横浜から東京を経て軽井沢・長野・直江津・新潟（佐渡島）へ

6. From Yokohama via Tokyo to Karuizawa, Nagano, Naoetsu, and Niigata (Sado Island).

Shin-etsu Line of the Imperial Government Railways.

To Karuizawa, 105 M. (84 from Tokyo); to Nagano, 153 M.; to Niigata, 284 M. Several excellent trains daily. For fares, time and other information consult the Time Table of the Imperial Gov't Rlys.

The scenery in the mountainous districts is magnificent and is similar to that on the Central Line, Rte. 25. The rly. traverses the provinces of Sagami, Musashi, Shimosa, and Kotsuke, and after crossing the wild and splendid upland province of Shinano, runs along the coast of the Japan Sea through the rich, remote, and rugged Echigo (called the province of Snow) with its little known and little traveled routes. On the Karuizawa highlands the rly. skirts the base of Asama-yama, Japan's most active and vicious volcano, and affords inspiring views of its smoking cone.

Sado Island is but a brief sail from Niigata, whence one may also cross to Koriyama on the Main Line to Aomori (Rte. 18), and either proceed N. from there or return S. over a different route. At Naoetsu connections can be made with the W. Coast Route to Kyoto and points thereabout; and at Shiojiri with trains over the magnificently scenic Central Line to Nagoya. The entire region is interesting. At a point between Karuizawa and Miyoda stations a mountain pass 3234 ft. is crossed, the 2d highest point reached by a Japanese rly. The 26 tunnels of the Usui Pass are known throughout Japan for their picturesqueness.

The rly. from Yokohama to Tokyo is described at p. 107. Thence to Takasaki trains run over the Takasaki section of the North-Eastern Line (of the Imperial Gov't Rlys.) through a level country delimited at the S. by Fuji-san and the lofty mts. of Kai Province; and at the N. by the fine Nikko Range. 16 M. Omiya Jct. is the station where travelers bound to Nikko and the N. change cars; there is a refreshment room on the platform where bento, sandwiches, hot milk, and pots of tea are sold at reasonable prices. 33 M. Fukiage is the starting-point for (3 1/2 M.) Yoshimi-mura, which has some curious artificial caves, cut out of the friable sandstone of a hill-slope and thought by some to have served as the homes of an ancient people known to the Japanese as Tsuchigumo, or 'earth-spiders.' From (48 M.) Kumagaya, trains of the Jobu Rly. Co.'s line branch off to the left and run S. to (14 M.) Hakure.

Archaeologists will find considerable to interest them in this section of Japan, which no doubt was a populous Ainu stronghold in prehistoric times.

Features of the region are the tree-hedges, 15-20 ft. high, which surround many of the houses. The clean-looking country with its thick groves of slim pine trees, recalls certain parts of New England. 44 M. Fukaya has a number of silk- and cotton-mills. The observant traveler will note that the tile- and pottery-kilns here and farther along the rly. are always built on the slope of a hillock, a nest of 6 or more ovens being strung slantwise under a single sloping roof in order to economize heat and produce a draft. On a clear day Asama-yama may be seen smoking furiously on the horizon (right). The mt. range farther to the right is that of Haruna*

Myogi-san,

TAKASAKI

62 M. Takasaki (406 ft.; pop. 40,000) in Gumma Prefecture, Kotsuke Province, contains a number of silk-mills and a big bakery that supplies the surrounding country with loaf bread. Inn: Takasaki-kwan, opposite the station; ¥2 and upward.

The short rly. (Ryomo Line) which runs hence (E.) to 57 M. Oyama (fare, ¥2.33, 1st cl.; ¥1.40, 2d cl.; frequent trains), a jct. on the N.E. Line (Rte. 17), forms the shortest route to Nikko, etc., for travelers approaching Takasaki from the W. Most of the wayside towns are unimportant. 7 M. Maebashi (Inn: Shiroiya, ¥2; Toyokan Hotel, ¥4), with 40,000 inhabs., is the capital of Kotsuke Province and Gumma Prefecture, and is one of the most important silk-markets in the country. The Kiryu Fabric School is of interest to those concerned with sericulture. A tramway runs from a point near the station to (10 M.) Shibukawa, where connections are made with the line ascending to Ikao (p. 87). The rly. which goes toward the S.W. runs to 21 M. Shimonita, with an iron mine.

From Takasaki the rly. climbs at once into the hills, crossing first the Karasu-gawa, then the Shimo Usui-gawa, both of which have necessitated costly riparian work to confine them to their rocky beds. The narrow valley here is picturesque, and the houses have their roofs held down by a multiplicity of stones. The ventilating holes under the ridge-poles indicate that the peaked lofts are breeding-places for silk-worms. Pollarded mulberry trees, the leaves of which the worms live on, are conspicuous features in the landscape. 73 M. Isobe, a poor town, has mineral springs which attract the ailing. The bizarre mt. peaks visible on the S. (left) skyline constitute a part of Myogi-san, the starting-point for which is usually 77 M. Matsuida (Inn: Hishiya, ¥2), a station near the Kami Usui River.

The group of jagged, spire-like peaks are known collectively as Myogi-san, and were perhaps named for a celebrated abbot of the Hiei-zan Monastery (Kyoto), who came hither in the 10th cent, and was deified under the title of Myogi Dai Gongen. Individually they are called Hakuun (' White Clouds '), Kindo ('Golden Cave'), and Kinkei ('Golden Pheasants'). Originally the ribs of an ancient volcano, they have been corroded by time and the elements into curious shapes, now covered to their highest point (about 3800 ft.) with green vegetation. On the side of the first-named, a short walk up from the village nestling on its flank (2 1/2 M. from Matsuida; jinriki, 75 sen the round trip), embowered in a grove of noble cryptomerias, is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Yamato Takeru no Mikoto (see p. 68), 3d son of the Emperor Keiko. The natural stone arches accessible by means of iron cables, the picturesque environs; and the fine autumnal tints attract many Tokyo people.

From Matsuida the rly. follows the right bank of the river and approaches a highly interesting portion of the line. The flanking highway is practicable for motor-cars. Many of the bridges have brick instead of granite abutments. Beyond 80 M. Yokogawa (1364 ft.) the line begins its stiff climb over the Usui-toge, a difficult stretch of road but 7 M. long, but which required 2 yrs. to complete. The work necessitated engineering skill of no ordinary kind; rocky mts. had to be cut away, ravines filled up, steep gradients introduced on reverse curves, and 26 brick-lined tunnels with an aggregate length of 14,644

KARUIZAWA

Asama-yama.

ft. cut upward through the pass. The riskiest of the 18 bridges (which have an aggregate length of 1471 ft.) spans the Usui-gawa between the 5th and 6th tunnels; it has 4 spans of 60 ft. each, and is supported on brick arches (2,200,000 bricks) that rise 110 ft. above the river-bed. Until quite recently the Abt system (cog-wheels working in grooved rails) was employed, but electric traction engines (German; 3d rail system; direct current) have been introduced. The power-house on this side of the pass stands on a low terrace near the river edge, above the Yokogawa Station; an auxiliary station stands just beyond the pass, near the Yagasaki Block Station. The fleeting glimpses that one gets of the raging river as it tears through the gorge far below are fine. In some places the gradient is 1 in 15; No. 6 is the longest (1791 ft.) of the tunnels. No. 26 is 1419 ft. long.

