横浜から宮ノ下、芦ノ湖、熱海へ

5. From Yokohama to Miyanoshita, Lake Hakone, and Atami.

* Miyanoshita ('Below the Shrine'; pronounced me-yah-no'-she-tah), one of the most delightful and popular resorts in Japan; 1377 ft. above sea level, on a cyclopean terrace near the heart of the Hakone Mts.; 40 M. west of Yokohama, in Sagami Province, is known far and wide for its super-excellent hotel (one of the best in the Far East); its numerous thermal springs; its invigorating air; its beautiful situation high poised among stupendous hills dominated in turn by the lordly Fuji-no-yama; for the multiplicity of charming walks that radiate in every direction from the hotel, and for the intensely volcanic nature of the environing country. It is the nearest point to Yokohama where one can witness the titanic and terrifying forces of nature in her primeval workshop flaming with internal fires, still engaged in the task of perfecting Japan. Few travelers who love the wild and thrillingly picturesque in nature fail to visit this romantic spot; and no traveler should miss seeing it. Ample time should be allowed to visit it, for as a rule no matter how long the traveler remains there he wishes he might remain longer. It is a place to spend a vacation rather than a few days as a sight-seeing duty.

Miyanoshita can be reached by auto direct from (45 M.) Yokohama in about 2 1/2 hrs. By auto via Sugita, Kamakura and the old Tokaido (military highway) (52 M.) in about 3 1/2 hrs. By railway to (1 1/2 hrs.) Kozu (Rte. 24, p. 368), thence (12 M., 50 min.) by motor. By rly. to (1 3/4 hrs.) Odawara, thence (8 M., 40 min.) by motor or motor-bus; or by rly. to Odawara, thence to Miyanoshita (or beyond to Gora) by electric tramcar (densha).

Detailed information relating to fares by motor can be had of the manager of the Hotel New Grand, at Yokohama; of the management of the Fujiya Hotel, at Miyanoshita (which conducts an excellent auto service between the port of Yokohama and many of the surrounding places), or from any office of the Japan Tourist Bureau. Fares and other data relating to the rly. will be found in the excellent Condensed Time Table of the Imperial Gov't Railways. The best and most detailed map and description (useful and desirable) of the Hakone District is printed (and distributed free) by the Fujiya Hotel management.

Eastbound.—Travelers from Kyoto, Kobe, etc., desirous of

visiting the Hakone Region en route to Yokohama or Tokyo, can, by writing ahead to the Fujiya Hotel manager, arrange to have a hotel car awaiting the train at Numazu Station (p. 370) to carry them direct to (24 M.) Miyanoshita. The route is past the noted Lake Hakone.

Hikers often vary the trip by descending from the rly. or motor-car at Odawara, taking a tramcar to Yumoto, and walking thence to Miyanoshita.

Odawara town is known for its charming sea views, its orange groves and flowers, and for an old castle the date of whose erection is unrecorded. It is known to have passed into the hands of Omori Yoriaki in 1416, and to have been captured by Hojo Soun in 1494. Uesugi Kenshin besieged it in vain in 1561, as did also the redoubtable Takeda Shingen in 1573. The wily and acquisitive Hideyoshi attacked it with a powerful army in 1590 and captured it, coincident with the downfall of the Hojo. A long line of Tokugawa shoguns dwelt in it thereafter, and at the time of the Restoration it was the seat of Okubo, with an annual revenue of 116,000 koku of rice. — The last part of the trip is up the rock-strewn valley of the turbulent Hayagawa, overlooked by the twin humps of Futagoyama.

Time can be saved between Yumoto and Miyanoshita by taking one of the several short cuts (shikamachi) which lead up (left) from the winding road beyond Tonosawa (the bathing resort just beyond Yumoto). The best of these short cuts (easily followed) is one which turns inward about halfway up and rejoins the main road at the Fujimitei Tea-House, 1 1/4 M. below Miyanoshita.

The road leads up (left) from the station, through the picturesque street of the town, then over the bridge and around the corner (left) to Tonosawa. The whole region is pink with cherry blooms in early April. The big power flume at the right, on the hill beyond Tonosawa, receives its water from a point near Miyanoshita Village (tunnel through the hills, along the edge of the ravine) and supplies a part of the power employed to light Yokohama. The largest hamlet passed on the upward trip is Ohiradai. Just beyond this high-poised place Miyanoshita is seen astride the main st., at the head of a deep ravine which here turns to the right and leaves the village on the hill-slope at the left.

