prepare for dire disaster. In 1760 more than one half of Yedo was reduced to ashes, and 11 yrs. later a fire which burned for 10 days and swept over 5 districts destroyed an untold number of nouses and killed 400 persons.

'The Government (writes Captain Brinkley] seems to have been engaged in constant legislation and organization for checking these catastrophes. At first the city was divided into 47 sections, each having its own band of firemen, and on alarm being raised, all the bands were ordered to proceed to the scene. But it was soon recognized that the loss of life and the robberies caused by failure to control the crowds thronging the streets were more terrible even than the havoc wrought by the flames. Therefore the divisions of the city were reduced to ten, and a decree directed that only the firemen of the section actually burning should proceed to the place, all the rest remaining to protect their sections against sparks and thieves. Measures almost savagely drastic were adopted to prevent disorder. Again and again regulations appeared on the noticeboards at the cross-streets forbidding any save the nearest relatives to repair to the scene of a fire, and authorizing the guards to kill every person acting in defiance of that restriction. The incendiary was crucified, and any one causing a fire by negligence became liable to capital punishment, while the members of the five-family group to which he belonged shared his guilt to the extent of imprisonment.'

About the middle of the 17th cent, the wealthier citizens began using tiles for roofing purposes, as an added precaution against fire, and this was followed in 1721 by the invention (ascribed to Hachiroji Iga) of the fireproof storehouse ( dozd ) covered with mud 'and plaster, now conspicuous features in every town. Conflagrations continued, however, and in time they came to be regarded as one of the inevitable ills of daily life, and it was said, 'The Fire is Yedo's Flowero ( Kaji-wa Yedo no hana da), a proverb which lives in the vernacular. It is no uncommon thing for fires to destroy from 1000 to 2000 houses at a time in Tokyo; statistics show that the annual fires aggregate about 700, and that some 8000 houses valued at 6 million yen are burned. To the unstable paper-lamp ( andon ), the unhygienic fire-box ( kotatsu ), the shichirin (a portable furnace so called because it requires only of a pennyworth of charcoal )most of the fires, are due. Servants scorn the most

The Present City.

elementary precautions against fire, and the surprising thing is that there are not more each year. The greatest fires oftentimes break out in brothels and bath-houses.

There was no lack of floods in the early days, for then the canals were as much in evidence as now, and the unruliness of the Sumida-gawa equally disastrous; but the toll of lives and property exacted by them was trifling compared with the havoc wrought by earthquakes — the scourge which the long-suffering Japanese dread the most. In 1703 an earthquake shook down a large portion of the colossal walls of the castle moats, and a fire followed in which 37,000 lives were lost; coincidently a tidal wave destroyed upward of 100,000 persons in the districts of Sagami, Kazusa, and Awa. Of the most destructive earthquakes through which the city has passed that of 1855 deserves special mention, for the recollection of it and its attendant horrors remains with the oldest inhabitants; and the people, notwithstanding their habitual stoicism, fear nothing more than a repetition of it. Eighty shocks were felt within a month, the most violent on the night of Nov. 10; in the twinkling of an eye Yedo was little better than a rubbish heap. Fire broke out simultaneously in 30 places throughout the capital, which was made as light as day by the glare. Those of the terrified people who had not thought instantly of saving themselves, mostly perished under beams and debris; many were burned to death. The survivors took refuge on the hills and in the environs. From time to time the shocks were repeated, until they finally ceased Nov. 28. The number of fallen houses in Yedo was estimated at 14,200, with 1600 warehouses; 104,000 persons are said to have perished. (Comp. Earthquakes, p. 195.)

The Present City. The first intelligent and sustained efforts to beautify and modernize the * Eastern Capital1 were made by the late Emperor aided by the Municipal Board, Both were ceaseless in their efforts to reclaim the tawdry suburbs; replace mediaeval structures with comfortable, modern ones; convert the unsightly, outlying moats into well-paved thoroughfares; and change the vast waste places of the metropolis into flowerdecked parks or pleasure-grounds. A splendid example of the latter is Hibiya Park, long a neglected, unkempt, parade- ground, and now a center for the most magnificent display of azaleas in the city. Many of the abuses which obtained during the days of the shogunate were corrected, and the Emperor instituted many good ideas in civic reform. The old two-sworded men who once paraded the city streets — picturesque adjuncts to a shogun but terrible to the cringing citizen — have vanished into the limbo reserved for such obsolete things, albeit their romance and history are enshrined in many a song and poem. This praiseworthy interest on the part of the Mikado in his new capital soon began to crystallize in terms of expansion and

prosperity. The'city.throve visibly under the imperial urge,

The Present City.

and the census of 1875 recorded 149,383 houses, 1177 streets, and 565,905, inhabitants. The environs of the castle were beautified; trees were planted; boulevards were laid out; parks planned; and the Nipponese were shown that they had the right setting for one of the finest cities in the Far East. Its greatest growth and development date from about 1880, when Japan was practically freed from serious internal disorder, and fairly launched on its unexampled career of progress. The united people began to show their eagerness to place their country and its historic capital on an equal footing with those of other great nations, and civic improvements became the theme uppermost in. the metropolitan mind. Public-spirited citizens began to found and endow universities and colleges; sturdy granite buildings appeared where formerly stood the thatched and wattled huts of the proletariat; electric tramways and other imported conveniences were added; and the sometime feudal stronghold renounced retirement and obscurity and fell into its present stride.

The Tokyo of to-day must be a far more comfortable place for a Japanese to live in than was the Yedo of the Tycoons. Formerly if an official made a blunder he was likely to be poisoned or stabbed; in default of either he ws practically sure to receive from some thoughtful soul a poniard accompanied by an invitation quickly to disembowel himself! Again, if a timid layman but looked askance at a picaroon of a samurai his head was sliced off in a trice and his remains kicked into the canal to be floated out to sea. To-day the humblest citizen has a voice that is oftentimes louder than was that of the shogun in the 17th cent., and the commoner is protected in his rights to a degree anciently undreamed of.

.The sometime exclusive capital of the Tohugawa is in an agitated state of steady reformation; it is undergoing a sort of sustained moulting season during which the old, weatherbeaten, historic plumage is being shed and a newer, more iridescent, composite garb is taken on. In old Yedo the castle was the center round which the capital developed its institutions, and such also is the case in modern Tokyo. The sumptuous gov't offices, theaters, banks, clubs, commercial structures, and fine boulevards which the increasing wealth of the people enables them to construct, and which extend in a constantly widening circle away from the fine old castellated relic of feudal days, are significant of the newer order, and symptomatic of the conditions which the Tokyo of the next few decac.es will present to the stranger. No longer can the critic lament that Tokyo is monotonous and lacks individuality. Many of the modern edifices are not only solid and semi-classical in character, of cut stone, and three or four stories in height, but they stand in large compounds, away from the shingle roofs of the flimsy native structures, not only imparting a park-like

The Present City.

aspect to the locality, but proving a check against the spread of fire. Whenever a conflagration does cut a swath through any portion of the old quarter, the alert and progressive authorities profit by a municipal regulation covering such cases; and narrow lanes, which formerly ran like hair lines up and down and across the city, are converted into wide thoroughfares, dotted here and there with bronze statues or monuments of national heroes. These fires prove blessings in their way, for Tokyo is so vast that normal improvements — always necessarily slow — are scarcely noticeable, and many years would ordinarily be required to convert Ieyasu's old capital into a preventable Occidental metropolis. It thus befalls that between visits, certain quarters of the city grow almost out of recognition — even to Japanese who go abroad and later return. Present-day Tokyo is showing its commercial genius by absorbing a good deal of the trade which once belonged to Yokohama, and during the last few years not a few Yokohama merchants have been forced either to open branches here or transfer bodily their allegiance.

The relative smallness of the majority of the ephemeral, frame, neutral-tinted, one- or two-storied, pantile-roofed Japanese Houses — which customarily shelter 4-6 persons and are constructed with the reserve idea that they may at any time be burned, or shaken down by an earthquake — accounts for the lack of Tokyo's compactness. Though outwardly modest, even tawdry, some of them are as deceptive as those of Seville, with their delightful patios, fountains, and flowers; for behind their monotonous exteriors often lie charming little landscape gardens dotted with tiny pools, microscopic islands, bridges, and the like, where fluffy-tailed goldfish with pop-eyes and distended little stomachs swim beneath flowering iris, lotus, maples, or cherry blooms, and dispute the restricted spaces with captive turtles, lovely cranes, porcelain pagodas, or sundry bronze ornaments and dwarf trees. So spread out is the old daimyo stronghold, and so few the marked elevations, that there is no one point from which the city as a whole can be seen. Sectional views are possible from Vyeno Park, and Atago-yama, and a sweeping perspective is obtainable from the edge of Kudan Hill (PI. F, 4), whence one looks out toward the NJ E. over Kanda-ku, Nihonbashi, and the wards beyond, but all serve to impress one with the vastness of Tokyo, broken in many places by trees, singly, in groves, and in avenues.

The vista from the E. edge of Uyeno Terrace is one of the most satisfying, for beyond the intervening sea of dull gray roofs there rise the fine old upward-sweeping, heavily tiled roofs of the Asakusa temples, with their gilded crests glinting in the sun, and hard by, the ever-picturesque pagodas and semi-Arabic roofs of the metropolitan Coney Island. Beyond is the glistening Sumida-gawa, and cutting the horizon like

The Present City.

lapis-lazuli spires, fading away into the pearly haze, are scores of peaks of Japan's northern mt. range. The traveler is frequently impressed by the singular attractiveness of these grand old temple roofs seen from afar. Some of them are astonishingly complicated, with a maze of gables, involuted angles, demons and mythological monsters, and throughout Japan they take the place of the cathedral spires of Europe and America, and of the polychromatic tiled domes and minarets of India and the near East. Coupled with the beguiling views of the winsome Fuji, which one gets from many points in Tokyo, the temples would rescue any city from the commonplace. They certainly refute the remark of a hypercritical traveler that 'Tokyo is a city of magnificent distances without the magnificence. ' No thoughtful traveler could entertain this belief after having seen the splendid old castle inclosure with its superb moats ana colossal, aristocratically sedate and impressive walls; the bar- barically grandiose mausolea of Shiba Park, with their splendid circum variation; Uyeno itself enshrined in its glorious groves of majestic cryptomerias and bewilderingly beautiful avenues of flowering cherry trees, or even the broad Shinobazu-no-ike which stretches W. from the foot of Uyeno heights and which, in August, is so choked with a myriad gorgeous lotus blooms that scarcely an inch of its erstwhile mirror-like surface is exposed to view. No well-advised traveler to Tokyo will fail to make a pilgrimage to this enchanting spot when the lotuses are in bloom, nor yet in early April when the cherry blooms so idealize the park that the beauty-loving Japanese seem seized with a species of flower-madness and drop everything to hasten there and drink in the impressive sight.

No quarter in Tokyo can be said to be given up solely to business, unless it be the restricted area immediately adjacent to Yaesu-cho, as the Japanese custom is to live and do business — even manufacturing — under the same roof. So many of the houses are demure, box-like affairs, too tiny to hold the family when the bread-winning machinery is in motion, that thousands of the inhabitants make the streets their home during certain hours of the day. The saunterer along the city's byways may see scores of native products in the process of making in the little houses whose front casements are shunted out of sight in the morning to leave the interior with most of its domestic practices open to the gaze of every passer-by. In this, as in other ways, huge areas of Tokyo are provincial rather than metropolitan, but adherences to age-old customs and social regulations add to the general picturesqueness. In those remote quarters of the city where a foreigner is still strange to the people, one gets many queer glimpses of the life of Ola Japan, transplanted but not changed.

The Japanese possess the German's genius and liking for statistics and minuteness, and a scrupulously exact record is

The Present City.

kept of Tokyo and the doings of its people. The daily floating population of the metropolis is 29,000, and those who come in are counted as well as those who leave. The yearly average of marriages is 13,000, with 2000 divorces and 400 suicides (150 of which are women). Upward of 200,000 persons live on 7-8 sen a day, and envy those who can spend 10 sen (5 cents, American money). Of the 752,000 women, 191,000 work outside their homes — 59,000 as maid-servants; 26,000 as dressmakers; 24,200 as shop assistants; 20,000 as hotel- and bar-maids; and 14,500 as teachers. The majority (aged 15 to 60yrs.) are unmarried. Of the 50,000 children born each year 7000 are Shoal. i (bom of concubines). The 5200 children who are lost each year are as regularly found by the 4000 policemen (average salary, ¥75 a month) and restored to their careless parents. The same policemen maintain order in 886 bath-houses; the 5 licensed quarters with their 6734 women of the half-world; the 1618 geisha houses containing 3938 geisha (many of whom lead the police a desperate chase); the 545 high-class, and the 7736 low-class restaurants; 350 amusement-halls, numerous theaters, and 450 inns and hotels. To keep the police well exercised, they are made to help put out the 700-odd fires which occur annually; muzzle the 12, 110 dogs (7634 of them 'honest' watch-dogs) owned in the city; kill the 1,500,000 honorable rats (of which there are about 3 in each house) slaughtered annually (411 a day); keep one eye on the 6000 loafers (who call themselves ronin, but who in many cases are just plain thieves) that roam and dawdle about the streets; keep another eye on the 1176 pawnbrokers; and the 759 waste-paper collectors, the while directing autos and other vehicles to keep on the left side of the road! The questions put to these overworked public servants, who earn a small wage, but who are always courteous, and usually unbribable, have not been listed. There are 1310 Buddhist temples (50 yrs. ago there were 3300) divided among 9 sects, in the metropolis, and 213 Shinto shrines. Of the 123 places where Christianity is preached, 7 are Roman Catholic and 8 Russian (Greek) Orthodox. The 120 toy manufacturers ship toys ( omocha ) each year to the value of 1$ million yen. — That the Japanese are fast becoming a meat-eating people is shown by the fact that each year 35,000 beeves, 12,000 horses, and 60,000 hogs are killed in the Tokyo abattoirs, and that they consume besides, numerous monkeys, wild-boars, deer, — and cats [which are known to be served in some of the cheap macaroni restaurants].

The wide-open, metamorphosed capital of the old shoguns now contains five palaces and several imperial villas; a score or more foreign embassies and legations; a Stock and a Produce Exchange; a Clearing-House; 150 Banks (and many Postal Savings Banks); three widely celebrated Universities (nearly all with private museums and libraries); and several letrcr

The Present City.

ones; an Academy of Fine Arts; one of Music; and a host of colleges and minor schools — conspicuous among them Marine, Naval, Military, Technical, Sericultural, and Polytechnics! Schools, as well as schools for Engineering, Surgery, Agriculture, Rly. Science, Natural Science, Commerce, and what-not. The excellent Foreign Language School accounts for hundreds of the polyglot men and women one meets throughout Japan, while the admirable Rly. School, maintained and conducted by the Imperial Gov't Rly. Bureau, turns out each year scores of young men not only well versed in the science of rly. management, but able to speak English with amazing fluency and academic purity. The Jujutsu School of Prof. Jigoro Kano is a unique product of Old Japan and a special feature of Tokyo. In this unpretentious place many young men and women are daily trained to proficiency in the subtle ethics of a singular Oriental science in which foreigners have long been interested, but whose higher laws of physical dynamics have yet to be expatriated.

As the greatest focus of the new order of things in Japan, Tokyo naturally heads the list with post-offices, of which tnere is a central office with 23 lesser ones and 205 branches through which 225 million pieces of mail matter pass annually; there are 1740 post-boxes scattered throughout the city. The stamps, as well as the national paper currency, are printed at the Mint mentioned at p. 140. Ten attractive bazaars add to the glitter of the metropolis, and scores of Commercial Guilds conduct the vast commerce of the capital through proper channels. About 350 patents are issued each year in the Patent Office, but so many of these are to foreigners that one concludes the Japanese lack inventiveness. The municipally owned tramways (150 or more M. of track) carry about 200,000 passengers daily, safely, quickly, and for an inclusive small fare. At present there are 12 parks, but the system is being extended. Besides the well-stocked Zoological Garden there are 2 attractive Botanical Gardens and an unlisted number of fine Landscape Gardens. The annual flower displays at certain of the parks and public gardens are scarcely equaled anywhere. Most of the 15 Hospitals (the Salvation Army Hospital was opened in 1912) are modern and complete; as are also the 4 prisons. The Yoshiwaras are located at the cardinal points of the capital, and being thus relegated, the main thoroughfares of the city are freer from a certain element than are those of almost any city of equal size on the globe. The extensive sewer system now under way will cost about 33 million yen. The water (safer to drink it boiled) supply comes from the Tamagawa ('crystal river') 24 M. away, and it was first brought into the city in 1900. There are 9 cemeteries in Tokyo, besides several crematories (at Kameido, Meguro, etc.) or kasoba. The Metropolitan Race-Course is at Meguro (PI. A, 6),

The Present City.

Although Tokyo abounds in places of minor interest, and the strangeness of its street life appeals powerfully to the Occidental, it possesses but few rapturous charms and genuine fascinations. It lacks the lustrous, jewel-like brilliancy of certain of the gorgeous cities of British India; the gay, suggestive whirl of San Francisco, Paris, or Berlin; the stately streets and delirious resorts of New York; or the more sedate but equally attractive haunts of London. Practically speaking, there is no night life that appeals to the foreigner; no nocturnal thrills strong enough to keep him out of his bed till 5 a.m. There are no gay squares or plazas; no majestic streets like Fifth Avenue or the Boulevard des Italiens; no 'Great White Way*; no luxurious 'Lobster Palaces'; and no fashionable drives like the Bois, Rotten Row, the Maidan, or even the Bubbling-Well Road. Exhibitions of plutocratic pomp; of diamond-decked difficulties; of fascinating feminine charms, are wanting. Nor is there a Bohemian quarter. The theaters possess but few allurements for the average traveler fresh from 'home/ and the fact that the local 'Coney Island ' is within a temple compound somehow chills his vivaciousness. Nor is he often blind to the curious fact that not far from some big temple are those strange products of Japanese civilization, the Yoshi- rvaras, — poison-spots where dwell the glittering enchantresses known as the licensed hetairai. Neither codes of pride nor prejudice seem to suggest that brothels should be as far removed as possible from temples.

After dark Tokyo is a big dusky village to all but the initiated, and to some a somewhat dull one. Unless one figures in the diplomatic swing, and officiates at the almost ceaseless round of entertainments enjoyed by that favored class, there is little for the average man to do outside the comfortable hotel; for the few thousand foreigners who dwell in Tokyo are practically lost in the huge metropolis. On the other hand, the Japanese, who do not go in much for a fast life, and who are easily pleased, find the decorous allurements of Tokyo so potent that they are drawn to them, as by magnets, from all parts of the Empire. To hobnob perpetually with a tiny pot of insipid, sugarless tea and a tobacco-pipe with a bowl no bigger than a bullet, the while listening to the beating of a tom-tom and the doleful ditties of pantomimic geisha, fill them with rapture; and once installed in the capital they regard with positive pity all who are so unfortunate as to dwell outside it. Late diners, midnight smokers, with the Great Napoleon's ability to sleep anywhere, in any position, and at anytime, the Japanese, when enjoying themselves, play stronger on the soft pedal than on the loud, with a non-percussive pianissimo effect in which the restless, feverish foreigner finds it impossible to join.

Despite the incessant drive which modern ambitions are gradually instilling into commercial Tokyo, the traveler notes

The Present City.

a lack of discord incompatible with so big a city. One may tramp the streets for weeks on end and never witness a brawl, see a child spanked (children are never struck in punishment), hear a profane word, or note a cross look. The fact that most of the huddle of houses in the city have but a very thin party wall; that sounds are conveyed distinctly through them, and that the majority of the people live almost in each others' mouths, speak volumes for the forbearance mutually shown. That such a vast multitude can dwell so closely packed yet on such amiable and courteous terms is a sustained surprise to Westerners. Whether the free adoption of the modern strenuous life will make for the permanent maintenance of this almost idyllic state remains to be seen. With many, the struggle to keep heads above the rising tide of high prices is pathetic, and that individualism is now prevailing where collectivism formerly ruled is too apparent to be disregarded. Notwithstanding tliis, the capital i& practically free from footpads; life is safer than in many Occidental cities, and foreigners can usually walk the streets unharmed at any time of night.

Among the many picturesque spots in the capital are certain reaches along the network of canals, to wrhich the quaint doll- like houses back up and squeeze tightly one against the other. Some are built on wrooden piles and have overhanging rear balconies in the form of modified oriels supported by brackets or corbels; when they are filled with flowers and with cages of song-birds they strongly recall vistas in Italy and southern Spain. The activity of the barges, junks, and sampans which ply almost ceaselessly along these tidal wrays, and the graceful shadows cast by the old-fashioned humpbacked bridges add additional charm.

The undiscriminating hand of progress is fast eliminating many of these picturesque reminders of the tranquil life of Old Japan, but happily it will be many years before all the old customs are discarded in favor of newer (and less attractive)

ones.

Canal life in Tokyo, or in any of the other native cities, is always colorful and picturesque to the foreigner, for in a sense maritime Japan has fostered many of the old tradition;; and ways. Some of the craft look as old as time and suggest the 10th rather than the 20th centuries. Some of the smells, too, strike the foreigner as having survived th§ feudal period and been handed down from a remote antiquity.

Someone has remarked that 'every city setup hv the hand of man possesses a distinctive smell.' An ungrudging and enthusiastic liberality characterizes those on some of the minor canals in the purlieus of Tokyo, but the fine sea breeze, the 'saving grace of the city,' minimizes them.

Tokyo has practically none of t he offensive attributes of certain Oriental cities of its age and size*

The Streets,

The Streets ( machi, cho, chome, tori, or dori), of which there are 1418 covering some 600 M., are nearly all animated, and as full of color and joyousness as an Indian bazaar. They are named for individuals, trades, animals, flowers, birds, fishes, views, and various natural objects; many of the names are duplicated and triplicated, and very few retain the same name along their entire length. Most of them are rich in historical interest — theaters of stirring events before and after the Restoration. Repeated municipal edicts have changed many of the picturesque old names, notably those that smacked too strongly of the adventurous shoguns and the swashbuckling picaroons who helped them to make history; while the devastating hand of progress has spared all too few of the bizarre landmarks that were living messages from the days of Old Japan. There is a Matsu (pine) street in almost every one of the various subdivisions of the city, while many are named for the bamboo, peony, chrysanthemum, cherry, stork, monkey, bear, plum, rice, many kinds of fish, and what-not. Some streets take their names from near-by bridges. Few if any recall military exploit; one, Anjin-cho (Pilot St.), is named for Will Adams (p. 38), the first Englishman who ever came to Japan. The first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu, gave new names to several of the principal streets, calling them after some of those in Shizuoka, and this nomenclature remained, with scarcely any variations, until after the civil war. But when Yedo was changed to Tokei (then Tokio and later Tokyo), every name borrowed from Shizuoka or which in any way recalled the former power and glory of the House of Tokugawa, was erased and replaced by others. About one sixth of the street names were altered by this decree, and the old names, along with Yedo (which is not now used), were soon forgotten. Many of the long streets have local names that apply to the sections through which they pass. The newer streets are wide and spacious, and usually straight. One rarely sees a permanently filthy street in Tokyo; even the narrowest lanes are almost always clean and well swept. Sidewalks are being added to the new streets, — an innovation dating from the present era. Blind alleys are called ' bag streets.' The wide avenues along the castle moats and on the hill at the W. of the Palace are said to have been made originally for the spectacular display of feudal trains. The shogunal glories have departed, but the streets remain to grace the splendid capital of New Japan. Those on the plain are designated as Shita/nachi ('the lowest part of a city '), and those on the hill-slopes Yama-no-te ('a region adjoining hills '). Those within the outer moat are known as Marunouchi. Five big national roads run through Tokyo, the most prominent being the Tokaido, — the one-time highroad to Kyoto.

Marunouchi.

The Centra] or Marunouchi (' inside the circle 9) Quarter.

The region bounded by the Imperial Palace on the W.; the Sumida River on the E.; Shimbashi Station at the S.; and Manseibashi on the N., is the busiest, the most densely populated, the wealthiest and the most progressive of the metropolis. At its W. limit a wide boulevard ( Kasumigaseki, and its prolongation Sakuramondori) leads N.E. to the historic Saku- radamon Gate of the Palace, and is flanked on its N.W. side by the Russian Embassy and the Foreign Office, both of which, with the region to the W., are referred to at p. 159. Diagonally opposite the latter, on the S.E., in Uchisawaicho and in a wide compound in which are a number of big guns (relics of the Japan-Russia War), are the Upper and Lower Houses of Parliament (see p. clii). The chief secretaries of both houses have their offices in the compound; the official residence of the Speaker of the Upper House is at the S. W. corner of Hibiya Park; that of the Speaker of the Lower House is opposite that of the former. Directly facing the Foreign Office is the solid, Westernized brick and stone structure which houses the Department of the Navy; the middle one of the ill-proportioned bronze statues in the front yard is of the celebrated Marquis Saigo Tsugumichi (1843-1902), Minister, Marshal, Admiral, and faithful supporter of the late Emperor, as well as brother to the ill-fated Saigo Takamori (whose monument stands near the entrance to Uyeno Park). The statue at the S.W. is of Count Kawamura of the Satsuma (Kagoshima) Clan, who was ennobled after the Restoration; the one at the N.E. is of Viscount Nire, of the same clan. The companion structures which stretch along the street toward the N.E. are the several Departments of Justice (the District, Appeal, and Supreme Courts). The green-bronze shaft with a sculptured stele in the yard near the entrance to the first edifice, commemorates the late Count Yamada. The statue at the left is of the late Count Oki — both well-known Ministers of Justice who contributed toward the codification of the Japanese Laws. The interior of the building, with its hundreds of small offices, is gloomy; the N.E. corner of the 2d structure is the official residence of the Minister of Justice. Flanking the line of houses on the E, is the fine

Hibiya Park (PI. E, 6), one of the most popular of the city playgrounds (opened in 1893, covers about 44 acres). It occupies the site of a one-time parade- and drill-ground embraced within the Imperial Palace inclosure, and is celebrated locally for its splendid display of white, pink, red, and violet azaleas, which bloom late in April and are in their prime early in May. The finest groups arc in the S.W. corner, near the pretty fountain and lakelet (music by the military band Sunday afternoon).

Imperial Hold. '

One of the most interesting of the metropolitan structures faces Yuraku- cho and Hibiya Park in this Marunouchi Section, the unique and sumptuous Imperial Hotel (see p. Ill), a peculiarly pleasing ensemble of lava-stone, brick, hammered copper, glass, green tiles and whatnot, variously classified as the 'Jewel of the Orient'; a 'Superbly beautiful and noble prophecy'; a 'Symphony in brick and stone'; a 'Blending of the ideals of two civilisations/ etc. It is the work of native artisans acting under the supervision of an American architect, Mr. Frank Lloyd, Wright. It is 3 stories high, covera an area of 300 by 500 ft.; was completed in 1922 at a cost of more than 8$ million yen, and is a maze of terraces, loggias, porte-cocheres, turrets, inner gardens, glassed-in corridors and roof-garaens whence one gets delightful views over the city and the Palace grounds. It is exceptional in that every fitment of its interior (furniture, hangings, windows, bath- fixtures, radiators, lamp-globes, etc.) were specially designed and made for it. Oriental rugs to the value of $300,000 cover its tiled and wood floors, and rich coverlets of opulent yellow silk its comfortable beds and pillows.

The style of architecture is referred to as Old Japanese. Observant travelers will note in certain of its most salient features a striking resemblance to the strangely beautiful ruined Maya palaces of Palenque and Chi- chen-Itz&, buried deep in the silent, humid forests of the Mexican states of Campeche, Chiapas, and Yucatan. The first fugitive impression one receives is that it is a religious rather than a secular structure a Byzantine fane rather than a modern hotel. It needs only the addition of an Aztec Huil?ilopochdi or a colossal bronze Buddha with the patina of centuries on its impassive face to confirm this impression. In few of the city's structures have utility and a strangely appealing art been so happily blended, and few if any of them will remain so long impressed upon the alien mind.

The Main Entrance is approached over a semi-circular drive which skirts a drowsy lily pool whose calm waters reflect the dwarf pines, the azaleas and other semi-tropic flowers that flame* along its banks. Attractive additions are the lava-stone lanterns made after the Japanese fashion.

The salient architectural features of the exterior have been reproduced in the interior, where there are columns, ledges, winding tiled stairs and temple-like effects that again recall Byzantium and Uxmal. The lighting effects are peculiarly soft and suggestive. Many of the ostensibly solid pillars. arches and architraves conceal rows, and chains, groups and rosettes, of prismatic lights that beam out richly but softly, and recessively endow the nooks and lounges with a sort of Oriental enchantment. The dimmed and muted lights of the long, cloister-like halls impart a strong suggestion of monastcrial tranquillity and charm. Some of the patio gardens have fountains and flowers, and Moorish celosias are features of certain of the mezzanine galleries. The superb banquet-hall is the finest in the East, and is the predilection of Japanese officialdom of the imperial city. It ia cruciform, with a high central dome marked by ribbed vaulting, by wall decorations in which polychromatic peacocks and other attractive designs predominate.

The noteworthy Auditorium Theatre will seat 750 persons: more than a million yen were lavished on its decorations. Ornamental columnar lanterns

and daimyo lantern motifs in sculptured lava, add charm to its distinctively Nipponese character. Here native dramas, tragedies and dances that thrill the Japanese are frequently portrayed, along with comedies, moving pictures and western theatricals aimed to please the foreign guests.

When the great jishin of Sept. 1, 1923, threw Tokyo into a panic, the Imperial Hotel would have burned, as did many similar near-by structures, but for the efficient action of the distinguished manager, who leaped to the electric switch, and by cutting off the current, prevented fire from entering the building. _ The heat from without melted the window glass and threatened to disintegrate the entire structure, but it held as the staff worked heroically to ameliorate conditions inside. For days the hotel was a haven of refuge in a sea of fire. A host of homeless, hungry people were fed from its vast stores of provisions, along with members of the foreign embassies, who moved in and set up their offices. For his heroic and altruistic conduct the manager, Mr. T. Inumaru, was thanked and decorated by England, France, Italy and other European governments. He is a writer of note, and one of his books, The Management of Hotels, has

become the textbook of hotel managers throughout the Orient.

From where the wide, clean, and attractive Yaesucho (PI. F, 6) debouches on Yurakucho — which it intersects at right angles — one gets an extensive and satisfying view along the broad pebbly esplanade that sweeps straight up from the outer moat (where the Babasakimon formerly stood) to the Seimon gate of the Palace inclosure; here it branches to right and left and seems to encircle the frowning walls with its white, protecting arms. The vista is inspiring, and few Occidental cities can offer anything quite so pleasing as the white turrets with gracefully gabled and tiled roofs crowned by upturned dolphins, rising spectrally from the gray ramparts and serving as guard-houses or outposts of the palace beyond; nor the view of the copper-bronze, temple-like roofs which rise from amid the green trees beyond the moat and walls. The mediaeval flavor of the scene is as perfect as the contrast between the fortress and the modern structures which it overlooks — and keeps at a respectful distance — from its verdant scarps. Level greensward flecked with graceful pine trees flank the wide driveway at the right and left. From the nobly proportioned outer wall that here rises high above the broad (almost 200 ft.) moat, pend a number of the wonderfully gnarled and artistic pine trees ( Pinus parviflora) which impart such a decided and characteristic charm *to the landscape. The bronze monument to Kusunoki Masashige, in the park at the left, is described at p. 154. Yaesucho, with its big office buildings in the Cincinnati or Seattle style, has the most pronounced foreign aspect of any of the metropolitan streets and is significant of what the entire neighborhood will perhaps be a few years hence. Few things are more symptomatic of the modernizing and leveling influences that are constantly at work in the old Tycoon capital than these big upstanding symbols of commerce and wealth. In old Yedo the yashikis of the daimyos that once stood here and envisaged the sacred Palace inclosure, remained only on sufferance, and at the cost of complete self-abasement and cringing devotion. The present structures (regarded as vulgar anachronisms by the adherents of the old regime) are here by moral right and commercial advancement — a dual dominion which aids materially to soften the difference between the buildings and the grim old record of Tokyo's fighting past. The dissimilarity of these office-rookeries to the turreted outposts of the Imperial retreat is singularly apparent, but there is no trace of harshness. The impression one gains is that the old castle (which is frankly mediasval) really has no business in its modern environment!

In the Japanese mind the gnarled but sturdy, unbending pines that grow in the Imperial reserve on the grassy slopes beyond the rnoat, typify the strong Imperial will and fidelity to the people. In turn their pliancy and ever-loyal subjec tion are symbolized by the supple, lightly-poised willows that flank the Ios-> spiritual of t lie moat, and instantly bend to the slightest Impt/KrljAtsliihispering breeze from th(S sacred precinct.