On emerging from the Usui tunnels the train passes out of Kotsuke Province, and over the threshold from the lowlands of the Kwanto to the highlands of Shinano; from the mild and fertile region in which the Tokugawa shoguns acquired their strength and built the Empire, to the rough, cold, mountainous interior, so little known to foreigners, yet so worthy of being known. Japanese familiar with the history of their country associate the Usui Pass with Yamato Takeru ('warrior prince') or Yamatotakeru no mikoto, a famous hero and military genius of the olden times (a.d. 81-113). At the age of 16 he was ordered to suppress a rebellion in Kyushu, which he did by disguising himself as a woman and entering the apartment of the chief of the rebels and slaying him. His several campaigns led him as far N. as Mutsu Province, where he repeatedly fought the Ainu. He died at 32, but lives in the hearts of the people as the conqueror of the Kwanto, that vast region E. of the Hakone Pass; between Tokyo and Nikko; and between Usui-toge and the Pacific Ocean. This district is often referred to as Azuma-kuni ('Country of my wife'), a designation referring to the lament of Yamato Takeru over the loss of his beloved wife Tachibana-hime, who, on the passage across Yedo Bay, flung herself overboard in order to mollify Kompira (Neptune) and to secure for her husband a prosperous landing on the Kazusa-Awa Peninsula. — For a continuation of the journey beyond Karuizawa see p. 76.

87 M. (from Tokyo) Karuizawa (3180 ft.), a small, scattered town (see the map opposite p. 87) just over the border in Shinano Province (Nagano Prefecture), one of the most popular of the Japanese hill-stations, is noted for its fine, cool, healthful air; its many wild flowers, splendid views, and its proximity to the ever-grouchy Asama-yama, Japan's busiest volcano. It is the favorite summer meeting-place for Protestant missionaries, who between July and Sept. fore-

Hotels.

KARUIZAWA

gather here in considerable numbers to recuperate, discuss church and mission matters, and enjoy the splendid walks which the environs afford. The air of the plain on which Karuizawa stands is a delightful tonic to the residents of the heat-smitten coast; and about July 15, soon after schools close for the summer vacation, and holidays are in order, the place begins to fill and the hotels to be crowded. The flowering season is about 30 days later than that of Tokyo, and the azaleas, the wistaria, and other flowers which bloom in Tokyo and Yokohama in early May do not appear on the highlands here until early June. To many this is by far the loveliest season — and the most satisfactory. The hotels are then practically empty, winter rates (lower than in summer) prevail, and the individual receives more attention than is possible during the busy times. The display of azaleas, when vast reaches of the hillsides are practically covered with the pink blooms, is unexcelled in any part of Japan. No less beautiful is the manner in which the wild wistaria decorates the ravines and hangs in exquisite festoons from the trees. The drawbacks are the frequent rains, the dense fogs which prevail in spring, the mosquitoes (the hotels furnish nets), and the sandflies ( buyu, or buto ) whose bite is as irritating as that of the mosquito. The summer nights are cool; the winter climate is cold, with frequent deep snows. Most of the flimsy, primitive cottages built of logs with the bark on, and owned by foreigners, are closed in winter, as the occupants usually take their leave in Sept.

Arrival. As Karuizawa is essentially a summer colony more activity is manifest at that season. Before undertaking winter trips thither, confer with the Japan Tourist Bureau regarding hotels, etc. Autos are usually available, at moderate rates. By telephoning or writing ahead one can be sure that the hotel car will be at the station. The town is about 5 min. ride (15 min. walk) from the station. The stone tablet in the station yard commemorates the completion of the Usui-toge tunnels, and the advent of the rly.

Hotels. The * Mampei Hotel (under the same management as the Mampei at Atami) is in the town; the * Misaka Hotel stands at the head of a ravine 10 min. walk, beyond. Both are modern, comfortable, and are conducted in foreign style. Good food and service. Single room only, from 6 yen and up; American Plan, from 12 yen. Double rooms with bath from 15 to 28 yen. Members of the Japan Hotel Association, from whom, or from the Japan Tourist Bureau, the traveler can get full information, arrange for accommodations, etc.

The Drinking Water should be boiled before taking. See the reference to the Tansan Mineral Water at p. 629.

The local specialty ( tokubetsu ) is a palatable jam (Asama- budo) made from grapes grown in the neighborhood.

[ KARUIZAWA • Kose Hot Spring.

Walks and Excursions in the neighborhood are numerous, and many miles of footpaths lead up and around the mountain sides. While weeks can be spent exploring them the traveler will soon note that a certain sameness characterizes most of the views. None of the trips offer the diversity of sensation (nor the danger) experienced on the climb to the top of Asama- yama, nor the varied charm of the walk to Kose and return along the ridge to Hanare-yama. The lover of beautiful landscapes rich with foliage and wild flowers will want to repeat this walk again and again, as the pleasure of studying the untrustworthy Asama from a safe distance grows on one. The varied plant life is a sustained delight. Many of the minor walks described in the local guidebook are for those who linger at Karuizawa and find time hanging heavily.

Automobiles are usually available, at moderate prices, to carry the traveler about the country. A railway links Karuizawa with Kusatsu (mentioned at p. 75) and is useful to the traveler who would rather ride than walk. Horses can always be had, and there are many delightful rides possible in the vicinity.

As a general rule one will get more out of a leisurely hike (or horseback ride) than out of a speeding car. It will also be found more economical. It is well to remember that time can be saved with the assistance of a guide (necessary in some places), and that the lads who loiter about the hotels often make as good guides as the old heads, besides being cheaper.

Travelers are cautioned against approaching too close to the crater of Asama-yama, as it is treacherous, and sometimes gives no warning when it is going to erupt. Accidents are not unknown. A local guide is advisable.

To Kose Hot Spring (1 1/2 M.). A good walker familiar with the road can do the outward trip in 3/4 hr., but it will be pleasanter if a leisurely morning can be devoted to it and the return made over the route indicated below. The road leads (left) behind the Karuizawa Hotel, bears right, and passes up the rocky river-bed beside the Mikasa Hotel. In June a host of odorless azaleas flame amid the green grass and young pines of the hillsides and idealize the beautiful landscape. A quaint bell in a belfry stands on the hill opposite the Mikasa, in the yard of which are some fine double cherry blooms. The clear, cool, garrulous little brook that whimpers down through the gorge here is deceptive, for when the spring rains give it size and power it is apt to tear giant trees out of the hills and dash them helter-skelter over the lowlands. The views from the road as it zigzags up the pass are beguiling. Hereabout the beautiful wild purple wistaria grows in riotous profusion, along with fragrant honeysuckle and a host of other wild flowers. At the crest of the hill one follows the road leading

Flowers.