The trim, comely, picturesque village of Miyanoshita perches above a yawning chasm through which plunges the tempestuous Hayagawa. Its elevated situation ensures clear, bracing air and beguiling views. The volcanic nature of the immediate neighborhood manifests itself in numerous solfataras, thermal springs, steaming gorges, waterfalls and whatnot. A veritable network of enticing mt. trails radiate from the settlement to easily attainable peaks and plateaus whence one gets entrancing and unforgettable views of the masterful Fuji.

MIYANOSHITA

* The Fujiya Hotel (Tel. address: 'Fujiya, Miyanoshita'; — Long Distance Telephone), a thoroughly delightful hostelry widely and favorably known for its many foreign-style comforts and for its artistic setting and environment, is likewise popular for its excellent food, perfect service, for its (hot and cold) mineral baths (big swimming pool), for its many conveniences and refinements, and for its moderate charges. The winding paths of the exceptionally beautiful landscape garden lead to adorable cascades, rockeries and sequestered bosky retreats that will take the strain out of the most obstinately jangled nerves. They make for a peace and serenity of spirit unlooked-for by the hurried Occidental.

The hotel is under a management allied to that of the celebrated (for its beauty and charm) Kanaya Hotel at incomparable Nikko. Its famous managing director, Mr. H. S. Kanaya Yamaguchi, has visited all the celebrated spas of the world, has had a wide experience in the management of hotels catering directly to foreign travelers of taste and discernment, and he is known to a host of world travelers. Requests for descriptive booklets of the Hakone Region, hotel rates, etc., addressed to him will receive instant attention.

The Golf Course (9 holes; 2749 yards long) of the Fujiya Hotel is located at Sengokuhara, 6 M. from the hotel; 20 min. by motor car or bus; on foot about 1 1/2 hrs. via Kiga and Miyagino (along the military road). At Sengokuhara pedestrians take the path at the left; motorists continue along the road to the Club House at the foot of Otome-toge (Maiden's Pass).

From Miyanoshita proper one looks out upon an encircling amphitheatre of solemn hills, but from the higher reaches one sees row after row of diminishing peaks, the sunshine rippling on the bosom of dimpling lakes, and beyond, the hazy line that marks the azure Pacific. A marvellous tranquillity and restfulness broods above the region, which is one of unquestioned charm. The myriad wild flowers which in great variety deck the hill-slopes for the greater part of the year are not the least among their attractions. The incomparable Fuji is an everpresent object in the landscape.

The Hakone Region is known for the numerous articles turned from different native woods and called Hakone-zaiku, or Hakone Woodwork. Chief among the woods used are the camphor-laurel, employed for inlaying because of its silky luster; persimmon, keyaki, Japanese pepper (sansho); a species of sago (sosetsu); black alder (hari-no-ki), etc. The waxy appearance of some of the pieces is imparted by putting them on a lathe and pressing against them a piece of vegetable wax (ro). The Gampi-ori sold in some of the shops is made at Atami, and is referred to under that caption.

The Walks and Excursions possible from Miyanoshita are

legion. Some of them are of rare charm and are unforgettable. The hotel management has trained some of the local coolies to act as porters and guides, and they do this willingly and satisfactorily for a small wage. On some of the walking trips they are necessary because of the complexity and obscurity of the trails. In such cases they easily save their wages by saving their employer's time. The best plan is to have the hotel manager make the arrangements and adjust the pay of the men. The traveler with insufficient time to make leisurely hiking trips will find the motor-cars and their drivers as supplied by the Fujiya Hotel serviceable in every way. Chairs and jinrikis are also available. The most popular excursions are mentioned below.* The time given refers to excursions on foot.

To Myojo-ga-take (or Mukoyama), the rounded hill (3027 ft.) beyond the gorge (E.) from Miyanoshita. The route (time about 1 1/2 hrs.) is through Dogashima. After crossing the stream the trail bears r. for some distance, then turns l. to the crest of the hill. The views are good, but better ones are to be had from other places mentioned hereinafter. They include Otome-toge, Kintokizan (r.), and Myojin-ga-take.

To Sengenyama (2150 ft.), a 45 min. steady climb to the crest of the wooded hill (800 ft.) back of the Fujiya Hotel. Fine views of Fuji, the serrated Kintokizan, Sagami Bay, the Miura Peninsula and Enoshima Island. If one has time the trip can be extended by following the ridge, then descending to the famous Chisuji-no-taki Waterfall at Kowakidani, and back by the main road to the hotel. Time about 2 hrs. for the entire trip.