Nippon Yusen Kaisha. TOKYO

A short distance N.E. of the Imperial Hotel, facing the broad and busy Yuraku-chO, is the Imperial Theater, on the site of the magnificent structure erected in 1911 and destroyed by the earthquake of 1923. It is one of the finest of the metropolitan play-houses, is in western style, richly decorated in the Japanese fashion, with special retiring apartments for the Imperial Family. Next door, and linked thereto by a subway, is the stately TOkyO Kaikan, semi-classical in design, of gray granite and cream brick, and housing one of the famous restaurants of the capital. Further along the street is the big, foreign-style. Jiji Building wherein are many offices and the headquarters of the Japan Wireless Telegraph Co., referred to in detail under Telegraph. Still further along, at the corner of the wide boulevard leading to the Central.Station at one side, and the Imperial Palace enclosure at the other, is the superb

Yusen Building, headquarters and home office of the famous Nippon Yusen Kaisha (Japan Mail Steamship Company), one of the world's greatest steamer lines, and widely and favorably known to travelers. It is the keystone in the arch of Japan's Mercantile Marine, and its phenomenal growth (from 40 or more ships in 1885 to 150 in 1928) and success are due to the extraordinary skill and foresight of its able executives; the generous policy of the company toward shippers and the traveling public; and the super-excellence of its ships, their equipment and their personnel. Prior to the formation of the N.Y.K. Line two small companies com-

Founded for business along the Japanese coast, The Mitsubishi Kaisha, established in 1871, and the Kyodo Unyu Kaisha, formed in 1882. An amalgamation of the two concerns resulted in 1885 in the formation of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha. At once the service was extended to other eastern countries (Korea, China, the Philippines, etc.), and in 1892 to India, and Australia. This opened the first regular Japanese steamship service with a distant, over-seas country. In 1896 the Yokohama-London-Antwerp Line, and the Hongkong-Japan-Seattle Line were inaugurated, along with a regular service between Japan, Manila and Australia. During the Great War, to aid the Allies, the ships of the N.Y.K. were sent to the far corners of the world, and thus was laid the foundation for its present splendid Round-t he- World Service, which includes practically everything excepting a line across the North Atlantic.

In 1920, with a paid-up capital of 58 million yen, a reserve of 77 millions; with 99 ships whose flags were known in every port of the world, and with a reputation for service and safety unsurpassed by any company- it looked, around for other worlds to conquer. Tentative offers were made to its greatest transpacific competitor, the Toyo Risen Kaisha, and in May, 1926, all the fine ships and the goodwill of that popular line blended into the N.Y.K. In 1928 its capital was over 100 million yen, and in addition to its magnificent fleet aggregating nearly 800,000 gross tons, several great motor ships of 16,500 tons each were being added to its transpacific service (between California and Japan), and 5 great motor ships, aggregating 40.000 tons, were in process of building to augment its Japan-Europe and other services.

To-day the familiar N.Y.K. ni-biki, or 'two bar' flag (with two horizontal red lines on a white ground) flies its friendly colors (adapted from the national ensign of the Rising Sun) in. every famous port of the world. It symbolizes large, clean, friendly and trustworthy ships splendidly manned and modernjy equipped; excellent and bountiful food prepared by experienced chefs trained in American hotels and Japanese clubs: individual service, and a genius for making travelers comfortable at sea. Every foreigner on an N.Y.K. ship is a distinguished guest, and to such the many unlooked-for, and unadvertised, native refinements are especially acceptable. National sports, the most famous Japanese dishes (in the form of little extras) served in beautiful lacquered bowls with sake and other bizarre goodies; wireless newspapers, good music, moving pictures, dances, a wealth of flowers and fine fruits, the best imported (English, American, etc.) eatables in abundance, are but a few of the things one finds on these ships, where everything is spotless.

Ships customarily bear the name of some city or country, with the mystical affix, maru (which means ' circularity; the division of a castle; a round thing; a sword,' etc at the muL

Central Rly. Station.

Dominating the Marunouchi District at the E. is the colossal Central Railway Station, a modern, commodious, steel, brick and concrete fire- and earthquake-proof structure in the so-called Renaissance style, 3 stories in height, 1104 ft. long, from 66 to 132 ft. wide, with twin copper-bronze-sheathed towers 124 ft. above the street. It was completed in 1914, cost 3 million yen, is the work of native craftsmen, and was so solidly constructed that the great earthquake of 1923 did not make a crack in it. It is the largest railway station in the Far East, and the nerve center of the (hard by) Railway Administration Bureau, whose powerful influence controls the railways of the Empire. Hundreds of trains pass in and out of it during the day, and it is by far the most conspicuous structure in the Marunouchi District.

The Railway Museum (Tetsudd Hakubutsukwan, open daily from 9 to 5), near the Central Station, contains upward of 10,000 articles relating to the history of railways in Japan, and is of particular interest to engineers and railway men. Traffic, Rolling Stock, Signals, Engineering, Freight handling, Chemistry, and a host of subjects with much information concerning them, are treated in* an attractive way. For the instruction of railway men (and others) moving pictures demonstrating practice, etc-, are shown on certain afternoons (usually Saturdays). All is free. Travelers are recommended to ask for information at the office of the Japan Tourist Bureau, in the Tokyo Central Station.

Northwest from the station the greatest development in the capital is in operation. Across the wide esplanade is the fine Marunouchi Building, with its attractive arcade, shops and offices. Near it is the stately Yusen Building, home office of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha, the greatest steamship line in the Orient, and one of the foremost of the world. Hard by are scores of office buildings that would be a credit to any city. Gray granite, marble, bronze and an air of great solidity and permanence are their salient characteristics. Broad streets and sightly boulevards excellently paved, add value and beauty to the district.

Many big foreign and Japanese companies have their offices hereabout, and in this largest properly defined business quarter of the metropolis one notes a markedly high degree of intelligence, mental alertness, spick-and- spanness and general prosperity.

The arrogant old shoguns and samurai with their swords and medieval ideas, would be sadly out of place in this hustling, good-natured, democratic stronghold where the East blends with the West, and typewriters, telephones, radios and automobiles replace the antiquated trappings of Old Japan. Each day adds a bit of change to the fast-vanishing Tokyo of Tokugawa times.

Overlooking the canal on the Ginza side of the district is the new Ginza Methodist Church, originally erected in 1912, destroyed by the 'quake of 1923, and reconstructed in 1928-29.

The Ginza (pron. gin'-zah — almost like the gin in begin), the great retail thoroughfare (PI. F, 6-7) of the city; the busiest, noisiest, unhandsomest, and most flamboyant of the metropolitan streets, is the best known of all to foreigners, by whom it is often called the Broadway of Tokyo. It derives its name from the, * mint for silver coins ' whiqh pnce faced it and

The Ginza.

which in turn was faced by a number of small shops of workers in silver. Relatively speaking it is a short section in the old Tokaido which anciently stretched from the famed Nihonbashi to Kyoto. It is supposed to include but four short blocks ( [Itchome, 1st; Nichome, 2d; Sanchome, 3d; and Shichome, 4th) between Owaricho (near Shimbashi station) and Kyobashi, albeit by extension it is (erroneously) believed to stretch from Shimbashi (bridge) to the Japan Bridge (and even beyond). In the early days what is now Owaricho was called Shimbashi- dori, but after the latter rose in its new character of brick and stone, from the ashes of the wooden structures burned in the big fire of 1872, it was called the New Town, and later bv its present name. The city records show that the ever-helpful paternal Gov't erected the first brick and stone houses here, in order to improve the archaic style of inflammable house and increase the immunity from fires, then rented or sold them on long-time payments.

As the greatest of the commercial arteries which traverse the metropolis from S.W. to N.E., Ginza with its prolongations is the least exclusively Japanese. It outstrips all the other streets in its cosmopolitanism, yet none offer a more comprehensive epitome of Old Japan. A double line of electric street-cars pulse through its center and add their din to the throng of jinrikis, push-carts, steam-kitchens, bicycles, motorcars, state carriages preceded by running and shouting footmen, and to the hurrying throng of busy commoners. Just now it is in a transitional stage, and its host of shops in the native and foreign style expose for sale almost everything from steam-engines to sea-weed, and from motor-cars to seed- pearls; a few of these shops are imposing, with representative stocks and attractive window displays — an art in which certain Japanese excel. The plate-glass fronts of some — filled with new-fangled Yankee notions or Brummagem oroide jewelry, with Parisian corsets and New England watches — excite the unrestrained wonder of the simple country yokels, who stand enthralled before them in much the same way as the uitlander does in front of the native shops. In both cases the observers can oftentimes only guess at the uses of many of the things exposed for sale, for Tokyo is the greatest retail center for native products in the Empire, and to this huge emporium come specimens of the wonderful handicraft of people from the remotest provinces. The human side of the Ginza is always interesting to tourists, and to the critical person unfamiliar with life in rural Japan, it is doubly so. In April and Sept., when the country farmers and their wives (not unfrequently in the Mormon sense of the word) are freed for a few brief days from the thraldom of their crops, they foregather here to see and to be seen; to enjoy a fugitive holiday in the gay capital, ancLto spend their last rin chaffering for Occidental

The Ginza.

dingle-dangles with which to while away the tedious hours at home and amaze their less fortunate townspeople. At these times perhaps more than at any other, the stranger is the most impressed by the sweeping democracy of the Japanese rustics in the matter of clothes — or the lack of them. To the untutored Western mind some of these honest, whole-souled, excellently ignorant clodhoppers escape being considered freaks only by the narrowest squeak, and that this estimate is cordially reciprocative, and is uppermost in the minds of the bumpkins themselves, is shown by their wide-eyed interest in some of the foreigners they encounter, and in their manifest efforts to keep their homely faces straight and the tears of laughter out of their bead-black eyes. The cordiality with which the East and the West commingle is one of the pleasing features of the street, the one discordant note being made by the light-fingered pickpockets (of which there is no dearth) who drift with the crowd and lose no opportunity to annex Western gewgaws and wallets. The kaleidoscopic throng which pulsates steadily along the Ginza from dawn to late at night — the wrestlers, jugglers, venders, geisha, and those that combine to form the Japanese proletariat — make up to the visitor for its unlovely newness. It is a joyous, colorful, naive, good-tempered, and easily pleased assemblage, plentifully sprinkled with adorable shaven- pated, brightly clad children; a strange but fascinating mingling of the new and the old. Colored lanterns, thousands of waving ideographic banners, and a host of shop-signs almost as artistically satisfying as the stocks they advertise, all contribute to the general animation. Many of the Japanese still keep step with the old rdgime and scrupulously adhere to the fast- vanishing customs of feudal days. An occasional grave, dignified samurai descendant may sometimes be seen picking his way gingerly along the street, his mind on the past but with a prudent, apprehensive eye on the on-rushing trolleys and the speeding motor-ears. Scores of the old observances still prevail, and scarcely a week passes that one may not see some sort of a mediaeval procession wending its flamboyant way across the metropolis, in a blaze of color and to the sound of wild minstrelsy. These are most frequent in the vicinity of the big temples and shrines which the traveler with time to spare will do well to seek out. While certain among them are tinselly and devoid of great interest, others are strangely attractive, and suggest an amazing amount of thought and ingenuity. Where the festival symbolizes a daimyo procession or something of the sort, the bewilderingly beautiful costumes are as rich and varied as those seen at high-priced theaters, and the onlooker is transported back centuries into the heyday of the extravagant Genroku, or some such historic period, now immortalized

by the hallowing effect of the fleeting years. Even the funeral processions attract and hold the attention by their oddity.

The Ginza,

Certain of the costumes of the Buddhist and Shintd priests are extraordinarily attractive, particularly those worn on state occasions. A cleric in full canonicals never fails to strike a picturesque note in any surroundings.

The somewhat freakish architecture of the houses which face the Ginza and its prolongations is merely expressive of a naive striving for something foreign and better than the squat little structures which for so long have characterized this street. Japanese ideas of foreign styles find bizarre expression here, and scarcely an architectonic feature is wanting in some of the restless edifices which stand cheek by jowl with, and tower superciliously above, the modest little places of the more conservative element. There is almost as much irregularity as on Broadway, New York. Size without majesty, individuality divorced from all dignity or simplicity, and convenience rather than fitness or sobriety are the salient characteristics of this structural hodge-podge. Ginza is considered the* show street ' of Tokyo, but right now it show's conclusively that whenever the Japanese disobey the spiritual warnings of their own unique and transcendentally beautiful art, and rashly borrow from alien sources, they commit solecisms of which the foreigner finds it hard to believe them guilty. Here and there along Che Japanese Broadway one sees the suggestion of a fine effect, but only a suggestion. Anywhere but in Japan, with its surging, colorful national life, it would be considered ordinary. As it is, the lack of academic restraint in the showy exteriors of some of the larger structures is strangely at variance with one's preconceived ideas of Japanese masterfulness in art. Shoulder to shoulder with rickety, wreather-beaten relics of feudal days, or abutting against florid examples of a remote frontier type, one sees new, so-called foreign style edifices flaunting the fag ends of half a dozen semi-classical styles; the whole so inharmonious in its smug complacency, and so viciously offensive in its personality that the entire neighborhood seems poisoned or tainted by its unmitigated materialism. Not a few have been supplied with modern fagades to mask a mediaeval torso, and usually the windows stare out like lid less eyes gazing into a hopeless future. The fronts of certain houses are covered with porcelain; not the beautiful polychrome tiles which impart such charm to domes and seigniorial mansions in Moorish Spain, — and which the Japanese know so well how to make, — but garish colors that affect the nerves like a shriek, and which split their way through the landscape and browbeat everything in the neighborhood. The exquisite taste which the Japanese display so abundantly in their daily life and its appurtenances does not here extend to the shop fagades.

It is the merchandise displayed in the shops, and the people who buy it, that rescue Ginza, from mediocrity; for costumes and customs vary with lajinost every individual, a and almost

The Ginza.

every person one meets forms some kind of a pictorial unit in a satisfying kaleidoscopic whole. So interesting are they that the most critical traveler finds scant time to condemn the architectural medley. After nightfall, Ginza is converted into one of the most picturesque districts in the city; during certain festival periods (usually the 7th, 18th, and 29th of each month) itinerent vendors establish themselves along the outer edge of the sidewalks and spread out quite alluring displays of old bronzes, wood-cut prints, miscellaneous curios, second-hand books, and a host of sweets, eatables, and knick-knacks which they sell by the light of flaring torches or daintily decorated paper lanterns. It is then that darkness mercifully softens the outlines of the hybrid structures, and with the thousands of lights like dancing glowworms, Japan reasserts itself in its fairy-like fascination.

At the nondescript Kyobashi (bridge) the Ginza bends slightly toward the N.W., broadens, and merges its tumultuous identity with Minamidemma-cho, which, with Nakabashi and Tori-cho (its prolongations), cross the dividing-line between Kyobashi-ku and Nihonbashi-ku, and traverse the 15 or more short blocks intervening between it and the famous Japan Bridge. Just at the left of the Kyobashi one of the largest of the city's vegetable markets flanks the busy canal and offers many picturesque sights in the early morning. The host of strange and un poetic vegetables are not without interest to those concerned in the Far Eastern Leguminosce, while the crush of quaint junks on the canal and the odd costumes of the bumpkins who pilot them hither furnish endless materials for writer or artist. Beyond the Kyobashi, the street crush is even greater than on Ginza proper, and to relieve it, a clean and attractive little street called Nakadori ('interior st.'), bearing practically the same relation to it that Nassau does to New York's Broadway, parallels it at the right (E.) along its entire length. It is through this smoothly swept, narrow artery that the jinriki-runners usually dart on their cross-town scampers, and here stand many of the small but beguiling curio-shopa that have been crowded off the main st., or which await their turn to squeeze into it. Rents are considerably cheaper here than on the Ginza or its extensions. Here, along the converging byways of this greatest of Far Eastern capitals, old Yedo sometimes asserts itself, and the winsome life of the early days pulsates in its harmony of color and picturesqueness. In some of these streets, the real Nipponese flavor is still retained, unmarred by the faintest smooch of unpliant Occidental uniformity. Imbued with the faith and the mental tranquillity and joyousness derived from the gentle teachings of the Bua- dhist and Shinto creeds; apparently oblivious of the hurried and soul-crushing strenuosity of the adjacent thoroughfares, many of the-dwelleirs hereabout pursue the even tenor of the

The Nihonbashi.

ancient ways, surrounded by symbols of the old and cherished traditions, and living the lives of their forebears in much of their pristine simplicity.

The commercial activity of the city may be said to reach its height in the immediate vicinity of the new and stately Nihonbashi, whence it radiates up the converging streets, with a manifest trend toward Uyeno at the N. Near this important mercantile focus are a few modest sky-scrapers; some of the largest of the city banks; the central post-office; the largest of the metropolitan department stores; and one of the greatest fish-markets in the Empire. The architectural hodge-podge is the same as that we have just left, but the extreme animation and Venetian flavor of the region offset it. The canal which flows beneath the bridge is one of the widest and busiest in the city, and the incessant movement of the archaic boats and their people are of unfailing interest. Old color-prints of the Nihonbashi ('Japan,' or * Sunrise Bridge') show it as being smaller and narrower than the present structure, and to have been made of wood, arched like the half of a huge drum, and with its wood posts surmounted by ornamental bronze giboshu — the still popular adornments for bridges and temple railings throughout Japan. • In the old days palanquins occupied the place of the present jinriki, and many of the pictures in question show them being carried across the quaint old structure. At the far end rose the customary ladder-like fire-tower with its lookout or crow's nest and bell, where watchmen constantly searched the sea of roofs for the dreaded ' Yedo Flower.' The original of this most celebrated of all the metropolitan bridges was constructed in 1603, and the present one, standing on the site of a wooden bridge built in 1872 and demolished in 1907, is 13th of the dynasty. It is a solid and attractive structure of gray, black-speckled granite, in the Renaissance style, 162 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, with additional 12 ft. sidewalks on each side, and was completed in 1911 at a cost of 523,890 yen. The winged griffins and other ornamental bronze figures which enrich the candelabra are after Japanese and European designs, by Japanese artists. The name, Nihonbashi, engraved on the stone pillar, is a facsimile of the chirography of Prince Tokugawa Keiki, last in the line of the Tokugawa shogunate. A pleasing and significant ceremony marked the official opening ( watarizome, or 'first crossing') of the bridge, April 3, 1911. As it symbolized the oldest structure built in the neighborhood by human hands, and by a logical sequence was supposed to possess a special affinity for those addicted to longevity, it seemed fitting that after Prince Tokugawa had crossed it, the next to follow should be the person who had lived the longest in the immediate vicinity. Therefore, Mrs. Kojima Fusa, a sprightly lady 109 years young, tripped daintily after him, and following her went several frivolous young sprigs, ranging from

,

The Edobashi.

81 to 89 years. All were accompanied by vociferous banzai (' hurrah'; 'ten thousand years') shouted from thousands of throats. A glittering procession representing ancient daimyos. samurai, and other swaggering blades; one of brilliantly clad geisha and similar light-hearted folk, and a few minor groups followed, amid unrestrained rejoicing.

The Nihonbashi is known throughout Japan by all classes, and it is almost as much a feature of the Empire as the Emperor himself. Few are the cities and towns that do not possess at least one copy or miniature of it. All the roads of the main island of Hondo are supposed to terminate here, just as those of ancient Italy led to Rome. Distances are calculated from it, and all the old daimyo processions which came here from Kyoto and beyond after Ieyasu made Yedo his seat of gov't, started from the bridge on their return. As the original starting point of the Tokaido, it is number one in Hiroshige's 53 celebrated views of the old highway. It has always been the favorite theme of the wonderful color-print makers of Japan, as well as that of artists in other lines. Criminals always regarded the bridge with abhorrence, as their heads sometimes adorned its approaches as warnings to other miscreants. A famous rest-house, often mentioned in history, once stood at the S.E. corner, where the land is now considered the most valuable in the city. A short distance W.*of Nihonbashi is Gofukubashi ('dry-goods bridge'), beyond which, to the S.W., is the big Central Railway Station.

A short walk E. of Nihonbashi, and visible therefrom, is Edobashi ('Yedo bridge'), the important junction of several fluvial thoroughfares, and quite near the busy Kabuto-cho. Here stands the Stock Exchange which gives the district its name, 'the Japanese Wall Street.' The great native staples, sugar, silk, and rice, and less tangible stocks and bonds, are the commodities dealt in chiefly here and at the Produce Exchange near by, where some of the keenest brains of Japan are pitted against each other, and a sort of pandemonium reigns during certain hours of the day. The fine modern building just around the corner from the Central Post-Office, which also stands here, is the Dai-Ichi Ginko, a power in the financial vvorld. The Mitsui Family — the Astors of Japan — own considerable property hereabout, where nearly all the offices are occupied by brokers and speculators.

Between the Nihonbashi and the Edobashi is a row of red brick godowns with their back doors opening out on the canal. They are the most important Salt-Fish Warerooms in Japan and are the largest distributing-point of the much prized Pacific salmon ( Oncorhynchus ) for which N. Japan is celebrated. About Nov. 1 of each year, shiploads of dried and salted salmon (shake, or sake ) begin to arrive here, and the fish are distributed broadcast over the city and the South, as far

Bank of Japan.

as Manchuria and the distant interior of China. Upward of 130 million lbs. valued approximately at 7 million yen pass through this great mart during the winter season, at which time there is an incessant demand for the pinkish-orange flesh of the 5-10 lb. salmon. At times the street is piled high with mounds of the briny, ill-smelling carcases, and hundreds of sakanaya (fishmongers) may be seen counting them in sing-song tones or transferring them by means of hand-hooks from the piles to waiting carts. Along toward the New Year the demand increases; it reaches its acme Dec. 31, at which time many thousands of the fish change hands. Salmon forms the favorite New Year's gift and is sent as a Seibo no shugi, or congratulatory present in commemoration of the felicitous ending of the old year. The custom is so strong that great personal sacrifices are made in order to observe it.

Just across the canal from this fish exchange is another big fish-market where in the early morning piscine types almost as varied and as beautiful as those at the marvelous Naples Aquarium may be seen. The neighborhood reeks of fish, and many canal-boats load with them here and convey them to other quarters of the city. Beyond Nihonbashi the thoroughfare bends to the left and runs between flanking lines of new business houses, more in keeping with the solid wealth of the environs. Perhaps the most modern of these structures is the big Mitsukoshi Department Store, completed in 1914, and representative of what new Tokyo is to be. The huge officebuilding at the rear, in Suruga-cho, houses the Tokyo headquarters of the rich and powerful Mitsui Bussan Kaisha, with its manifold interests — ships, coal-mines, docks, realty, etc. Immediately behind the Mitsukoshi is the Tokyo branch of the Yokohama Specie Bank, and, facing it, the stately Nippon Ginko, or Bank of Japan, where the Imperial treasure is stored, and which bears practically the same relation to Japan that the Bank of England does to Great Britain. The wealthy owners of the region contiguous to the bank propose to make here a model quarter along Occidental lines, and thus show the rest of Tokyo what it ought to do.

The Bank of Japan, a limited liability institution in which the Imperial Gov't is heavily interested, was established by an Imperial Ordinance June 27, 1882, with an original capital of ten million yen; in 1887 this was raised to 20, in 1895 to 30, and recently to 60 millions. It receives and disburses State funds, issues its own notes and affects the finances of the Empire when it adjusts its discount rate. Gold and silver bullion to the value of 300 million yen are sometimes stored in its strong, guarded vaults. The semi-classical, gray granite structure, of the Composite order, which houses it, is after the plans of Prof. Tatsuno; the entrance forms three sides of a handsome rectangular court adorned with symmetrical Tuscan columns. The interior treatment of the severely plain, dignified, and attractive structure is disappointing.,

Just beyond Nihonbashi, at the right, is the small and narrow Anjin-cho, where Will Adams lived. The region roundabout

Russian Church.

was anciently one of Tokyo'a worst slums, the abode of beggars, rag-pickers, street- musicians, and thieves. To-day the land ranks with the most valuable in the capital. — JukkendanaKaji-cho, Torishingoku-cho, and Suda-cho are the names by which the thoroughfare is known between Nihonbashi and Shoheibashi ('guard-bridge '), at the right of which is the important Manseibashi ('turnip-bridge ') — about 2 M. from Shimbashi. Uyeno Park is about 1 M. distant. At the left is the new Shoheibashi terminus of the Central Rly., which comes to this point through Kanda and other wards. The new station, in the Renaissance style, contains 2 million bricks, 20,000 granite blocks, 180 tons of steel and considerable marble and bronze, and was completed (after designs by Prof. Tatsuno ) in 1912 at a cost of ¥300,000. The Bronze Monument facing it is one of the finest in Tokyo and was unveiled in May, 1910; the bronze statues are after the design of Prof. Takamura Kount of the Academy of Fine Arts. The life-size figure surmounting the shaft is that of the brave Commander Hirose who nobly sacrificed his life in a vain effort to rescue a non- commisioned officer during the memorable marine night attack on Port Arthur during the Russian War. The dauntless figure, in a pose of stress, courage, and determination, stands beside a signaling-lever, and holds a binocular telescope in his left hand. Thrown round the shaft is a bronze chain and anchor, and leaning against it, in a crouching position, with a long-handled chopping-axe grasped in his right hand, is the figure of the heroic but unfortunate officer. Both mutely express the un-' questioned courage of the race, and both happened to be unusually conspicuous figures in a titanic struggle in which many of the participants were heroes of a high order. — A Bhorfc walk up at the left of the station, through a region of inns and curio-shops, brings one to Surugadai and the Russian Cathedral, perhaps the oldest of the metropolitan churches.

The Russian Orthodox Church, or Greek Cathedral, known locally as Nicolai, from the name of its founder, occupies a commanding position on Surugadai Heights, in Kanda-ku, and is a landmark in the neighborhood. It is Russian in character with a Byzantine touch that adds material! y to its picturesqueness. It was founded in 1871 by a zealous, and in several ways remarkable, Russian priest called Iran, or Nicolai, who came to Hakodate in 1860, when 21 yrs. old, and, fired with religious ardor, began forthwith to devote his life and energy to the aggrandizement of the Greek Church in the Empire. Its growth, in Japan is inseparably associated with his name. The present cathedral, begun in 1884 and completed in 1891 at a cost of 178,000 yen, has a dome 115 ft. high, a belLtower 125 ft., and an interior (shaped like a Greek cross, with clipped transepts) containing a number of beautiful gold icons and various oil paintings depicting the customary Cristus, the Theotokos ('Mother of God'), and scenes in the lives of various saints. The iconostasis is quite elaborate for so modest a structure, with rich gilding that recalls certain of the majestic re redos of Churriguera. There are 20 medallions and portraits in oil on the right wing, and an equal number on the left, with 27 additional ones on the insweep conducting to the bema or sanctuary; all are by Russian painters. The curious icon at the left, in the form of a reclining Christ, is worth looking at. The vestments in the diaconicon (sacristy) are rich and handsome. The largest of the forty or jnore pictures

Imperial Palace.

*

(representing martyrs in the cause of Christ and humanity) which adorn the inner side of the dome — the Descent of the Holy Spirit, the Resurrection, the Lord's Supper, and the Ascension — are by Uhanuff. and were presented to the church by a pious woman of St. Petersburg. Iu obedience to the needs of the adherents of the church, the ritual is in Japanese, and the natives make the allusive signs of the faith as if born to them. The record left by Archbishop Nicolai when he died (Feb. 16, 1912, aged 76) is perhaps unique in the annals of modern missionary work. During his long life in Japan he founded 174 missions and churches counting a membership of 30,000. Thousands of mourners followed his coffin to the grave (which was decorated with wreaths sent by the Emperor and the Empress), and the procession was more than a mile long. The chief actor in the impressive Jubilee service held in the cathedral some months prior to this event, was an ex-samurai who many years ago tried to assassinate the young priest, in the belief that his religion would harm his countrymen. The saintly man argued with him and converted him from a would-be murderer to a lifelong friend.

After passing Manseibashi, the thoroughfare loses much of its activity and ephemeral charm, along with its name. Hence to Uyeno Park it is known as Gokencho and is flanked by nondescript houses which call for no particular mention beyond the fact that they show an indifference to antiquity or beauty. Certain of the shops cater to foreigners, as is shown by the oad signs the critical eye picks out: Umbrella & Co.; Milk Snop; Barber Shot; Advertising Agent & Undertaker; Traunks & Bugs; and the like. Westernized symbols in crippled Romaji are numerous. There is little to relieve the studied uniformity of the huddle of little gray, weather-stained houses until one nears the fine Uyeno Park; here the street becomes livelier, and bazaars and toy-shops filled with fanciful and curious things which are expected to appeal to travelers alighting in the Uyeno Station, and to sight-seers visiting the park, alternate with pretentious restaurants and show places. The largest of the bazaars is the Teikoku-hakuhin-kwan. Foreign food at reasonable prices can be had in the Seiyoken Hotel, just within the park entrance, at the left.

The Imperial Palace and Neighborhood.

The Imperial Palace (gosho ), or Castle ( O-shiro ); the Imperial Residence and the chief palace of the Tokugawa shogunate until the Restoration of the present Imperial Dynasty, stands near the N.W. center of the capital, in Kojimachi Ward (PI. E-F, 5) on an elevated site which was once the geographical center of the capital, and from which all distances were computed. As the political and intellectual center of the Empire, the Japanese regard it with unusual reverence; the public is rigorously excluded, and only those who are granted the Imperial favor are admitted within its sacred precincts.

The Palace and its appurtenances are under the jurisdiction of the Imperial Household Department, and travelers with requests to make of the latter must first apply to their minister or ambassador, who in turn will perhaps refer them to the Foreign Office. If one's credentials are strong enough, one is provided with a letter to the proper official in the dep't, and a small, stamped, ideographic wood ticket ( monkan ) which must be shown to the guard (admittance is refused without it, and tips are useless) at the iron-

Imperial Palace.

studded Sakashilamon (gate) about 1 M. N. of the Main Gate at the Niju- bashi. The ticket must be retained and shown on leaving; then returned to whomsoever has supplied it. The Office of General Affairs ( Somuka ), where the visitor usually presents himself, stands just within the gate at the left, near the big fountain with its wide basin. English spoken.

The original castle, which was long known as the Yedo Castle ( Edo-jd ), was erected late in the 15th cent, by Ota Dokwan from whose descendants it was later wrested by the Hojof afterwards to pass into the hands of Tokugawa Ieyasu. It comprised a main, middle, and outer castle, surrounded by miles of moats and stone walls, which in turn were pierced by 25 gates supplemented by drawbridges. The numerous watch- towers and fortifications are naively referred to by historians as not so much defenses against possible enemies as lines of demarcation between the merchants and the samurai. Tokugawa Ieyasu razed portions of the ancient structures and built for himself (between 1596 and 1614) a redoubtable stronghold which at a later period came to be known as the West Castle; he constructed a triple line of moats, the outermost 9 M. in length, and backed them by scarps of colossal granite blocks each brought (by sea) from Hyogo 375 M. away. The gates, the towers, and all the fortifications were of such massive proportions as to ' constitute one of the most stupendous works ever undertaken, not excepting even the pyramids of Egypt. Above the immense masses of masonry rose lofty banks of earth, their slopes turfed with fine Korean grass, and their summits planted with pine trees, trained, year after year, to stretch evergreen arms toward the spacious moats. These moats varied in width from 22 to 170 yards, and through them flowed broad sheets of water, reaching the city by aqueducts cunningly planned from a river 20 M. distant; as evidence of Japanese engineering skill unassisted by foreign science, these conduits are scarcely less remarkable than the castle itself. In this combination we have an example of the homage to the beautiful that holds every Japanese a worshiper at Nature's shrine even when he seems to rely most implicitly on his own resources of brain and muscle. Placid lakes lapping the feet of stupendous battlements; noble pines bending over their own graceful reflections in still waters; long stretches of velvety sward making a perpetual presence of rustic freshness among the dust and moil of city life; flocks of soft-plumaged wild-fowl placidly sailing in the moats or sunning themselves on the banks, careless of the tumult and din of the streets overhead; sheets of lotus-bloom glowing in the shadow of grim counterscarps — where but in Japan could be found so deliberate and so successful an effort to convert the frowns of a fortress into the smiles of a garden? This castle of the Tokugawa Regents was a portion of the alphabet by which Japanese character could (and can) be read. Hidden beneath a passion for everything graceful and refined, there is a strong yearning for the

pageant of war and for the dash of deadly onset, and just as the shogun sought to display before the eyes of the citizens of his capital a charming picture of gentle peace, though its setting was a framework of vast military preparation, so the Japanese of every era has loved to turn from the fencing-school to the armor, from the field of battle to the society of the rockery and the cascade, delighting in the perils and struggles of the one as much as he admires the grace and repose of the other. There is not to be found elsewhere a more striking monument of military power, nor can any one considering such a work refuse to credit the Japanese with capacity for large conceptions and competence to carry them into practice.* (Brinkley.)

