横浜から川崎・蒲田（池上）・大森を経て東京へ

9. From Yokohama via Kawasaki, Kamata (Ikegami), and Omori, to Tokyo.

Imperial Government Railway.

18 M. Frequent trains in 30–50 min. Fare, ¥1.35, 1st cl.; 2d cl., 90 sen. Tickets must be shown at the wicket before one can pass to the platform. Electric trains leave from and arrive at Sakuragicho Station; steam trains, Yokohama Station (about 1 M. N.W. of the former).

Beyond 2 M. Higashi-Kanagawa the line traverses a flat country, where much of the garden truck sold in the city markets is raised. Beautiful views of the sea at the right, and of Fuji and distant mts. at the left. Many of the thatched roofs of the native dwellings have waving sweet-flags (shobu) growing along the ridge poles.—3½ M. Tsurumi. The fine big Sojiji Temple (headquarters of the Sodo sect), on the terrace overlooking the station at the left, was removed hither in 1911 from Noto Province and reconstructed on a grand scale. The views from the atrium are fine. The splendid interior of the main temple is finished in keyaki-wood stained a rich mahogany tint, with numerous skillful carvings, in the natural wood, of phoenixes, turtles, wave-patterns, and the usual Buddhist motives (p. clxxii). The sumptuous altar, with a superb gilt figure of Amida (p. ccii), is finished in black lacquer and gold. The crest so much in evidence is the Paulownia imperialis (p. cliv).

8 M. Kawasaki. The big power-plant at the left of the track furnishes some of the electrical energy used by the rly. About 2 M. to the right of the station (frequent tram-cars) is the locally celebrated Kawasaki Daishi, a huge Buddhist temple (of the Shingon sect), founded in 1131 but repeatedly reconstructed. The present somewhat tawdry, weather-beaten edifice dates from 1842, is dedicated to Kobo-Daishi, and is picturesquely situated in a pretty garden with numerous flowering plum and cherry trees, a quaint pond, some handsome cranes, and a small menagerie. The big gateway dates from 1897. The gigantic Nio (p. ccvii) which guard it are inferior to others which the traveler may see in Tokyo or Kyoto. Both the gateway and the facade of the main building carry some tolerably good wood-carvings of phoenixes, turtles, etc. The sculptures and vari-colored tennin (p. clxxvii) on the interior panels are attributed to some artist of the Kano school. The most prized object in the reliquary, a carved wood figurine of Kobo-Daishi, is said to have been fashioned by the great scholar himself, sometime in the 9th cent. The handsome bronze statue crowning the summit of a rockery in the yard is of the Goddess Kwannon. Turtle-venders sometimes take their stand near the temple entrance and ask the charitably disposed to ransom their stock in trade and set them at liberty. Bucketfuls of turtles, ranging in price from 10 to 50 sen,

and in size from a watch to a plate, are often suspended from strings or placed on the top of bamboo posts, where they claw the air despairingly in their frantic efforts to escape. Odd features of the host of shops in the neighborhood are dumpy, red and black figures of Daruma (p. cxcix), from the size of an egg to that of a pumpkin, with blank white eyes which petitioners paint in, after some cherished wish has been granted by the temple divinity; they are fashioned on the roly-poly principle, and always regain their equilibrium. At some of the tiny shops, clams, seaweed, and various conchylia are packed in small nets which pilgrims carry home with them. The district through which the tram-cars run is pretty in early spring when the deep pink of peach, the lighter tones of cherry, and the rich, creamy white of pear blossoms add charm. There are many pear orchards, and the trees are trained over low, roofed trellises so that the fruit may be gathered easily.

The rly. crosses the Tamagawa on a long bridge and traverses flat paddy-fields to 9½ M. Kamata, where the Flower Gardens (iris, peonies, etc.) of the Yokohama Nursery Co. (see p. 8) attract many sight-seers from Yokohama and Tokyo at special seasons (advertisements in the newspapers). The traveler fond of picturesque old Buddhist temples can make a delightful detour by descending from the train here, walking 1½ M. N.W. to Ikegami, and rejoining the line at Omori station.