Kiga and Miyagino, the former a small hamlet, the latter a village on the far bank of the Hayakawa, about 1/2 M. (time 15 min.) from the hotel, contain nothing of interest, and can be included in the following group.

To Kowakidani, Gora, Ojigoku, Sengokuhara, Otome-toge (Maiden's Pass), and Nagao-toge. About 16 M.; 7 hrs. walk. Quicker in a motor-car. One can board a tram car at Miyanoshita for (1 1/4 M.) Gora and thus shorten the distance. Or the traveler bound for Gotemba can visit the first 5 places en route to Nagao-toge. The broad road winds over the hills back of the village (S.W.). A short cut turns in at the bridge which spans the stream, and by following it Kowakidani ('small valley of the great boiling') can be reached in 25 min. The dying volcanic region hereabout formerly was called Kojigoku (Little Hell). The road which branches left goes to Hakone Lake. That at the right leads one in 25 min. to Gora, with a semi-wild park. The tramline runs to Odawara. The cross-road leading down the slope goes to Miyagino. Bearing left one soon enters a broken region (3478 ft.) smelling strongly of sulphur, and in 35 min. comes to Ojigoku (Big Hell), 3 1/2 M. from the Fujiya Hotel (whence one may come by electric car to Gora, thence by cable car to Sounzan, and the rest of the way afoot: time about 3 hrs. for the round trip). Guide advisable here because of the treacherous nature of the ground (which may sink under one and burn one's feet). The district is so-called from

the subterraneous fires which make their presence known by a few thin wisps of steam and offensive gases. Hot water is piped to some of the native bath-houses farther down the valley.

On the other side of the gorge a rough path leads along the edge of the cliff to a bathing establishment frequented by ailing natives. The road continues first through the small settlement, then some pine woods, and in 10 min. passes some shallow ponds (1 min. to right of path) grandiloquently referred to as Natural Ice Factories. The hamlet visible on the slope of the hill beyond the wide valley is Sengokuhara; the saddle between the lofty hills at the left of it is Otome-toge (3276 ft.), whence one may command a fine view of Fuji from base to summit; the jagged peak behind the village is Kintoki-zan (1 hr. climb). Before reaching the point (1 1/2 hrs.) where the path zigzags up the steepish slope to the pass, one enters the broad military road constructed through the Hakone region in 1912-13. By following this as it winds up at the left one comes (1 hr. walk) to Nagao Pass, at practically the same elevation as Otome. A brick-lined tunnel 1/2 M. long leads through the crest of the ridge, by climbing to the summit of which (above the tunnel) one may, while lunching, enjoy the magnificent prospect of the broad Gotemba plain with Fuji rising grandly from it. Other splendid peaks cut the skyline, conspicuous among them Shirane-san, N.W. of Fuji, in Kai Province. Hakone Lake is seen to advantage in retrospect. The pass here is a favorite one with motorists, but when the road has been newly metaled the sharp volcanic stones employed are ruinous to rubber tires. The many pack-animals which cross the pass bring young cryptomerias which men of the Forestry Bureau plant on the bald slopes of the Hakone Mts. Gotemba Station, near Fuji's base, is 7 M. distant.

The return journey can be varied by descending (3 M.) to Umijiri (about 3/4 hr.) at the N. end of Hakone Lake and proceeding by boat (¥1.50) to Moto Hakone, thence to Miyanoshita over the first stage of the excursion to Atami. — A shorter way back is to leave the military road just below the tunnel, descend the slope, and cross the wide valley to the road E. of Sengokuhara; pheasants haunt the region hereabout and rise frequently with a great whirring of wings. Seen from below, the pike takes on a decidedly grandiose character; it is held in place here and there by massive granite embankments, and reminds one of certain of the splendid highways in the Swiss Alps. An hr. after leaving the pass one sees Ojigoku at the far right. Following the military road through the gorge of the Hayagawa, the nondescript Miyagino is soon reached, then Kiga, beyond which the hotel is a 10 min. walk. The section through which the road passes here is called Sokokura, literally 'Bottom of the Storehouse'; in the deep ravine spanned by a high bridge is the noisy Jakotsu-gawa, or 'River of the Serpent's

Bones,' so-called from a white fossil wood sometimes found and which resembles dry bones.

To (Kiga, Miyagino) Myojingatake and Saijoji (or Doryo-san) Temple, and return via (Sekimoto) Odawara, and Yumoto. This is essentially a walking-trip, as the route in some places ascends over trails so steep that even a jinriki is impracticable. Coolie to act as guide and carry wraps, lunch-basket, etc., advisable. If one returns via Odawara, a hotel motor-car can be had in readiness there to bring one back to the hotel.