KARUIZAWA

to the left, in a line with Asama-yama. Many hills and ridges stretch away in crumpled folds at the right, while numerous big ferns and a species of lily with edible bulbs deck the slopes at the left. Along the outer edge of the pine grove (right) a myriad dainty, fragrant, lilies-of-the- valley grow wild; the deep woods are flecked here and there with flowering trees, and from their cool depths comes the incessant, flute-like call of the cuckoo. When the wind is in the right direction one begins soon to note a sullen, reverberating roar like that made by a heavy rly. train crossing a bridge; but which emanates from the restless Asama-yama, and grows momentarily louder as one descends the slope toward the base of the unruly monster. The path leads down a gentle declivity under overhanging foliage, alongside a veritable wild garden of Solomon's- seal, Jack-in-the-pulpit, violets, buttercups, purple asters, azaleas, and a charming, snow-white flower produced by a species of wild pear ( konashi ). At the foot of the descent, instead of crossing the stream one turns up right to the small cluster of houses bordering a warm brook — the remains of Kose, which was almost annihilated by the great floods of 1910. Many lukewarm springs trickle down from the hillside, past the primitive bath-houses where the natives bathe 'in the buff' before emerging for the customary sun-bath. Children like the place for its 'paddling' possibilities.

Returning through the woods-road to the clearing, we bear to the right and ascend the hill over the path directly across the open from that followed on the descent. Some fine mountain cherry trees ( yama-zakura ) put forth a host of whitish- pink blossoms hereabout in early spring. Far beyond the tumbled range of hills visible at the left from near the crest of the ridge lies Kusatsu. The thunderous roaring of Asama- yama is heard distinctly here — an ominous note in the sweet, undefiled country-side where a myriad insects hum, birds sing, and flowers bloom joyously. At the summit of the ridge the path winds to the right and affords glorious and far- reaching views at the right and left. Microscopic towns, roads, and streams are seen at the far left, and beyond them apparently interminable mt. ranges which fade into distant blue peaks. At the right is a vast depression, the far side of which is formed by a shoulder of the angry Asama. A peculiar fascination attracts one to this loftiest of all the Japanese volcanoes, and as one lies shoulder deep in the wild flowers which deck the hill and watches the smoke curl upward from the cone opposite — the while hearkening to the furious growling within — one is brought to a fine realization of the transcendental powers of Nature and the impotency of man when he essays to cope with them.

The first section of the ridge-path is through a wooded section idealized by many flowers; the tall spires of Myogi-san,

KARUIZAWA

Usui Pass.

at the far left, are strikingly like those of the Organ Mts. near Las Cruces, New Mexico, U.S.A. The snow-streaked giants at the far right of the Gothic-like pinnacles are the mts. of Shinano Province. Many day-lilies beautify this stretch of road in summer, and entomologists will find here an unusual assemblage of butterflies. The towering green side of Hanare-yama soon comes within view, and then Kutsukake is seen nestling at its base (right). [If time permits, one can diverge here to the right, follow the well-traveled road between Karuizawa and Kutsukake, and after quitting the latter village, return through Hanare-yama-machi and inspect the monuments referred to below.] Karuizawa is visible at the (1 M.) left. — Should the traveler elect to return from Kose over the road taken on the outward trip, a side-trip can be made to a pretty cascade, about 1/2 hr. up a sheltered valley at the right of the Mikasa Hotel. The lovely clematis-like flower so much in evidence in the tall trees is that of the spindle- tree — one of the dogwoods (mayumi).

The Bronze Monuments (45 min. walk) on the slope of Hanare-yama, immediately beyond Hanare village, are reached by following the Nakasendo to the latter place, and to a group of houses in a walled compound just beyond; then

pass through the yard and follow the path (no fees) up the hill (5 min.) to the terrace. The statues stand on artificial pedestals of volcanic rock surmounted by gray granite plinths, whence one commands a broad view over the valley to the distant mts. The figures are those of a rich merchant and his wife, the ancestors of the present dwellers of the houses below; the man holds a fan in his hand, and looks self-complacent; the kneeling woman looks sorrowful. Both commemorate the pride of a man who became rich because of his ability to hoard his wealth.

Unless time hangs heavily, and one is fond of climbing, the ascent of Hanare-yama (about 1 1/2 hr.) will scarcely repay the effort; the hill, which is covered with grass to its rounded summit, with no trees to afford shade, is steeper than it looks from below, and the ascent, particularly in the hot sun, is arduous. An equally attractive view can be had with a smaller outlay of energy from the ridge followed on the return from Kose. The remarks are applicable also to Atago-yama a rounded hill just back of the town, and notable for the outcropping of curious columnar rocks on its side. The ascent takes about 1/2 hr.; the shrine near the top is of no interest. The Usui Pass (2 M.) about 780 ft. above the plain, is

reached by continuing to the top of the main st., crossing the bridge over a mt. torrent, then following the road that zigzags up the hill. Forenoon is the best time, as fierce thunderstorms sometimes break quickly over the pass in the afternoons of spring and summer days. The stone monument on

Yagasaki-yama.

ASAMA-YAMA

the near side (left) of the bridge was erected (by the villagers) in 1903 to the memory of the Venerable Archdeacon A. C. Shaw, one of the first missionaries to bring Karuizawa into prominence as a summer resort. The curious, tripleheaded stone image in the glade at the left of the bridge, on the far side of the stream, resembles the Trimurti of Hindu mythology. The grayish-white ejecta of pumice-stone everywhere visible beneath the thin layer of soil points to the great activity of Asama in times past. The view from the top of the pass, on which stands the omnipresent tea-house, is far- reaching and attractive. A slightly better view may be had from a point farther along at the left; from here one sees the castellated peaks of Myogi-san, the smoking Asama, Shirane-san, the bulky Haruna Mts., and scores of lesser peaks and ridges. A yet wider panorama spreads below a point known as Fujimi-zaka (called also the Hog's Back) about 2 M. N. of Usui-toge (follow the path beyond the temple and bear steadily to the right). On a clear day the impeccable Fuji-san is visible on the S. skyline. A number of plain trails radiate from the hilltop. By locating Karuizawa one may vary the descent without straying far afield.

Yagasaki-yama, or Prospect Point, a short distance S. of the rly. track, is known for the beautiful views possible from it. An entire morning should be given to the trip, as it is a stiffish climb of about 1 hr. from Yagasaki village to the crest. The return may be varied by following the path leading toward Kamado-iwa, a picturesque spot called Pulpit Rock.

Iriyama Pass can be included in the above trip by walking to Sakai and following the trail leading due E. The views over the valley stretching between the foot of the pass and Asama; and toward Myogi-san, are pleasing. A popular 2-day trip is to (9-12 M.) Kozu Farm, beyond the Wami-toge. The usual custom is to make the outward trip the first day, spend the night at the farmstead (excellent cream, buttermilk, strawberries, etc.), and return the following day.