Within the spacious walls, which anciently covered a much wider area than at present, and round which the city gradually grew, were the dwellings of the more powerful daimyos ana their numerous retainers, with wide open spaces upon which many of the houses of present-day Tokyo stand. The Shogun Hidetada added to the vast work much of which was destroyed by the great fire of 1873. For many years thereafter, and while the present Palace was building, the Emperor dwelt in a provisional palace which stood where the present palace of the Crown Prince stands. There are a number of wells in the enceinte, and the Palace with its gardens form a self-contained whole. The Fukiage Landscape Garden, in the formal Japanese style, is the finest in Japan, with quaint lakelets, charming bridges and paths, lotus-pools, wandering peacocks and cranes, etc. From the highest point, Momijiyama, or Maple Hill, one looks across a beautiful stretch studded with splendid giant forest trees and others wonderfully dwarfed; over plots where are assembled hundreds of specimens of indigenous flora as well as others from the neighboring continent, and to bowers to which years of care of the best arboral- ists in Japan have been devoted. — Near the E. moat stands the Central Meteorological Observatory, whence daily Weather reports are telegraphed to all parts of the Empire.

The chief Divisions of the Palace (completed in 1889 at a cost of 4 million yen) are known as Hommam (Main Castle, or Inner Citadel) and Nishi no Maru (West Castle). One story in height, constructed (in the pure Nipponese style) originally of light buff-colored wood now considerably weather-beaten, with many graceful gables and eaves decorated richly in brilliant greens and blues, with polychromatic symbols and conventionalized flowers, they suggest palatial residences rather than fortresses. The general effect produced by the many angles and the copper-bronze roof glowing with a rich patina is that of a fine temple converted into a dwelling. The regal interior of the main structure is planned on Japanese lines, but modified to meet the requirements of cosmopolitan Court life.

Imperial Palace,

Steam heat has replaced the illusive hibachi. The exquisite joinery, the sliding screens faced with highly polished mirrors, the beautiful native brocades, and the European furniture, suggest a pleasing blend of the Orient and Occident. The floors are of selected hard woods from the Imperial forests. In certain of the apartments, orange and cedar are employed in conjunction with splendid embossed leather-like paper carrying flowing patterns of ivory and gold. The heavily beamed ceilings are coffered in places, each sunken panel enriched with decorations similar to those in the Kyoto Palace. Some of the finest modern work in gold lacquer is here seen in the various panels showing animals, birds, flowers, landscapes, and the like. The Audience Room or Main Hall ( Sei-den ), often referred to as the Howo-no-ma because of the phoenixes which form a part of the gorgeous decoration, is where the Emperor receives his ministers and the foreign ambassadors, and no one is admitted beyond unless honored with a special audience. So exclusive are some of the apartments that none but the nearest relatives of the sovereign or the Empress are ever accorded the privilege of entering them. The Imperial Sanctuary, or Kashiko-dokoro (familiarly called Chiyoda-jo, or Tokyo-jo), where the Emperor worships the shades of his ancestors, occupies a large hall constructed of cream-white knotless timbers, polished as smooth as mirrors and devoid of decoration. The chastely beautiful Shinto Shrine, also of similar wood with delicately chased silver fitments, incloses a model of the sacred mirror and the usual Shinto furniture; flanking it are two smaller shrines; one dedicated to all the Imperial ancestors since Jimmu Tenno; the other to the chief deities of the Shinto pantheon. The floor is covered with fine straw mats bordered with white damask; the bamboo curtains carry the Imperial crest. — The private reception room of the Empress is hung in crimson silk. — The Imperial dress in private life is white silk. The old Kyoto dialect is in use in the inner life of the Court.

Of the several Gates (most of which date from the big fire of 1657) the best known to the casual traveler is the Seimon or Main Gate, at the S.E. corner of the inclosure; a massive, iron- studded structure (opened only on special occasions), with a postern, a penthouse, and a guard. The twin bridgesNiju- bashi ), when seen from a certain angle, look like a single bridge with two passageways. Visitors usually enter the Palace grounds through the Sakashitamon, farther along the moat toward the N. The Babasakimon which prior to the Japan- Russia War spanned the outer moat about J M. to the E. of the Seimon, was razed because it was too small to admit the passage of a throng at one time; its demolition was hastened fey a fatal crush which occurred during a demonstration at the close of the war referred to. Coincidently the road leading to

Imperial Palace.

the Seimon was widened, as was also the broad Gaisendo (Road of Triumph) which flanks the Palace moat on the E. and commemorates the great struggle between the Japanese and the Muscovites. The region hereabout is called Marunouchi ('inside the castle walls '); upward of one hundred thousand persons of all ages and sects knelt here in endless rows on the night of July 29, 1912, praying for the late Emperor who lay dying within the Palace. The Sakuradamon ('cherry-village gate ') at the S. with its big penthouse and massive iron fitments, is associated in the native mind with the assassination (comp. p. 22) of Ii Kamon no Kami the last of the Tokugawa Premiers. Both the gates (the inner and outer one) are known by the same name. The corresponding gate at the N.E. corner of the inclosure is called Wadakuramon.

The Moats ( hori ) which defend the inclosure are much less extensive than in former times, and almost every year sees a section of them capitulate to commercial advancement; the outer moat at the rear of the Palace grounds is now threaded by. an electric tramway, and other sections are being filled in. The fresh water, which is brought from the Tonegawa, is of varying levels (there is a slight current), and ranges in depth from 4 to 10 ft., and in width from 50 to 200 ft. Sections of the surface are thickly covered with magnificent lotus-blossoms in late summer, when they present an inspiring sight. From time out of mind the deeper, quieter reaches of the vast trenches have been the breeding-grounds for wild geese, ducks, and other aquatic birds, and before the city acquired steam railways and smoking factories (which frightened many of the water-fowl away) there came here as regularly as the seasons scores of storks, herons, and sw ans, to impart to the moats a scene of unusual grace and beauty. The traveler who chances to cross Marunouchi on almost any crisp morning in winter may witness a sight characteristic of the city life of the gentle, beauty-loving Nipponese. From one side or the other of the Palace there comes a vast quacking or a musical honking followed by the whirring and beating of heavy wings, and soon flock after flock of iridescent wild ducks or fat geese ( gan ) swing into view and fly to and fro across the park or drift slowly back to some favorite feeding-ground on the moat, thrilling the startled stranger with the unexpected charm of the scene.

Back from the clear green waters of the gigantic inner trench rise imposing slopes from 20 to 50 ft. high, with a glacis from 50 to 200 ft. covered with lawn-like grassy turf and parapets of fantastic evergreen pines that take the most curious horizontal directions and the most capriciously twisted shapes, as they bend and sway and give fancy and artistic charm to the moats and walls. 'On bright sunny days the silhouettes of their tortuous branches are mirrored in the still waters, and on calm

TOKYO Crown Prince* s Palace.

moonlight nights, when the stars and the lanterns of the runners tremble in the dark and silent depths, they stretch their great muscular arms protectingly above them.' Not a few of these huge trees were living witnesses of the last great events of the shogunal days, and they add to the mysterious solemnity which broods above this splendid old relic of a vanished past.

The cyclopean Walls themselves, of remarkable massivity, besides ranking among the finest things in Tokyo, are among the best examples of this type of architecture in the Empire. Formed of colossal blocks of undressed stone upward of 3 ft. thick, 6 ft.wide, and 16 ft. long; fashioned into ramparts from 25 to 60 ft. high, broken here and there by solid spurs which give them a new direction, but which always present a grim and formidable front to the outsider, they are wholly admirable, with the spreading moats at their feet and the pine trees above. Although laid without mortar, the huge polygonal blocks fit against one another with the nice precision of decorated tiles, their great jagged points running far back into the earth and becoming almost an integral part of it. Anciently when Tsukiji and Kydbashi-ku were half-sub merged swamps, the sea washed the outer walls of the enceinte, the land having been reclaimed by leveling Kan da Hill and by filling in. The inner wall (ni no mam) is finer than the outer ( san no maru)f whole sections of which have been demolished to make way for new streets. Whitewashed stone pavilions raise their curved roofs at angles of the escarpment and impart the effect of a castle. The well-advised traveler will walk quite around the inclosure, for only in this way may he get a correct idea of its size and the beauty of its defenses.

Facing the E. front of the Palace grounds is an extensive park which once formed the Palace esplanade; near the center of the S. section stands a noteworthy equestrian monument on a handsome granite base, erected (in 1898) by Sumitomo Kichizaemon (a Japanese copper magnate) to the undying memory of General Kusunoki Masashige, a mediaeval hero whom the Japanese regard as the essence of loyalty to the throne and unselfish devotion to the fatherland. The quadrangular pedestal (which rises from a granite plinth encircled by stone pillars) is enriched with a chaste and beautiful key- pattern string course. The heroic figure is clad in ancient armor and is the personification of stress and courage; the bronze ideographic slab refers to the erection of the monument. — Surrounding the Palace inclosure are several parks, the chief gov't buildings, many of the foreign embassies and legations, several schools, churches, shrines, and other places hereinafter described.

The Crown Princf/s Palace stands a short distance to the W. of the Imperial Palace, in Akasaka Ward, whence the oom-

Kudan Hill.

mon name of Akasaka Palace. The structure, from which strangers are debarred, is built of fine Italian marble and native gray granite, after the general style of the palace at Versailles, and was designed by Mr. Katayama, a Japanese arcliitect who studied at the Parisian £cole des Beaux Arts. The interior decorations and fitments are French. The building (completed in 1913) stands far back from the street, in a wide inclosure surrounded on 3 sides by high stone walls and defended in front by an elaborate iron grill. The most conspicuous features are the groups — at each side of the main entrance — of gilded phoenixes.

Kudan Hill, with its famous shrine and museum, stands at the N.W. corner of the Palace grounds, in Kojimachi-ku, and is one of the most interesting as well as elevated spots in the city. Approaching it along the wide, populous, and upward- sloping Kudan-zaka (PI. F, 4) — the Broadway of Kanda Ward — one reaches the crest of the hill at the Tayasumon (gate) of the Palace, where the barracks [the noon gun is fired here] of the Imperial bodyguard is located. Flanking the entrance (left) is a tall bronze statue on a beautiful granite base, erected to the memory of Viscount Shinagawa, a statesman, patriot, one of the builders of New Japan, and a member (ennobled after the Restoration) of a samurai family of the Yamaguchi Clan. The smaller monument near by commemorates the late General Kawakami, chief of the Staff Office durinr the Japan-Russia War. The tall, bayonet-shaped shaft on a rusted iron base stands to the memory of the soldiers of the Imperial bodyguard who died (while fighting on the loyalists' side) during the Satsuma Rebellion. The bizarre building just across the roadway, with a stone lighthouse in the yard, is a Military Club; the beacon was long a guiding light for the junks which sailed up Yedo Bay. The views over the city from this point are fine.

The Yasukuni-jinja ('shrine which safeguards the tranquillity of the Empire'), known also as Shokonsha (Chinese: sho, invite; kon, spirit; sha, temple), or 'Spirit-Invoking Shrine,' a Shinto sanctuary dedicated to all the soldiers who have fallen in the wars since the Restoration, stands far back on the hill, about ⅛ M. from the pebble-strewn campus at the top of Kudan-zaka. Two handsomely sculptured stone lanterns flank the entrance. The deeply cut characters on the tall square shaft at the right give the name and rank of the shrine, and advise that it is under Imperial protection. The two huge stone Dogs of Fo at the right and left, on massive stone bases, are war-prizes brought hither from China at the close of the war in 1895. The lines of stone lanterns which flank the campus on either side were presented to the shrine (in 1878) by different daimyos. The tall bronze monument (erected in 1882) on a cylindrical base midway of the esplanade, surrounded by an iron fence

designed to represent arrows, and sentineled by a number of dismounted cannon, stands to the memory of Omura Masujiro (whose statue crowns the pedestal), a heroic and prominent figure of the Restoration. He it was who instructed the samurai of Choshu in the military arts, and during the war which preceded the Imperial Restoration, he fought against the shogun at Yedo and Wakamatsu — later pacifying the N.E. region of Hondo Is. When he had been appointed Vice-Minister of War (Hyobu-tayu), and was diligently reorganizing the army, he was assassinated (Nov. 8, 1869) along with five of his officers. The striking figure (better than certain other bronze statues in Tokyo) is interesting in that it was the first bronze statue to be erected to a Japanese in the Empire.

During the lively festivals of May 4-8 and Nov. 5-7, a host of jugglers, wrestlers, and others erect peep-shows, shops, and other catch-penny devices here, and by means of thimblerigging and similar sly practices succeed in wheedling considerable money from the country bumpkins who then frequent the place. An immense and noisy crowd drifts up and down the long campus at these times, and occasionally space is cleared for wire-rope walking, a horse-race, or historic dances. The soldiers who come in throngs give thanks at the shrine for some military victory, or do honor to the memory of comrades killed in the Russian War. Across the street from the S.W. end of the jnclosure is the Fujimiken Restaurant, where a limited range of food cooked in foreign style can be had at moderate prices.

A colossal bronze iorii erected in 1887, and in itself so fine aa to impel one to acts of worship, marks the entrance to the temple yard; at the right and left are some unusually handsome bronze lanterns ornamented (along the base) with fabulous kirin with gold eyes, and (at the top) with wriggling dragons. The Ema-dd just within the entrance, at the left, is a tawdry affair with some execrable pictures of horses stuck to the walls and ceiling; the guns and sabers were given by the soldiers of the arsenal. During festival nights the trees are hung with colored light bulbs and the effect is pretty. At this season cages along the inner fence are packed high with offerings to the shrine — huge mirror-shaped rice-cakes called kagami- mochi; big-bellied sake tubs; hosts of potted plants; tins of biscuits and what-not, each bearing the giver's name — and usually his place of business. The stone lanterns in the yard were erected (in 1878) by the Japanese nobility, to replace some ugly glass ones of an earlier period. The white magnolias are beautiful in season.

The simple but imposing Honden, or main shrine, built in 1869, in the pure Shintd style, is of little interest to the traveler. The two blue-and-white porcelain ornaments inclosed in wire netting, which stand at the right and left of the entrance, were gifts of the wife of a dainty d. The peaceful, and ecclesiastical

Museum of Arms,

The character of the sanctuary changes as soon as one walks across the yard to the right of it. What at first blush looks like the repair yard of a machine-gun shop is found to be a reliquary of the Japan-Russia War; many battered and mutilated machine-guns stand here on pedestals made for them, and on or near them are inscriptions recounting their bloody history. The 7-cent. gun behind the shield was removed by the Russians from a Russian warship, set up on shore for the defense of Port Arthur, and did great damage to the assaulting army before it was captured. The badly broken gun at the rear of the upright shell, which serves as a descriptive tablet, was thus mutilated by a 27-cent. gun manipulated by the Japanese—a dreadfully battle-scarred relic of a horrific war. The long, crippled gun at the left of another cartridge-shaped descriptive shaft was put out of commission by a 28-cent. Japanese gun. The tall mounted gun (also a 28-cent., with the number 97-151 and 8461 on the same plate) was manufactured at the Osaka Arsenal and was one of those which killed the greatest number of Russians; during the early part of the war it was badly damaged by the Russian fire, but was later repaired and was a powerful argument in the surrender of Port Arthur. According to the tablet, it was placed on shore 2000 meters from the outer line of defense, and from that point it hurled its deadly missiles on to the forts and ships. It was instrumental in sinking the Russian warships Retevezan, Pobeida, Poltava, Peresviet, Sevastopol, and the Bayan. The wicked thing rests on a great movable base, and the wonder is that men could ever move its huge bulk from a rocking ship to the shore.

The placing of these guns behind the cover of 203 Metre Hill resulted disastrously for the Russian ships cooped up in Port Arthur Harbor. One big ship and six destroyers were the only vessels, torpedo-launches, and other small craft excepted, which escaped destruction. The terrific plunging fire from High Hill not only cruelly mutilated all the ships that could not find shelter, but the torpedo, village of Tiger's Tail was utterly destroyed. The arsenal works on the S. side of the E. end of the basin were also heavily punished.

Other evil-looking guns stand about the grounds, which extend back (behind the shrine) to a lovely garden with a fishpond. The bronze fountain in this, in the form of a boy holding a struggling fish, was a gift of the Marquis Mayeda, daimyo of Kaga Province. The plum trees which bloom here in late Feb. are worth coming to see.

The 'Museum of Arms ( Yushukan ), with a magnificent collection almost as complete as that in the Royal Armory at Madrid, stands at the right (N.) of the shrine, in the same compound. Entrance at the right; open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. in summer, and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. in winter; admission, 5 sen. The attractive foreign-style edifice of red brick and white granite was built for the purpose, around four sides of a handsome garden containing a pond, some graceful trees and a number of dismounted

Museum of Arms.

cannon — also relics of the late war. The 43 clean and well- lighted rooms contain a superb lot of objects associated with Japan's greatest epochs, and it is to be deplored that no catalog in English exists to give the interested traveler a completer description of them; for in point of beauty, variety, and historic interest many are deserving of minute attention. The splendid collection of now almost priceless swords and blades i3 worth seeing many times. — As the present location of many of the articles is avowedly temporary, and is subject to change, no effort will be made here to describe them in rotation.

We enter through a narrow room filled with implements of war dating from an age when art went hand in hand with armed contest, and enemies of the State were shot with cannon so beautiful in design and decoration that they must have mitigated the pain of the wounded. On both sides of the passageway are many relics of early Korean and Chinese invasions; and of Japanese internecine strife. Here are many tangible evidences of intercourse with the first Europeans — for from the cruel and scheming Jesuits, and the mercenary, psalmsinging Dutchmen, the old feudal barons got all they knew of war-instruments more complicated than bows and arrows, spears, clubs, and battle-axes. Scattered among these varied and artistic mementoes, which range in size from ponderous cannon of wonderful bore to dainty damascened matchlock pistols of intricate mechanism, are many early Japanese rifles inlaid with gold and silver foil and displaying a singular perfection of design and execution. The old saddles, the Dutch shells, and minor war panoply are less interesting.

The collection of war-pictures — many of them painted with more fury than art — includes portraits of field marshals, generals, and many smaller fry. Several canvases illustrate phases of the Mongol Invasion (Rte. 39) and the cruelty of the yellow hordes sent hither by the redoubtable Kublai Khan. The case of swords belonging to the Yasukuni shrine contains some that are classed as national treasures. The fine sword with a jewel-encrusted sheath, enriched with fat goldfishes, was given by Baron Iwasaki and is said to be similar in design to the famous heaven-sent sword worshiped at the Sacred Shrine at Ise. The splendid Korean blade near by is worth looking at. — In other rooms are extensive collections of armor under which the greatest hearts of Old Japan once beat with life and purpose; the banners which hang above them were captured from rival fiefs or foreign enemies. A host of smaller objects of interest repose in the glass cases — some properly identified, others understandable only to the native mind. The barbed spears 15 ft. long attest the muscularity of some of the old warriors; the suits of mail are purely Japanese. The cases containing the fine collection of relics of the Fujiwara, Ashikaga and the Tokugawa epochs are highly interesting. Nearby

Southwest Quarter.

are assortments of weapons used by the early Ainu and by the Formosan head-hunters.

Of interest to Americans is the machine-gun (made by Pratt & Whitney, of Hartford, Conn.) presented 'To His Majesty, the Mikado of Japan, by General U. S. Grant.* It usually stands near an old Chinese cannon mounted on a red and gold carriage (a relic of the Boxer War). Hard by are some Gatling battery guns; an old Claxton gun; several bronze cannon of Strasbourg make with the crown and monogram of the lesser Napoleon, and the date 1861-62; some grim old Russian guns; a collection of German armor of the 16th cent.; and a host of relics of various kinds, wrested from the Russians on the plains of Manchuria. The enlarged and colored photographs of the Russian War are instructive. In some of the rooms are huge war-drums, relics of the Stone Age in Japan, and a host of articles of domestic use among the Ainus. In an adjoining building is the Museum Library; misnamed, since it contains only a lot of kakemonos and specimens of chirography (some of the panels 20 ft. long) of dead worthies.

The Southwest Quarter.

The section embraced within the Akasaka, Azabu, Shiba, and the S.W. half of Kojimachi wards is one of the most attractive of the city. The N.E. part is often called the Official Quarter, for at the W. of the Palace moat, where long double rows of the mansions of feudal barons once stood, are one or more detached palaces, numerous embassies and legations; shrines, schools, dwellings, and the well-known Foreign Office, where international questions are discussed. The region at the back of this structure is almost wholly residential. Parliament, the Naval Department, and the Law Courts face it, and the magnificent old wide-spreading cherry trees in the yard are a beautiful sight in early April. The life-size bronze monument (erected in 1908) on a granite pedestal in front of the portico commemorates Count Munemitsu Mutsu (b. 1847, d, 1897), sometime senator ( genroin-gikwan ) and stanch supporter of the Imperial Restoration. Becoming implicated in the Satsuma Rebellion he was imprisoned, but in 1888 was made Minister to Washington, and, in 1892, Minister of Foreign Affairs. The official residences of the present minister and his secretary (who also is press censor, etc.) are in the compound with the Foreign Office. That of the Vice-Minister and of the foreign adviser are near by, and that of the Prime Minister is in the immediate neighborhood. The big building in the rear of the Gaimusho is the Detached Palace (often called Kasumigasehi-rikyi l — 'spring-mist* palace — from the hillslope on which it stands) of the late Prince Arisugawa Tarvhito Shinno. Distinguished foreign visitors are often quartered here.

Meiji Shrine.

The Meiji Jinja or Shrine, the National Picture Gallery, and the Stadium are all near one another, in a vast compound which forms one of the most attractive spots in the city (see the Plan D, 3), in a region long known as Yoyogi because of the forest of great trees which for untold generations grew in the vicinity. The graceful pines which now environ the shrine are descendants of some of the great patriarchs which stood hereabout perchance when Marco Polo first heard of Japan and the discoveries of Columbus were yet undreamed of. There are a number of camphor trees in the vicinity, along with cherries (a delight in early April), and maples that attract thousands when their foliage begins to turn in late autumn. Tokyoites regard the display of maples as the best in the vicinity of the capital. On the third of November each year, the Emperor attends in person a special fiesta held at the shrine.

This is easily reached in a motor-car (about 10 min. from the Imperial Hotel); by the Belt Line Rly. (descend at Harajuku Station, 2 min. walk from the entrance); or by surface cars that go out Aoyamaddri and take one also to within a few min. walk of it. Motor-cars are not permitted to go beyond the great hinoki torii (from the Formosa forests) which, with its gilded imperial crests, guard the entrance to the park. The street which leads from Acyama-dori is flanked by lines of new houses in semi-western style. A short distance down the broad boulevard leading inward from the pylon, one crosses a curved stone bridge with bronze-capped uprights. A brawling brook tumbles and gurgles beneath it. A short walk brings one to other pylons and the entrance to the inner shrine.

This severely plain but unusually attractive structure is devoid of any color except that of natural wood tinted by the hand of time, and stands in the center of a spotless quadrangle entered through great gates and brooded over by a silence impressive by its solemnity. It is a cenotaph commemorating the great Mutsuhito (or Meiji Tenno — 1868-1912, see page 5fO) and was begun in 1915 and completed in 1919 (Nov. 1st). The environment is beautiful. No city noises penetrate to the sacrosanct spot, which is ever the objective of devout pilgrims, many of them in picturesque costumes and from distant places. The broad park which surrounds the shrine covers many acres. By following a well-defined road which leads away to the right of the shrine one soon comes to

The Stadium, or Kyogijo ( kyogi, sports, racing; jo, place), erected at the same time as the shrine, with a seating capacity of 50,000 persons. It is the sporting center of the entire Tokyo region. Still further to the right of the stadium (see the accompanying plan), is

The National Picture Gallery (Seitoku Kinen Kaigakan)9 a stately and splendidly massive gray granite and reinforced concrete building in the Italian Renaissance style, with squat,

Plan of Meiji Shrine and National Picture Gallery

rounded domes overlooking an artificial pool confined in a concrete basin. The building was completed in 1928, is the work of the able architect Dr. R. Sano (who harmonized a number of plans submitted), and occupies a site which for many years was the Aoyaraa Parade Grounds, It is a National Gallery in the strictest sense, in that all of the present paintings and those in preparation (about 100 in all) depict episodes in the life of Meiji Tenno (who guided the destinies of Japan through the reconstruction period which followed the opening of the country by Commodore Perry).

The Interior is cathedral-like, and though coldly austere is not devoid of beauty. All the marble and onyx used in its construction is from Japanese (Gifu) quarries (excepting the white Carrara pieces). The woodwork is of the almost indestructible keake (similar to American hickory), stained a mahogany tint. Japanese artisans did the work. The massive bronze (front) doors are superb examples of this type of craftsmanship. The views from the great peristyle are admirable. The stately rotunda (good acoustic properties) is squared, with tessellated marble floors and walls, and opposing wings leading east and west from it.

The pictures (all of which are about 8 by 10 ft.) in the right wing bear numbers from 1 to 40, are in the Japanese style, are by native artists, and portray episodes during the first part of the imperial reign. Those in the left wing are numbered from 41 to 80, are done in oil, in the European manner, by Japanese artists, and depict episodes in the latter half of the Meiji era, when foreign influence tinged the native life. Other paintings are to be added to the collection.

The gallery is open only on certain days, but the courteous management will admit interested travelers almost any time, if they come provided with a request card (easily obtainable from the manager of the Imperial Hotel or the Japan Tourist Bureau). A catalogue in English, giving the titles of the pictures, the name of the painter, etc., can be obtained at the gallery.

A short distance at the rear of the gallery is a circular space and a building wherein the imperial funeral services were held. A little way down at the right of the gallery is the Constitutional Memorial Building, with a number of paintings commemorating episodes in the framing of Japan's Constitution.

Note. The Tama-no-Misasagi, or Imperial Mausoleum, where the late Emperor, Yoshihito (1912-1926), son of the Meiji Tenno, is buried, is about 1£ M. from the Asakawa Station (31 M. from the lidamachi Station, Tokyo) on the Chuo Main Line of the Imperial Government Railways, and is a Mecca for thousands of loyal Japanese who go thence to worship at the shrine and enjoy the beautiful countryside where it is located.

The journey by rail each way is about 2 hrs.; the fare is low,

Shiba Park.

and cheap and frequent motor-cars (and yet cheaper buses) wait at the station to carry travelers to the shrine enclosure.. The Japan Tourist Bureau (head office in the Central Railway Station at Tokyo; branch in the Imperial Hotel) will secure tickets for the traveler and supply all the needed information.

The Mausoleum is similar to that of the Meiji Emperor at Momoyama (see p. 550) and stands on a rounded hill about 720 ft. above sea level, in the midst of a charming and typical Japanese landscape At near-by H achioji there are the remains of an old castle, and at the west is Mt. Takao, celebrated for its gorgeous, display of maples in Nov.

The district is much enjoyed by Japanese for brief outings and picnics.

•Shiba Park (or Shiba Koen or koenchi ), a large, well-wooded plot dotted with temples, shrines, gorgeous mausolea, tombs, a pagoda, a lakelet, numerous monuments, pleasure-gardens, and what-not in the S.W. quarter of the city2 in Shiba-ku (PI. D, 6), flanks the car line (10 min. from Hibiya Park) and contains some mortuary temples of the Tokugawa shoguns and their consorts which, though rapidly decaying, still' rank with the finest structures of their kind in Japan, and are classed with the 'sights' of the capital. Though wastefully rather than tastefully splendid, they well deserve a visit, particularly by these who may not have seen the similar shrines of Nikko.

Shiba Park dates its prosperity from 1596 when the first Tokugawa, shogun Ieyasu, — who had selected Yedo for his capital 6 yrs. before — caused the Zojoji Temple (the metropolitan headquarters of the powerful Jodo sect of Buddhists) to be moved hither and declared it the place where the funeral tablets ( ihai ) of himself and his descendants should be preserved. In course of time thirty or more temples and mortuary shrines sprang up in the Shiba inclosure, most of the latter dating from the 17th cent. Repeated fires destroyed a number of the minor buildings, and the great conflagration of 1874 burned the magnificent old Zojoji with most of its contents; leaving only the big outer gate (sammon) standing as a sole survivor of the original group. A smaller and less imposing structure was erected on the site of the burned temple, to be again destroyed in 1908. A newer and more elaborate fane is now being constructed. The steady expansion of Tokyo and its growing needs has resulted in the clipping off, from time to time, of sections of the erstwhile wide temple inclosure, so that the park, which was officially opened to the public in 1878, is now much smaller than formerly. One by one its glories are disappearing before the march of progress, utilitarianism, and the relentless greed of ages.

If possible the mausolea should be visited on a bright morning, as the clapboarding which partly incloses and protects them from the weather renders the brilliant interiors darksome, and this duskiness is enhanced by the

Map: Shiba Park

Shiba Mausolea.

of 20 sen per person is exacted by the custodian (at the office) of each of the five groups of buildings, and for this an English-speuking guide is supplied, who conducts one about and then points the way to the next groqp, where the process is repeated. This small fee removes the necessity for tipping, but it is not unusual for Japanese to deposit small coins before certain of the shrines, which for them have a religious import. Upon leaving the mortuary temple of the 2d Shogun a ticket is handed the visitor and this is given up at the entrance to the Octagonal Shrine or tomb; without it a second fee is exacted. Admittance through the samnion to the temporary structure erected on the site of the Zojoji is free. With the exception of this gate, the other front gates are kept closed; the entrance to the mausolea being at the sides through the respective offices. Consult the accompanying plan. Covers are provided gratis for shoes, which do not have to be taken off.

Visitors above ft. tall will save themselves numerous bumps by keeping an eye on the door-cases as they pass through them, since they are all made for persons of small stature. Those pressed for time will perhaps be satisfied with an inspection of the mausoleum of the 2d Shogun, and of the octagonal hall wherein he is buried; the former is the finest and richest of the group, and the latter contains what is thought to be the largest and best specimen extant of antique Japanese gold lacquer in the shape of a tomb. Next in point of excellence is the mortuary temple of the 0th, 1 2th, and 14th Shoguns; and following, in the order named, is the Ten-ei-in, where the consorts of several of the shoguns are enshrined; the temple of the 7th and 9th Shoguns; and lastly the Toshogu. Architecturally they are all practically the same, the difference consisting of the varying richness of t heir interior decorations; nil are worth seeing if one has the time to spare, and all may be superficially inspected in 2 hrs. or less. All but the one first mentioned can be easily omitted if the traveler has seen the similar mausolea at Uyeno Park, since they are examples of the same class of architecture and decoration. The Pagoda is not worth looking at, nor are the other shrines, unless the visitor is specially interested in them and their worship. It remains to be said that with this Guidebook and one of the English-speaking bonzes supplied by the temple office, any other guide or cicerone is unnecessary. Those who plan to see all the buildings will save time by beginning their inspection of them at the mausoleum of the 7th and 9th Shoguns, then systematically following the course outlined hereinafter.

The *Shiba Mausolea consist of single isolated wood temples or shrines which rise from slightly elevated granite bases (a double protection against moisture from the ground and from fires), and are supported by a maze of sturdy compound brackets admirably adjusted to withstand the heavy thrust and strain of the ponderous and somewhat clumsy tile-roofed buildings. They are usually connected with the custodian's office ( Shamusho ) by a closed corridor, and are themselves protected by time-stained weather- boarding which, while imparting to them the bedraggled look of old barns, protects the exterior decorations from the fierce glare of a brilliant sun, and, in a measure, from the corrosive quality of the atmosphere in one of the most unstable and treacherous climates of the world. The single-story structures arc usually encircled by narrow galleries flanked by classically low railings of ornamented lacquer, overshadowed by the deep projecting caves. Almost every inch of the exterior walla of the temples is covered with some sort of rich decoration, — either carved, painted or lacquered, — but most of this is now faded and lusterless. The interiors are divided into three apartments — one room at either end of a narrow connecting corridor called the ainoma or Meeting Room, where the shogun and the abbot came from the inner shrine ( honden ) at the rear, to meet the daimyos who approached from the (rectangular) outer Oratory (haiden); the beautifully lacquered, temple-shaped shrines which contain the mortuary tablets of the deceased are kept in the honden. The shogun only was permitted to penetrate to this sacrosanct inclosure when he came to worship the deified shades of his forebears, who are regarded as the tutelary divinities of Japanese families. The daimyos of the most exalted rank and highest income occupied scrupulously graded mats in the ainoma; lesser ones had to be content with seats in the haiden; and the small fry were kept in the front yard (the most important nearest to the steps) or outside the gate.