Pedestrians with weak hearts and a distaste for elevations, who plan to return the same way from Saijoji, usually alter these plans when by dint of some effort they have gained the summit of Myojingatake (3820 ft.) and look back upon the wicked, knife-edge ridges leading up to it. Waraji are a great help on this toilsome and sometimes slippery ascent, as is also a stout staff. A bottle of Tansan or cold tea forms a grateful stimulant. Near the actual summit is a wide terrace (dai) whence one gets a sweeping view of the lordly Fuji and many of the passes of the Hakone Range.

The road leads through Kiga, crosses the river at Miyagino, follows a stony path up through the village, then a rocky gulch, and finally emerges on the mt. flank; up which one goes slowly over a broadly zigzagging path whence fine views are had in retrospect. A steady walker will find himself on the summit 1 1/2 hrs. after leaving the hotel. The worst is then over; the deep arroyos which gash the brown turf on the other side of the ridge offer no difficulties, and the temple roof is soon descried far below at the left, in its sacred grove of immense cryptomerias.

The Main Temple, called the Myokwaku-do, founded by Ryo-an in the 14th cent, and now the property of the Soto sect of Buddhists, stands on an artificial terrace reached by a flight of 52 stone steps flanked at the top by big bronze Tengu¹ with great noses and gilded eyes; others of the same class stand about the atrium and impart a bizarre and childish aspect to the place.

Stretching N. from the lower end of the temple inclosure is an avenue of tall cryptomerias leading to (2 M.) Kano village. Thirty min. after quitting the temple, one passes beneath the great Nio-mon (with its two big Nio plastered all over with spit-ball prayers), and leaves the ave. at Kano. By taking a short cut here at the right, one need not go to Sekimoto, visible at the left. The unruly little river which is soon crossed on a wooden bridge is the Karigawa; extensive riparian work has been needed to keep it within its banks. Tsukahara village is marked by a bridge (over the Kari River).

At Odawara the tramline from Kozu to Miyanoshita (and Gora) is rejoined.

* The Tengu is a mt. elf or hobgoblin which is believed to have been added to the congress of Buddhist demons by the Japanese.

To Lake Shoji (51 M.) and the Lake Region at the base of Fujiyama. See p. 43. Special arrangements can be made with the Fujiya Hotel management to make this delightful trip, as well as others in the environs, and to more distant places, in the trustworthy hotel cars.

To Atami (18 M.; 6 hrs.) via Kowakidani (2 M.; 30 min.), Ashinoyu (5 M.; 1 1/4 hrs.), Hakone (7 M.; 2 hrs.) and the Ten Province Pass. By leaving Miyanoshita at 8 a.m. one can (afoot) reach Atami about 2 p.m. The time can be shortened by taking a motor-car to (30 min.) Hakone, and a 'chair' (desirable for ladies) the rest of the way. A bright day should be chosen for the trip. In wet weather the mt. paths are slippery and the views obscured in mist. A good walker can make the traject with ease. Unless one is acquainted with the region, and can speak a little Japanese, a coolie should be taken along as guide and porter.

The path winds S.W. over the hills from the upper end of the village. At Kowakidani (2100 ft.) it leads over the crest of the ridge. Ashinoyu (2870 ft.), highest of the Hakone watering places, derives its name from the hot springs (yu) which issue from a reedy plain (ashi) near by. A smell of fetid eggs advertises the nature of the sulphurous water which runs in yellow streams across the roadway. The 3 moss-grown tombs at the left of the road beyond the settlement commemorate the brothers Soga Sukenari, and Soga Tokimune, 12th century military heroes. The trend is now downward between volcanic hills. Hakone Lake comes into view, then Moto Hakone, on the lake shore.

Hakone Lake (2378 ft.), known also as Ashi-ko, a clear sheet of water 3 1/2 M. long, 1/2 M. wide, and about 150 ft. deep, is circled by half-bare volcanic mts. of which the tallest is Koma-ga-take (Pony Peak, 4452 ft.) at the E. The lake is near the border line of Suruga Province, and is drained chiefly by the Hayagawa, which flows out of its N. end, and after a roundabout course goes through Miyanoshita and falls into Odawara Bay. The distance along the E. shore to Umijiri, the hamlet at the topmost point, is 5 M.; thence to Nagao-toge about 3 M.