The Ascent of Asama-yama (8260 ft.; 4330 ft. higher than Vesuvius), the largest, angriest, most accessible and treacherous volcano on the main island of Japan, is a simple matter, but the dangers at the summit are manifold and should not be regarded lightly. The symmetrical cone rises like a gigantic ulcer to a height of 5080 ft. above the Karuizawa plain, which it shakes to its center (but does no material damage), and covers with ashes whenever it is in one of its irritable moods. One might almost be justified in believing that it bears a special grudge against mt. climbers, for no sooner does a number of these assemble at the top than the baleful monster spouts out thousands of tons of hot rocks that kill some and maim others. Until recently it was the custom to 'close' the

ASAMA-YAMA The Lava Stream,

mt. in winter and 'open' it to climbers the first week in May. In 1911, on the day after the official 'opening' while a throng of silent pilgrims were gazing into the fearsome vent, a furious explosion (one of the first for a long time), followed by a tremendous outburst, occurred, and numbers of the unfortunates were killed or wounded. A similar outbreak with lamentable results came in Aug., 1912, at the moment when a party of Karuizawa residents were at the summit. Prior to May 26, 1908, when a violent and unexpected eruption marked a new period of activity for the volcano, it had remained comparatively quiescent for 125 yrs. The eruptions are now frequent and formidable; the earth tremors are sometimes felt in Tokyo and Yokohama, and the region roundabout the mt. is frequently strewn with ashes. During the vicious manifestation of Dec. 16, 1912, masses of lava and incandescent rocks streamed and rolled down the mt. sides, dense clouds of black smoke hung over the surrounding country, and violent explosions shook it. The configuration of the crater has been changed materially by these tremendous outbursts, the most violent of which (as Dr, Omori, of the Tokyo Imperial University, points out) occur in May and Dec., when decided climatic changes take place. The fearsome eruption of 1783 lasted 88 days and spread terror and devastation for miles around. The scoriaceous lava-stream destroyed a celebrated primeval forest near by, along with 48 villages, thousands of people, and an unlisted number of domestic animals. Many of the survivors died later from starvation, as the rain of stones and ashes covered the ground to a depth of several feet for miles around, destroying and burying all the vegetation. The neighborhood of the Nakasendo, between Oiwake * and the Usui Pass, previously fertile and productive land, was turned into a blistering wilderness. Glowing masses of incandescent rock were hurled out of the crater in all directions, and the dense shower of ashes turned day into night. The stream of lava flowed N. to the bed of the Agatsuma-gawa, then turned to the E. Portions of this vast field, whose grayish-black masses of rock are mingled in wild confusion, are yet visible from Asama's summit, and in certain of its characteristics it bears a striking resemblance to the celebrated Pedregal, in the Valley of Mexico, near the town of Coyoacan. The contrast between the bleak lava and the luxuriant forest vegetation is remarkable; the one emblematic of death, destruction and the unthinkable and blighting forces of Nature; the other vigorous with life, vocal with happy birds and insects, and redolent of gay flowers. The huge lichen-covered blocks bear some resemblance to sea waves petrified and stilled in their headlong course. This Lava Stream ( Oshidashi-gawara) forms a favorite excursion from Karuizawa; the better part of a day should be devoted to it, and a boy

Kusatsu.

ASAMA-YAMA

should be taken from the hotel to act as guide and carry the lunch-basket. Ladies will find the walk tiresome.

The most popular route up Asama is via the Wakasare-no-chaya a tea-house on the Kusatsu road reached by way of Kutsukake. The last 2 hrs. to the summit must be made on foot. A day and a local guide are needed for the round trip. The lower slopes of the mt. are covered with the small grapes from which the local jam is made; higher up are inclined seas of sand, pumice, volcanic stones, and clinkers; the grade is not as steep as that on Fuji, and there are no dizzy precipices to cross. The wide, dome-shaped summit is covered with recently ejected stones, many of them warm to the touch; a rain of almost impalpable ash often descends gently and steadily. The crater is about 1/2 M. in diameter and 600 or more ft. deep. The fact that it is filling gradually at the rate of 12-15 ft. each year, leads seismologists to the conclusion that within the next 20 yrs. a similar eruption to that of 1783 will occur — since the shallower the crater the more violent the outbreaks. When these occur all the telegraph wires in Karuizawa hum in unison with their menacing roar. The view from the summit is grand; the Kotsuke Mts. are seen at the N., with the Nikko Range on the sky-line, Haruna-san seems startlingly near, as does the commanding range at the W. which forms the boundary between Shinano and Hida Provinces. Fuji can be seen at the far S. on a clear day, and at the far W. the blue Japan Sea.

Kusatsu (p. 99), a mountain resort with celebrated hot springs, lies about 26 M. N.W. of Karuizawa, at the end of a road practicable in the dry season for jinrikishas, but better adapted for pedestrians and horses. If the traveler is unwilling to walk up the steep hills behind Karuizawa, and also up the five-mile stretch between Tatsuishi (the last rest-house on the journey) and Kusatsu as well as at certain intervening points on the road, 3 men will be necessary. Horses are cheaper and more satisfactory. A pack-horse will prove better than a jinriki if there is much luggage. On a pleasant day the trip can be delightful, and on a rainy one execrable. The traveler bound for Ikao and points in N. Japan will save time and money by continuing on from Kusatsu instead of returning to Karuizawa. Before making arrangements for coolies or conveyances beyond Kusatsu consult Rte. 7, p. 95. The traveler will also do well to telephone to the manager of the Kusatsu Hotel at Kusatsu and inquire if an auto or tramcar is in service between that point and Tatsuishi. Should such be the case one can save horse- and coolie-hire by engaging these to Tatsuishi only, and taking the cheaper conveyance to Kusatsu. The manager there will at any time send kagos, horses, and coolies to Tatsuishi to meet travelers. A light rly. between Karuizawa and Kusatsu (a highly interesting

KOMORO The Chikuma-gawa.

place) is in operation. One can also hire a motor-car at a reasonable price.

The road from Karuizawa leads toward Rose, but at the summit of the hill, we continue on at the right instead of descending the slope, and cross the crest of the ridge to the open country beyond. On clear days the views are extensive, with mts. everywhere cutting the sky-line, and grumpy Asama much in the foreground. The rest-houses by the wayside are poor, and offer little in the way of refreshments beyond low- grade boiled rice, small eggs, insipid tea, and poor cakes. A large section of the lowland hereabout is used by the Gov't as a breeding-farm for cavalry horses. As we approach the Agatsuma River the scenery becomes wilder and more picturesque; the country is sparsely populated, and wide stretches of it are uncultivated. Rice, wheat, a species of palma christi from which linen is made; Indian corn, and mulberry trees are the chief products. The poor town of Tatsuishi has an inn in which few will care to sleep after seeing it. The road hence to Kusatsu is described in Rte. 7.