In certain of the-tpausotea, notably those where mortuary tablets of per-

Shiba MausolecL

scions of Imperial blood are enshrined, visitors are not allowed beyond a small railing placed athwart the ainoma, unless they hold special permits. This should not be considered in the light of a deprivation, as the shrine-rooms of the various temples differ but slightly one from the other. The actual Tombs (haka) beneath which the shoguns are buried, are customarily placed on a higher terrace near, or at the back of, the temples, and they are always at the rear of a little oratory, through the open doors of which the spirits of tne august dead are reverenced. Though outwardly shabby, the interiors of some of these oratories are sometimes surprisingly ornate. They are not unusually closed to the casual visitor.

The trained eye of the architect will not fail to observe in these Shiba temples the evidences of the architectonic law which pervades the designs of all of them — the adjustment of beams and joists, pillars and pilasters, arches and buttresses to an external but hidden necessity — that of protecting them against earthquakes — in the most active belt of which Tokyo stands. At first blush they appear unstable and lacking in organic coherence; the tremendously heavy, tile-weighted roofs, with their disproportionate overhang, seem too large for the slender walls, and one rather expects them to twist round during an earthquake and in falling grind their frngile supports into powder. Doubtless the impression made was deliberately aimed at, the startling effect of too much massiveness in the roof not seeming undesirable in the period when the temples were designed. An interior inspection always invalidates the impression of weakness gained from the outer view, for here the columns are startlingly solid and one readily understands how the structures could have successfully withstood not only the fifty or more subterranean jogglings which Tokyo receives every year, but the occasional bicjiVfm which comes ever so often to remind the metropolitans of the exact nature of the earth beneath them. That these almost priceless relics of a period when the national art was uninfluenced by that of the West have so su jessfully withstood the assaults of centuries, is due in a great measure to the many coats of thick, glass-like lacquer with which the wood is covered, and which acta like a sheathing of some impermeable metal, also to the moisture-resisting granite which serves as bases. In these essentials they differ notably from the unpninted dwellings of the proletariat. The customary pantiles used on the roofs of the better class of the latter houses are plaeed here by copper-bronze strips which time has coated with a fine patina that imparts a decided element of beauty and charm. The demon-faced ante- fixes, or the upright ornaments bearing crests which figure at the ends of the ridges, serve the double purpose of adornment and as expedients for covering the points where the imbrications end. A pleasing phase of extreme antiquity is noticeable about the brilliantly decorated doors, which are customarily swung oil solid metal pivots let into soffits above, and projections from the sills below, and in this they recall the ponderous doors of Spanish and Mexican cathedrals.

If an unpleasant quality be found in the lack of repose in some of the interiors, it is usually offset by the effect of exceeding richness and originality, The decorations of certain of the upright wall-panels arc sometimes disappointing to the foreigner, who may also be impressed by an indescribable uneasiness in the too lavish enrichment; but the general sense of unity is nevertheless apparent in the wonderfully barbaric fineries which greet the eye at every turn. Time has, in a measure, harmonized the conflicting colors, particularly in the upper structural parts of the exterior, and few can withstand tne strange impressiveness of the mausoleum of the 2d shogun. This is at once the most magnificent and complete monument of ecclesiastical art that exists in Tokyo, and is undoubtedly the most beautiful of the large lacquered products of a high degree of perfection which have come down to us from the 17th cent. Contrasted with the spick-and-span newness of certain of the recently redecorated Nikko mausolea (where the buildings are regarded as national treasures and a special fund is set aside by the State for their up-keep), the Shiba buildings (which arc owned by the Tokugawa family and are left practically to care for themselves) look shabby and forlorn. This aspect is heightened somewhat by the complicated adventitious ornaments which have been grafted on to them, and which detract in a way their fine effect.

Shiba Mausolea.

The Great Gate (Sammori) which admits one to the wide atrium of the Zojoji was redecorated in 1911, and is still a splendid and sturdy example of an old style Buddhist temple gateway. The rich Indian red lacquer with which it is entirely covered makes an impressive picture against the green of the environing trees; it is unusually plain, and the black metal ornaments which adorn it add dignity and beauty. There are three sets of heavy doors, six in all, each studded with metal bosses and display-hinges, and each swung on huge pivots let into soffits above and below. The massive upright pillars, which sit in bronze sockets resting upon granite bases, are of almost imperishable kcyaki, but smaller in circumference than certain of the superb timbers employed in the mausoleum of the 2d shogun. A maze of massive compound brackets support the twin roofs, which are tiled, with demon-faced antefixes at the salient angles. The upper story is reached by flights of stairs leading from the lateral wdngs; permits are necessary, but the images (gilded figures of Shaka, Fugen, Monju, and a few other divinities) contained therein are of no special interest, and will scarcely repay the time spent in seeing them.

The Priest's Apartments stand at the left, within; and at the right, beneath a tawdry temporary tower, is the great bronze bell cast in the 16th cent. The new Zojoji stands on the terrace ahead; the chief idol, a richly gilded image of Amida is ascribed to Eshin. The white crest on the purple hangings of the fane is the mitsu-am, or three-leaved asarum which formed the crest (a symbol frequently employed in art expression) of the Tokugawa. At the right of the temple entrance stands a low gray stone bearing a chiseled impression of Buddha's foot, comparing in size and general grotesqueness to the diplodocus-like tooth revered in the Maligawa Temple at Kandy, in Ceylon, as one of Buddha's original grinders. The thousands of wood strips displayed roundabout show the names of the devotees who subscribed to the erection of the new temple. The black Amida preserved within the temple is ascribed to Eshin and is said to have been carried by leyasu as a mascot in his military campaigns.

We begin our inspection of the mausolea at the Mortuary Shrine of the 7th (. Ietsugu ) and 9th (Ieshige) Shoguns: the entrance is at the N. side of the inclosure (comp, the plan) opposite the pine grove called Matsubara. The office of the custodian is just within. On payment of the 20-sen fee the traveler is conducted through a long hall with faded decorations, to a side gallery which is followed until the main entrance is reached. The most conspicuous features of this are two resplendent tie-beams formed of intricately carved and gilded wood dragons; one, headed toward the shrine, called the ascending dragon; the other, facing the corridor, the descending dragon. The arcade is a maze of still rich but sadly faded

172 Rout $ 10.

Shiha Mausolea.

polychrome decorations, in which many colors and much gold- leaf are felicitously blended; the entire structure shows the marks of time more plainly than the succeeding ones. There are some graceful old pine trees in the pebbled yard. The Oratory (21 by 27 ft.) still retains much of its former great beauty; the six wide wall-panels, each of one piece of solid camphor wood, display the Japanese conception of Korean lions (by Kano Chikanobu; 1660-1728) charging across a gleaming gold ground. The rectangular sculptured ornamental panels let into the architrave, also cut from single camphor wood strips, carry 100 different wave-patterns bewilderingly intricate and richly tinted in colors. The fine decorations on the sunken panels of the handsome coffered ceilings are thought by some to rank with the best in the entire group; polychromatic flowering peonies form the central figures, while encircling them are conventional butterfly wings, attractively and skillfully painted. The lacquered cross-sections are almost covered with delicately chased metal enrichments; the Tohugawa crest predominating. The bizarre compound brackets which extend quite round the room below the ceiling are each adorned with the head of the baku (a fabled animal said to swallow evil dreams). Every inch of surface between the bracket groups is ornamented with minutely perfect painted tracery in conventional designs. On the monthly festivals (12th and 13th) the abbot's seat beneath the swinging metal baldachin is occupied by him. The boxes which one sometimes sees ranged about the room are then placed near the seat, and the kneeling bonzes intone the ritual from the Buddhist sutras which they contain. In lieu of capitals the tops of the supporting columns are enriched with an intricately diversified drapery painted so skillfully as easily to deceive one into believing it finely colored silk brocade.

The decorations of the corridor (15 by 30 ft.) which joins the haiden to the honden are similar to those of the outer room. Massive floors heavily lacquered in red or black underlie the soft mats. The gilded wall-panels with rampant lions are by Chikanobu. Seven lacquered and highly polished steps lead up to the room where, on exquisitely lacquered stands made for them, repose the sacred reliquaries — marvelous structures of rich yellow gold and other chased metal; lacquer, intricate sculpture, brilliant colors, and gleaming crests. Scarcely less remarkable are the superb red lacquered tables before them, on which the temple furniture and offerings are customarily set out. The shrine of the 9th shogun stands at the left; that of the 7th in the middle; and that of Tokugawa Tsunashige (father of lenobu, the 6th shogun) at the right. The sculptured wood images and mortuary tablets within were presented by. Mikados and are never shown. Excellently-carved wood statuettes of Kwannon, Benten, and the Gods of the Four

Shiba Mausotea.

Directions guard the shrines from all evil influences. The interior of the apartment is a maze of gilding and rich painting supplemented by carved phoenixes and the like. Fourteen years are said to have been spent at work on the building.

Returning to the main entrance, we proceed to the arcade where many swinging bronze lanterns (the gifts of daimyos 9 wives) are displayed; the central gate is the Kara-mon (Chinese Gate): the Buddhist angel on the ceiling panel is by Chikanobu; the sculptured wood panels of birds and flowers are badly weather-beaten, and are inferior to certain of those in the other structures. The tall bronze lanterns in the inclosure beyond are a portion of the 212 which stand in the various compounds of this temple; most of them date from 1716-61, and were gifts by daimyos whose annual revenue exceeded 100,000 koku of rice. The old gate at the foot of the inclosure is the Chokugaku-no-mon (Imperial Tablet Gate), on tho facade of which is a tablet placed there by one of the emperors; in the court beyond arc some of the 750 stone lan terns. presented to the shrine by daimyos whose income ranged lower than 100,000 koku; the outer gate is the Ni-ten-mon, or Gate of the Two Deva Kings, by whom it is guarded. The inner gate is a marvel of carving, with dragons, birds, pierced panels, and the like. The mythological phoenix is a popular and frequently recurring subject. From this point the traveler gains a fairly correct idea of what the approach to the shrine must have looked like in the old days, when glittering trains of daimyos approached it through the several gates (now closed) and the path leading up through the colonnade. The splendor increased as one neared the sacred reliquary, and the final outburst of Oriental magnificence was enough to dazzle the most stolid.

Passing to the rear of the shrine we come to the 0-shikiri- 7 nont or Great Dividing Gate, beyond which only the shogun and the abbot were allowed to go — the daimyos remaining in the temple garden and worshiping the August Tomb from afar. Though now but a shadow of its one-time richness the structure is still noteworthy, chiefly for the skillfully carved and gilded open-work panels in the wings. They arc the work of Nakamura Izumi no kami; are each fashioned out of a single piece of keyaki- wood; and are so adroitly executed that the

running kirin show to equal advantage on either side. In the sunken pebbly court, which we now cross under the guidance of the temple bonze, are 44 headless bronze lanterns, the hoshuno-lama which originally ornamented them having been stolen by some vandal during the troublous period which immediately preceded and followed the Restoration — at which epoch iconoclasm was not considered reprehensible by certain misguided Japanese. The uniform gray pebbles of the court here are symbolic of the immoderate extravagance of the builders of these magnificent memorials to the dead shoguns. Because

Shiba Mausotea.

of their granitic character and their supposed quality of neither fading nor changing color when wet, they were all brought (as were the others in Shiba Park) from the distant province of Kii (S. of Kyoto), on horseback, at a tremendous outlay of time and effort.

At the top of the steps stands the small but gorgeous Oratory of the 9th shogun, well preserved despite 152 years of exposure to the changeable Japanese climate. The highly- polished floor is of deep black lacquer; the prancing kirin on the brilliant gold wall-panels are by Chikanobu (a great favorite of Yoshimune, the 8th shogun ), to whom is also ascribed the handsomely decorated sunken panels of the coffered ceiling. The crests on the folding outer doors are (top) the Tokugawa; ( center ) the Wheel of the Law and (below) a compound toko, or mace, held by Buddhist priests when praying. Eighteen stone steps lead up from the rear of the oratory to the pagoda-shaped granite tomb resting on its octagonal base and surrounded by a copper-sheathed fence. Twenty feet below the shrine-like structure, wrapped like that of a mummy and covered with artificial cinnabar and charcoal to arrest decay, lies the body of the 9th shogun. The strangely contorted teak tree (sharasoju) at the left of the inclosure is said to be 150 yrs. old (which is doubtful); to have come originally from India, and to have been presented to the shrine by a king of Korea. It resembles a sycamore, and the profusion of white flowers (June-July) are not unlike those of Camellia japonica. According to Buddhists (who often mention the tree in their sacred scriptures) the greenish-brown trunk of the original tree (under which Buddha is thought to have been born) turned white when he exchanged earth for nirvana. — The immense corner-stones of the wall supporting the terrace came from Osaka. — The tomb of the 7th shogun, on a similar terrace at the left, dates from 1716, when the unfortunate lad died, aged 7 yrs. Leaving the inclosure by the entrance gate, we skirt the front of the park for a short distance, turn up the lane (right) between the Main Gate and the Goto Monument, to

The Mausoleum of the 6th (Jcnobu), X2th ( Jeyoshi ), and 14th (lemochi) Shoguns. It is entered through an inconspicuous gateway in the plain side fence which leads from the outer street to the custodian's office opposite the Zojoji. One penetrates directly to the sumptuously decorated colonnade which extends quite across the inclosure and is supported by many lithe and graceful pillars, enriched by numerous swinging bronze lanterns, and adorned by some superbly sculptured and gilded panels through the interstices of which pour streams of yellow sunlight. The general effect of the cloister strongly recalls certain of those of the Alhambra. The motifs of the carved and polychromatic groups set into the panels of the closed side of. the structure are peacocks, flowers, shrubbery.

Shiba Mausolea.

birds, and the usual mythological emblems so profusely employed by the early craftsmen. Though extraordinarily attractive, they are nevertheless inferior to those of the shrine proper, where they have been protected from the insidious attacks of the weather. The sculptures of the Kara-mon are crisp, spirited, and equally elaborate on both sides. Through the apertures one glimpses the disused front yard with its many headless bronze lanterns and its fine old bronze-roofed bell- tower. The customary Chokugaku-no-mon stands bet ween this and the outer inclosure, which in turn contains the usual quota of stone lanterns and is entered by the (now closed) Ni-ten- morij with its caged Nio — seen to advantage from the street. The flying tennin on the ceiling of the Kara-mon is attributed to Kano Yasunobu (1767-98). — The w'onderfully decorated and impressive curved arch above the entrance to the Oratory gives one an inkling of the surpassing magnificence of the interior adornments. Most noteworthy are the superbly carved and gilded rectangular wood panels above the folding doors, with Dogs of Fo and peonies in high relief; all pierced and artistically painted in a pleasing medley of harmonious colors that blend with those of the complicated series of compound brackets above them. The wrork is attributed to Kano Yasun- obu, and is similar in detail to that of the mausolea at Uyeno Park.

The interior of the Oratory is astonishingly rich and effective. Each panel of the coffered ceiling carries a gold flying dragon surrounded by brilliant cloud effects on a blue ground: the interlacing bars are covered with heavy gold lacquer ana delicately chased metal resembling fine niello, with the Tokugawa crest as the most prominent enrichment. The ceiling supports here take the form of successive groups of colored compound brackets adroitly employed as decorative expedients, each group with a salient baku head and between them such a variety of intricate tracery that the eye wearies in following it to a logical end. The supporting pilasters are heavily sheathed with gleaming gold foil that produces an effect of great opulence. In lieu of capitals their tops are covered with downward-flowing drapery painted to represent brocade falling in graceful folds and covering a third or more of their surface. The finest things in tho somewhat restricted (21 by 48 ft.) room, with its low ceiling and its black lacquered, camphor-wood floors covered with soft rush mats, are the 20 rectangular carved wood panels of the architrave, representing 100 different birds and a like number of flowers, all exceptionally well done both as regards the sculpture and the decorating. The birds, in high relief, poised ready to fly, or in an attitude of flight or rest, are carved with such fidelity to nature that one regrets that the name of the artist (they are erroneously ascribed to Kano Yasunobu) who fashioned them is lost. The

Shiba Mausolea.

2d panel at the left of the entrance to the ainoma, with its beautiful white Japanese lilies (oddly enough an unusual theme with the native workmen), was considered by one of the shoguns so perfect that for many years a curtain hid it from the adoration of profane eyes. The rusted hooks still show in the wall above it. There is a delicate purity about the carving suggestive of the best work of Hidari Jingoro, and this is emphasized in the unvarying and natural trimness in the bodies of the little birds, which seem to lack only the life principle to start them hopping from twig to twig. The hydrangea, double cherry blossom, maple leaf, Japanese quince, bamboo, peony, chrysanthemum, and other motives, are faithfully portrayed in the different panels, all of which deserve close inspection.

The six grandiose wall-panels, each 4 by 6 ft.; each cut from a single camphor-wood strip, and each with a gambolling Chinese lion on a gold ground, are ascribed to Yasunobu. The regal seat beneath the swinging baldachin is that of the abbot. The massive cross-beam over the entrance to the corridor carries rich ornamentations of gold on a black-lacquered ground, with huge salient baku heads at each end. The general decorative scheme of the room is continued in the corridpr, where anciently none except the relatives of the Tokugawa family were allowed. The traveler who wishes to see the inner shrine must come armed with a special permit, since the mortuary tablet of a princess of the blood (consort of the 14th shogun) is preserved here, and the public is debarred from going beyond the low railing near the foot of.the steps. Within the sanctuary are three splendid and lovely shrines, two-storied marvels of gold lacquer and delicate sculpture. The reliquary of the princess (and of the 14th shogun) is at the extreme left. The purple altar frontal, of rich stuff embellished with gold chrysanthemum crests, was presented by the late Emperor (to whom the princess was aunt). The middle shrine is that of the 6th shogun, and that at the right of the 12th. The beautifully carved, lacquered, and gilded figurines of the Shi-tenno which guard the shrines are unusually graceful and pleasing, without the customary hideousness of face and mien.

But slightly less attractive than the shrines themselves are the superb gold lacquered menses which stand before them and on which repose the usual sacred offerings. Note the lovely little black lacquered incense-burner adorned with small gold 16-petaled chrysanthemum crests; resting on a small table with similar decorations, before tjie altar of the princess. It is unusually dainty, and the black lacquer, though apparently ordinary, is of the richest and costliest kind; the crest denotes that it is an Imperial gift (one of several made on Sept. 2, the anniversary of the princess). The interior of the apartment fairly glows with richness; ornate sculptured panels adorn the walls; the beautiful panels of the coffered ceiling are painted

Shiba Mausolea.

with artistic phoenixes in colors on a gold ground (like those of the Nijo Castle at KySto), and the groups of compound brackets (which have not been repainted since they were placed in

position more than 200 yrs. ago) show colors such as the old European masters used in their finest and most enduring pictures. The long narrow gold panels at the right and left of the richly carved doors of the honden, with lotus leaves and flowers, are graceful and charming.

Some gnarled and stately pine trees rise above the flagged walk leading past the side of the mausoleum to the tomb. In the ceiling panel of the Dividing Gate there is a handsome white peacock worth looking at. The artistic bronze lanterns of the sunken court here have retained their koshu-no-tama tops. The view across the court to the twin flight of (37) stone steps beyond, surmounted by the fine old Kara-mon gateway with its now ruinous sculpture, is beguiling. The Oratory before the Tomb of the 6th ShQgun contains a coffered ceiling adorned with painted dragons, four big gold wall-panels embellished with kirin, and some carved ramma that produce a rich effect. The traveler should not miss seeing the tomb, embosomed in lofty cryptomerias on a terrace reached by 19 steps, as the gateway is one of the best things in the group. It is a magnificent casting of solid bronze, covered with intricate sculptures and called 'Korean bronze gate' from the belief that the panels were brought from Korea (in 1598) by Hideyoshi's soldiers. No bronze panels of comparable magnitude are to be found elsewhere in Tokyo, and none of equal merit were cast in Japan before 1890. The chief decorative motives are ascending and descending dragons (agari-ryu, and kudariryu) modeled in low relief; the former rising from waves, the latter emerging from clouds. Their positions on the inner side of the gate are reversed. The five crests on each face of the heavy swinging doors are in the form of Paterce. The inner side of the inclosing fence is sheathed with copper-bronze. Visitors must be content with a distant view of the richly chased bronze tomb (20 ft. below which the shogun lies buried), as they are not allowed within the inclosure. Note the curious metal locks. — Lined along this terrace, in separate inclosures each with its respective oratory below, are 3 sets of tombs, behind handsomely carved gateways and within bronze-roofed fences. That at the right, of plain granite, beyond a red gate, is of the 12th shogun. The tomb of the princess, with its Imperial chrysanthemum crests, is closed to the public. — Crossing the street and proceeding along the path at the rear of the Zojoji, then beneath a low gateway, we enter the compound described below.

The Reliquary ( Ten-ei-in; O-Tamaya; Sogen-in) of the consorts of the 2d, 5th, 6th, nth, and 13th ShSguns, stands near the temple of the 2d shogunt with a scintillating and beau-

,

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tiful interior differing but slightly from those already described. The outer gate is mournfully faded and is always closed; the row of stone lanterns along the front fence were gifts by petty daimyos. The custodian's house is at the left. The attendant conducts the visitor along a narrow, winding passage to the front porch of the oratory, or Hall of Worship (21 ft. by 42 ft.), which shows its age more than some of the other temples on account of having been one of the first (it antedates those of Nikko by 19 yrs.) mausoleum of its kind erected for the Toku- gawa family. Time-resisting camphor-wood was employed throughout in its construction, and over much of this were placed 48 successive coats of thick black lacquer, which preserved it, but which to-day imparts a decidedly somber aspect to the interior. The haiden is further darkened by sudare so

E laced as to preserve the interior from the effect of the too- right sunlight, and by the broad overhang of the massive front 'porch. The almost endlessly diversified decorations on the black pilasters are attractive, as are also the fine panels of the architrave, with their customary carvings of birds in high relief. The Imperial chrysanthemum crest is here more in evidence than the trefoil embiem of the Tokugawa, indicating that the tablets of personages of royal blood are enshrined within. The delicately and beautifully chased metal clasps of the interlacing strips on the coffered ceiling are said to be of gold plate on a silver base. A splendidly relucent crossbeam covered with thick gold foil extends across the entrance to the ainoma and forms a bright and glittering note in the dusky environment. The elephant heads of some of the other temples are replaced here by these of minatory Dogs of Fo which seem to challenge one's right to pass to the sacred precincts beyond. In the oratory there may sometimes be seen a fine mandara depicting numerous saints of the Buddhist pantheon; this, with a gold screen and some bronze lanterns, completes the equipment..

The decorations of the corridor (11 by 19 ft.) are similar to those of the oratory, and both are on a lesser scale of magnificence than those of the inner sanctuary, wdiich is a blaze of gold and glory. Each of the 100 panels of the coffered ceiling shows an artistically painted phoenix in an attitude differing slightly from that of its neighbor — the work of Kano Tanyu, who also did the fine shishi wall-panels at the right of the shrines. His skill in depicting this mythological animal — considered by the Japanese to be one of the most difficult subjects for a painter's brush — makes his fame enduring. Albeit the gold has worn away in places, the vigorous action of the subjects is still apparent, and they rarely fail to excite the admiration of the beholder. The richly fretted beams and splendidly carved and decorated wood ramma above the architrave are worth noting; likewise the shishi (ascribed to

Skiba Mausolea.

Hidari Jingoro) at the capital of the different gilded columns. The maze of jutting beam-ends, all brilliantly decorated; the countless metal enrichments of the entablatures; the graceful, Egyptian-like drapery decorations which flow down them; the subtle imagery displayed in the intricate diaper-work, and the almost endless minor ornamentation impart a gorgeousness which must be seen to be appreciated. Behind several of the reliquaries are fine gold lacquered wall-panels with paintings of beautiful lotus-blooms; the one at the rear of the shrine just at the right of the entrance, is 75 in. wide; 80 in. high; 5 in. thick; is said to be a single piece of camphor-wood, and is adorned with a great leaping shishi ascribed to some unknown painter of the Kano school. The three almost equally superb panels at the far end of the right-hand passage, behind the reliquaries, are attributed to Kano Yasunobu. The splendor of the profusely decorated flying buttresses or tie-beams above the ambulatory is noteworthy.

The shrines themselves, each of which contains the posthumous names (inscribed on a tablet of bronze) of those to whom they are dedicated, are exquisite specimens of the finest work of the incomparable lacquerers of Old Japan — structures that bear a stronger resemblance to jewelry than to aught else, and wnich rank among the most perfect extant. Their dainty and refined beauty is enhanced by their rich and glowing setting. Each stands on a species of dais above which rises a splendid baldachin-like roof upheld by ten symmetrical and glowing columns, every millimeter of whose surface is thickly plated with shining gold over red lacquer. Artistic brass lanterns swing before the shrines, one of which has been placed at the end of the ambulatory because it contains the tablets of the favorite concubines of the 5th and 7th shoguns. — Certain of the interesting minor architectural details of the temple can be studied to advantage from the encircling porch; the great curved beams decorated in still lively colors; the brown ribs of the / oof all sheathed with metal caps adorned with Tokugawa crests and intricate tracery; the rich gold foil on the surface between them; the windows which resemble inverted bells and are often employed in domestic architecture, are all interesting. Upon leaving the sanctuary, note the quaint old flat bronze gong hanging against the right wall. The ornaments and relics contained in the wall-cases ranged along the passage from the shrine to the custodian's quarters, are the belongings of the defunct ladies — most of whom are buried in Uyeno Park.

The Mausoleum of the 2d Shogun ( Hidetada ) is adjacent (S.) to the Ten-ei-in. The custodian's office stands between the two, at the top of a short flagged walk, just within the inclosure at the right. As it is the most profusely decorated of all the temples and shrines of the Shiba group, it is generally

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the most admired. Despite its somewhat gaudy character, it ranks as one of the well-nigh priceless relics of a period when ecclesiology was inseparably linked with the unique art of the Hermit Nation; demonology was oftentimes uppermost in the minds of the people; and their tutelars took the form of snarling dragons, impossible lions, and a host of mythological animals grafted upon eager minds by the Chinese Buddhists who a thousand years before had taken them under their mediaeval tutelage. The crested reptiles which with fiery eyes, rending claws, and watchful malice, guard the entrance to the temples; the surly, spiteful shishi which adorn the wonderful gold lacquered panels of the inner sanctuary, and the other emblems which the traveler may note, are merely fanciful symbols of a religion as mild in its way as that often represented by pictures of saintly men writhing under cruel tortures; horrifying roods; sanguinary figures of a gentle Christ suffering physical agony and mental anguish on a blood-stained cross; and of refined women stretched on the rack of the lnauisition, The wonderful art which finds physical expression here proves beyond all perad venture that so-called' paganism need not necessarily be confounded with barbarism.

If the traveler finds certain of the interior adornment a bit too vivid to suit his taste, he may wish to remember that in the old days the fondness for display (another Chinese importation) was so deeply ingrained in the splendor-loving shoguns that for purposes of decoration, the costliest materials that money could buy were employed, whether or not they were always the most suitable. The people were, as a rule, impressed in proportion to the extravagance displayed. In the mechanical arts the simplest effects are oftentimes the most difficult to obtain; certain of the glossy black lacquers are considerably more expensive than others of rich and glowing tints, while the finest and most highly prized gold lacquers not unfrequently look cheap to the unpracticed eye. For many years common iron was imported into Japan, and was almost as precious as gold. The subtle Japanese derive genuine pleasure in the practice of these little deceptions, which are often discern* ble to the uninitiated only after close scrutiny. The decorations as a whole suggest that the purpose of the builder must have been to surpass everything of the kind previously done in Yedo, and to spare neither pains nor expense in doing it. No records exist of the cost, which would be difficult to estimate considering that in the 17th cent, money was perhaps a hundred times more valuable than it is to-day.

The mausoleum is seen at the left as we approach the office. The intricate metal enrichments and glistening finery; the maze of resplendent monsters and the mass of extraordinary carvings, clustering below the massive eaves of the steep- pitched, overhanging roof, amaze the beholder. Scores of glittering, basiliscine eyes glare down from red-throated dragons, Korean lions, ana other fabulous beasts; reptilian heads protrude at every angle in the guise of corbels; and the wealth of fine gold; the astonishing medley of bright colors; the wild richness and barbaric splendor, make the structure one of unequalled Oriental attractiveness. — From the priests' apartment we enter a connecting hallway which terminates in a short flight of black lacquered steps leading to the temple bal-

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cony. The Oratory, 20 ft. long by 40 ft. wide, is entered from the side. The central columns, the pilasters, and the floor beneath the mats are covered with 48 coats of brilliant black lacquer which struggle with the lush colors of the interior to impart a somberness to it The pierced panels of the architrave are intricately carved with peacocks and phoenixes in high relief, and the delicate polychromatic diaper-work under the low ceiling suggests that of an Egyptian tomb. The coffered ceiling here differs from that of all the other temples in the Shiba group in that the sunken panels between the metal-adorned, interlacing strips, are of cloisonne and tortoise-shell work; less beautiful and imposing than those of the other buildings, but perhaps more costly. The sliding wall panels with their funereal slats are of heavily lacquered camphor-wood. The floor of the ainoma (12 by 30 ft.) is covered with many coats of rich Indian red lacquer. The highly polished black lacquered doors (51 in. wide by 82 high) are said to be single pieces of camphor-wood. The sculptured and gilded group of squirrels, grapes, and bamboos immediately above the entrance, is worth looking at; as well as the complicated maze of beams and rafter-ends just above it.

No single room in the Shiba group is so richly decorated as the inner sanctuary, admittance to which is gained through massive metal-encrusted doors swung on huge pivots lot into soffits above and below. The reckless splendor of the display is astounding. Ten huge, symmetrical, metal-sheathed columns; like shafts of solid gleaming gold, rise from three sides of a central or inner dais (27 by 29 ft.) which is delimned by a black lacquered strip separating it from the outer aisle or ambulatory. From the inner side, two larger ones, 30 ft. high and 32 in. in diameter* called respectively Udaijin ('Minister of the Right') and Sadaijin ('Minister of the Left'), spring up at the right and left of the wide table on which the shrine stands. Each is said to have been hewn from a single keyahi trunk, and both rank among the largest in Japan. The custom of first wrapping these immense timbers with a sort of buckram to prevent the outer coating of gold foil flaking off through climatic influences at work in the wood, can be studied to advantage on certain of them, as the weight of the 275 or more years that rest'upon them have slightly marred them. In the center of the canopy-like ceiling held up by these wonderful glittering columns, on a huge latescent gold disk, is a great gleaming-eyed, minatory dragon, the work of Kano Doshun (1747-97). An almost endless maze of criss-crossing, intersecting beams, brackets, cornices, and sculptured dragon-heads painted in the brightest colors of the spectrum, are discernible in the dusky heights. From the lower and more ponderous cross-beams to the floor, every available foot of the shimmering walls carry some sort of glowing decoration — intricate arabesques, kev-pattem courses, complicated frets, or crests

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and symbols. The rectangular carved and pierced wood friezes of the entablature, each formed of a single longitudinal strip of camphor-wood, and called sukaskibori, from the open character of the work, are 10 ft. or more in length, and are extraordinarily effective. So wonderful are the sculptured phoenixes glistening in all the iridescence of natural color, that they seem ready to fly down from their perches amid the reeds and waves and clouds. The decorations of the superstructure blend perfectly and harmoniously with those below, the light here being tempered by the shadows above. Gorgeously painted arapery (an idea probably borrowed from woven tapestries) that recalls in its opulence the original cloth of gold, sweeps downward in graceful folds to envelop the upper halves of the columns, and simulates the soft curtains enfolding the couch of the sleeping shogun.

Many superb gold-plashed wall-panels of camphor- wood take the place of wainscoting, and most of them carry foliated lotuses in their natural colors. The immense wall-panel at the back of the shrine dais, with two angels of the Buddhist paradise hovering in mid-air above a wide lotus pool choked with flowers, is by Kano Doun (1625-94). The battered war- drum in one corner of the side aisle differs somewhat in form from the usual Japanese drum, and is said to be of Korean origin. The Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, is believed to have used * it at the sanguinary battle of Sekigahara (in 1600). The reliquary which contains the mortuary tablet of the great Hidetada is a magnificent specimen of gold-lacquer embellished with chased metal ornaments, on a special platform reached bv flights of black lacquered steps and adorned with wood- carvings in bas-relief by Hidari Jingoro. Certain of the metal clasps are rare specimens of cloisonne work made when the art in Japan was in its infancy. The long and narrow red lacquered tables which stand before it are superb works of art; the ornamental bronze flambeaux upon them are worth looking at. The tall bronze crane standing on a tortoise's back, and the fat-paunched shishi in the form of an incense-burner, are said to have been brought from China by one of the Minamoto Clan upward of a millennium ago. The metal vases near the base of the Prime Minister's pillars contain 68 metal peonies symbolic of 68 early provinces of the Empire. They were given to the shrine by the 11th shogun, on the 200th anniversary of the death of the 2d shogun. The matchless stands are beautiful and perhaps unique specimens of splendidly embossed taka-makiye gold lacquer; the almost faultless character of the fine tracery (similar to the best niello) and the Tokugawa crests, rank them among the richest specimens extant of this antique work. The sweetly resonant tones of the fine old bronze gong near the entrance have been mellowed

The Pagoda.