Following the road which skirts the lake we soon pass (right) the pretentious Imperial Summer Villa, within a fenced and guarded preserve (no admittance) on a promontory overlooking the lake. The broad avenue is now shaded by flanking files of magnificent and lofty cryptomerias, after the style of those at Nikko. Fuji is seen at the far right, rising over the saddle formed by the Nagao-toge. Hakone Village, a down-at-the-heel, old-fashioned place, on the S.E. side of the lake, has but little to recommend it — unless one is seeking absolute quiet. The Hakone Hotel and several lonely inns stand on the beach, waiting for the few travelers who come this way only in summer. It is an easy 2 hrs. walk hither from Miyanoshita, and 4 hence to Atami.

During the Tokugawa epoch the now decayed and decadent Hakone was an important station on the old Tokaido between the new capital of Yedo

and the old one of Kyoto. Toyotomi Hideyoshi marched past here in 1590 when he assailed the Odawara Hojo in their castellated fortress, and in later times many a glittering daimyo train stopped here to hold high revel in the tea-houses overlooking the storied lake. At that period the old Hakone no sekisho, or 'barrier,' established for the surveillance of travelers, stood at the pass just west of the village, to the terror of malefactors and the uneasiness of political malcontents and refugees. Here was located the Kwan, or gate, the important border post, which had to be passed on entering the Kwanto region, or used in going in the other direction toward the Kuwansai. The old highroad has now lost its mediaeval and military character, and for the latter purpose has been supplanted by the new gov't road which leads through the gorge of the Hayagawa and over the Nagao-toge. The highest peak of the Hakone Mts. is Kami-yama, 4700 ft.

At the far end of the village the road turns sharply up at the left, away from the lake; henceforward jinrikis are impracticable, owing to the steepness of the paths. A stiff 20 min. climb brings one to the crest of the ridge, whence there are fine views in retrospect. From the summit of the big rounded Kurakake-yama (3300 ft.), about 1/2 hr. at the left, views finer even than those from the Ten Province Pass, 6 M. beyond, are obtainable. Until that point is reached the trail ascends and descends gently over a vast upland plain or wide ridge with views so far-reaching and grand that one feels as if one were walking over the roof of the world; it is a vast, silent world, where only an occasional grass-cutter is seen, and from which one looks down into stupendous valleys equally silent and unpeopled. A cold wind blows steadily across the top, bringing coolness in summer and a searching chill in winter. Fuji is the dominating figure in the seemingly limitless landscape. Erelong a solitary, blasted old cryptomeria, the Ippon Sugi, is sighted, with a stone idol at its base; and from it the sea is visible at the far left.

A huge stone marks the Ten Province Pass or Jikkoku-toge (3200 ft.), which instead of being a pass between mts. is merely a big rounded hilltop, whence the mts. (provided the day be crystal clear) of 10 provinces (Suruga, Sagami, Izu, Totomi, Kai, Awa, Kazusa, Shimosa, Musashi, and Kotsuke) may be seen. Fujisan is again the dominating feature. Most beautiful of all is the province of Neptune, which stretches far below to a horizon as distant as that of optimistic youth. Atami is hidden by a bend in the ridge. Proceeding across the mt. tops we soon enter a region where the vegetation shows the effect of a S. exposure.

A short descent brings one to a picturesque street which leads down through the town to the sea.

Atami (a contraction of Atsu-ami, or hot sea) 2 1/2 hrs. by train from Yokohama, a charming health resort noted for its balmy climate, its medicinal baths and for the volcanic nature of its sub-soil, nestles cosily in a V-shaped valley reaching back into the hills from the lovely Sagami Bay (on the E. edge of the Izu Peninsula, in Izu Province), and is embowered in orange groves, camphor-trees and many flowers — which because of

the favorable exposure and the subterraneous fires bloom riotously. Here the blushing cherry-blossoms come out a month or more ahead of those of Tokyo, and from late Dec. to early March the (3000 or more) plum trees (in full bloom in Jan.) in the famous Plum Garden (Bai-en) make of the spot a sort of floral fairyland (regarded as one of the finest sights in Japan). To this delightfully tranquil, sequestered spa come many unfortunates with tuberculous tendencies, to inhale the steam which issues from many fissures in the ground, and to find a cure in the sulphurous waters of the many local baths. The place is a sort of Japanese Amalfi and Riviera combined, a delightful spot in which to spend a week-end, and popular with Tokyo and Yokohama residents.