Yokohama-Niigata Rte. continued from p. 68. From Karuizawa the rly. continues across the plateau and soon skirts the base (right) of Hanare-yama with the hamlet of the same name sprawling against its base. Entering a broken country gashed by deep, green gorges through which plunging rivulets course and brawl, the train is soon drawn steadily upward to the 2d highest point (3234 ft.) yet reached by a Japanese rly. (see Rte. 25). From the crest of the ridge magnificent valleys stretch away to the far left and afford extensive views. Crossing a deep gorge with an iron-tinged stream plunging through it, the train runs up a spur track to (95 M.) Miyoda (2710 ft.; Inn: Miyoda, at the station, ¥2), whence it descends gradually over many curves through a region devoted to the production of mulberry trees and its concomitant industry, silk. The paralleling Nakasendo hereabout is better for motor-cars than many a mt. road in America, and it bears broad testimony to the care which a paternal gov't devotes to side issues in remote sections. The huge Asama-yama, whose ugly personality dominates the entire region hereabout, is now seen at the right, unobstructed from the broad base to the squat cone; the deep rifts that gash the grassy slope form ridges that look like huge supporting buttresses, and add considerable massivity to the mt. Far below at the left, racing and plunging downward between high bluffs, stretches the Chikuma-gawa, while far beyond it, on a splendid upland terrace, tiny hamlets glisten and sparkle in the sun.

101 M. Komoro (2276 ft.), a clean town into which water is brought through bamboo pipes overhead (Inn: Tsumuya ¥2), has some splendid old trees, a pretty public garden which was formerly within the castle-grounds of a powerful daimyo.

KOMORO

The Shakuson-ji

and a locally celebrated temple, the Shakuson-ji, a favorite excursion for folks from Karuizawa.

The temple stands on a high bluff overlooking the Chikuma River, about 3 M. from the station (1 hr. walk), in a wild and romantic spot whence there are fine views. The priests (of the Tendai sect of Buddhists) have copied the Chinese custom of making a labyrinthine maze of paths in the vicinity of the several shrines, in some places piercing the rocks and tunneling the hills to accomplish their purpose. The approach to the monastery (often called Nunobiki no Kwannon) is along a narrow gorge which winds up from the river. The general style of the place is similar to that near Lake Haruna, and differs from those of W. Japan in that gorges instead of mt. tops are favorite retreats.

As the rly. continues down the Chikuma Valley one gets adorable views of the bold bluffs beyond the stream, and of the bulky Yatsugatake Range on the S. skyline. The river itself, though here an impetuous mt. stream, later broadens into the Shinano-gawa, and before reaching the sea at Niigata becomes one of Japan's finest rivers. Every foot of the lowlands along its course is sown to rice, barley, wheat, and vegetables, while stunted mulberry trees deck the higher slopes of the hills. The unusual productivity of the land is perhaps aided by the subterraneous fires of Asama-yama. Scores of Moorish- looking water-wheels are employed to irrigate the wedge-shaped plots of land that run back from the river into the hills, and they impart an added air of thrift and purpose. The peasants one sees trudging down the hillsides nearly all bear big bundles of freshly-cut mulberry twigs for the colonies of silk-worms in the homestead. Tall white silk-mills, constructed like Swiss chalets, are seen in some of the wayside towns.

109 M. Oya (Inn: Oya-kwan, ¥2) is usually considered the starting-point for the overland trip to 161 M. Gifu, near the so-called S. terminus of the Nakasendo — a sometime celebrated highway now practically supplanted by the Central Line of the Imperial Gov't Rlys. Below Oya a number of substantial granite retaining walls keep the hillside terraces in place, just as the numerous whirligigs in the grain-fields are supposed to keep the predaceous crows in theirs. 113 M. Uyeda (1562 ft.) produces (in several mills) silk of durable quality and a special fabric (the chief product of the district) called Uyedajima — a sort of Japanese pongee. The old castle which once stood on the river-bank beyond the town is now a ruin. The Bessho Hot Springs lie about 7 M. westward of the town (jinriki, 60 sen). The wide river racing downward at the left, the many quaint foot-bridges, and the houses perched on the steep hillsides make a pretty picture. Beyond (left) 119 M. Sakaki is a bizarre hill like a primitive church; the exit from the amphitheater which it overlooks is through a great gap in the mts. just wide enough for the river, the rly., and the highroad; and as the train threads it it is seen to be a sort of great entrance-way to a lovely, sun-warmed valley intensively cultivated, dotted with hamlets, and flecked

NAGANO

Shinonoi.

with flowers. The thrifty housewives can be seen at work busy with cocoons or reeling the moistened silken threads on primitive single or compound reels. Beyond 135 M. Yashiro the Chikuma-gawa is crossed (bridge 694 ft. long) to 128 M. Shinonoi (Inn: Maruya, ¥2), a historic town on the edge of the Kawanaka-jima plain and known for a great battle fought (in 1561) between the unscrupulous feudal chieftain Takeda Shingen and Uyesugi Kenshin, an equally powerful baron, then Lord of Echigo Province. A branch rly. runs S.E. via Matsumoto and connects at Shiojiri with the Central Rly. Line (Rte. 25).

134 M. Nagano (1284 ft.), capital of Nagano Prefecture, with 39,500 inhabs.; picturesquely situated in a sort of horseshoe curve at the foot of a lofty mt. range that rises greenly behind it, possesses one of the most famous temples in Japan and is the Mecca for pilgrims from all the region which hereabout faces the Japan Sea.

The Fujiya Hotel, an inn on the main st. 10 min. walk from the station (jinriki, 15 sen), is better equipped to entertain foreigners than its branch opposite the station. Rates from ¥4 a day; a little English spoken. The best rooms are at the rear, overlooking the quaint garden. There are a number of other inns hard by, chief among them the Gomei-kwan (¥2). — The long central st. is very lively and picturesque with its scores of tidy shops crammed with merchandise indirectly associated with the temple and the pilgrims who come in throngs to worship its relics. The big mts. at the left of the town are Asahi-yama. and Ishi-yama.

The Zenko Temple, the property of the Tendai sect of Buddhists, stands at the top of the main st., 5 min. walk from the inn and 20 min. from the station. The traveler pressed for time can easily get a comprehensive idea of it between trains (2 hrs. is ample) or can make the excursion hither from Karuizawa and return there the same day. Fees are not obligatory, but are always acceptable. According to tradition the original temple was founded in a.d. 670, and history records that the oldest part of the present structure was erected in the latter half of the 15th cent. The founders are supposed to have been Honda Yoshimitsu, his wife Yayoi-no-Mae, and his son Yoshisuke, who are worshiped along with the three divinities to whom it is dedicated — Amida, Kwannon, and Daiseishi. The great popularity of the fane is associated with the images of these saints, which are enshrined in a special sanctuary in the smallest of a nest of 7 boxes. The reliquary itself (said to date from 1369) is protected from the profane gaze of foreigners by an elaborate brocade curtain which is drawn aside during the chief festivals — the Great Invocation of Buddha, held July 31; one on March 14, in commemoration of the great earthquake of 1847; and others at the spring and autumnal equinoxes. An elaborate fable enshrouds the origin of these figurines, which time seems to have blended into one and which the natives worship with a frenzied reverence. The story runs that while Buddha was preaching his doctrines in India a certain miserly Hindu became convinced of the impiety of avariciousness and declared his intention of making a gold (or platinum) image of the great teacher and worshiping it. The metal was straightway obtained from the Dragon Palace on Shumisen (a fabulous mt. of wonderful height which rises from the middle of the ocean and forms the axis of the universe) and three images fashioned from it. In a.d. 413 they were brought to Korea, and in the 6th cent, were presented by a king of that country to the Emperor Kimmei. A high military officer who was opposed to the adoption of Buddhism in Japan secured the images and threw them into a pond at Naniwa (now Osaka). In the reign of the Empress Suiko (593-628) one Zenko Honda, while passing the pond (later called Amida Pond) noted a glimmer of celestial light making up through the water. The figurines, now

Zenko Temple.