On leaving the mausoleum the traveler is given a ticket (free) to the Octagonal Hall ( Hakkaku-do ) which enshrines the tomb of the 2d shogun and stands on the hillslope a few hundred yards to the S. We cross the yard in front of the temple (note the big stone lavers in the yard), mount a succession of stone steps, and follow the flagged sunken way — a sort of open subway — between stone walls overshadowed by lofty cryptomerias. The red gate at the left., within the iron fence, was the one-time main gate to the tomb. In frorft of the latter is the uninteresting Oratory, and in the corner of the yard, at the right, is a monstrosity in the shape of a hinoki tree grafted into a camellia — one of those unhappy perversions of nature of which the Japanese seem curiously fond. Near it is an orange tree whose fruit, when broken from the stem, is said to exhibit a figure like the Tokugawa crest! An octagonal stone fence incloses the gloomy structure which shelters the Shogun's Tomb, which in turn is shaped like a hold, or Buddhist pagoda, and is mounted on a tall granite base in the form of a lotus. Conventional lions and peonies (the king of beasts and of flowers) form conspicuous decorative figures among the intricate maze of enamel and crystal inlay. The scenes on the upper half represent the 4 Eight Views ' of Siao- Siang (China) and similar one of Lake Biwa. Within is a carved wood image of the shogun (who is buried 20 ft. beneath the base) and a bronze tablet with his posthumous title — Taitoku-in ('Great Virtuous Retired Chief'). Eight upright pillars sheathed with (sometime) gilded copper-bronze plates support the roof; the maze of decorated panels and gold-lacquer of the interior is now badly time worn. Visitors are generally barred from entering, but a small fee will secure the privilege of a closer inspection. At the right of the entrance are two curiously carved stones, one (the work of Yoshioka Buzenosuki, in 1645) representing Shaka's death and his entry into nirvana; the other, portraying 25 bosatsu advancing to welcome him.

The Pagoda (p. clxxxiii), which stands near the summit of Maruyama Hill, is weather-beaten, dilapidated, and not worth looking at. Near it are some popular tea-houses embowered in lovely cherry trees, and a handsome green bronze shaft erected in 1890 to commemorate the life-work of I no Today oshi, a celebrated historian and cartographer (1745-1821), who died after completing the first comprehensive map of Japan. The mound on which the monument stands is believed to be an artificial tumulus ( tsuka ) of the gourd-shaped kind used for imperial interments over a thousand years ago; there are two smaller tumuli close by. Princes of a family which reigned in Japan in very early times are thought to be buried here. The bronze statue (cast in the Military Arsenal in Koishikawa, and unveiled April 19, 1913) of Count Taisuke Itagaki (founder

TOKYO Ankokuden Temple.

of the Liberal Party) cost ¥71,000 and was erected in honor of the statesman responsible for the introduction of constitutional government in Japan. — From the hilltop, which is a favorite resort, a fine view is had of the sea and the S. section of the city along the shore.

Descending the Maruyama by a winding path on the E. side, we soon come to the Ankoku-den Temple, known also as Toshogu, because Ieyasu, the 1st Tokugawa shogun, is worshiped here under that (posthumous) title. On the 17th-18th of each month a gay and picturesque festival is held here in his honor, and bizarre theatricals and dancing with masks are performed. The temple dates from about 1620, and though ostensibly Buddhistic, Shinto supremacy is indicated by the mirrors, the gohei, and the two wolf-like Korean lions which guard the entrance. In the front yard, near the entrance to the custodian's office (20-sen fee), are two tall icho trees said to have been planted by Iemitsu (3d shogun) about 1650. The cherry trees here are lovely in early April. Outwardly the temple is ornate and similar in design to others in the Shiba group, with malicious red-throated dragons, snarling lions and other fictitious beasts glaring out from the eaves. We enter the shrine by a long passage connected with the office; the most revered object in the sanctuary is a carved and seated wood image of Ieyasu made when he was 61 yrs. old; an antependium conceals it, but a request to see it will generally obtain the privilege. The shrine is about 4 ft. high 'with elaborate cornices and brackets and with walls of beautiful gold lacquer covered with designs in low relief; 8 small landscape views supplemented by dragons and cloud effects adorn the door panels, and bamboos and pines ornament the sides. At either side of the altar are standing screens on the top rails of which perch sculptured wood hawks in the form of incense burners; the one at the left formerly contained a silver receptacle (which has been stolen). The fragrant resin employed for incense is from the precious aloe ( Kyara. — Aguilaria Agallocha) which grows in the mountainous regions of Cochin- China and Assam. The great shoguns fondness for falconry is shown by the six wall-panels of gold-lacquer, on each of which is a painted hawk the original of which was owned by him: the work is attributed to Iemitsu, and it is considered so precious that curtains usually hide it from the public gaze. Hanging against one wall is a kakemono portraying Ieyasu (center), Minamoto Yoritomo (right), and Toyotomi Hideyoshi all great rulers of Old Japan. The panels at the rear of the shrine show imaginary birds of paradise ( gokuraku-jodo ), the work of some unknown artist of the Kano school. Particularly valuable to the Japanese is the painting representing Shaka, Monju and Fugen, (perhaps) by Kano Masanobu (1453-90). It is noteworthy because the slanting eyes look in all direc-

Keio University.

tions, from which circumstance it is called happo-niramiai (eyes that look in 8 directions). In the two red-lacquered cases at the sides of the shrine are 100 little stands on which are piled, on festival days, the 100 different non-flesh foods that the gods delight in. The bows and arrows (from the daimyo of Echizen Province) in the stands before the shrine are replicas of the weapons used by the great leyasu in his many battles; the metal vases (about 250 yrs. old) with their decorations of pure silver, are gifts from the daimyo of Owari Province.

The Benten Shrine 5 min. walk from the Toshogu, round the base of Maruyama, is prettily located on a tiny islet in a lotus-pond (lovely in August) spanned by a bridge called Fuyo (hibiscus). The wistaria arbor facing the shrine is charming in May.

A short distance N. of Shiba Park (PL D, 6) stands a conical hill called (after Mt. Atago, at Kyoto) Atago-yama surmounted by a shrine (Atago-jinja) dedicated to Homusubi- no-Mikoto (last child of Izanagi and Izanami), the god supposed to protect towns against fire. From the adjacent tower (Atago-td) a far-reaching view of Tokyo, the sea, the matchless cone of Fujisan, the Hakone Range and a number of lesser mts. may be had. We approach the hill from Atago-machi, which skirts its E. base. The most difficult ascent is by the men's stairs (otoko-zaka), an almost perpendicular flight of 86 stone steps, with a heavy chain in the middle, from top to bottom, to aid in the toilsome ascent. The near-by women's stairs ( onna-zaka ), with 108 steps and 5 landings, are easier and more circuitous. A third ascent, considerably to the right of both, called shin-zaka, or ' new road/ is easier still. Many Japanese seek the spot in April when the cherry trees are in bloom, and also on New Year's Day, to get the first view of Fuji. The credulous believe that on a certain night in July, when the moon wanes, 3 distinct rays of light can be seen emanating from it at the moment of rising from the sea. Great good luck is supposed to abide with the wight fortunate enough to see them. The small Tokyo Hotel (native management) stands near the tower.

The Keio University, known locally as the Keiogijuku (Keio Free School), on Mita Heights, a short distance S.W. of Shiba Park, in Shiba-ku (PI. C, 7), was founded in the Keio Era (1865-67) by a famous educator, Yukichi Fukuzawa, — frequently referred to as the 'Sage of Mita.' The original purpose of the school (which was first established in the compound of the Okudaira mansion, in 1858) was to teach the Dutch language to young men of the Okudaira Clan; but two years later English was substituted for Dutch. When in 1868 the grounds of the Okudaira mansion became a part of the Foreign Concession, the school was removed to Shinsenza, and later

(lSTl)toits present site. The institution is akin to Harvard

The 47 Roniru

University in that it is endowed privately and owes neither its existence nor its maintenance to Gov't. The Public Speaking Hall, which was completed and dedicated in 1875, was the first in Japan to be used for this purpose. The splendid new (red brick and granite) Library building (open to the public) in the Gothic style of architecture, completed in 1912 at a cost of 360,000 yen, contains upward of 50,000 rare books in English, German, French, Chinese, etc. It stands on a commanding elevation whence one may enjoy a remarkable panorama of Tokyo city, the bay, Shiba Park, and environs. Beside the usual equipment of a first-class modern university there is a Ju-jutsu School, one for Physical Culture, etc. There are about 5000 students and a faculty of about 200 — chiefly trained abroad. During the 50 yrs. or more of its existence the institution has sent forth about 4000 men, a number of whom have become leaders in their respective fields of activity. The university confers 4 degrees: Bachelor of Political Science (Seiji Gakushi ); B. of Economic Science ( Rizai Gakushi ); B. of Laws ( Horitsu Gakushi ); and B. of Arts (Bun Gakushi). The annual tuition fees, including room, board, and other expenses, amount to approximately ¥227.

The Tombs of the Forty-Seven Ronin (Shi-ju-shichi-shi) are in the grounds of a small and uninteresting Buddhist temple known as Takanawa Sengaku-ji, about 1 M. S. of Shiba Park (PI. A-B, 7) and 1/2 M. N. of Shinagawa, near Kuruma-cho, in Shiba-ku. Travelers approaching Tokyo from Yokohama can alight at Shinagawa, board a tram-car proceeding N. along Kuruma-cho and its prolongations (to Ginza), and descend (in 5 min.) at a point 2 min. walk (left) from the temple; or it can be reached on foot in 15 min. — 1/2 hr. is sufficient to inspect the place, which is of no great interest to foreigners. The anniversary of the death of the Ronin, who (early in the 18th cent.) committed harakiri (p. clxx) after having revenged an insult to their feudal lord (Asano Takumi no Kami, of Ako, Harima Province), is celebrated every year from April 6 to May 5, at which time the place is often thronged. The shops flanking the approach are devoted to the sale of lurid chromos setting forth the carefully planned assault, and of novels and what-not relating to the occurrence. The curious old cart (niguruma) inside the gate at the left, has. ponderous wheels studded with iron, and iron tires an inch thick — a relic of early times. The war-trophies sitting about the yard are reminders of the late unpleasantness with the Muscovites. The gray building at the left, embowered in pine trees, is the Kanranjo, behind which stands the tombs (path at the left) and in which are enshrined (small fee) numerous bits of clothing, sculptured wood figures, etc., of the valiant worthies. The well where they washed the head of Kira Kozuke no Suke,

The Hie-jinja.

before placing it on the tomb of their dead master, is at the right of the path. A small offering is usually handed to the caretaker at the turnstile on entering the inclosure. The tombs are beyond, in a plot (right) girdled by a stone fence and overhung with tall pines. That of the chief ronin Oishi Kuranosuke is in the corner at the right, within a latticed shrine; the tomb of his master is hard by, on the other side of the fence. In a similar shrine, in the opposite corner, is the grave of Oishi's son, Chikara. The tablets on all refer to the exploits of the men. Incense burns incessantly, and many sentimental persons leave visiting-cards on the graves — which are chosen spots for those who wish to commit suicide. The story of the 47 ronin is told in Milford's Tales of Old Japan (New York, 1893).

The *Hie-jinja, a Shinto shrine (Pl.E, 5) often referred to as Sanno, in Hoshigaoka Park, in one of the most select districts (Nagata-cho) in the capital (known locally as Daimyo Koji, or * Noble's Quarter')) is in Kojimachi-ku (from which circumstance the park is called Kojimachi Park) about 1 M. back of the Foreign Office. While the annual festival (Sept.) ranks with the most important in the city (the shrine receiving the Imperial patronage and being dedicated to the Imperial ancestors), it is of less interest to strangers than the splendid display of cherry blooms, which attracts thousands in April. The narrow sloping lane overhung with these splendid trees flanks the Chinese Legation on the N. (right), and is seen to the best advantage from a point near the foot. On a faultless spring day when the buds have burst into flowers and a gay and colorful procession of brightly clad maids and matrons trip blithely beneath the lovely canopy, the scene is unusually pretty and appealing. The sanctity of the spot usually precludes the tipsy manoeuvres of the rattle-pated wights who not unfrequently spoil one's enjoyment of the cherry display at Mukojima, and to many the ensemble is far more pleasing. From the foot of the slope the road loops the hill as if a lariat were thrown round it; a tiny lakelet with carp and fluffy-tailed goldfish nestles in a dimple at the base, while to the right is a stone slab commemorating the brave men who died on sea and land during the Japan-Russia War. The maple trees on the face of the hill present an inspiring sight in the fall.

The 52 steps leading up to the shrine are at the left; men usually mount those of the otoko-zaka, while the women seek the easier onnarzaka, a little farther beyond. A huge torii marks the foot of the incline, and here and there are graceful pines and some splendid cryptomerias; the two seated wood figures in the clipped loggias at the right and left of the great red gateway are the Imperial guards (zuijin)f which are to Shinto shrines what the Nio are to Buddhist temples. The host of spit-balls, or tiny wads of paper adhering to them are

prayers that have been popped in by some credulous (and perchance rascally) devotee seeking pardon for some offense committed, or praying for the furtherance of some personal aim. The funny little stone monkeys which squat demurely in the cages at the rear, enveloped in baby-clothes and painted in comic colors, are supposed to be the servants of Hei ('a warrior '), and are confreres of the many which figure on the altar, the screens and other fitments of the shrine. The old wheeled cannon between the two gates is a Russian war-prize. Black is the dominant note of the interior, the wood-carvings of which are very old — and worthless. The edifice is said to date from 1654, and it was long the chief tutelary shrine in Yedo of the Tokugawa Regents. The Imperial crest is much in evidence. In the yard is a small laurel (signboard) planted by Admiral Togo to commemorate the victory of his fleet over the Baltic squadron in 1905. The hilltop has the reputation of being cool in summer, and many are attracted hither; from the tea-houses which flank the inclosure fine views are obtainable. The Ho&higaoka-charyo (restaurant) — at one corner of the compound — is celebrated locally for its (native) cuisine and for tea- and flower-ceremonies conducted with stilted etiquette. The big red-brick structure visible at the S.W. houses the 3d Brigade of the Imperial Guard. From the flight of picturesque steps which lead down at the rear of the hill extensive views may be had.

Shimizudani Park, a short walk N. of Hoshigaoka Park, is noted for its fine double cherry blossoms and its splendid display of azaleas in season. Near the small pond with goldfish is a large monolith to the memory of Okubo Toshimichi, one of the builders of New Japan who was assassinated near the spot in 1878. Not far to the W. of this (PI. D, 4) is the wide and finely wooded park inclosing the Akasaka and Aoyama Palaces (sometime residence of the Crown Prince), with superb landscape gardens, lakelets, and groves; the annual Imperial Chrysanthemum Garden Party is held here. The region is high, clean, and healthy. A short walk to the W. of the park is the Military College, and near it the spacious Barrack and • Military Parade-Ground (Aoyama renpeiba), where resplendent military reviews are sometimes held and where the traveler may see battalions of infantry or cavalry maneuvering and practicing the adroit moves of military stratagem. S. of this is the Aoyama Cemetery ( hakaba ), where many Japanese notables are buried.

The Northeast Quarter.

The Koishikawa Arsenal Garden ( Hohei-kosho Koraku-en ), in Koishikawa-ku (PI. G, 3-4), within the precincts of the Arsenal (special permit from the embassy, legation, or War Do-

The Gokoku-ji.

partment), though once the pride of Tokyo (on account of its superior design and construction), is now a sooty, blasted, and melancholy place with but faint traces of its former beauty. Tram-cars pass the Arsenal gate (take the Sotobori car) through which one is conducted to the garden; the bronze monument in the yard commemorates Lieutenant-General Oshiba. The proximity of the garden to the busy workshop (which is steadily encroaching on its one-time beautiful preserve) accounts for the many dead trees (killed by smoke and noxious gases) and the withered state of the semi-tropical vegetation. At times the blatant rat-tat-too of hurrying, pounding air- riveters, and the crashing of speeding machinery, coupled with the ear-splitting blasts from steam-whistles, almost deafen the visitor — who is supposed to fee the attendant that conducts him about. The spot upon which the present garden stands was once the residence of Tokugawa Yorifusa ( daimyo of Mito, and 9th son of the shogun, leyasu ), who transformed the entire region roundabout (between 1603 and 1661) into a beautiful park, with the garden as its finest achievement. This is now a sad reminder of the fact that militarism and utilitarianism are exercising a distressing effect on many of the sometime beauty spots of the Empire, and that they are one by one moving toward an ignoble and unmerited oblivion.

Autumn is the best time to visit the garden, as the reddening maples are more beautiful than the spring blossoms or the summer blooms. The different views are supposed to be miniatures of famous vistas throughout Japan; all the formalities of cropped, grassy hills; clipped trees, tiny plunging cascades, and stiff moon-bridges are still observed, but the visitor needs a strong and working imagination to clothe them with romance or any special beauty. The attendant who conducts the visitor about is as full of legends as a pirate is full of oaths, and from him one may learn vastly more about the garden than the designer ever intended, or the present owners perhaps ever dreamed of. There are many winding walks, stone lanterns, flowering trees (the finest of the old trees arc dead), dilapidated summer-houses and arched bridges, all surrounding a fine lakelet: above them broods a despef ate melancholy which one is usually glad to leave behind.

The Gokoku-ji (temple) of the Shingi branch of the Shingon sect (p. cc) of Buddhists, at the top of Otowacho, in Otsuka- Sakashitamachi, Koishikawa Ward (PI. G, 1), W. of the Koishikawa Arsenal Garden, though now weather-beaten and dilapidated, was once rich and powerful. It was founded (in the 17th cent.) at the instance of the mother of the 5th Tokugawa shogun, Tsunayoshi, and is chiefly noteworthy for an idol (of the Nyoirin Kwannon) made of amber, once the property of the 3d Tokugawa shogun, lemilsu. The shabby interior of the big structure is not, as interesting as the fine ol cy trees

TOKYO Lafcadio Hearn.

which adorn the yard and attract many visitors in spring. At the right and left of the stone steps leading up to the terrace on which the edifice stands are some fine banks of azaleas. Behind the temple is a cemetery used by the Imperial Family. Beyond, a few min. walk toward the W., along a good road flanked by a nursery of icho trees is

Lafcadio Hearn's Grave, in the Zoshigaya Cemetery (PI. G, 1). The stone which covers the ashes of the great stylist stands in a small inclosure (down the 8th side path at the left of the straight road leading in from the entrance), surrounded by a low, neatly trimmed bamboo hedge, and overshadowed by some beautiful flowering camellias, azaleas, red-berried nandina domestica, and a number of coniferous trees. A line of maki trees ( Podocarpus chinensis), of graceful stature and foliage, marks the inner side of the inclosure, which is entered through a small latticed gate. Standing within are a number of young oaks ( kashi-no-ki ) and flowering trees. Beneath a group of these is a small bench-like seat, and near it a rough, semicircular boulder, from which rises a modest gray granite shaft with incised Chinese characters. The inscription on the face, translated, reads: 'Grave of Koizumi Yakumo That on the right: 1 Shogaku In-den Joge Hachi-un Koji ' (which, liberally translated, means, 'Man of superior enlightenment who dwells like an undefiled flower in the mansion of the eight rising clouds) — the latter perhaps in poetic reference to the upstanding petals of the lotus, which always form the seat of Buddha. The inscription at the left advises that he ' Died the 26th day of the 9th month of the 87th Year of Meiji ' (Sept. 26, 1904). The grave is looked after by Hearn's family, which in turn has long been the object of the fostering care of a generous American gentleman ( Hearn's lifelong friend), Pay-Director Mitchell McDonald, of the U.S. Navy. The wood strips which rise behind the shaft are called sotoha (a Sanskrit word meaning 'noble '), and the.inscriptions thereon are quotations from the Buddhist sacred books, placed here (on anniversaries and other special occasions) to please the spirit of the departed. Flowers in upright bamboo tubes stand near the base of the monument.

Perhaps no foreigner ever wrote so beautifully, so interestingly, so search- ingly, and understandingly about Japan as Lafcadio Hearn. The popularity of his best books — which, with his Life and Letters (by Elizabeth Bisland), are published by Houghton Mifflin Co. of Boston, U.S, A. — increases in proportion as they become better known. The extraordinary brilliancy and lucidity of his 9tyle, coupled with the vast amount of information which he gives about the innermost life and thoughts of the Japanese, place his books in a class apart. He was born June 27, 1850, on the island of Santa Maura (of the Ionian Islands) and was called Lafcadio after the Greek name Levkas, or Lefcada, a corruption of the old Leucadia. Soon after his arrival in Japan in 1890 he began work as a teacher of English in the Middle School of Malsue, Izumo Province. In Jan., 1891, he was married there to Seteti Koizumi, a lady of high samurai rank, by whom he had several children. From her he took the name (by which he was afterward known to the Japan-

ese) of Koizumi, which signifies 'Little Spring.' For personal title he chose the classical term (for Izumo Province), Yakumo, or 'Eight Clouds.'—From Matsue he went to Kumamoto (in search of a warmer clime), and 3 yrs. later (1895) to Kobe, where he joined the staff of the erudite Japan Chronicle. Ill-health and failing eyesight sent him, in 1896, to Tokyo, where, through the direct instrumentality of his friend Prof. Basil Hall Chamberlain, he became a Professor of English in the Imperial University. Later he accepted the chair of English in the Waseda University. After his death (caused by a general breakdown) the funeral ceremony was performed according to Buddhist rites at the Jito-in Temple, in Ichigaya. His remains were cremated. The modest house (No. 266 Nishi Okubo) in which he lived and died, and in which his family still lives, is about ¾ M. E. of the Shinjuku Station (Pl. D, 2), in a fenced inclosure with trees, about ½ M. at the right of the street called Naitoshinjuku-machi (descend a few min. before the tram-car reaches the station). Hearn's study is preserved in the state in which it was on the day he died. The stranger, desirous of completing the pilgrimage by visiting the grave, may proceed from Shinjuku Station (Belt-Line Rly.) to Ikebukuro Station (10 min., 5 sen), thence ¾ M. (jinriki, 10 sen) to the cemetery (at the E.). If the grave is visited first the trip can be made in inverse order.

The Imperial University ( Teikoku Daigaku ) of Tokyo occupies a group of semi-classical buildings a short way S.W. of Uyeno Park, in Hongo-ku (PI. H, 4) in the extensive grounds of the one-time metropolitan residence (of which the old gate is the only remaining relic) of the daimyo of Kaga Province. Tram-cars run to within a short distance of the main gate, which is always open to those interested. Almost every one about the place speaks English, and not a few speak German, since Teutonic minds have left a strong impress upon the institution. This dates from March 1, 1886, when an Imperial Ordinance fused the Tokyo Daigaku (* university') and the Kobu Daigaku (both independent organizations). The present name was given it in 1897 to distinguish it from the sister institution at Kyoto. The Agricultural College (with a library of 60,000 miscellaneous books, in the Komaga suburb, 6 M. distant) represents the fusion of the Komaga Agricultural College and the Tokyo Dendrological College. The present College of Science dates from 1888. The new Library buildings were erected in 1892. The former fine Institute of Civil Engineering was burned in 1904, but was rebuilt (in 1907), along with the Institutes of Naval Architecture and Technology of Arms. The university is the center from which Western learning is disseminated throughout Japan, Korea, and China. As a sort of Japanese Oxford, it stands at the head of all the universities of the Empire. The gov't appropriation is ¥1,300,000 a year, and there are private endowments. There are 182 established chairs, and a faculty of 365 (directors, professors, and lecturers). The admission fee for students is ¥5, and the tuition fee for the 3 annual terms, ¥35 inclusive.

The well-equipped museum for Civil Engineering contains 136 models of railroads, bridges, canals, port-works, waterworks, etc.; that of Mechanical Engineering, 1800 models; Naval Architecture, 1230 models; Technology of Arms, 150 models; Electrical Engineering, 1800

Geological Museum.

models; Architecture, 8600 models, plates, and drawings; Applied Chemistry, 8600; and Mining and Metallurgy, 12,500 specimens, etc. The Section of History embraces Japanese, Chinese, and Occidental History. That of Literature, Japanese, Chinese, Sanskrit, English, German, French, and Philology. In the Zoological Museum of the Natural Science Department, there is a rich and varied collection (about 6000 species) of invertebrates, including about 2500 specimens of Japanese birds distributed among 400 species (the best collection extant of the avifauna of the islands). Nearly all the common species of reptiles, amphibians, and fishes are represented, including many from Formosa and Korea. The collecton of Crustacea embraces some highly interesting specimens of the bizarre products of the Japanese coast, while the molluscs are also well represented. The valuable collection of shells was a gift from the Boston Society of Natural History. That of insects contains many bizarre specimens from the Loochoo Islands, and from certain volcanic regions of Japan. A noteworthy feature of the Museum is a collection of beautiful and remarkable glass-sponges discovered recently in the Sagami Sea. (See p. 35.)

The Geological Museum of the College of Science (with about 10,900 specimens) is on the ground floor of the Natural Science Department building, and comprises five sections: — Stratigraphical, Paleontological, Mineralogical, Petrographical, and a Section devoted to indigenous specimens of minerals, rocks, and fossils. Among these are to be found splendid specimens of Stibnite crystals from Shikoku; Anorthite crystals ejected from a volcano in Miyakojima; Cordierite in contact rocks from various localities; Danburite crystals from Obira; fine Topazes from Mino; large pseudo- morphic crystals of Ferberite from Kai; Columbite crystals from Hitachi, and other interesting and beautiful things. Noteworthy in the palaeontological section are the Ammonites from Rikuzen, and the Hokkaido; the Mesozoic plants from Nagato, Tosa, and Kaga; Tertiary shells from Oji and the Hokkaido; impressions of plants of the same age from Mogi, Shiobara, and elsewhere; and the mammalian remains of the Stegodons, and a bison from Shodoshima. Many rare plants are included in the specimens kept in the Herbarium of the Botanical Institute. In the Anthropological Museum are interesting ethnographical collections from the little known and rarely visited island of Saghalien, and from the Hokkaido; others from the almost equally unfamiliar Loochoo Islands, and from Korea, China, Formosa, Micronesia, Melanesia, Polynesia, and America. The archaeological collections from Europe and America differ but little from those to be seen in American and Continental museums, but the relics of

prehistoric and proto-historic Japan arc unique.

University Library.

The Astronomical Observatory (in Azabu-ku, in a 2-acre park formerly occupied by the Naval Observatory) attached to the College of Science is the best equipped in the Far East. From it the mean standard time is distributed daily to all the telegraph stations of the Empire, and for the noon signal-stations at Tokyo, Yokohama, Kobe, and Moji.

The Botanical Garden of the University, in Hakusan-Gotenmachi, Koishikawa-ku (PI. H, 2), about 1 M. to the N.W., has an area of 40 acres and is under control of the College of Science. There are 3000 or more native and foreign plants arranged according to Engler and Prantl's system of classification. Besides the various plant-houses in Japanese style, such as the Okamuro, Osakamuro, and Anamuro, there is a greenhouse, built in European style, with many interesting tropical plants. A beautiful pleasure-ground is a feature of the inclosure, which is open to the public (admission, 5 sen). Certain travelers may be interested in the seed-catalogue, published yearly and sent to foreign botanic gardens and universities, and to botanists in different parts of the world — with a view to the selection and exchange of seeds. The Alpine Botanic Garden at Nikko is a branch devoted to the cultivation and study of the rich flora for which the Nikko Mts. are celebrated.

Besides an Experimental Farm, the College of Agriculture possesses 5 forests (intended for practical instruction in sylviculture), two in Tokyo-fu, one in Chiba Prefecture, one in the Hokkaido (of 57,000 acres), and one (of 144,000 acres) in Formosa.

The * University Library, with nearly a million volumes, is a veritable mine of wealth for the scholar and investigator. Upward of 250,000 of the books are in the Chinese and Japanese languages; 190,000 are of European or American provenience, and the remainder from various sources. The most important of the special collections are the Max Muller library of about 10,000 vols.; Prof. Engel's collection for the study of statistics, 5200 vols.; Prof. Dcnbcrg's Law' Library, 6400 vols.; Geography of Japanese counties and towns, 6400 vols.; Documents relating to Buddhist and Shinto Temples under the Tokugawa Gov't, 1100 vols.; Documents of the Supreme Court under the same, 9100 vols.; Documents relating to Korea during the same era, 1 100 vols. The most precious among the rare and valuable books are: The Great Chinese Encyclopaedia ( Kintei-Toshio-shusei)f about 10,000 vols.; the Tibetan Tripi- taka, 350 vols.; the Mongolian Tripitaka, 106 vols.; the Rokuon and Onryu Diaries, about 220 vols. The numerous books relating to early Jesuit Missions in Japan, besides being priceless, are highly interesting records of a sorry page in the history of both the country and the misguided bigots who invaded it. — Athletes are usually interested in the schools for Judo (see

194-196

Marine Biolog. Sta.

p. clxiv), Baseball and Football, Archery, and Fencing. The University Boathouse is on the Sumida River (PI. I, 6). There is a well-equipped Swimming-Station at the Mihama Peninsula, in Izu Province.

The Marine Biological Station at Misaki, in the province of Sagami, dates from 1887., and for ten years served as the center of researches in marine zoology in Japan. Besides a small library there is an interesting aquarium. Situated at the extremity of the peninsula that juts out between the Bay of Sagami and the Gulf of Tokyo, the station has access to localities long famous as the home of some remarkable animal forms. Along the coast, all sorts of bottoms are found, yielding a rich variety of marine life. The 100 fathom line is within 2 or 3 M. of the shore, and depths of 500 fathoms are not difficult of access. The existence of a remarkable deep-sea fauna in these profounder parts has been ascertained within the last few years, and zoological treasures are now being constantly brought up. The warm Kuro-shiwo (p. cxlv) sweeps by, not many miles out, and a branch of it often comes very near the station, bringing exceedingly rich and interesting plankton. The mention of such names as Euplectella, Hyalonema, Pleu- rotomaria, Metacrinus, Macrocheirous, and the Chamlydose- lachus Mitsukurina, Rhinochemaera, etc., will recall to the naturalist some of the characteristic forms of this region. The station is primarily intended for the use. of students and instructors of the University, but its facilities are extended to other persons who are qualified to avail themselves of the opportunities of research here afforded. Every summer a course of elementary zoology with laboratory work is given for the benefit of teachers of intermediate schools.

A unique and sustainedly interesting adjunct to the University, and one which most travelers (who are welcomed — no fees) will wish to inspect (English spoken), is the *Seismological Observatory (Jishin-gaku Kyoshitsu) and its contents, — at present under the supervision of one of the greatest living authorities on earthquake phenomena.

The study of this strange science was begun in Japan in a systematic manner soon after the Restoration; the eminent Prof. Milne (died, 1913) gave the impetus to it, and alt hough earthquake observation began to be conducted in n scientific way in Tokyo in the 8th year of Mciji (1875), the existing Seisin ological Society was not founded until 1880. The many volumes of Transactions and the various copies of the Seismological Journal of Japan, since issued by this body, contain some highly valuable contributions to tho advancement of seisniology. In addition to the central station at Tokyo, there are many auxiliary stations scattered throughout the Empire, some of them well-equipped with valuable recording instruments. In connection with them is the Earthquake Investigating Committee ( Shinsai Yobo ChonaJcwai), established by an Imperial Ordinance in June, 1892; and tho Vulcanologioal Survey, whose object is to study the new and old volcanoes of Japan as regards their internal structure, their rocks, foundations, modes of distribution, etc. Geotectonic maps are issued, and underground conditions are being constantly observed. The earthquake-proof brick building in the University grounds rests on a solid concrete foundation.

Map: Uyeno Park

Uyeno Park.

A short walk W. of the University brings one to Prof. Kano's Jujutsu School (p. clxiv and PI. H, 3-4). The district to the W. contains a number of schools and colleges. The Waseda University (in Oshigome-ku, PL F, 2) was founded in 1902 (by Count Ofcuma) on the site of the Tokyo Academy established by him in 1882. It is an important and fully equipped private institution, with a fine library (152,000 vols.), 178 instructors, 5400 students, and an internationally celebrated baseball team.