The Hommonji, a nationally celebrated temple founded by Nichiren (p. cci) in 1280; one of the most important religious structures of the Hokka sect, in Japan, and one of the most picturesque and typical that the traveler will see, stands, with its numerous annexes, on the broad summit of a low hill overlooking the pretty town of Ikegami—so-called from Ikegami Munenaka, whose name is associated with the construction of the primitive building. The approach is flanked by attractive shops, and, in season, by flower displays of considerable variety. Ninety-six granite steps lead up to the broad, beautifully shaded terrace, where stands the colossal red gateway guarded by the two Deva Kings. The Main Temple, or Soshi-do, rises amid lofty trees beside the equally impressive Shaka-do, or Hall of Buddha—both excellent reproductions of early Buddhistic architecture, and both dating from 1902. The interior of the former is a blaze of gold and rich lacquer supplemented by the customary polychromatic carvings of dragons, angels of the Buddhist paradise, etc., and noteworthy for 70 handsome sutra-boxes of a rich red lacquer. The massive supporting columns are magnificent specimens of the close-grained keyaki, finished in the natural color and polished by contact with the hands of devotees. The chief object of veneration is a sculptured and seated wood figure, on the high altar, of the sainted Nichiren, ascribed to his pupil Nichiro, and protected by an elaborately embroidered silken kinran which the priest in charge will raise for a small fee. The most conspicuous idol in the Shaka-do, which is connected with the main building by a picturesque bridge, is a well-carved Buddha backed by a fine gilded mandorla. The handsome new altar at the left, dedicated to Shaka, is adorned with sculptured figurines of Monju, Fugen, and other divinities. The large kakemono at the right portrays the death of Buddha. That at the left, silk embroidered, shows Nichiren on his deathbed. The 12 tolerably well-carved statuettes in the fine black lacquered reliquary are erroneously attributed to Unkei (p. ccxli). The huge Revolving Library at the rear of the building is said to contain the complete Buddhist scriptures. At the rear of the extensive apartments of the priests is a sunken landscape garden worth seeing.—By descending the flight of steps (many leprous and repulsive beggars) at the rear of the Library, one reaches the sacrosanct Kotsu-do,

Foldout map between pages 108 and 109

a dagoba surmounting an immense stone lotus and containing a bizarre reliquarium (also lotus-shaped and resting upon 8 green tortoises) enshrining a much bewrapped, greatly revered tooth said to have belonged to Nichiren. The host of carefully tied little packages contain offerings to the shrine. A few hundred feet below this, beyond the double gateway, is the Daibo, a much venerated structure on the site of the spot where Nichiren died. Within is a pillar swathed in silk brocade against which he leaned before his death; a bit of hard wood which served as his pillow; and a tiny wood figure purporting to be Nichiren and to have been carved by him the day before he died. His tomb is among many others in the grove up at the right of the Daibo.

The five-storied Pagoda stands alone in a fine grove not far from the main temple. The path leading past it goes to the Ikegami Onsen, with a tea-house and a pretty landscape garden filled with flowering trees, terraces, rockeries and flowers. By following the picturesque main road at the left one soon comes to (1 M.) Omori Station.

Because of its many advantages as a suburb, not a few Tokyo merchants live in Omori, which is favorably known to foreigners for its excellent Omori Hotel.*

* Omori Hotel, a quiet, unpretentious, well-conducted, moderate-priced hotel (4 min. walk from the Omori Station), managed by Mr. Sadao Inohara, favorably known to many travelers for his long connection with the Imperial Gov't Railway Hotel at Nara, the Keijo Hotel at Seoul (Korea, Chosen), and with other popular hotels catering to foreign taste and travelers. Prompt service; good home cooking; modern conveniences. English spoken. Telephone. For rates and other information, address S. Inohara, Proprietor Omori Hotel, Omori, Tokyo.

The plum blossoms of Omori locality attract many visitors in late Feb. Relics of the early autochthons have been dug up in the neighborhood.

The traveler with ample time may like to visit the near-by (tram-car, ½ hr.) Haneda, a popular resort of the Tokyoites, near the sea, with a locally famed shrine to Inari. The chief festivals are in March and Sept., but at all times during the summer throngs of holiday folks swarm over the place (a sort of local Coney Is.) and render it attractive. The scores of small restaurants specialize in sea-food, and the shops sell marine zoology in many forms.

From Omori the train parallels the sea to (15 M.) Shinagawa, an important junction on the outskirts of Tokyo. The traveler planning to visit the Tombs of the 47 Ronin (p. 186) and Shiba Park (p. 168) can save a little time by descending from the train here and visiting them in the order named. 18 M. Tokyo, see below.