NAGANO

fused into one, were forthwith discovered, and as Zenko was a native of Shinano Province, he brought the image with him to Nagano and caused to be erected there a temple (ji) to be known by his name. Because the idol had originated in India, and had reached Japan via another country, it was (and is) called Sangoku-denrai ('unrivaled object imported through 3 countries*). Many miracles are said to have been worked by it.

The first building at the left within the entrance to the temple grounds bears the Imperial Paulownia crest and is the official residence of an abbess (Ama Miya Sama) belonging to the Imperial family and to a sisterhood of nuns. Adjoining it, back from a big gateway facing the flagged walk, is the elaborate Dai- Hongwan, renovated in 1900 and profusely decorated in black- and-gold, with a red-and-gold lacquered shrine. The light from the tall, ungainly lighthouse on the next terrace can be seen for miles across the plain and is the beacon for many a footsore pilgrim. Varied assortments of war- trophies — ammunition-wagons, cannon, etc. — captured from the Muscovites stand about the court. Midway at the left, behind a quaint bridge which spans a lotus-pond overhung with some ancient gnarled pines, is the Dai- Konshin, adjoining the abbot's residence. Some excellently carved beams in the natural wood, carrying dragon, tennin, waves, flowers, and other designs are features of the porch, which is newer than parts of the interior. Here, in juxtaposition to the elaborately and freshly decorated altar and lateral shrines, are a number of beams used in the erection of the primitive temple centuries ago. To this place come all the pilgrims from remote districts, to buy and take home with them the locally celebrated 'sutra shirts' or kyokatabira, a shroud (sold by the bonzes for 10 sen ) made of sleazy white cotton stuff (like cheese-cloth) 14 in. wide by 34 in. long, fashioned into a front or bosom, and stamped with cabalistic signs. Pilgrims preserve these to be buried in, along with another mystic charm, kechimyaku, also sold at the temples.

Facing the entrance, across the main court, is a huge pedestal surmounted by a green bronze, seated Jizo, flanked on one side by six smaller ones (roku Jizo); each in an attitude different from the other, and each with a baby's bib round its neck; the last in the pathetic row holds a tiny baby in its arms. Jizo is one of the most popular divinities of the temple, and many stone images representing him stand in the yard. The Sammon, or great gate, is huge, time-stained, and dingy. The large, strikingly handsome green bronze water-receptacles at the right and left of the main entrance are almost covered with crests and ideographs and are worth noting. The tall concrete tower at the left, with names stamped in the composing sections, was erected to the memory of those who subscribed appreciable sums to the upkeep of the temple. The Sacred Library, adorned with a number of gilt crests and surmounted by the customary bronze hoshu no tama, is closed to the public. The old graveyard near by is not worth looking at. From a point just beyond the library one may get a comprehensive idea of the vastness of the two-storied structure (108 ft. wide by 198 ft. deep) with its immensely heavy triple-gabled roof (upheld by 136 pillars) marked by & ridge in the style called shumoku, from its resemblance to the wooden hammer used by the Buddhist priests to strike a bell employed in their religious services. The 69,384 rafters (said to have been used in constructing the temple) are symbolic of the number of characters in the Chinese version of the Buddhist scriptures. Many of these are needed to bear the weight of the ponderous roof, which is marked by an intricate and puzzling system of compound brackets stained by time and the elements to a rich, bronze brown. Quaint wind-bells pend from the corners and tinkle in response to the wind that sighs through the lofty trees. The shingles are laid on a foot or more thick, after the attractive manner of the roofs of wealthy Shinto shrines.

The outer part of the great central nave with its two lateral aisles resembles a dismantled junk-shop, so littered is it with huge drums and relics of various sorts. The high, dark, coffered ceiling with its sunken panels, each adorned with a 16-petal chrysanthemum, — in token of the Imperial patronage, — imparts a gloomy, even dismal, aspect to it, and this is heightened by the pigeon-defiled metal lanterns which pend at every available point from the rafters. The side altars flanking the aisles contain a trashy lot of war relics on a par with the big seated figures of the Regent of Hell; the disgraced Binzuru; old Buddha; and other lights that occupy the broad nave.

NOJIRI LAKE

Midway of this is a vast wire screen reaching from floor to roof, to which are tied many locks of hair and other dubious and unclean mementoes. Against the opposite panels forming the architrave are many large and small figures illustrating the terrestrial manifestations of Kwannon; immense gilded Buddhas sit in the loggias at the right and left. The paneled ceiling of the sanctum (shoes must be removed), as well as the curtains adorning it, are decorated with crests, prominent among them the frequently recurring swastika. An elaborate pagoda-like shrine, richly and intricately decorated; a medley of metal fitments, gongs, drums, sutra-boxes, and huge gilt columns, are features of this room, at the left of which is a strikingly attractive reliquary containing a seated Buddha backed by a gilded mandorla that suggests Borromenesco work, with its exquisitely carved scrolls in low relief. Surrounding the Buddha are a host of wonderfully lifelike and excellently sculptured figurines of demons and saints in high relief; a mysterious and impressive ensemble radiating mysticism and work of a high order. Immediately at the right of this is the Holy of Holies with the shrine in which the sacrosanct gold trinity is kept. A somber curtain stamped with a gold dragon breathing crimson flames screens the outer case, which may be seen on payment of a small fee.