Dangozaka (PI. 1, 3), a sometime popular resort (now falling into a decline) a short way N. of the Imperial University, is known for its annual Chrysanthemum Show (held in autumn), where growing and cut flowers are fashioned into samurai dancers, mythological characters, animals, junks, etc., or made to represent historical scenes. A small entrance fee is exacted at some of the. places. Curio-shops and story-tellers enliven the pretty neighborhood — to reach which, take the tram-car to the corner of Makicho and Hakusan, and walk 10 min. to the right. Or descend from the Belt-line Rly. at Nippori Station, climb the hill, and continue along the pretty lane (20 min.) called Yanaka Sansakimachi.

Uyeno Park and Environs.

*Uyeno (or Ueno) Park (PI. I, 4), the largest and handsomest of the Metropolitan Parks, at the N. edge of the capital, in Shitaya Ward, celebrated for the Imperial Museum (comp, the accompanying Park Plan), the Zoological Gardens, the beautiful Mausolea of the shoguns, the Time Bell, Bronze Daibutsu, and many minor attractions, is one of the brightest, cleanest, and highest points in the city, and from its eminences comprehensive views of the environing region are obtainable. A wealth of fine old trees flank the shaded avenues, many of which lead to dainty shrines and sequestered retreats. Vast throngs congregate nere in April to view the splendid cherry blossoms which overshadow the public drive; in Aug. to enjoy the wealth of lotus blooms on Shinobazu Pond; and at all times of the year to partake of the joyousness which pervades the place. The site belonged originally to the daimyo family of Todo (of Iga Province), and the name Uyeno is derived from the circumstance that its general situation is said to resemble the town of the same name in the above province. In the early days the place was considered unlucky and the common people called it Ki-mon, or Devil's Gate. As a sort of antidote, the shogun, Iemitsu, caused to be erected here (in 1625) a group of great temples, the chief one of which he called Kanei-ji (from the name of the era during which it was built). To the whole he gave the name To-ei-zan ('Hiei-zan of the East') to distinguish them from the Hiei-zan fanes near Kyoto.

Memorial Arches to commemorate certain objects or occasions, and structures that house temporary displays of paint-

Uyeno Park.

ings, industrial exhibits and whatnot, dot the park, but because of their fugitive character they are not described in the guide- book.

Information relating to them can always be obtained from the manager of the Imperial Hotel or from any official of the Japan Tourist Bureau (offices in the Central Railway Station; also in the Imperial Hotel).

The Subway ( chika tetsudo) Station of the underground railway between Uyeno and Asakusa Park is about 2 min. walk at the right of the park entrance, a little beyond the entrance to the Uyeno Rly. Station. The trains are popular with the proletariat. The subway was opened to traffic Jan. 1, 1928. The line is being extended.

Good views over a certain section of the metropolis can be had from the right side of the park grounds.

At the S. entrance to the park, where the tram-cars from Ginza turn to the right, pass the Uyeno Rly. Station and proceed along the broad Kurumazakamachi to Asakusa, there are 43 stone steps which lead to the upper level; strangers should read the regulations (in English) on the sign-board at the right.

The bronze statue at the right, of a bulky, material-looking man leading a small dog, stands to the memory of Saigo Takamori (1827-77), a prominent figure in the war for the Restoration.

Takamori occupied a high position in the army of his daimyo, and in 1874 he was made marshal. Later, when the question of an intervention in Korean affairs was mentioned, it was found that Takamori's views were opposed to those of the Gov't. Retiring to Kagoshima (Rte. 41), he established a school to which many of the youth of Osumi and Satsuma flocked. The restored Gov't foresaw the rise of his power and made strenuous but vain efforts to bring him back to Tokyo. The insurrectionary movement (known as the Satsuma Rebellion) finally broke out in 1877, and on Feb. 15, Takamori, at the head of 15,000 men, took possession of Kagoshima. Marching N. he met the Kumamoto army, defeated it, and laid siege to that city—which was defended with great vigor by Colonel Tani. Thereupon the Gov't declared Takamori to have forfeited his princely rank and titles, and it sent Arisugawa Taruhito with a considerable body of men against him. The rebels had to withdraw before superior numbers, but making a supreme effort, Takamori succeeded in entering Kagoshima. There, surrounded on all sides, the insurgents prepared to sell their lives dearly. The last battle took place on Shiroyama, Sept. 24. Saigo was wounded by a ball, and one of his faithful retainers, Beppu Shinsuke, put an end to his life. The statue was erected to his honor in 1899. He was fond of hunting, and the dog at his right was his favorite and constant companion.

The line of houses near the edge of the bluff at the right are popular native restaurants and tea-houses. Behind the small house near the monument is an elevated tomb called Shogiiai, above the remains of the soldiers who died defending the shogun's castle at the time of the Restoration. Hard by (left) is the Kiyomizu Temple (a copy of the famous one at Kyoto, described in Rte. 27). At the rear, surrounded by a low bamboo fence, is a much revered cherry tree called, the Shinskiki -

Time Bell.

Sahara, and near it, a well, both known to the people for a verse (written by Shinshiki, a celebrated poetess) to the effect that 'It is dangerous to have a well near a beautiful cherry tree, for while looking at one, a person may fall into the other! ' The temple is a cherished relic of feudal days — one of the lone survivors of the group erected by Iemitsu; the view from the front platform is attractive. The large picture at the right of the entrance (a portrait of a well-known teacher of the sword- dance) was given to the temple (by his pupils) to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Japanese Constitution. Above the entrance within, hanging in a bad light, is a spirited picture of the battle referred to above. The chief divinity at the shrine is the Thousand-handed Kwannon, said to be more than a thousand yrs. old. The scores of dolls in the individual glass-fronted boxes at the left were presented by the mothers of children whose ailments were cured by the intervention of the benevolent goddess. The fine grove of cherry trees near the temple presents a beautiful sight in April, and gives the name Sakura- ga-oka (cherry plateau) to the section. The hill beyond the intersecting roadway is called Surtbachi-yama because of the similarity in shape to a suribachi — an earthenware vessel in which bean-soup is prepared.

By bearing round to the right of this the traveler comes to the Fine Art building, where at certain seasons (usually spring and fall) art-exhibits of various kinds (admission, 10 sen) are displayed (and sold). From the open space beyond a superb view may be had of that section of the city lying to the E. of the Sumidagawa. The temple in the walled-in garden at the * left calls for no special mention.

By turning to the left beyond the iron bridge we come to the Ryo-Daishi Temjple (Buddhist), dedicated to J igcn-Daishi and to the celebrated bonze (of the Tendai sect; b. 912; d. 985) Jie- Daishij a great court favorite and sometime head of the H iei- zan temples. His portrait is ascribed to Kano Tanyu. The swinging gongs which mark the entrance to the fane; the strikingly handsome roof; the superb laver, and the several bronze lanterns in the yard are worth noting. The double doors (with the Imperial chrysanthemum crest) at the side of the yard give access to the tomb of a prince (a one-time abbot of the Uyeno temples) who for some, time was retained here as a political hostage. The large building at the right of the front gate is a storeroom. The two housed images enveloped in baby's clothes are of the benevolent Jizd.

The Time Bell, a huge bronze instrument near the entrance to the Seiyoken Restaurant, is a sort of chronometer for many thousands of persons who live in the region roundabout and who usually synchronize their watches with its booming notes. Anciently it belonged to the temple (long since destroyed) to which the nearby origin.,*TM

Shinobazu Lake.

Bronze Daibutsu, or Buddha, was an adjunct. The latter is 21 ft. high, was cast in 1695, and is in every way inferior to the great Daibutsu of Kamakura.

The Equestrian Statue of Prince Komatsu (a relative of the Emperor, and a descendant of the Fujiwara)f which stands near the big torii, on a handsome brown speckled granite base 16 ft. sq. (from Rokkozan); is 15 ft. 9 in. high; was designed by Shin-ichiro Okada; cast at the Koishikawa Arsenal; cost ¥100,000, and was unveiled March 18, 1912. — The Magnolia grandiflora in the fenced inclosure at the rear (right), called the Grant Giokuran, or Kinenju ('Keepsake Tree'), was planted Aug. 25, 1879, by Mrs. U. S. Grant. The one at the left, a Cupressus Lawsoniana, was planted by General Grant the same day.

The Toshogu, a Shinto shrine dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu stands at the end of the shaded walk (fine cryptomeria trees) leading from the torii near the main drive; is a miniature of the Toshogu at Nikko, and was erected between 1624 and 1643. The tall stone lanterns were gifts of daimyos. The gateway was restored in 1890. The interior and exterior of the shrine display a maze of polychromatic carvings and diaper-work inferior to that of the mausolea described hereinafter. The coffered ceiling is latticed. The line of framed pictures around the oratory are of ancient court poets. The wood masks with gilded teeth are used on festival days. The tablet above the entrance to the inner sanctum carries Ieyasu's posthumous name, Tosho-gu, copied from an original written by the Emperor Go-Mizunoo (17th cent.). The square building between the shrine and the dilapidated old pagoda is the 'heavenly music hall.,

The Lake (Shinobazu-no-ike) or Pond, a shallow sheet of water at the left of the main entrance to the park, contains an island with a pretty shrine dedicated to the Goddess Benten, and a handsome granite bridge referred to by sentimental folks as the 'moon-gazing bridge/ In Aug. the water is almost

hidden by splendid lotus blooms, and on a moonlit night the scene is singularly lovely. Hundreds of wild fowl frequent the spot in winter and are a delight to the children who come hither to feed the big carp and goldfish with which the water is alive. The view of the shrine from the hill behind the Seiyoken Restaurant is very attractive, particularly when the reddening maples flame in contrast with the greensward. The tall

bronze lute (biwa) in the temple atrium is symbolic of the celestial harmonies produced by the goddess. The brilliant fitments of the building date from 1911, when it was renovated. The bridge is reached by passing beneath the arch at the right. The group of buildings visible on the hill beyond forms a part of the Imperial University. The pond is a relic of the time when a large section of modern Tokyo was covered by the waters of Yedo Bay, and Uyeno was a knoll washed by the waves.

Plan: Tokyo Imperial Museum

Imperial Library.

The * Imperial Library (Tosho-kwan), at the west side of the park, near the Imperial Museum (see the accompanying plan), was established in 1885 and stands at the head of the hundreds of public libraries, with their thousands of books, throughout the Empire. It is a priceless boon to the host of struggling and impecunious students who draw knowledge from its (approximately 600,000) volumes (in Japanese, English, Russian, Chinese, German, French, and Italian). More than a million persons visit it each year, several thousands of whom are foreigners. There are catalogues, a comprehensive card-system, special reading-rooms (some for # ladies exclusively), many newspapers on file, and practically all the fitments of the most modern library. A copy of every book printed in Japan must be sent to the library, which in a way is similar to the Congressional Library at Washington. There is a small annual membership fee for those who can pay it, and properly accredited persons can take books home to read.

The original building was so badly damaged by the earthquake of 1923 that a new and better one was deemed advisable. It is a stately gray structure built on classical lines, and is as attractive to the eye as the institution is serviceable to the people. Near by is the new and handsome Fine Arts Hall (bijitsu-kwan), where from time to time temporary exhibitions of fine arts can be seen.

The * Zoological Garden ( dobutsu-en ) contains an assemblage of animals ranging from polar bears to wallabies. The uneven character of the hillsides Qver which the enclosure extends permits of numerous attractive terraces, lakelets, miniature landscape gardens and whatnot. The grounds are clean and inviting. The fauna and avifauna of the Japanese possessions are well represented. Open all day. Small entrance fee.

The * Tokyo Imperial Museum ( teikoku or Uyeno hakubutsukwari), a government institution standing back in a wide, attractive, 26-acre park with a pond, a fountain and many flowering trees, is near the center of Uyeno Park (see the plan) and is by far the most important museum of the Empire.

It is open daily (small admission fee) from 8-9 a.m. to 4-6 p.m. (except on the days following national holidays) and should be visited by everyone interested in the different Japanese epochs and the superb fine arts that characterized them.

The imposing old gateway (full of shot holes) is the sole surviving relic of the original dwelling of the sometime splendid Kwanei-ji Temple (which is said to have been finer and more imposing than any of the present structures at Nikko).

In 1883 a semi-classical red brick and granite structure Alhambraic in appearance, with twin miradores on the roof and considerable polyfoil tracery about the Moorish windows, was erected to house the magnificent collection gathered in the manner described hereinbelow. In 1910 a new, stately, left

Imperial Museum.

wing (hyokei-kwan\ an Ionicized, triple-domed edifice of gray granite, charming in its classical simplicity, was built to accommodate the valuable additions acquired from time to time. Two handsome bronze lions, some bronze Greek vases, and other adornments were added, and the whole given by the Tokyo Municipality in congratulatory commemoration of the wedding (in 1900) of the Crown Prince ( Yoshihito ) who became Emperor in 1912 (and died in 1926).

The earthquake of 1923 ruined all the buildings except the left wing, and they are now being reconstructed. The exhibits, which were saved, will be replaced as soon as the rooms are ready for them. Hence the following description, which in a general sense again will apply when the buildings are restored, has been allowed to stand. It will be changed in the necessary minor details when the exhibits are again all in place.

The nucleus of the splendid and sustainedly interesting collection (to which additions are constantly being made) was established in the later days of the shogunate, from whose hands it passed into those of the present Gov't. Since 1886 it has been under the control of the Household Department; its excellent organization is due to the indefatigable energy and foresight of Baron Kuki, Director of the Fine Arts at the close of the last century. There are upward of 170,000 articles (2000 of which are the personal property of the Emperor, and 4000 of which were contributed by various public-spirited citizens) classified under the heads of Departments of Industrial Art; Fine Arts; Natural Products; and History. Though practically free from forgeries the collection contains many copies of objects (particularly in sculptured wood) exhibited in other museums through the country, but these are usually so marked. Following the Japanese custom of retiring certain articles from view at stated times, and either storing them for a brief period or loaning them to other museums in the Empire, but few of the exhibits can be called permanent; those in the Department of Industrial Arts are admittedly temporary and are changed sometimes as often as twice a month. In cases where articles mentioned in this Guidebook have been temporarily withdrawn, if stored in the museum godown they can be seen on presentation of a letter from some one in authority, or on payment of a small fee if application be made at the museum office. Nearly 300,000 persons visit the museum each year, of which about 35,000 are school teachers and their pupils — who are all admitted free. A magnificent collection of gold coins was stolen from the rooms in 1911 and was not recovered. With characteristic and praiseworthy foresight, the patriotic men of the Gov't are sedulously adding to the assemblage of the now almost priceless relics of the early history of the race, and the museum now easily ranks (in a smaller way) with that of South Kensington, the Metropolitan Museum at New York,

Imperial Museum.

and the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. The decree by which monasteries and temples throughout the Empire are compelled to make temporary deposits of their portable treasures in the museums of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Nara, is of great benefit to the public, particularly to those strangers who might be unable to visit certain of the most distant Buddhist repositories. Other excellent features are the special exhibits sometimes arranged to commemorate the birth of the death of a master whose work is shown, or to correspond to certain eras or a zodiacal symbol appropriated to each new year. Thus the year of the boar, the crane (a favorite symbol), or the pine, may be inaugurated by an exhibition of works of art in which these signs figure.

The highly interesting collection of prehistoric objects is perhaps unique in that it is derived mainly from authentic finds made within the confines of the Empire. The series of archaic pre-Buddhist potteries found in the soil or in tombs is of great archaeological importance. Finds of this nature are made from time to time somewhere on the islands, and are not unfrequently presented to the museum — which also accepts deposits and temporary loans from private collectors. The fugitive character of the exhibits renders it impracticable to describe the contents of the museum in detail and be certain not to confuse or mislead the reader. The men in charge are making efforts properly to classify and label the more or less permanent objects, and to add bi-lingual annotations that will help the stranger to a proper understanding of them.

The collections of porcelains and pictures are incomplete, and are inferior to those of certain private collectors; neither are representative of the evolution and development of these great arts in Japan, and in neither are there many rare or precious examples. In these, as well as in its collection of sculptures, the Tokyo Museum is inferior to those of Kyoto and Nara. The paucity of the widely famous color-prints (p. 231), now so much admired abroad, is due in a measure to foreign appreciation of their rare worth. While the Japanese were regarding the best work of the inimitable Hokusai, Hiroshige, and other native artists as mere playthings for children, and unworthy to be ranked with the national arts of Europe and the West, connoisseurs of those countries were showing their conception of their value by diligently collecting them. When the Japanese awoke to this fact many of the.finest specimens had been expatriated beyond recall.

The Entrance Hall has for its largest object an equestrian statue in plaster (copy of the one in bronze, in the yard of the Staff Office) of the late Prince Arisugawa. The huge and fantastically decorated drum backed by a sort of tall gilded man- dorla covered with Buddhist symbols, which usually stands just within th<jgfeat the left, wa spe-

TOKYO Imperial Museum.

cial festival occasions and is an alleged copy of the

Room i, with a fine and extensive collection of ancient and modern bronzes, damascene and other metal pieces, enriched here and there with some notable specimens of Chinese 10th- cent. work. The inlaid bronzes (particularly the gold-bronze with damascening) are excellent examples of a difficult craft in which the Japanese excel. The ancient metal mirrors, of which there are a number, are partly of Chinese (14th cent.) and partly Korean origin; as are also the curious old bells. The various specimens of sword-furniture are ancient and modern.

Room 2 contains many authentic sculptured wood figures so highly prized as to be considered national treasures; prominent among them is a large but daintily slender, gold-flecked, seated figure of an Indian goddess, with a disk at the back, the right leg crossed over the left knee, and the right hand lifted to the face. There is little subtlety and less charm in this vermiculated figure (which came from the Horyuji, near Nara), the chief interest of which lies in the fact that it is of 7th-cent. workmanship and that it represents, with its manifest Hindu character, one of the earliest specimens of native sculpture after the introduction of Buddhism, — perchance the first lisping of the new art in Japan. Many statuesque carved and gilded figures in a standing or seated attitude are ranged round the room, some in glass cases and all badly mauled by the hand of time. Noteworthy among them are two splendid Buddhas of fine wood covered with gold foil, crowned and bejeweled, and on intricately carved bases., Both (the property of Count Tanaka) are superb examples of the flourishing art of the Ashikaga period, and they are among the best that the traveler will see in Japan. The magnificently carved and gilded mandorlas which back them, each displaying six flying tennin sculptured in bold relief, are executed with a skill no whit inferior to the best effort of Jose Churriguera. A curious Eleven-faced Kwannon, life-size, with tarnished jewels on her sometime gilded breast, stands in the same case with one of the Buddhas, and dates from the 9th cent. The misshapen, carved, colored, and lacquered wood figure (dating from the Kamakura epoch) which stands in the case with the other Buddha, and surmounts a venomous gnome (typifying pestilence and calamity) is Zochoten, one of the Gods of the Four Directions, who attacks and repels demons. The two flat, pierced, and sculptured wood panels framed against a white ground, in one of the wall-cases, are celebrated pieces ascribed to Kobo-daishi; the other ten that complete the original twelve are in

Imperial Museum.

the Nara Museum. In other cases in the room are a host of wood and metal Buddhas and other saints of the Buddhist pantheon, from Siam, Burma, China, India, and Tibet. Some are hung with tarnished dingle-dangles, others are dad in gracefully flowing draperies delicately carved out of the wood, and ail are more or less interesting examples of early craftsmanship. The small 12th-cent. figures of colored and lacouered wood ascribed to Unkei are more likely copies of the originals at Nara. A strikingly handsome 16th-cent. sculptured wood figure of Shaka (Sakyti-muni) stands on a finely colored wood base in one of the cases and is well worth looking at, a s it is the finest, in point of decoration, in the room. The superb drapery is picked out in an amazingly delicate and intricate pattern of gold-lacquer, and this design runs quite round the figure, the forehead of which is adorned with a white and a pink crystal boss. The features have a strong Hebrew cast, and the flame-tipped mandorla bears Sanscrit characters. The very ancient seated wood figure of a fierce deity backed by a flaming mandorla is Fudo, and the other big one in the same case, Jizo; both are fine specimens of the Fujiwara epoch. Another statue worth noting is that of the willowy, sylph-like Arya Avalokitesvara — 8th-cent. copper work. Also a richly chased and sculptured figure of Gitama Buddha, with a face which was formerly covered with bright gold foil, but which has turned black with extreme age. The crudely carved but highly prized figurine of the Empress Jingo (the alleged invader of Korea in a.d. 200) perhaps dates from the 3d or 4th cent, of the Christian era. A fine Hindu trimurti, with a face of Vishnu at the right, Siva at the left, and Brahma in the middle, is sometimes displayed in this room.

Room 3 is devoted to an interesting assortment of miscellaneous articles; the cases full of carved wood masks used anciently in the sacred dances are perhaps the most worth inspecting; those of plain, unpainted wood are early specimens of the Tempyo era (8th cent.). The finest (those usually employed in the classic No dance) are lacquered in flesh tints of various shades, and express many degrees of human emotion. Some show furious faces with veins like swollen whipcord; others grimace, look calm, agonized, comic, or angry, and not a few display the hand of a master in their construction.

Room 4 has a superb collection of modern carvings in ivory, wood, lacquer, shell, and inlaid work. The corner closet entirely covered with arabesque and intricate tracery is of Indian origin. The netsukes exemplify a handicraft in which the Japanese display noteworthy manual skill and subtlety. The assortment of musical instruments is incomplete.

Room 5. Old and modem lacquer and inlay work — much of the latter of Chinese provenience, and resembling the finest intarsia.

Conspicuous among the exhibits here, a noteworthy object, is the remarkably well-preserved chest (the property of the Mikado) covered with mother-of-pearl inlay and dating from the 7th cent. It perhaps came originally from Korea, as there is a similar specimen, indubitably of Korean craftsmanship, in the Seoul Museum (Rte, 46). For nearly a millennium it was a prized relic in the Horyuji. Despite its great age the inlaid phoenixes and medallions are intact, and are remarkable examples of a nice skill in workmanship but little inferior to that of to-day. The Q.A. Shaw collection of lacquer (now the property of the museum) embraces a number of good 18th-cent. pieces, some in the oft-copied style of Korin, with superimposed pewter insets. The excellent copies of 13th-cent. work, particularly that showing mother-of-pearl in a gold ground, in imitation of the style known as Pusenryo are interesting. The almost imperishable nature of good gold-lacquer is exemplified in the exhibit which shows portions of the lot (of fine 17th- cent. work) sent by Japan to the International Exposition at Vienna. On the return voyage the S.S. Nile (of the French Mail) that bore them was lost off the Izu coast, and the articles remained uninjured at the bottom of the sea from Feb. 29, 1874, to July 18, 1875, when they were recovered. The best lacquered objects in the room are perhaps the beautifully colored boxes (18th-cent. work by Ogawa Ritsuo ) with raised work in lacquer and porcelain, both of which show in a highly interesting way the possibilities of the medium. The writing- box (for paper) portrays the Chinese Emperor Hsuan-Tsung, and Yang Tai-chen; the companion one (for the ink-stone) depicts the lissome and fascinating Hsi-Shih looking at her reflection in a mirror. Ogata Korin has some masterful pieces here, and modern craftsmen stand before the cases and copy his intricate and alluring designs in much the same way that amateur painters copy the pictures in European galleries. The gold-lacquered box with a black eagle on the top, by Kajikawa 1 (18th cent.), is worth looking at; also the small framed oval picture (in one of the wall-cases) done in mother-of-pearl, and showing Louis XVI working at the bench as a locksmith.

Room 6 is dedicated to (uninteresting) engravings, embroideries, tapestries, old prints, and what-not. — Crossing the rear of the entrance hall we enter

Room 7, with a collection of mineral specimens and pictures of mines and appurtenances similar, but inferior, to the display in the Mineral Museum destroyed in 1923. The huge petrified ivory tusk covered with barnacles was evidently brought up from the bottom of the ocean; the kindred relics — tusks of mammoths, plaster casts of prehistoric animals, and the like — need not detain the traveler. Among the mineral specimens in

Room 8 are some meteorites worth looking at. The wax models of plants in Room g are chiefly for educational work.

Imperial Museum.

Room 10 contains many specimens of the exceptionally rich marine flora of the Japanese coasts.

Room ii has a varied collection of stuffed birds from Japan and her island possessions, with others from the South Sea Is. Most noteworthy among the indigenous fowls are the handsome long-tailed Gallus Bankiva domesticus from Tosa Province. The tail feathers of the cockerels ( on-dori ) are phenomenally long, one measuring 14 ft. 6 in., another, 11 ft. 9 in.

The Toba (or Brocade) Fowlb, from Shikoku Is., nre of various hues (sometimes pure white) and are produced by careful selection and in-breeding. The birds are obliged to sit on high, narrow perches, and are fed on rice and vegetables. The tail feathers are never moulted; those of the hen ( mendori ) are usually a trifle shorter than those of her extraordinary mate. Exceptional cockerels are said to sometimes produce tails 15-18 ft. long! When a fowl is taken out for exercise a man holds up the tail to prevent ita being soiled or mutilated.

Conspicuous among the birds are some stuffed specimens of the splendid long-tailed Argus pheasant; the iridescent Reeves's pheasant; the golden, Amherstian, and others — some from China and some from Japan. The reptilia in this room lack interest.

Room 12 has many cases of stuffed animals ranging in size from mice to giraffes; the repulsively grotesque bat ( homori ) from the Bonin Islands, with a body as large as a good-sized pullet and a spread of naked, membranous wing 3 ft. across, is interesting in that the Japanese claim the folding fan was evolved from the idea suggested by the wings of this flying mammal. Live specimens of the native and Korean bears shown here may be seen in the near-by Zoo.

Room 13, which completes the exhibits on the ground floor, contains mineral specimens, pictures, and working-models of antique and modern mines; maps showing the mineral distribution in Japan; rock-crystals in the rough; many ore samples; and a host of things interesting chiefly to mineralogists, — Ascending the winding stair at the right, we reach, on the upper landing,

Room 14, with a limited but interesting collection of vehicles illustrating methods of transportation during the days of the shogunate, prior to the introduction of the jinriki and other W estern ideas. Among the ponderous objects are imperial carts, palanquins, models of state barges and other ships, etc. The red-and-gilt model or a double-decked ship with many oars (called the Tenchi Manx, or 'Ship of Heaven and Earth') is not unlike a Long Island Sound boat. The cumbersome palanquins ( horen ), surmounted by stiff, brass phoenixes, belonged to long dead mikados. The smaller and daintier ones ( norimono)j more like a sedan-chair in shape, were the gold-lacquered conveyances of the sometime grand dames of the shoguns and daimyos; when passing through the seaport towns men were wont to carry tljem, but maids are said to have performed the

arduous service on the mt. roads of the interior. The great awkward carts ( goshoguruma ) almost as large as a native house, ornamented with tasteless geometrical designs, and with widespread thills, belonged to royalty and were drawn by cattle. The very elaborate modern one (which may be here or in the entrance hall below) is the Jusha used at the funeral ceremonies of the Emperor Mutsuhito.

Rooms 15 to 18 contain interesting collections of costumes, implements, and other articles used in the daily lives of Koreans, Formosans, Ainus, and the Loochoo and South-Sea Islanders; the curious feather coats of the latter are inferior to the similar work of the Hawaiians and Aztecs. Most of the Formosan exhibits refer to the Chinese immigrants rather than to the aboriginals of that island. There is a small collection of fish-skin coats from Russian Asia; boomerangs; clubs, krises, and other war-implements of the Polynesian and Australasian tribes; odd bits of Pueblo Indian (U.S.A.) pottery; some rag figures from Mexico; and some nephrite axes (prehistoric Japanese) that are counterparts of similar tools found in the Mixtec and Zapotec Indian tombs of Southern Mexico! In Room 19 are some Egyptian relics — mummies and the like; and in Rooms 20 and 21 more South-Sea Islands, things, a collection of coins, toys, and other native objects. From the balcony of Room 22 — where there is a comprehensive assortment of musical instruments — one may enjoy a good view of the museum grounds. Room 23 contains lacquered articles of no particular interest.

Rooms 24-25 exhibit a number of highly interesting life- size figures of shoguns, warriors, archers, hunters, musicians, and the like, begirt with the weapons, surrounded by many articles, and clad in the gorgeous habiliments of the epochs in \vhich they lived. A dappled gray horse tricked out with wonderful war-panoply stands in one corner of the room, and in a big wall-case in room 25 there is a fetching little maid fashioned with amazing fidelity to nature and clad in beautiful raiment, sitting by the utensils formerly employed in the punctilious cha-no-yu (tea) ceremony. From a picturesque and historical viewpoint the exhibit is noteworthy. Room 26 contains a miscellaneous assortment of clothing, masks, musical instruments, and the like. Room 27 has war-implements and costumes, and some splendid armor, swords, ana spears.

Room 28 is of peculiar interest to foreigners because of the collection it contains of objects associated with the introduction of Christianity into Japan, and their suggestion of the momentous and sanguinary consequences of that transcendental adventure. There arc several cases filled with the saddening relics of certain of the unfortunate friars who suffered death and a distressful martyrdom in the holy cause, while in •thers arc displayed some of the methods adopted by the

Imperial Museum,

Japanese to annul the effects of their zealous teachings. Time- stained (and indubitably tear-stained) amulets; pathetic little bronze, gold, mother-of-pearl and other crucifixes bearing the figure of the blessed Saviour; rosaries, porcelain figurines, and diminutive oil paintings of the Madonna and Child; little parchment prayer-books in Latin, Portuguese, Spanish, and Japanese; foreign coins found in the pockets of crucified priests; and a host of miscellaneous personal belongings are seen along with the celebrated trampling-boards (fumie ) which the foreigners (as well as Japanese) in Nagasaki and elsewhere were required by 'the authorities to trample upon as evidence that they did not belong to the Christian sects. Some of them are of metal, others of wood, an inch or more thick and about 6 by 10 in. in size, with insets of Christ in various attitudes — the Descent from the Cross; as he stood before Pontius Pilate; as he hung on the cross; and so on; as well as others showing the Virgin Mary and the Child Jesus. Here also is a long letter written by Date Masamune to the Pope, in 1614. Hard by is a biggish chapel bell, of bronze, with the date 1577 on it. In the game case with it are two of the notorious sign-boards ( kosatsu ) with their warnings to the people against practicing the doctrines of the ' Depraved Sect.' On one a reward is offered for information against those who practice the Christian religion ( Kirishitan-shu ), with the date of the 5th month of the 1st year of the Shotohuera (the year of Our Lord, 1711). Another bears the date of the 3d month, 4th vear of Keid (1868). Translated, the text (which is in raised letters) reads: 1 The practice of the perverse Christian religion is severely prohibited. Suspected persons are to be denounced. Awards shall be given. The above-mentioned decree must be rigorously observed. Council of State/ There are a number of Buddhist relics in the room, besides many other objects of religious import. — Descending the stairs and returning again to room 10, we cross the narrow passageway to the red brick annex containing rooms 29 to 37 inclusive. In

Room 29 are various prehistoric remains, pottery, arrowheads, etc. Room 30 is devoted to a rich and varied assortment of singular old Japanese bronze bells, and to numerous ancient objects associated with birth and death in the early years of the Empire. Rooms 31-32 are upstairs, and, besides articles similar to the above, contain a number of earthenware sepulchers in which notables were buried; the images of men, horses, fowls, and the like represent a period following the decree releasing retainers and servitors from being slain to accompany their master to the Great Beyond. In a glass case here are numerous specimens of magatama and kudatama — tubular beads of chalcedony, etc., worn by Japanese in the early twilight of time.

Room 33. The ship-like structure with decorated panels, in

TOKYO Mortuary Temples

the center of the room, is the cabin of a one-time pleasure-boat (yakata-bune). The colossal statues of sculptured wood are skillful copies made from originals at the Nara Museum. The hanging panel pictures in Room 34 are of no great interest; tho specimens of undecipherable chirography are relics of early emperors. The huge, handsomely colored wall-map, lithographed in Amsterdam in the 17th cent, and dedicated to Ludovico XIV, King of France and Navarre, shows in an interesting and comical manner the artist's conception of the world at that time. Of more interest are the painted folding screens in Room 3 5, portraying the first Portingalls and Dutchmen who came a-trading to Nippon. The native painters have given us a highly entertaining vision of these jaunty, swashbuckling, commercial adventurers, and the shaven-pated, vinous-faced friars who accompanied them in their ships; showing how strangely they looked and dressed in those far- off days. The screens and kakemono in Room 36, and the handsome pictures in Room 37, are loaned by Buddhist temples and are subject to withdrawal. Returning to the main entrance, thence to room 3, the visitor enters the corridor leading to

The New Wing, with 8 rooms (4 on each floor) devoted to temporary exhibits loaned by individuals or institutions. Extraordinarily rich collections of fine old brocade silks, pictures, screens, costumes, and the like, are sometimes to be seen in the upper rooms, while numerous cases of porcelains, crystal-ware, lacquered objects, and various fine-art products are displayed on the lower floor. The marble rotunda is handsome; the fine old cherry tree in the yard is so aged that crutches are necessary to support its long, feeble arms. — Leaving the museum grounds by the main entrance, then bearing to the left (E.) we come to the broad avenue leading to the temples described below.