Hotels. The * Mampei Hotel (Tel. address: 'Mampei, Atami') stands on the slope of a steep hill, up from the rly. station (visible), is new (opened in 1928), modern, well furnished, is conducted in foreign style (there are a few Japanese rooms), is under the same excellent management as the Mampei Hotel in Karuizawa, and is the best hotel (recommended) in the town. Rates vary from 10 to 15 yen for a good single room (and meals) and bath (American Plan), and range up to 27 yen for a double room with bath. Cheaper without bath, and meals. For meals only; Breakfast, 2 yen; Tiffin, yen 2.50; Dinner, yen 3. Good food. Autos are available. Hotel porters meet trains and take care of passengers and baggage. The views from the front veranda and terrace are startling in their immensity. An attractive place for a week end. Popular with Yokohama and Tokyo residents. Telephone.

The * Atami Hotel (tel. address: 'Atami Hotel'), a modern, less pretentious but comfortable, long-established hotel about 10 min. by motor-car from the station, occupies a commanding site with superb views over the town and the sea, and is popular with Japanese and foreigners. Rates: Rooms only, from 3 yen (without private bath) to 7 yen (with bath), single; and from 7 to 14 yen American Plan. Double rooms from 10 to 14 yen and from 22 to 25 yen. Meals only: Breakfast, yen 1.50; Tiffin, yen 2. Dinner, yen 2.50. Motor-cars, hot and cold natural and mineral water baths; swimming-pool; tennis-court, etc.

Motor-boats for pleasure, fishing, etc., can be arranged for at either of the hotels. Also motor-cars for country trips.

The Railway Station is on a terrace above the town, 5 min. walk from the delightfully picturesque Main Street. Autos and jinrikis are available, but distances are short. Many pretty footpaths, or short cuts, lead down to the sea. One of the 'sights' of Atami is The Failing Geyser (O-yu, or 'Great Hot Water'), which was brought (in 1860) to the notice of foreigners by Sir Rutherford Alcock, Great Britain's first Minister (commemorative monument) to the Mikado's Court. Formerly,

at stated intervals and with a frightful roaring, it spouted hot water and steam, which jerked out horizontally from a jagged opening in a rock-group in the front yard (open to the public, no fees) of the O-yu Bathing Establishment (interesting; not sulphur baths; promiscuous bathing) near the center of the town. Since the earthquake of 1923 it steams (about every 2 hrs.) only. At its source the water (salts, chlorides, sulphates) is the hottest (226.4° Fahr.) in Japan. Steam issues from many places in the town, and not a few of the people cook food over the jets. On a lowering day, when the vapors hang low and sulphur stenches abound, the place recalls another orthodox one far less pleasant than Japan.

There are many charming walks and drives in the vicinity. From certain of those along the shore overhung with grotesque pines, one commands some of the loveliest seascapes in Japan. Certain of the spots are so extraordinarily romantic that they lure one to commit suicide! Such a place is Nishiki-ura (Brocade Beach), which is frankly spoken of as the favorite place for winter suicides in the Kwanto District! The lapis-lazuli tides that swirl and purl through the coral reefs and the mysterious caves and grottoes along the fantastic shore, sing a siren song apparently irresistible to tortured young souls enthralled by love's maddening distemper. In one month as many as a dozen young couples cheek to cheek and closely clasped in a last desperate embrace, have been reverently lifted from the treacherous depths of the translucent waters!

The most important local industry is fishing, and when schools of deep sea fish (often buri, or amber-fish) enter the bay a lookout (tomi) on the promontory known as Uwomi-ga-saki (Fish View) blows resounding notes on a great conch (hora-no-kai) to apprise the fishermen to get their big nets out. Great excitement then prevails, for the catches are valuable. — One of the largest rocks on the cape is called Kabuto-iwa, from its resemblance to a war helmet.

A local (and desirable) product is the 'wild-goose-skin' paper made of the fibre of Edgeworthia papyrifera and known as Gampishi (also mitsumata). Mixed with silk from the wild silkworm the gampi is twisted into a tough, washable fabric which is fashioned into (cheap and attractive) handbags, cushion-covers and whatnot. It resembles a coarse pongee. Turned wood articles, an ame sweetmeat made from oranges and limes; camellia oil (tsubaki-abura) used for hair-dressing, and other small things are made locally.

Hikers may wish to remember that the walk over the Ten Province Pass to Miyanoshita is more fatiguing than when made from Miyanoshita (which is high-poised, and from which one comes down to the sea). It can be made easier by telephoning to the Fujiya Hotel management, at Miyanoshita, to have one of the hotel motor-cars awaiting one at Hakone.