Before leaving the temple visitors usually go through the Naijin Maze, a gallery beneath the floor enveloped in Stygian darkness. The entrance is down a few steps at the extreme right of the high altar. The inky black passageway is clean of all obstruction, is sheathed with smooth boards (no splinters) and is about 6 ft. high and as many broad. For 2 min. or more one gropes along to a point about 3/4 of the way, where, at the right, on a level with the hand, is a cow-bell which one rings to prove that the circuit has been made. Three times round is supposed to provide eternal fire insurance for the sinful. Pilgrims make the cheap and safe journey with great eagerness! The exit is through the entrance. — At the back of the temple is a chain of pretty lakelets, and at the right a flowery garden. The traveler will be amply repaid by following the road leading right from the temple entrance, thence over the brow of the hill. The view which rewards one is stupendous in its magnitude; hundreds of square miles of valley and rugged mts. stretch below and against the horizon and emphasize the elevation on which one stands. The attractive structure at the right of the path here is a native club, the Jozan-kwan, from the large reception room of which one also commands an extraordinarily extensive vista. The two small temples seen in the foreground are not worth visiting. — The great earthquake of 1847 almost ruined Nagano; the Zenkoji was badly shaken, and the big bell which now hangs in the belfry fell from its position at the left of the entrance and made the big dent still visible in the pillar. The quake was immediately followed by a fire that destroyed many hundreds of houses; 20,000 people are said to have been killed in the neighborhood.

From Nagano the rly. runs N.W. across the fertile and practically level valley of the Shinano-gawa to (1197 ft.) Toyono, where it begins to climb to 145 M. Mure (1682 ft.). The country is broken, with tall mts. at the left; the Takizawa River and two tunnels are passed before 152 M. Kashiwabara (2304 ft.) is reached. The old town (1 M. to the left) stands on a wide sweep of country, 2 M. from the pretty Nojiri Lake (2 M. long from E. to W.) — a resort for wild fowl. The region is a vast watershed, and hence onward all streams flow W. to the Japan Sea. The climate changes in accordance and long lines of snow-sheds flank the rly. but fail sometimes to guard it from the great drifts (8-10 ft. deep) which accumulate here to be protected by the environing mts. 162 M. Taguchi (1774 ft.) is the point of departure for the (3 1/2 M. to the W.) Akakura Hot Springs (Inn: Kogakuro, ¥2), a popular native resort. A deep gorge now flanks the rly. on the right and

NAOETSU

Japan Sea.

affords awe-inspiring views. The train races downward over a sharp grade through several uninteresting stations to 176 M. Takada (140 ft.), a spruce-looking town in Echigo Province (Inn: Kyosan-kwan, ¥2.50), with a military barrack, and a new and attractive Shinto shrine visible from the left of the train. Snow often lies 10 ft. deep in the sts., and to permit the people to move about, the high, peaked-roof houses are built with connecting porches or cloisters, like the portales of a Spanish town. This style of architecture is common in the region beyond, the houses being long and narrow, with the narrowest part facing the st.

182 M. Naoetsu, 109 ft. above the sea (visible in the distance), is the junction of the West Coast Line (Rte. 32), which comes in from the S., and which links the district with Tsuruga, Kyoto, and other ports and cities of W. Japan. The placid Arakawa flows near it, and the junks which come in from the sea on its broad bosom carry to distant ports much of the oil for which the rich Echigo Province is celebrated. (Inn: Matsuba-kwan, ¥2.50.) A specialty of the town is a sticky, honey-like amber liquid called awa-ame, made of millet and sold (small round boxes, 10 sen ) at the rly. station. The Temple of Gochi-Nyorai, about 1 M. to the S.W., is uninteresting. Oil is the shibboleth of the region, and tank-cars and oil- trains clutter the station-yard.

The rly. (known formerly as the Hokuetsu Line) now bears to the N. and for many miles skirts the shore of the lovely Japan Sea, affording charming views of this on the left and of the lofty mts. of Echigo on the right. The Arakawa, then the Hokuragawa, are crossed, and after 194 M. Hatsusaki eight tunnels are threaded (through Yone-yama), the longest 1450 ft. The unimportant stations look solitary and as poor as the straw huts one sees on the silent beach. Rugged and densely wooded promontories come down to the sea; a solitary steamer wending its way up to the Siberian port of Vladivostok, down to Tsuruga or the China Sea, or two or three lone fishing-boats, are all one descries on this silent, back-yard Sea of Japan—the aqueous buffer which separates the joyous islands of Nippon from the forbidding steppes of the Great White Tsar. It is strangely deserted, and appears to brood in melancholy; but like the misnamed Pacific it can be turbulent enough at times. The shrieking typhoon whips it in summer, and rival blizzards roar over it in winter. One notes that, as precautionary measures against these, the straw boat-houses; the flimsy shacks pathetically called 'home' by the impoverished fisher-folk; the piles of fuel, pine cones and what-not along the shore, are all tied down with ropes, like some of the houses in Kansas, to prevent expatriation. A tangled mass of convolvuli trails over the shifting sand-dunes and adds a single blotch of enlivening

THE JAPAN SEA

color. But for the sounding waves which break and die on the shingly beach or burst into the rocky caverns of the cliffs, the scenery would be too severe to be attractive. Many rocks dangerous to inshore navigation raise their brown backs above the blue water, and all the cliffs seem impregnated with iron. Sado Island looms through the haze at the N.W. At some points the sturdy fisher-folk—the women as strong as the men—use the big caverns in the cliffs as natural harbors for their craft. The sea yields bream (tai), sole (karei), a kind of brill or mackerel (hirame), repulsive but delectable squid, and myriad marine creatures that serve the natives as food and manure. The yards of the more pretentious houses resemble corrals, as pine saplings tied with withes are used as fence-posts and rails.

202 M. Kashiwazaki (Inn: Iwato-ya, ¥2), a large town sprawling along the shore, makes a specialty of the bento sold at the station and much liked by native travelers. The fish and rice which in part compose it are good, but foreigners are apt to avoid the tiny pickled octopi contained in it. Many oil-tanks dot the environs, and considerable oil is produced in the surrounding country. The rly. now bears to the right and runs E. through a densely wooded region to 214 M. Tsukayama, whence it resumes its N. course. Significant features of the view are the small herds of Holstein cattle, unknown in the days of Old Japan and still noteworthy because of their rarity. Here as elsewhere in the island milk (gyu-nyu) is fast becoming a necessary food. From 219 M. Raikoji, a branch rly. is in process of construction to the near-by town of Kosendani, and will eventually skirt the base of the lofty Shumon-dake, visible at the far right. The great staple of the lowland country is rice, and the wide paddies are laid out in a multiplicity of patterns, ranging from plots a few feet square to others acres in extent; all are carefully separated from one another by small mud dykes or ridges pierced by sluiceways. The Sugawa, then the broad Shinano River are crossed, the latter on a 6-span steel bridge. Many rafts of logs float down, and many picturesque and stately junks sail up its sluggish current, the latter making unusually pretty pictures when seen from afar, with the white sails only showing above the green foliage. Many bicycles spin along the country roads, which are practicable for autos. The people hereabout prepare for the severe winters by putting up along the sea aspect of their dwellings, at distances of 3 or more ft. from the walls, tall frameworks or lattices, the interstices of which are filled in with brushwood, moss, etc. Where there are trees, fences are erected between them, or they are interlaced and formed into a protecting wall to ward off the winds which blow with such violence that steamer travel on the Japan Sea is interrupted at times.

Oil Industry.