The Mortuary Temples of the Shoguns ( Tokuqawa Rcihyd) stand at the extreme N. end of the park in a fine grove of cryptomerias, £ M. from the entrance. While characterized by the same decorative delirium displayed in the brilliant shrines of Shiba and Nikko, they are smaller and less ornate, and the traveler whose time is limited, and who has inspected • those mentioned, will perhaps not feel repaid for the journey hither. With their respective tombs the structures form two adjacent groups, in separate compounds; both belong to, and are maintained privately by, the descendants of the Tokugawa family. Flanking each of the buildings is the office (shamnshd) of the custodian, to whom a fee of 20 sen per person must be paid. Like the Shiba mausolea, these are protected by an outer shell of clapboarding which renders the interior so' dusky that on a cloudy day the finer details of the decorations are apt to be missed. Long4ines of mouldering, moss-grojyn stone lanterns.

of the Shoguns.

the gifts of various daimyos, mark the attractive approach to the one-time richly decorated and massive gates, now permanently closed. Time has dealt harshly with these once magnificent examples of 17th cent, art, and the hands of irreverent thieves have aided the iconoclastic years in their work of destruction. In general appearance the temples are almost alike, the one in the E. inclosure being known as Dai-ichi O- Tamaya, and that in the W., Dai-ni O-Tamaya. The latter is the most ornate and best preserved. So many nightingales nest in the lofty cryptomerias near by that the Japanese call the spot U guisu-dani, or Nightingale Valley.

Passing through the outer doorway the traveler finds himself in a long colonnade whose one-time rich coloring and crisp carvings are now faded and vermiculated — mere shadows of former grandeur. Sixteen square uprights sheathed in bronze sockets support the roof, from which pend a double line of bronze lanterns, the gifts of daimyos. Massive bronze lanterns and a disused bell-tower are the chief features of the inclosure at the left, where there are a number of granite bases whence other bronze lanterns were taken to be cast into cannon during the battles for the Restoration (of the Mikado). Evidence of the great beauty of the structure when it was new is shown by the many bits of gold foil that still cling to the copper- bronze imbrications of the roof — which perhaps at one time was entirely covered with the yellow metal. The many compound brackets which support the sanctuary roof show all the colors of the rainbow, now softened by time and exposure. Much of the gold has been rubbed off the swinging doors, and the red lacquer shows underneath. In lieu of capitals the upright columns carry many folds of intricate diaper-work and arabesques, painted to imitate rich hangings, and bearing a close resemblance to fine old brocade. Almost every inch of the surface of the cross-beams is adorned with polychromatic enrichments, the whole recalling certain ornate surfaces in the Alhambra, or some of the Byzantine interiors of Constantinople. The ends of many of the beams are sheathed in beautifully chased bronze caps, and from beneath them project conventional lion-heads in brilliant reds and golds.

An almost endless diversity of faultless imagery in metal, lacquer, paint, and gold characterizes the interior of the oratory, which in turn is but a faint reflection of the lavish Oriental splendor displayed in the inner sanctuary beyond. The most conspicuous feature of this kaiden (21 by 48 ft.) is the superb coffered ceiling, with its interlacing twin strips heavily lacquered and embossed with Tokugawa crests in rich gold; and its sunken panels, on each of which is a writhing dragon on a blue ground; fine blue-and-gold cloud effects are features of the panel corners. The wide wall-panels, of single pieces of camphor-wood, are covered with gleaming gold foil across

whose luminous surface charge prancing Korean lions — the work of some painter of the Kano school. The resplendent seat of the abbot, with its many fitments, occupies the center of the room and is worth looking at.

The connecting corridor, from which all but the shogun and the richest of the great feudal barons of his time were barred, Is 12 ft. wide and 24 ft. long, with decorations similar to those of the oratory, but with a coffered ceiling showing white and black phoenixes on the gold ground of the sunken panels, and cloud effects at their corners. The massive doors of the inner sanctum sanctorum are profusely carved in intricate arabesque pat terns, and are excellent specimens of 17th-cent. work.

The Honden (21 by 33 ft.) sparkles with gold and color; metal canopies hang from the ceiling — which is coffered and covered with a delicate lattice-work through which the sheen of rich gold is visible — and the gold-lacquered shrines with their regal equipment impart an air of great opulence. These are of the 3d shogun, Iemitsu (who is buried at Nikko); the 4th ( letsuna ); 10th ( leharu ), and 11th ( Ienari ). The reliquaries are exquisite specimens of raised gold-lacquer; temple-shaped, with quaint locks, and emblazoned with Tokugawa crests. Between these superb and now priceless relics of the golden past are splendidly carved and richly appareled figurines of the deities who guard the august tablets within. Here also are handsome metal flambeaux, lotus-flowers, and what-not; while facing them are series of red lacquer tables on which gold- plated and other incense-burners stand. In a sumptuous little shrine on the floor at the left are sutras, or rolls of the Buddhist scriptures.

Of the several Tombs in the garden at the rear of the compound, the bronze one (of letsuna) is worth noticing. It is splendidly massive, intricately carved, and surmounts a circular granite base of graceful proportions. The granite door replaces one of bronze that was stolen during the Revolution of 1868, when everything available in the shape of base metal was cast into cannon. The impressive gateway and its housings weigh many tons. Sculptured bamboo phoenixes, and mythological unicorns, as well as illuminated Sanscrit characters adorn it, while above all, in glittering emblazonry, are numerous Tokugawa crests. The great stones which form the inclosing garden walls are like those of some castle keep. In this sheltered spot the beautiful Camellia Japonica blooms extravagantly, ana in their seasons come and go the exquisite azaleas, double-petaled cherry blossoms, the plum-leafed spiraea (kogome-bana), with its fragrant white flowers and handsome silky leaves; and many other flowers; prominent among them the purple glories of the tree-lotus. Ienari, the 1 1th shogun, was as passionately fond of flowers as he was of children (of which he had 51, 31 of whom died in their youth), and to com-

the Shoguns.

memorate the former, a graceful cherry tree overshadows his tomb. His posthumous title was Bunkyd-int or 'Great Retired Moral Teacher'! — Though almost in the center of the great throbbing heart of 20th-cent. Tokyo, this sequestered retreat seems a thousand miles from its rush and clangor. Save for the hoarse cawing of noisy rooks in the adjacent groves, a restful silence broods above its century-old walls and its ponderous tombs. Here in this sun-warmed spot perfumed by lush, semi-tropical flowers, and hallowed by the memories of the mellow sunset flamings of the golden shogun days, the dead regents sleep their last sleep, surrounded by the graves of those who loved them, and perchance dreaming sweetly of the halcyon, never-to-be forgotten days of Old Japan.

Regaining the main road we proceed to the adjoining compound, where the Second Shrine (sometimes called Go Ryoya) stands. A second fee is paid and the traveler is ushered into a similar cloister where hang 28 quaint bronze lanterns amid decorations that are almost a replica of those of the Dai-ichi O-Tamaya. The intersecting colonnade, which is newer and brighter than the other, is supported by columns covered with intricate carvings like those of Pekin lacquer; the porch of the oratory is of brilliant Indian red lacquer, while the cross-beams are covered with rich diaper-work resembling imperial brocade. The haiden is 48 ft. wide by 21 deep, with enrichments similar in many details to those of the adjacent building. The connecting corridor (12 by 24 ft.) terminates at the honden (33 by 21 ft.), which is entered through beautiful doors carved in bas- relief. The superb gold lacquered reliquaries contain the mortuary tablets of the 5th ( Tsunayoshi ), 8th ( Yoshimune ), and 13th (. Iesada ) shoguns; of Kokyo-in (son of the 10th shogun ); and of 8 concubines — all mothers of shoguns. The fierce figures which guard the shrines are the Gods of the Four Directions. — In this room there is an exquisite little gold-lacquered, pagoda-like sacrarium in whose duskily gleaming depths is a tiny seated figure of Buddha, a veritable little chiseled gem of artistic excellence. It would be difficult to find a more bewitching example of perfect Japanese workmanship than this dainty, jewel-like structure with its thousands of polished and gilded segments, finished and fitted with the scrupulous care and patience which certain of the early craftsmen knew how to employ. Such elegant little reliquaries are usually intended for the precious bones or similar priceless relics of revered saints, and this one, with its tiny, flawlessly fashioned personification of the wonderful, mystical, inscrutable 'Light of Asia,1 is one of their most satisfying examples. — Among the granite tombs in the garden is a massive and beautiful bronze one (of the 5th shogun) which is a replica of the one in the adjacent compound. The remainder are scarcely

worth seeing.

TOKY 0 Higashi Hongwanji.

The Higashi (Eastern) Hongwanji (PI. J, 5), a Buddhist temple of commanding proportions about 1 M. E. of Uyeno Park (follow the tramway along Inari-cho), in the Asakusa district, is headquarters of the powerful Shin-shu, was founded in 1657, and is a companion structure to the Nishi Hongwanji (p. 234). The present building, one of the chief religious edifices of the metropolis, dates from the 19th cent, and stands at the foot of a long, pebble-strewn yard crossed by a high wall that runs parallel with the street. The twin gates are less interesting than the handsome green bronze, lotus-shaped water-basins, on granite bases in the yard. The several buildings within the compound are dependencies of the main temple; the one on the right just within the gate is the Taiko-dd, or Drum-Hall, where the huge temple drum is kept. In the extreme left corner is a kindergarten. The big bronze lanterns on sculptured granite bases in the atrium near the steps are worth looking at. The most striking features of the massive entrance are the four immense square pillars, cut from single keyaki trees and set in elaborately embossed bronze sockets. Nine bronze-sheathed steps lead to the upper platform, which is also of immensely heavy keyaki timbers, some of them 4 ft. wide and of unusual thickness. Shoes must be removed at the foot of the steps, where they are taken care of (fee, 1 sen ) by a woman stationed there for the purpose. At the extreme right of the porch, which extends quite around the structure, in a huge hexagonal glass case, is a sanctified rope used in the construction of the mother fane at Kyoto. Noteworthy hereabout is the profusion of carefully sculptured brackets and cross-beams in the natural wood, carrying a network of chrysanthemums, peonies, dragons, elephants, lions, and what-not — the whole ranked among the best wood-carvings in the capital. The white beam-ends show a form of decoration popular in temples of this sect. The immense wire mesh which pends from the handsome sloping roof, and encircles the structure as a protection against fire, gives it the look of a vast aviary. The massive front doors, enriched with sturdy bronze nails and ancient bosses after the Arabian style adopted in Spanish cathedrals, when open are replaced by paper shoji which slide to and fro and shut out the miniature gales that sweep through the vast, unobstructed nave. The steps which lead down from the right connect the temple with the Jiki-do, or preaching-hall.

The capacious Interior with its 140 mats is divided into a big central and two lateral naves with an ambulatory. The 14 ponderous, highly polished round keyaki columns, and the numerous pilasters support a network of handsomely carved cross-beams, and impart an air of decorous solemnity to it. The usual quadrangular brass lanterns, assemblage of banners, texts, and what-not adorn the pillars and walls, and the notices mix piety with materialism by admonishing devotees neither

Asakusa Kwannon.

to smoke nor sleep on the mats. The sunken panels of the plain coffered ceiling are of keyaki; the panels above the chancel rail carry heavy open-work carvings of tennin and phoenixes. The high altar is a bulky structure lacquered red and picked out with black and gold. Against the gilded walls at the sides hang pictures of Buddhist saints; at the right is a posthumous tablet of Tokugawa Ieyasuf which is brought out for special veneration on the 17th of each month. The tall, handsome black Amida in the gold-lacquered reliquary, in the center of the high altar, is worthy of note. The contribution-box in the sunken space before the altar is big enough to bury a horse in. Imposing services are held in the temple the 4th week in Nov., in honor of the founder of the sect. On this day the men are supposed to wear the special kataginu (a sort of silk coat anciently worn by samurai), and the women the headdress called tsunokakushi (a peculiar bonnet with antennae), referred to in the Buddhist texts under the dictum that 'A woman's exterior is that of a saint, but her heart is that of a demon!' Minor services are held at various other times during the year. — The big bronze temple bell stands beneath a quaint tower in the temple yard, at the left, near a quiet pool. Hard by are two stone monuments to the memory of the soldiers who died during the Japan-China War; the white shaft refers specially to those killed in the Pescadores.

The * Asakusa Kwannon, or Temple of Sensoji (the Chinese name for Asakusa), a huge Buddhist fane (of the Tendai sect) in Asakusa Park (PI. J, 5-6), in the ward of the same name, a short walk E. of the Higashi Hongwanji, is one of the most popular and typical of the metropolitan temples.

The vast inelosure is divided into numerous sections, one of which is a sort of Coney Island with a score or more cheap theaters, aquariums, cycloramas, wax-work shows, 'movies,' and whatrnot. A host of beautiful cherry trees clothe themselves in their loveliest garb in early April and help to idealize the lakelets, fountains, wooded islets, fantastic pine trees, etc. Innumerable oriflammes, paper fishes, flags, ideographic pennants, vari-colored paper lanterns ( chochin ), and the like adorn the houses and add gayety and color. Perhaps nowhere in the big city can the native life be seen to better advantage. The tourist should not leave Tokyo without spending at least a few hours at this popular resort of the proletariat, where no entrance fee is charged; no guides pester one; no skin-games are practi<*ed on the unsuspecting uitlander.and where the toys and catch-penny devices are so ingenious, cheap, and attractive, that the liberal-minded is tempted to buy out the whole show and give it back to the amiable folks who work so indefatigably for the small copper tokens of the realm. Instead of proving an ordeal the multitude of people combine to form a huge free side-show. It would be difficult to find a brighter, more orderly, a more effervescently happy and less mischievous assemblage, for the Japanese masses possess a self-restraint perhaps unparalleled, and only the watchful, underpaid police discern any silent undercurrent of lawlessness.

The street-cars (5 sen) put one down at the S. end of a long, narrow lane that leads from the street to the inner gate. The rows of one-story red-brick shops flanking the thronged thoroughfare are known as naka-mise (' middle shops'), because they stand between the one-time outer gate (burned 50 yrs. ago) and the inner gate to the temple inclosure. Behind them run paralleling lanes so narrow that they remind one of certain the darksome by-

The Red Pagoda.

ways of Toledo, Spain. Here stand scores of tiny restaurants ( ryariya ) that cater to the swarms of hungry visitors and fill them for a few sen with all manner of strange comestibles — and perhaps a few microbes. The scraping of thousands of pairs of wooden clogs ( peta ) on the stone flagging of the central way is deafening at first, but one soon forgets it in the attractions of tne small shops filled with their multitude of tiny toys and replicas of articles used in the daily lives of the people. Peanuts and popcorn; flapjacks and lolly pops; lurid books and chromos; and a host of gaudy baubles to wheedle the pennies from the pockets of the county bumpkins are displayed on all sides — a small world of miniature arts and crafts priced to please the thin purses of the people.

The big Denbo-in Temple behind a gate marked Daisan-Ku, midway of the lane, is uninteresting. The elaborate gold-bronse statue just within the first gate is a Kwannon. The shrine at the left of the end of the lane, near the main gate to the chief temple, is dedicated to Fudo. The pathetic figure at the right of the atrium, enveloped in dead childrens' garments, is the benevolent Jito. The stone praying-wheel near by is found usually in the yards of temples of the Skingon and Tendai sects.

The credulous believe that ingwa (the Sanskrit karma — from in, cause; and kwa, the fruit or effect) pay in this life for effects produced in the last, and when they wish to be cleansed of any sin they turn the wheel with the request to Jizo to let fate take its course — the course resembling the perpetual revolutions of a wheel. (From this belief conies the expression so frequently heard in Japan: Nan no ingwi de konna ni kurd aura daro. * What have I done in my previous existence to lead such a wretched life? ') It is not unusual for certain of the Japanese Buddhists to follow the Tibetan custom of preparing a type of wheel which can be fixed in the bed of a stream and turned by the action of the current. Each revolution of the wheel counts as an uttered prayer, and by the aid of this contrivance prayers are sent up night and day for the person who placed it there. Formerly there existed in the Asakusa grounds a huge revolving tower so arranged on a pivot that a slight shove would set it going. Prayers were attached to the cylinder, which was kept almost constantly in motion. The same idea (sometimes called 'Wheel of Fortune') is expressed in Spanish churches by a wheel, in the felloe of which a number of small bells are inserted; it was set in motion during mass or on diasde fiesta, and its position, on coming to rest, was supposed to denote a favorable or an unfavorable response to the prayer of the applicant.

At the right of the main entrance, on a hill back from the street, is the Big Bell whose sonorous voice can be heard over a wide area. Between it and the st. are two big bronze Kwannons, seated on lotus blooms. The immense two-storied gateway with its high tiled roof, huge boss-studded doors, and bulbous lanterns, is very striking. On either side, in tall loggias, stand fiercely stern, colossal carved wood Nid (p. ccvii), personifications of His Satanic Majesty; while to the left of the left figure, hanging against the structure, are grouped exaggerated straw sandals hung there by credulous persons desirous of becoming good walkers. The huge paper lanterns are gifts from the local fish-market and were placed here partly for pious, partly commercial reasons, since the donors have their advertisements oil them. The sign-board high up on the gateway facade bears the name of the temple.

The red Pagoda (p. clxxxiii) at the right of the gateway, inside the temple grounds, is a relic of the Buddhism which filtered through China on its way to Japan. The pair of ugly octagonal light-towers were presented by devotees whose names are incised in the stone segments. The square structure

The Red Pagoda.

at the left of the pagoda is the Revolving Library ( rinzo ), with numerous sculptured Dogs of Fo under the eaves, and an inner receptacle with a complete set (6771 vols.) of the Buddhist scriptures. The square edifice between the rinzo and the E. gate is the dance-hall (kagura-den). The large iron 'heaven-water receptacles' beyond the tall stone torii hoard up rain-water against a possible fire. The two bulky stone lions on pedestals flanking the walk, and the pair of bronze ones, guard the adjacent Asakusa Jinja, a brilliantly decorated structure with a red porch, a straight-pitched, picturesque roof, and many swinging lanterns. Around to the right, behind a group of torii, is a small Fox Shrine with many bizarre fitments. Turning to the left, and passing along the highly decorated rear of the jinja, we come to a small, hexagonal building (just behind the main temple) called the Jizd-ddwith a big gilded and seated figure of that divinity surrounded by a host of smaller stone ones, seated and standing on semi-circular tiers; the red ribbon adornments are emblematic of maternal petitions that have been answered. The new building at the left, Daiho-dd, with a tall sloping tiled roof, is an annex of the main temple, where special petitions from pilgrims are received. The sacred white horse, the fountain with its mythological figure in bronze, and the shrine of Ema-othe King of Hades, with the commanding figure of this worthy, call for no mention other that these bean-eating equines seem curiously out of place in an intelligent Japanese community. The big Daibutsu is inferior to that of Kamakura. The small red building hard by is the Yakushi-ddt or shrine dedicated to the Buddhist God of Medicine and mitigator of man's woes.

On this side of the temple is a group of attractive pine trees overshadowing a winding streamlet spanned by a quaint arched stone bridge and harboring many sacred turtles. The flanking bronze lanterns are worth looking at. The red shrine is dedicated to the Goddess Benten. The Hokyo-in-td (' tower of the sacred box and seal') shaped like a bronze lantern and standing behind a tall iron railing was erected to commemorate the soldiers who died in the Japan-China War. The striking saber-shaped bronze shaft rising near by from a broad granite plinth, whose base is girdled by massive chains, is the Chakon- hri, and is a gift of the people of.Asakusa Ward in memory of the loyal soldiers who died during the Russian War. — The flagged walk between the main gateway and the entrance to the temple proper leads between lines of stone and bronze lanterns, and small stands where a petty commerce is transacted in grain with which to feed the tame pigeons and the lusty cockerels that infest the place. The former are as numerous as at San Marcos, or at certain of the Jeypur temples, and the soiled condition of the finely chiseled lantern and temple fitments is due to their careless habits. The big bronze water

jars in lotus-leaf design near the entrance are worth noting. The properties of the many tall icho trees, which stand in the temple yard (beautiful golden foliage in autumn) are referred to at p. 471. The facade is almost covered with signs and inscriptions; the large picture on the wall at the right, showing two men and a tiger asleep, and a Buddhist priest, symbolizes the idea that life is a dream and that religion is the only living thing.

The Temple is 108 ft. square, is surrounded by a wide gallery, and stands on the site of a similar structure destroyed by fire about 1650; the theory that the original structure was built in the 6th cent, is untenable. It owes its existence to the shogun, Ietsuna, and is a fine example of the strength and solidity which characterized many of the 17th-cent. edifices. Four immense red lacquered keyaki pillars set in bronze sockets support the great porch, back from which slopes a splendid, tile-covered roof of fine proportions. The rich adornments beneath the king-post at each end are worth looking at. From the platform, reached by a flight of bronze-sheathed steps, one commands an interesting view of the massive front gate and of the swarm of people pulsing through it. The interior of the fane is not overly clean, and it looks more like an untidy junk-shop than a place for worship. The grotesque figures of grumpy-looking saints, — perhaps so because badly bespattered by the careless pigeons, — the fantastic lanterns, curious bronzes, bizarre furniture, Buddhist sutras, emblems, banners, and what-not, add to the general stuffiness; which is accentuated in a way by the incessant sound of clapping hands, jingling coins, scraping geta, and the general hubbub caused by a moving, chattering multitude. Flapping pigeons dart to and fro, defile the temple adornments, and deftly escape capture at the hands of the children who make a business of trying to surprise them. Crying babies, yelping pariah dogs, and ailing people crying aloud to Amida to help them, add to the general clatter. Facing the middle entrance is a bronze receptacle surmounted by a prancing shishi; a fire burns within, fed by inflammable incense, and aromatic steam hisses as it escapes from the crevices. A host of huge lanterns pend from the cross-beams, and the hurtling wind sways them to and fro and imparts an air of instability to the structure. A number of shrines stand within, and near them tiny kakemonos bearing inscriptions from Buddhist texts are sold, by the priests. Certain of the ideographic banners are petitions for the happiness of persons who have already visited the 188 most celebrated temples and shrines throughout the Empire, and who now lodge their concentrated requests here at the last of the series; others are handsomely executed by artists who pray for a benediction on their profession, and for more customers.

At the right of the inner shrine is a huge framed picture

The Inner Shrine.

representing an ancient lyric drama in which Shojo, a fabulous being with a human form, red hair,, and a vinous complexion, plays the chief part. Below it is a seated figure of Binzuru, the helper of the ailing, with a bib round his neck and his face partly rubbed away; the figure is ascribed to the celebrated bonze, J ikaku-Daishi (794-864). The carved and painted picture in relief on the opposite wall represents three Chinese heroes of anti quit v; the time-stained tennin on the ceiling are ascribed to Kano Doshun. At the tables in front of the main shrine pictures of Kwannon are bought by the credulous as talismans against sickness, and as aids to women in childbirth. Tickets are sold here that purport to tell the sex of an unborn child!

Albeit the Inner Shrine is supposed to be inaccessible to the general public, a courteous request accompanied by 25-50 sen will secure admission and the service of a priestly guide. As the floor is covered with fine matting, shoes must be removed, and it is advisable to ask some one to watch them, as they must be left outside the sanctum; the attendant who guards them expects 10 sen. The darksome, mystical interior is a maze of gold-lacquer, metal lotus-flowers, lanterns, figurines of Kwannon, and a small army of diverse devils and divinities, all peering out from the dusky depths of their niches. The chief object of veneration (never shown) is a small gold statuette (If in. high) of the Goddess Kwannon, attributed (erroneously) to Gyogi-bosatsu, a learned 7th-cent. Korean bonze. Every 10 yrs. a spurious and alleged miraculous image is shown to the gullible; and on Dec. 13 of each year a duplicate is paraded before the uncritical. According to the legend the original image was found sometime during the 7th cent, by three fishermen, near the mouth of the Sumida River, and because it was drawn up in their net, a crest formed of 3 nets adorns parts of the temple. In March, 1911, the image and its repository (along with the pagoda near the outer gate) were elevated to the rank of national treasures, and were made over to the Gov't. The beautiful red, black, and gold-lacquer shrine which incloses it — one of the finest examples extant of choice 17th-cent. workmanship — contains 9 other nested reliquaries, each increasing in richness with the diminution of size; the image is said to repose in the 10th and smallest. According to the temple records, the building has been burned 4 times since its establishment (perhaps in the 15th cent., coincident with the expansion of old Yedo), but each time the shrine and its contents have been saved through a special door cut through the wall at the back. The guardian figures are the Gods of the Four Directions, supplemented by the Thirty- three Terrestrial Manifestations of Kwannon. The two pictures displaying gold-lacquered horses, which hang at the right and left of the shrine, were gifts from the shogun, Iemitsu, at

The Inner Shrine.

whose initiative the present temple was constructed, — although it was completed during the reign of Ietsuna. Above the lateral shrine at the right, where 18 of the figures of Kwannon are ranged, there may be seen on a bright day a huge painting of a dancing angel; the work of Kano Yasunohu, one of the most celebrated artists of the old times. To the right is a shrine to Fnddwith an image of the Fire God attributed to the inimitable Unkei, and a tall, gilded figure of Kivannon presented to the temple by a Tokugawa shogun. A number of bizarre objects are scattered about this room, among them a fine Indian goddess seated on a water-buffalo. The handsome brass and bronze incense-burners at the foot of the shrine are worthy of notice.

The priest now conducts the visitor to the' rear of the main shrine where there is an Ura Kwannon, or rear shrine guarding the door in the wall through which the sacred figurine is removed in case of fire. On the door-posts are inscriptions to the effect that the image was 1072 yrs. old at the time of the Genroku Era (1688-1704). The big time-stained painting on the rear wall depicts the Dragon Goddess receiving from Fugen-bosatsu (the Universally Wise and Benevolent Goddess) a hokekyo, or roll of the Buddhist scriptures; Buddha, Amida, and a host of other personages appear in the perspective. On the corridor walls are two huge paintings on lacquered wood, 10 by 20 ft., and 20 by 40 ft,, depicting the 28 vols. of the Buddhist scriptures.

The altar at the left of the main shrine is dedicated to Aizen Myo-d (the Goddess of Love); 15 of the manifestations of Kwannon stand here, while farther at the left, in a shrine corresponding in location to the Fudo shrine at the right, is a beautiful little pagoda, rich in reds and blues and gold-lacquer, with a tiny Buddha inside it. There is.also a handsome Kokuzo-bosatsiij in a small glass case. Farther along, in a bulky wall-case with a metal screen, are 1000 seated images of Kwannon; the image at the right, on a red drum, is a Chinese importation. The large plate-glass mirror (one of the first brought to Japan) was given to the temple (by an association of wrestlers) just after the Restoration, at a time when it was regarded as a Western marvel. The seated image of the abbot Zennin Shdninf which formerly stood here, is now in a narrow room at the right of the main shrine.

We leave the temple grounds by the wide avenue leading W. toward the lake; the low cream-colored brick structure (cost, ¥32,000) at the left, crowned by a hoshu no tama contains an Indian Buddha and was erected in 1912. The scores of tiny shops hereabout do a roaring trade with yokels on holidays. The pretty lakelet is said to be the residue of the waters of Tokyo Bay which once covered the temple grounds. In substantiation of this fact the locally celebrated Asahusa-nori

The Yoshiioara.

(laverwort), a palatable seaweed ( Porphyra vulgaris) which is now gathered near Shinagawa Bay, retains the name because it was once gathered here. On the W. side are many cheap theaters, platforms for jugglers, acrobats, etc. The lofty tower at the right (220 ft. and 50 ft. in diameter), popularly called Ju-ni-kai (12 stories), was erected in 1890 and is devoted to picture-shows, etc. The new structure at the left of it is used for wrestling-matches. There is a small aquarium in the Koenchi (park), and numerous wax-work displays. — The low hill called Matsuchi-yama, between Asakusa Park and the Sumida, is a favorite rendezvous of certain Tokyoites, who foregather here in springtime to enjoy the view of the opposite Mukojima and its cherry trees.

The Yoshiwara (PL J, 5), or prostitute quarter, known colloquially as Naka, a widely celebrated relic of feudal times and an unusually interesting example of the efforts of a sane and highly civilized gov't to regulate (by segregation) one of the most potent and delicate sociological evils inherited from all the ages (and incidentally to prevent the spread of one of the most fearsome scourges tnat afflict humanity), lies about £ M. northward of Asakusa Park (rikisha in 10 min.; fare, 15 sen ) and an almost equal distance W. of the Sumida River, near the N. outskirts of the anetropolis, in the midst of a labyrinth of dusty streets and tawdry houses, grouped in a walled inclosure (aboutM. square) entered through guarded gateways and policed by a squad of specially picked men. Though supposedly the most grossly wicked spot in Japan, this handsome intramural settlement is at once bizarre and brilliant — notwithstanding its character of a self-confessed Sodom wholly given over to bawdry and hetaerism; (and to the mercenary men of low morals who employ the misguided women for their own financial aggrandizement); to the dominating influence of courtezans and geisha; to paramours and panderism; and to the small army of shopkeepers, restaurateurs, and the lesser fry who meretriciously cater to the unbridled instincts of the licentious element.

It is perhaps needless to mention that* the Tokyo municipality and the better element of the capital are not a bit proud of this ignoble appendage of Japan's greatest city. The thoughtful traveler who visits this spot so far- famed for its ill-fame, will view it not as a wanton flowering of the incontinence which in a greater or less degree is a restrained characteristic of other nations besides the Japanese, but rather as a noteworthy success in preventing immorality from sauntering, soliciting, and elbowing one aside in the city's thoroughfares; from ogling and enmeshing strangers; and from flaunting immodesty and lewdness in the faces of those who are not looking for it and who might otherwise remain unconscious of it. The present enlightened Gov't has repeatedly distinguished itself by drastic legislation against transactions that pledged unfortunate women to a life of shame. It has promulgated laws dissolving, without reserve, all covenants, and annulling all monetary obligations, between harlots and their masters, and it has decreed that all capital invested in enterprises inconsistent with the moral law should be treated as stolen. In one decree prostitutes and geisha were considered as having dehumanizttLjhemselyes, therefore money ue by them, or by

The Yoskiwara.

others on their account, could not be recovered. Severe penalties were prescribed for any attempt to bind a girl to degrading and dissolute service in a ior&y'i, or licensed house of ill-fame. History, however, again repeated itself; age-worn traditions proved too strong for le?islation; and finding that tho world-old social evil could not be suppressed, the lawmakers adopted tho middle course and regulated it.

It was not until Yedo had become tho seat of the Tokuaawa Shogunate that regular brothels were established, and up to 1(514 there was no fixed placo set apart for sexual commerce, The first 4 red light ' district to be inhabited by these "priestesses of humanity* in the ancient capital was founded in a wide swampy area overrun with reeds and rushes. From the prevalence of the latter the place was called yoskiwara, or ' rush-moor.' So that the locality might have a more auspicious title the name was afterwards adroitly changed to yoshi-wara, or 4 good-luck moor.* In 1626 all the stews of the growing metropolis were transferred hither, and among them many bathhouses presided over by Jezebels semi-euphemistieally termed Jigoku, or 4 hell-women,' chosen usually for their beauty and attractiveness. In 1657 this 4 Hell's Kitchen' was swept by fire, and the new houses of the present site erected. Later this became known as the shin, or 'new ' yoshiwara (a generic term now applied to many such ' Flower Districts ' in the Empire), in contradistinction to the moto, or 4 old ' yoskiwara. Between 1655 and 1897 the raging, purifying flames of 3(J great conflagrations destroyed the unhallowed settlement. Each time, and with incredible rapidity, a larger and more resplendent one has risen from the ruins, until tae final great fire of April 10, 1911, burned all the palatial buildings in the inclosure and over 6090 in the immediate neighborhood; killing an unlisted number of people (among tnem many inmates of the houses), injuring 134, and causing a monetary lose of ten million yen. The fire was the signal for a national discussion almost as heated; but despite many protests and suggestions to eradicate the evil and definitely to consign it to a merited oblivion, or at least to a site beyond tiio city limits, the present yoshiwira sprang once more into being, _ and on a scale o? gilded grandeur outclassing all previous efforts. Building operations began as soon as the ruins were chilled enough to handle, and the Tokyo builders established a record for speed never before accomplished in secular operations!

Though architecturally a medley of many styles — coupled with a host of efforts far from stylish — the settlement possesses a striking individuality. Tlie houses are more solidly built than were any of those in former times, and so fearful are the people, that now when a high wind prevails, the local bathhouses (the foci of most of the fires) are made to suspend business till it dies away. Floridity and Pompeiian voluptuousness are the dominating notes; flower-adorned balconies, stucco-figures, tiled insets, and various caprices distinguish certain of the temple-like facades, into which are let the oftentimes coarsely vulgar names of the establishments. Certain of the entrances are striking and elaborate; resplendent gilded dragons adorn the ceilings, and great masses of real flowers in season (and artificial cherry or plum blossoms out of season) grouped with all the indubitable skill of native horticulturists, impart an artistic effect. Tne libidinous masters of the houses practice all the allurements known to them to enmesh the senses of the passerby. Gold, mother-of-pearl, marble, rich green bronze and highly polished brass; native woods of beautiful grain and finish; huge cheval-glasses; colossal gilded temple-drums; red-and-gold lacquer of exquisite native workman- Bhip; and other emblems of wealth are skillfully disposed to entice the wayfarer, the while dulling his senses to the wickedness concealed beyond. Through these sometimes palatial entrances, hung with rich satin brocades, one glimpses alluring vistas of reposeful interiors; of lotus-pools and tinkling fountains; tiny landscape gardens and arched bridges; of cool, flower-embowered, perfumed retreats, dimly lighted, through which barefooted women patter; or, reclining with studied carelessness, suggest Ionian bathing-scenes or other spectacular situations that disturb the shallow noddle of the sala- ciously disposed.

The entrances of the pseudo-' aristocratic ' establishments resemble theater lobbies, in that behind deep plate-glass windows one sees successive rows of enlarged photographs, plain or colored, or full-length pictures of women, and landscape views in which the latter figure with skillfully reproduced

The Yoshiwara.

faces. These pictures replace the 'dressed shop-front' referred to hereinafter. The likeness to a theater is accentuated by the box-office which stands near the door and which is presided over by a cashier, or ticket-taker. A fter inspecting the photographs, and making a mental choice, the visitor sidles up to the box, pays the customary fee, and whisks briskly into the house and out of sight of the cynical loungers without.

The Airoku published, in 1912, some statistics concerning licensed prostitutes in Japan, and particularly in Tokyo. According to the latest returns there are 48,769 licensed prostitutes in the whole country, of whom 6000 are in Tokyo. To this latter number Niigata Prefecture (Echigo) contributes the largest share, followed by Tokyo, Gifu, Aichi, Ibaraki, Yamagata, and Mie Prefectures in the order named. Fukushima Prefecture shows the smallest number. The common price charged for each customer is 35 sen, of which one half goes to the employer or keeper of the house. Of the remaining 17sen, 10 sen is applied for the repayment of the loan raised from the employer at the start, the balance, 7sen, being the net profit. This latter sum, however, is still liable to levies in the shape of funds for the purchase of furniture and table utensils and the residue is spent on toilet powder, and paper, hair-dressing, tooth-powder and brushes for the use of the guest. The employer provides the inmate's food twice a day, consisting of rice and another dish worth from 1 to 1sen a day. How it tastes can be better imagined than described. The woman is naturally obliged to buy something palatable for herself out of her own pittance. Her earnings amount to about 14 sen a day, w hich is insufficient to supply her wants. She gets a rebate of £ sen for every plate of fish or other eatable ordered by the guests (which usually costs them 25 sen, but the vender gets from 8 to 15 sen only, the difference going to the keeper of the house-). The number of men and women who subsist on these poor creatures is quite formidable,.there being in the Yoshiwara 680 men and 840 women, their nomenclature being yarite (governess), shinzo (maidservants), banto (clerks and menservants), and naka bataraki (assistants). There are sixty-four tea-houses where the better classes of guests take their meals or call geisha before repairing to the brothels, and here their accounts are settled, payment being made after the spree, although running accounts arc kept by some frequenters. There are a large number of eating-houses, and those dependent for their support on the custom of mere sight-seers include 40 oden-sellers, 15 sweetmeat-sellers, and over 50 vendors of tsujiura (small pieces of paper with some words printed on them telling the buyer's fortune, or words supposed to come from his sweetheart). The people employed at the brothels are not paid for by the keepers, being dependent for their support on 'tips' which average from 30 yen to 100 yen per month.

No section of Tokyo is cleaner superficially, outwardly more decorous, and freer from ribaldry and pornographic offensiveness than th cjdro quarter; one who sees it in the daytime will find alert gendarmes patrolling the streets, and perfect order prevailing. The same lanterns and flags and banners; the same pleasing medley of color; and the same all-pervading winsomeness characteristic of the streets of most of Japan's well-regulated cities are in evidence; and withal a surprising and noteworthy lack of the degradation one naturally associates in the mind with a region confessedly given over to unchastity. It has rather the general aspect of a handsome, vivacious bazaar; particularly on locally celebrated festival-days, when throngs of sight-seers flock into the compound to witness the various brilliant displays and ingenious advertising dodges (direct advertising is inhibited) evolved by the proprietors of the different establishments. [One of the most popular is the Niwaka, a sort of comic play held on summer nights.]

An unkempt4horoughfare, the Nihon Tsutsumi Japan

The Main Street

dyke1), — formerly flanked by poisonous lacquer trees, — leads past the main entrance to the yoshiwara on the E., and from it there branches off at the left, as one approaches it from the Sumida River, a short, lively, sloping street flanked on both sides by small shops and tea-houses — some of the latter dedicated to illicit intrigues. The first half of this approach is called Emon-zakij or Dress Hill, from the circumstance that visitors to the gay abode of vice beyond are supposed to adjust neckties and make tentative efforts to spruce up a bit as the jinriki whirls them onward toward the O-Mon (great gate). At the right of Emon-zaki is a small Shinto shrine (a permanent adjunct to all such places) called the Yoshiwara Jinja; hence to the gate the division 13 called Go-jik-ken-michi (50-house street), from the 50 tea-houses which originally faced it. Before the last great fire a graceful arch, surmounted by a gilded figure of a woman supposed to typify the Venuses within, spanned the space between the iron gate-posts — the inscriptions on which (by a popular playwright) convey a subtle meaning to those versed in the classic poetry of Japan and China. Liberally interpreted they mean: 1 A dream of springtide when the air is filled with cherry blossoms. Tidings of the autumn when the streets are flanked with lighted lanterns/ The couplet refers to the former line of splendid flowering cherry trees which grew in graceful attitudes through the center of the main thoroughfare; and to the oddly-shaped lanterns on upright bamboo stakes which stood at the base of each tree. When the lamps were lighted in the soft dusk of an April night, and a gentle and caressing breeze shook the downy blossoms in clouds from the trees, the scene was one of singular beauty; even though it showed to what base uses art could be put. The charm of this and of the Yo-zakura, or * Night Cherries1 (a poetical name applied to the women of the resort), is celebrated throughout Japan, and has long been enshrined in song and poetry.

The Main Street, Naka-no-cho, runs straight for 716 ft. from the wide entrance gate, through the compound to the Medical Inspection Bureau, where physical examinations are held each week. Branching off at right angles are short side streets- — Yedo-chd, Sumi-cho, Kyd-machi. and Ageya~machi — some of which terminate at gates closed at night and used as exits in the day-time. Connecting these side streets (on which are some of the finest houses) are certain cool, sequestered byways that recall the narrow, shaded lanes of Cairene and Syrian bazaars, flanked by tali houses whose upper balconies almost touch. These are the most picturesque within the inclosure; at night they are rendered brilliant and strikingly vivid by the slatted cages (deep and wide-barred front windows innocent of glass), backed each by its row of gorgeously clad, black-eyed, enameled houris sitting like wax figures on a

of the Yoskiwara.

proscenium, before wonderful dead gold screens or polished mirrors that add limitless depth to the apartments and reflect again and again the bars themselves and the silent, eager, staring faces between them. In the morning they are often filled with heavy-eyed, languorous women being coiffed and barbered for the evening orgy, or with lively, chaffing ones who impatiently await the breakfast which a scurrying maid is bringing steaming on a tray from a near-by restaurant, and who shrill out mutilated salutations in English to the sauntering stranger. In the first-class houses, some of which are supposed to be celebrated for the charm and beauty of their courtezans, there is no such thing as this hari-mise, or 1 dressed shop-front,' and patrons, instead of seeing the women from the street, and there making their choice, must be introduced by a professional go-between — usually a woman. There are many such 1 introducing-houses * in the inclosure, and some of the celebrated restaurants and chayas are said to be dedicated to this purpose. -- During the forenoon of a sunny day brilliantlv colored sleeping-garments are hung out to air from the balconies of many of the houses, while the capricious sultanas, if not sauntering through the streets accompanied by fresh young women attendants, are reposing in the crepuscular shadows of the inner rooms.

At night when the short streets are a blaze of electric light, and throngs of men, women, and children — the latter usually with bead-eyed, shaven-pated, babies pick-a-back — pulsate through the settlement, the scene is as singular as any the traveler will see in the Eastern world. Foreigners, metropolitans, country yokels, soldiers, fortune-tellers, harlequins, blind-shampooers, female hair-dressers, beggars, venders of rice-dumplings, boiled red-beans, cigarettes, and a score of native goodies, elbow their way good-naturedly through the compound milling with iniquitous humanity. Dapper little policemen clad in spick-and-span uniforms, helmets, and white gloves, and equipped with swords, spectacles, lanterns, and notebooks, are on the spot to repress all coarseness or brutality, and to keep a keen eye out for brawlers, tipsy visitors, or other disturbers of the remarkable order of the place. Frequently one hears their sharp, staccato Kora, Kora! (lit,, ye, but figuratively: 1 Move along there now, step lively! *) shrilling above the din, forbidding frolicsomeness and enjoining decorum. Soon after dusk a curiously feverish but suppressed animation thrills through the place — a precursor of the mise wo haru (lit., to arrange goods in order and expose them for sale), or the filing into their cages of the 'bud and blossom* of the most celebrated joroya in Japan. Then the whole yukaku (group of visitors) seethes with subdued excitement. In the more pretentious houses the women form a gaudy assemblage in a richly decorated room visible from just inside the entrance,

but not from the street. Clad in gorgeous costumes of silk or satin which cover them completely from throat to heel; rigged out in sumptuous coral and metal, porcelain, or tortoise-shell hairpins ranged round their heads like a halo; with penciled eyebrows; lips splashed with crimson; be-powdered and freshly coiffed; these statuesque Eves seat themselves submissively each on her silken mat, where, like some resplendent impersonal merchandise, she waits patiently beside a circular, brilliantly polished brass hibachi, before a glistening cheval-glass that reflects every line of her back and her sloe-black, elaborate, and distinctive coiffure. An assumed look of modesty and candor masks the soul-besmirching traffic in which each is engaged. There is nothing in the outward display that would startle the most prudish. Later, as one by one they are beckoned out and glide noiselessly to some deeper recess of the house, there floats out on the soft night air the tinkling notes of samisen; the melancholy thrumming of silken-girdled drums; the soft pounding of fafci-shod dancing feet; the swish of voluptuous garments; and the hoarse, throaty, contralto tones of artificially trained geisha voices.

Of the 3000 or more tawareme in the shin-yoshiwara (the next largest in Tokyo is the Susaki, in Fukagawa Ward, with 2000 inmates) but few are Tokyo women; they are chiefly recruited from provinces where the conditions of life are considered hard and grinding. Poverty, personal misfortune, and calamities resulting from eathquakes, crop-failures, tidal waves, and the like are said to be the chief causes for girls entering upon a life of shame. [Certain Japanese do not consider it a disgrace for a girl to show her filial love by selling herself for a few years to help her poverty-stricken parents, but rather as an act of heroism.] The people like to believe that there are few if any voluntary victims, and that no one adopts the career if an alternative offers: only the pressure of dire necessity is held to justify the sacrifice. This is generally counted a grievous affliction by these who must have recourse to it, and by friends it is regarded with profound pity. The life of gilded misery led by the women is referred to as 'the painful world/ and each one is said to live in the hope of being redeemed (from the debt owed to the brothel-keeper) by some rich man or lover. Unless this redemption comes early, malignant diseases, premature old age, or a suicide's grave usually dissolves the tie.

Among themselves the women of this underworld call each other ' sister.7 To outsiders they are generally known by fictitious names, such as: Little Purple; Faint Cloud; Pine Mountain; Double-blossomed Plum; Floral Fan; Whispering Wind; Jewel River, and the like. Superior women are termed oiran; the principal girl, oshoku. Poets and novelists have thrown a halo of tender romance over their sad lives, and many 3

The Sumidagawa.

touching love-story has been told and written about them. The women dress in accordance with their own wishes or those of their master; some adorn themselves in fine brocade silks heavy with gold or silver enrichments (and thus sink deeper into the debt of their exploiters); others affect the bizarre fashions of bygone days; while others yet affect gaudy red crape with elaborate collars and exaggerated satin obi (sashes) tied in front (the distinctive badge of shame of the joro). Others essay to make themselves appear younger and prettier by wearing silk crape adorned with intricate figures, purple satin collars, and a maki-obi, or narrow sash, wound round and round the waist and merely tucked in to hold it in place. A significant fancy of certain of these sirens is to wear a costume (long celebrated as distinctively yoshiwaresque)-of fine purple satin richly embroidered with great sprawling red lobsters! Others wear plain crested clothes to imitate special styles favored by their first cousins, the geisha (p, clxi). Musk is the favorite perfume. The studied display of physical charms that are usually concealed is rarely resorted to.

To the shin-yoshiwara and the 4 lesser resorts of a similar nature in the capital come annually about million visitors, who squander upward of 2 million yen on the inmates. Most of the robberies, murders, and suicides of the metropolis are in some way related to these plague-spots, the common name for which with many is doku (poison). Some parents warn their children to beware of their inmates as they would cayenne pepper, and supplement the injunction by a reference to the proverb, 1 Pleasure is the seed of trouble.5 Others exist who are willing to allow their daughters to serve the yoshiwara inmates, and by having them trained in the arts of Aspasia eventually dedicate them to Aphrodite. When certain persons are obliged to mention the joroyathey prefer to call it Fuyajo, or 'Nightless Castle; Hana-no-chimata, 'Flowery streets 5; 'Kutsuwa,5 etc. The gossamer wantons who inhabit it are referred to as 'barren virgins 5; 'strumpets; and by other opprobrious epithets. Certain municipal rules are enforced rigorously in the different houses. A minute description is taken of every visitor — the name, profession, height, facial characteristics, color of hair and eyes, general figure and build, style of clothes worn, personal defects, and the like. When the official blank is filled in it forms an excellent description of the person and is filed for reference. — The numerous towns of Japan named Yoshiwara have nothing to do with the above-mentioned establishment.

The Sumidagawa, the 2d river of importance on the Yedo plain, has its sources N.W. of Tokyo, on the border of Musashi and Kai Provinces, and it is to Japan 5s capital what the Thames is to London and the Seine to Paris. Entering the city from the N.Eit flows oast the Asakusa, Nihonbashi, and

Transpontine.

KySbashi Wards, separating them from Hon jo and Fukagawa (placing the latter in the same relative position to Tokyo that the Thames does with Surrey), before washing the shores of Tsukishima Island and emptying into Tokyo Bay. While for the Tokyoites the river possesses all the charm that the Seine holds for the Parisians, it does not appeal strongly to foreigners. The boats which ply up and down it are small, tippy, and stuffy; the refuse which the converging canals bring into it is objectionable to the senses; the dreadful night-soil boats which glance along its surface and leave a trail of grease behind recall glue-factories and sulphureted hydrogen; and the tawdry houses which back up to its shores and insult it with their drainage add but little charm or picturesqueness. It is perhaps prettiest and liveliest off Mukojima Embankment, during the cherry-blossom season, when collegiate boat-races, local regattas, and the like add life to it. 'The citizen's ideal of summer pleasure is to hire a yanebune (a boat having its middle part covered by a roof — yane — under which the pleasure- seekers sit),, engage two or three geisha, and travel lazily upstream, with scull or sail, debarking at one of the many famous restaurants that line both banks of the river, whence he drifts home, after dinner, along the path of the moonbeams, merry, musical, and perhaps love-sick. These delights culminate at a f£te called the "river opening" ( kawa-biraki ) which takes place nominally on " moon-night" in midsummer. Those for whom the fete is organized contribute nothing to the preparations. All that part of the affair is undertaken by the riverside restaurants and boat-house keepers, who, for the sake of the throng of customers that the celebration brings, put up a considerable sum to purchase fireworks.' At this time the long Ryogoku Bridge is packed with spectators, the surface of the turgid river is almost covered with canopied craft adorned with colored paper lanterns, the air vibrates with the shouts of roysterers; the clapping of hands; the tinkling of samisen; the tuneless voices of singing geisha; and the thrumming of unsympathetic drums, and tne whole represents one of Tokyo's most popular festivals. Boats should be engaged in advance. Consult the hotel manager. There is a funayado, or place where boats can be hired, near the Ryogoku Bridge, on the Nihonbashi side.

Transpontine Tokyo (Pl.I-J, 7-8), a wide, unkempt region delimned by the Hon jo and Fukagawa Wards and separated from Tokyo proper by the wide and swift Sumida River, possesses but few attractions for foreigners. Several big bridges — the Azuma- Umaya- and Ryogoku-bashi ('two- province bridge,' so-called because Honjo-ku belonged formerly to another province) — link the latter ward and its dull streets to the lively Asakusa; vriiile farther to the S. the Shin-Ohashi ('new great/bridge '676 ft. long, begun in 1909 and completed

Kameido.

in 1912 at a cost of ¥590,000) joins Honjo to Nihonbashi-ku. The Eitai-bashi connects Fukagawa with Kyobashi-ku. Ryogoku-bashi is a sort of miniature Brooklyn Bridge where pyrotechnic displays are to be seen on summer nights, and from which sad souls with suicidal thoughts leap off sometimes, to smother their dark sorrow in the sooty funnel of a passing steamship! The most southerly of the bridges is the small Aioi-bashi, a sort of Japanese Bridge of Sighs, over which recalcitrants are conducted to the big prison on Tsukishima, in Tokyo Bay. The Mercantile Marine and the Marine Products Schools near the entrance are of interest chiefly to seamen. Neither Honjo nor Fukagawa is noted for pulchritude, or for odors that recall those of Araby the Blest. On the contrary, the sixty-six distinct stenches for which Cologne was once celebrated seem to have taken up their quarters here in the foul open drains, and the odoriferous truck-gardens which reach quite up to the ragged and melancholy outskirts. The Fukagawa Park, with its Hachiman Shrine, and Temple to Fudo, is inferior to Uyeno, Shiba, or Hibiya, and the yoshiwara is smaller than that of the metropolis. According to a local writer 1 many kinds of fish and turtles are nursed ' in the Fish Nurseries.

Mukojima ('opposite island *), in Honjo-ku (PL J, 6), once celebrated for its fine cherry trees, is declining in popularity with the better classes. The double line of gnarled cherry trees planted in the 18th cent, was badly injured by the floods of 1912. The pretty spectacle offered by the cherry blooms in April is often marred by the antics of the thirsty coolies who soak sake while enjoying the floral display and sometimes encroach upon the reserve of others.

A finer and in every way more attractive display can be seen in Uyeno Park, which also has the advantage of being cleaner, and more accessible to the hotel! Other displays of this quasinational flower are mentioned in different places throughout the guidebook.

See also the reference to flowers under Atami, page 62.

Kameido (PL J, 8), with its Shrine and Wistaria Garden, in Honjo-ku, in a tawdry neighborhood near the N.E. outskirts of the city, should be visited in late April or early May, as the wistaria usually begin to droop about the end of the first week in May. An easy way to reach the park is to board a train of the Gov't lily. (Sobu Line) at Ryogoku Station (Pl. I, 7) and proceed (fare, 15 sen) to Kameido Station, thence turn N. and walk 12 min. The small temple grounds stand in the midst of a sea of low native houses whose surroundings are without interest. The narrow thoroughfare leading to the entrance termin

ates in a handsomely carved gateway in the natural wood, adorned with shishi, fishes, birds, dragons, and wave-patterns.

Kameido Gardens.

Just within the inclosure is a locally celebrated Drum Bridge ( Taiko-bashi ), a time-worn structure over whose high hump devotees climb (risky with high-heeled shoes) as an act of special devotion to the divinity to whom the shrine is consecrated. Ladies usually elect to approach the shrine along the picturesque pathways at the right and left of the pond. Beyond the first bridge is a second smaller one facing an attractive eight-roofed gate surmounted by sculptured dragons, turtles, and phoenixes. At the foot are stone Dogs of Fo, and behind them, in glassed-in cages, are carved and painted gods in the guise of zuijin, or the ancient guards of nobility. The grounds are laid out in imitation of those in which Suga wara Michizane, to whom the shrine is dedicated, lived and died in exile (in Kyushu). The pond is called Shinji-no-ikef or 1 Pond of the Heart/ because of its fancied resemblance in shape to this organ. The name Kameido issaid to be derived from kamei (lit., sitting like a tortoise, with the feet spread out behind), wherefore the big stone tortoise which the visitor will note a few yards to the right of the temple. Some pretty bridges span the narrowest parts of the pond, and many graceful trees overshadow it.

The Wistaria (p. 119), which most foreign travelers come to see, hangs in splendid cream-white and pale-lilac clusters, 3-5 ft. long, from the trellises which flank three sides of the pond, and by reflecting themselves in the water create a lovely picture. Thousands of pendants sway to and fro with the wind and early in May scatter their fragile petals like snowflakes on the walks and the surface of the pond. During the season many flower-loving Japanese sit on the broad platforms extending out from the tea-houses to enjoy the scene. Along the walks are many tiny shops where artificial flowers made in the form of wistaria hair-ornaments, metal turtles, tiny hand- painted porcelain cups (attractive souvenirs, 10 sen each), and other gewgaws are sold. Many jugglers ply their deceptive profession here. — The chief shrine is just beyond the second bridge; the gold screens and pictures — the latter representing certain of the ancient pantomimic religious dances — which adorn the interior are relics of the time when Buddhism and Shintoism were often worshiped under the same roof. The image of Michizane, who is here worshiped as the God of Literature, is carved out of the wood of a plum tree which grew in the yard of the chief shrine at Dazaifu. One of the popular festivals falls in Jan. of each year.

The Kameido Plum Gardens ( Ume-yashiki) lie aboutM. E. (PI. J, 8) of the Kameido Shrine, and are beautiful when the blossoms come out in March (the latest of the Tokyo plums to bloom). Many of the remaining trees are very old and decrepit; the pleasure of a visit to the garden (no fees) is diminished by the offensive stench which arises from the open sewers in the neighborhood.

The Eko-in.

The Hori Kiri Iris Gardens (PI. J, 6) are about 2 M. E. of Mukojima and are reached by jinriki (a special bargain must be made with the runner); the flowers are at their best in June.

The Eko-in ('a Buddhist temple where mass is said for the dead'), a well-known fane belonging to the Jodo sect (p. cxcix), is within 5 min. walk of the Ryogoku-bashi (PI. H, 7) in Honjo- ku, adjacent to the National Art Hall ( Kokugi-kwan ) where wrestling and such exhibitions are held. The main entrance is from the side street, and the long, flagged yard was for years the most popular wrestling-arena in the city. The chief object of interest in the rather nondescript temple is the huge recumbent figure of the dead Buddha, near which is an inscription to the effect that: 'If you wish immortality and a future life, do not cease to pray earnestly/ In a small reliquary behind is a sculptured image of the founder of the Jodo sect (anniversary services in April). The red and gold-lacquered main altar contains a seated figure of Amida. The carved wood statue of Buddha is supposed to represent him when he emerged from his long retirement and meditation in the mts. The room at the right contains some passable kakemono and several small shrines of beautiful workmanship. — The small white temple midway between the gate and the main structure, though closed to the general public, will be opened for a small fee (shoes must be left at the entrance). The fine main shrine ( zushi ) of rich gold-lacquer adorned with subdued colors and intricately carved in bas-relief, is made in a style peculiar to the Jodo sect and resembles an antique German wood press; all the panels carry complicated traceries and figurines, and the inner side of the doors are of beautiful gold lacquer-adorned with delicately painted figures. The central Kwannon, a gift by the mother of the 4th Tokugawa shogun, is known as the Ichi-gon Kwannon because it will receive a single petition only from any one person. The coffered ceiling is richly painted., and the two big Nio are worth looking at. The figures at the right of the shrine are the 33 terrestrial representations of Kwannon. The great dragon which adorned the ceiling was ruined by the fire of 1855.

At the rear of the main temple (path at the right) is a locally famous cemetery, often referred to as the Burying-Ground of the Nameless Dead. Here lie untold thousands of the unfortunates who were burned in the great fire of 1657, and those who were killed in the equally destructive earthquake of 1855.

This great conflagration is but one of the many sinister and similar disasters which in times gone by have scourged the Japanese metropolis. History- records that the fire burned with great fury during two entire days and nights, and that 107,046 people perished. A common pit was dug for the bodies; priests from all the different Buddhist sects foregathered at the sepulcher, and during 7 days a thousand scrolls of the sacred book were recited for the repose of their souls. The immense grave was called the Muenzuka ('tomb of one dead with no relative alive'), and later the temple which was built near it was called the Muen-ji, or temple of persons without living relatives.

St. Luke's Hospital.

without relation or kindred). Segaki (masses for the spirits of the dead having no relations) are regularly held on. the 2d and 19th of each month. Because the dead buried at the temple were without relatives who could support the temple, Eko-in was for a long time the place where sacred images were brought from the provinces to be worshiped by the people of Yedo, and in order to swell the meager receipts public performances were given in the temple atrium. Prayers were (and still continue to be) offered up here for the souls of dead animals, and a small fee will procure a short service and burial in the adjacent grounds for cats, dogs, and other domestic pets.

Conspicuous among the graves is that of Nezumi Kozo, the Japanese Robin Hood: a national and historical figure, the theme of many a story. Robber of the rich and protector of the poor, Nezumi ('rat,' the robber of the household) Kozo (a small, lithe person) was a little man of keen wit and remarkable agility and prowess — the darling of thg proletariat. His droll and daring exploits form the subject of many dramas and other theatrical plays. His grave — distinguished by a small shelter and much burning incense — * attracts thousands of the commonalty and not a few contributions to the temple exchequer. (The priests are not overmuch proud of the dubious distinction which Kozo's memory has associated with the temple.) The headstone has to be replaced many times each year, as the credulous believe that if a bit of it is surreptitiously carried away it will act as a golden talisman in speculative enterprises. When the belief proves true, the sly kleptomaniac usually fulfills his secret vow and replaces the mutilated stone with a new one. The enterprising wight with the small stock of headstones near by makes his living by keeping these handy and carving the names of lucky investors on them, then setting them up. Students are confident of success in their examinations if they can carry a chip from the stone in their kimono sleeve during the ordeal. When the course of true love runs unevenly, lovers come hither to spill their smothered grief, and to implore the shade of Kozo to bind up their wounds. The bamboo vases have been filled with fresh flowers every day for nearly a century, and fresh incense has been offered just as frequently. The big amphitheater which overshadows the campo aanio is where wrestling-matches (p. clxvii) are held.

Tsukiji ('filled-in ground'), the one-time Foreign Concession (like The Settlement at Yokohama) where foreigners formerly were obliged to live, and the approaches to which were guarded by sentries, occupies a strip of land facing the Bay at the southern edge of the metropolis (PI. E-F, 7), and is of considerable interest to foreigners. It is the favorite dwelling- place of numerous foreign religionists, whose houses, clubs, churches and other edifices give it the appearance of a clean, tranquil suburb of some Western city. A number of schools and deserving establishments for the moral and intellectual advancement of the people of the Empire are maintained by the mission and other workers who dwell here and in various parts of the capital; and from Tokyo in general, and Tsukiji in particular, there radiates an uplifting influence that is felt afar. One of the most conspicuous institutions, international in scope and renown, and known far and wide for its splendid achievements is

St. Luke's International Hospital, itself the nucleus of a great Medical Center now in course of construction, and which, when completed, will cost upward of 6 million yen. It will occupy the site of the famous old (efficient but inadequate) hospital of the same name, which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1923. The work accomplished by the old institution was so excellent, and so appreciated by the Japanese, that in

Naval Museum.

1923, when its enlargement was under discussion, and the new hospital proposed, the late Emperor at once gave 50,000 yen out of his personal fortune. This was followed by other contributions by Japanese notables that brought the initial amount to 150,000 ijen. The remainder of the money needed was raised in the United States, under the auspices of the Protestant Episcopal Church (founders and organizers of the older institution).

Ground was broken for the new hospital Feb. 11, 1928, the date of the founding of the parent institution (as well as one of the most important Imperial Festivals, the Kigensetsu, or the accession of the first Emperor in 660 b.c.). The shovel used in the formal ground-breaking ceremonies was a part of a complete field hospital presented by General John J. Pershing.

The new hospital contains beds for 250 patients; a modern school for the training of 150 young women nurses; organizations for public health work, with the aim of disseminating education relating to health measures; the investigation and relief of unhygienic conditions in industrial and social centers; the training of mothers and families, and a general movement along modern lines for the prevention and cure of disease. The head of the medical institution is Dr. R. B. Teusler. The managing director and head of the organization is the Rt. Rev. Bishop John McKim, D.D., known to, and revered by practically every foreigner in the Far East (as well as by millions of Japanese).

Tokyo might be said to be general headquarters of the Christian Movement in Japan. Here the largest cathedrals, churches, missions and much of the best proselyting talent are to be found; here the most important conferences, commissions, and other ecclesiastical councils meet and plan their campaigns; while from the metropolitan dioceses go synodals to all parts of the Empire. To this greatest intellectual center of the Far East come delegates from all parts of the world to aid in the advance of Christian progress and unity. It is the center from which Christian literature is sent to all the missionary outposts, and, incidentally, upon which the Buddhist bonzes and Shinto priests throughout the realm focus their apprehensive eyes and thoughts.

The fine Mineral Museum which formerly stood in Tsukiji, and which, in a smaller way, had a collection of mineralogicd specimens almost as beautiful as that in the South Kensington Museum, was destroyed by the great earthquake of 1923 and much of the contents ruined. The less interesting

Naval Museum, and the Commercial Museum shared the same fate. It is the intention of the authorities later to rehabilitate these organizations.

The Kabuki-za, one of Tokyo's finest and most attractive theaters (referred to in detail in another place in the guidebook), is in Tsukiji, as are also various other semi-public institutions. The first type foundry established in Japan was the old Tsukiji Type Foundry.

There are several American Churches in the immediate environs. For a list of them consult the local directory.

Tokyo Bay.

The Nishi (Western) Hongwanji, known locally as the Tsukiji Monseki, a big temple (branch of the Higashi Hongwanji described at p. 214) faces Tsukiji Sanchome (PI. E, 7), 5 min. walk from the Seiyoken Hotel, in a large compound with many lanterns, etc. The massive sweeping roof and the magnificent proportions of the structure are impressive; the interior differs but little from the sister edifice in Asakusa. The big wheeled cannon and the other war relics in the yard are from China and Russia. The present temple dates from 1872, and stands on the site of a former structure destroyed by fire in 1869. The image of Amida, at the main altar, is ascribed to Shotoku-taishi.

Tokyo Bay (wan) flanks the metropolis on the S. and is 40 M. long. Maps of the l2th cent, show that the water then extended to Uyeno Park and included Asakusa, while those of the 16th cent, show that Fukagawa and Hon jo Wards were both submerged. When the Americans first anchored in the shallow waters of Yedo Bay it was a favorite breeding-ground for whales. After these were driven off it became a popular dwelling-place for clams, which are now gathered at certain seasons by a host of men, women, and children — an occupation known as Shiohi-gari. Dredging operations are in progress, and the foreshore being constantly reclaimed is to serve as the foundation for harbor works to cost 20 million yen.

The Environs of Tokyo are tawdry and of little interest to the hurried traveler. The few pretty spots are pretty only when idealized by floral displays in season, and even then they call for no special description. Takao-zan, and the Tamagawa are mentioned in Rte. 25. Meguro, in Shiba-ku (PI. A, 6), a pleasant suburban village with a Race-Course ( Keibajo ) and an Aviation Field, is known for a temple dedicated to Fudd; for its peony gardens; its autumnal display of maples; and for chestnuts and bamboo-shoots — which with the plum blossoms herald the approaching spring and attract excursionists. The race-meetings are advertised beforehand in the local newspapers (in English), The station of the Belt Line Rly. is about i M. N.E. of the village. At the street level we turn first to the right, then bear to the left to the hill called Gyonin-zaka. Instead of following the broad road which leads to the right, we now descend into the valley lying beyond. Midway of the slope, at the left, in a clean little yard, is a small Buddhist temple with an interior crowded with tall statues of Amida and his retinue, backed by high gilded mandorlas. Note the bronze Buddha in the yard, and the wistful little sculptured stone statuettes of his disciples which ring the main figure and extend along the flank of the hill, beneath the trees. The iris garden behind the hedge on the opposite side of the road is very pretty in June. AboutM. farther down the road, at the left edgeof the Village, at the base of the hill, on a com-