NAGAOKA

235 M. Nagaoka (Inns: Masu-ya, Seiyoken, etc., ¥2.50) a thriving town (pop. 36,000) 170 ft. above the sea, in Echigo; 2d in importance to Niigata and formerly the residence of Makino, a faithful feudal adherent of the Tokugawa regime; played a prominent part in the war for the Restoration and was practically demolished in consequence. Long cleated poles and rocks hold down the roofs of many of the houses, which are provided with the cloister-like arcades so necessary during the heavy winter snows. The numerous oil-wells and tall pumps on the hillsides remind one of a Pennsylvania town. The chief wells are in the near-by Higashi hills, and the refineries in Nakajima.

The oil industry in Japan centers in Echigo Province (which supplies 99% of the petroleum consumed) and particularly about Nagaoka. Oil was known to exist here 200 yrs. ago, but the first well was not put down until 1818. In 1876 an American geologist in the employ of the Japanese Gov't visited the region and made a report on the fields, but the industry produced but little results until about 1890, when it assumed noteworthy proportions. The geological formation of the fields is similar to that of other countries, and foreign practice is employed in the matter of wells, refineries, etc. — Echigo is noted for its pretty women, its rich farmers, the number of emigrants which go to other parts of Japan and to foreign countries; for the courtesy of its people and for its Shishimai performers — a dance executed by men or boys wearing a shishi-gashira, or lion-head mask, lacquered and painted red.

239 M. Sanjo; a big stratum of gas is supposed to underlie the region hereabout, as in some places gas bubbles up through the soil and is utilized by the peasantry for lighting and cooking. About 15 M. to the S.E. lies the small summer resort of Yogi, near the Igarashi River, with some picturesque scenery. 10 M. farther on, at Yoshi-ga-hira is a lake 1350 ft. above sea- level with a boiling spring in its center. Fine groves of bamboos and cryptomerias now become features in the landscape, and petroleum wells mark the near-by hills. A number of these cluster about (255 M.) Niitsu where there are also several big tanks. Acres hereabout are devoted to pear culture. The Koaka River is crossed to Kameda station, then an arm of it to 264 M. Nuttari, the sometime terminus of the rly. For a short distance the rly. skirts the Shinano-gawa which here is about as wide as the Ohio at Cincinnati.

266 M. Niigata (population 62,000), capital of Niigata Prefecture and Echigo Province, with 12,000 houses, many of them picturesque and curiously constructed, stands on a sand- spit between the Shinano River and the Japan Sea. The flat, clean, and attractive city was one of the first ports opened (in 1869) to foreign trade, and at that time was regarded as one of the quaintest towns on the W. coast. While advanced architectural ideas have changed many of the primitive features, others remain. Formerly the majority of the houses were long and narrow, with peaked, gabled roofs; the narrowest part, facing the st., being provided with portals as a protection against the summer sun and the winter snows. These

NIIGATA

Bandai Bashi.

have now shrunk to unusually wide overhanging eaves which serve to prevent the snow from sifting through the shoji. The new gov't buildings, the banks, and other semi-foreign houses, rank with those of other Japanese cities. Many canals intersect the city, and are overhung with weeping-willow trees. When the tide makes in, lines of mediaeval junks ply up and down the shaded surface of the streams; receive and discharge cargo at the very doors of the warerooms; and recall certain Netherland towns. Jan. is the coldest month and Aug. the hottest. Despite its more N. situation, and the prevalence of heavy snows, the temperature varies but little from that of Tokyo, the altitude of the barometer being 25.6°. The city stands in lat. 37° 55' N, and in long. 139° 03' E. of Greenwich, and is therefore in practically the same lat. as San Francisco and Lisbon.

A wide foot-bridge, the Bandai Bashi (Myriad Ages Bridge), of 430 spans each 6 ft. long, arches over the river and connects the city proper with the rly. station. Autos at moderate rates.

Niigata Hotel (semi-foreign style). Single rooms from 4 to 6 yen. Double from 8 to 10 yen. Meals in the restaurant at 1 yen to 2.50.

The Rly. Line which runs E. from the suburban town of Niitsu connects with Koriyama, an important junction mentioned at p. 321. Travelers to Northern Japan ( Aomori, Yezo, etc.) or those who may wish to return to Tokyo a different way, may elect to go over this line, which runs through a picturesque country.

The line which runs N. via Shibata goes to (169 M.) Akita, mentioned at p. 325. For time, fares, etc., over these lines see the Gov't Rly. Time Table.

The river-front is one of the most animated districts of Niigata. Long lines of junks, rafts, etc., are usually tied up near the bank; whence small steamers leave for the near-by Island of Sado. Owing to the violent N. winds, navigation over the shallow bar at the river mouth is suspended during several months of the year, at which time only small craft can come up to the city. The sand-dunes which border this on the W., and which exclude the sea-breeze while cutting off the sea-view, are partially covered with fantastic pine trees and in places rise to a height of 50 or more ft. Perched along the ridge are signal stations, the big Normal School with its adjacent Red Cross Hospital, and a number of dwellings. From the crests of the hills fine views are obtainable of Sado Island and of the lofty mts. of Echigo. On the slope of the high hill (called Hakusan, or 'White Mt.') at the S. edge of the city, there is a restful park, some pretty trees, and a time-stained Shinto shrine near an elaborate monument to Jimmu Tenno. Coarse lacquer-ware is a specialty of Niigata and is made in hundreds of homes, along with considerable lace.

Sado Island (Chinese: Sashu), 17 M. W. of Niigata, in the Japan Sea, beyond a deep channel (310 fathoms) across which the local steamers (the boats of the Osaka Shosen Kaisha are the most comfortable) run daily (in 5 hrs., to 32 M. Ebisu Minato, ¥3, 1st cl.) between April and Oct.; is approximately 32 M. long and 17 M. wide at its narrowest point. It forms (338 sq. M.) a division of Niigata Prefecture; has about 120,000 inhabs., and is conspicuous for 2 mt. ranges (chiefly limestone) which overlook a cultivated plain with large bays at the N.E. and S.W. extremes. Kimpoku-san at the N. rises to a height of 3895 ft. From Ebisu Minato (Crab Port), a poor and unattractive town (Inn: Yamagata-ya, ¥2) at the N.E., to Aikawa (chief town of the W. side of the island; Inn: Takada-ya, ¥2), is about 16 M. Just before reaching Aikawa the road ascends to a pass 500 ft. above the sea-level. The locally famous gold and silver mines (owned and operated by the Mitsu Bishi Co. of Tokyo) which anciently belonged to, and were worked by (forced labor), the Tokugawa shogunate, are located in a steep-walled valley. The silver sulphid, native gold, and chalcopyrite ores are found in quartz lodes in quartzite veins varying from 3 to 18 ft. in thickness. The annual output of gold is about 14,000 ounces; silver, 115,000; copper, 50 tons. Cattle-breeding is a growing industry, and the island supplies many of the mainland cities with good beef. In the early days Sado was a sort of Botany Bay for exiled criminals and other undesirables with political aspirations. The militant Nichiren was imprisoned here in 1271-72.