横浜から鎌倉（江ノ島）を経て横須賀（浦賀・三崎）へ

2. From Yokohama via Kamakura (Enoshima) to Yokosuka (Uraga and Misaki).

Imperial Government Railway.

Kamakura (from kama, a scythe, and kura, a warehouse), 14 M. S.W. of Yokohama, in Sagami Prov., anciently the military capital and chief city of Japan; justly renowned as a seaside resort of rare charm and tranquillity (good hotel; lovely beach; delightful views; fishing, golfing, boating, bathing, tennis, dancing), lies in a fertile tree- and flower-decked region overlooking the beautiful Sagami Bay, and is popular with foreigners — many of whom have summer villas there. The climate is milder than that of Tokyo, and spring comes earlier.

Frequent trains of the Imperial Gov't Lines (Yokosuka Branch) leave Yokohama daily for (about 40 min.) Kamakura. For time of departure, fares, and other information consult the Rly. Time Table. A favorite method with pedestrians is to proceed to (10 M.) Ofuna Jct., by train and do the remaining 4 M. on foot. The broad highway (comp. the accompanying plan) flanks the rly. and traverses a series of green valleys lying between verdure-covered hills. The outskirts of Kamakura begin about 1 M. from Ofuna. At 1 2/3 M. the Engakuji Temple is passed. The Kenchoji is 1/2 M. beyond this, and a walk of another 1/2 M. brings one to the Hachiman Temple. The country is beautiful, peaceful, and safe.

Taxis and motor-buses meet trains in Kamakura, and tram-cars that proceed to a point near Enoshima, and other places, start from near the station.

Motor-cars for the run from Yokohama (good road) can be hired cheaply of the Hotel New Grand management. Descriptive booklets, maps, etc., are distributed by the Japan Tourist Bureau, and by the Kaihin Hotel, at Kamakura.

Kamakura Town (pop. 10,000) is scattered over a wide area dotted with many groves and fine avenues of pine trees, junipers (byakushin), cryptomerias, and Salisburias. The native restaurants facing the station are inferior to the hotel below. The wide tree-shaded avenue which leads left to the (1 M.) Hachiman Temple, comes up from the sea at the right. The great Daibutsu is at the far right of the station as one leaves it.

The *Kamakura Kaihin Hotel (Tel. add. 'Kaihin, Kamakura'), a large, modern, well-appointed, well-managed and well-liked hotel (Pl. C, 3) in a spacious park (6 acres of lawn and pine grove bordering on the ocean), is popular with foreigners and is a favorite rendezvous of motorists. Sunday dinners a specialty. Excellent food, good service. English spoken. Broad, cool verandas. Superb views. Upward of 80 rooms, many with private baths. Electric fans in summer; steam heat in winter. Long Distance Telephone. Moderate rates. Member of the Japan Hotel Association. For further information address the hotel, or Mr. R. Hamura, Managing Director.

Historical sketch. When Minamoto Yoritomo left the province of Izu, where he had been exiled by Kiyomori, and began war against the Taira, he selected for his military residence the then small village of Kamakura, which had been that of his ancestor Yoriyoshi. When he became shogun in 1192 he established the shogunate here and laid the foundation of the feudal system of gov't which was not overthrown till 1868. The hitherto nondescript town became a rich and populous city, and was the seat of gov't in E. Japan from the end of the 12th to the middle of the 15th cent. In the days of its greatest prosperity it extended all over the broad plain delimited by the Hachiman

Map: Kamakura and Neighborhood

Temple at the N., the promontory which leads into the sea at the E., the opposite one at the W., and the sea at the S. After the downfall of the Minamoto, the Fujiwara shogun and members of the Imperial family continued to reside at Kamakura: palaces, temples, residences of nobles were built in great number, and a happy, active population of over 200,000 people are said to have once lived and worked and loved where a fishing-village and a few storm-beaten temples now stand to remind the traveler of vanished glory. History records that a century after Yoritomo's death this great military capital sheltered a million people; in which case it must have been almost as large as the present Tokyo.

Besides the Minamoto, and the Hojo and Ashikaga rulers, Nichiren and other Buddhist zealots lived and worked here, and in their time passed away to join the shadowy ancestral hosts who form the prototypes of the present-day Japanese. During the Genko war (1333), Nitta Yoshisada took Kamakura, and a part of the vast city was reduced to ashes. The Ashikaga shoguns rebuilt it, and in 1349, Takauji, having appointed his son Motouji regent of the E. provinces, installed him here. But the civil wars of the following century, the substitution (in 1439) of the Uesugi for the Ashikaga as Kwan-ryo (rulers), the siege of 1454, and the great fire of 1526 laid the city in ruins. The near-by city of Odawara, which next rose as the seat of the powerful Hojo family, drew to itself large numbers of Kamakura's inhabitants, and the founding of Yedo in 1603 dealt it a blow from which it never recovered.

The *Bronze Buddha (Daibutsu; pron. die-boots'), a colossal representation of Amida (comp. p. ccii), the favorite Japanese divinity, sits unprotected in a sequestered fold of the valley (Pl. B-C, 3) 1 1/2 M. W. from the rly. station (follow the car-track to the right, then turn up at the right; 15-20 min. walk: autos, jinrikis) on an elevated site sheltered by green hills and overshadowed by lofty pines and noble cryptomerias. It is under the protection of the Kotoku-in Monastery, by whose order this notice appears on the gate: 'Stranger, whosoever thou art and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages. This is the temple of Buddha and the gate of the Eternal, and should therefore be entered with reverence.' Another notice admonishes strangers that no photographing is allowed, and that the custom of permitting travelers to climb to the Buddha's lap and be photographed standing in his hand has been discontinued.

The greenish-black statue, the most majestic among Japanese sacred effigies in bronze, and an extraordinary relic of the great past, sits on a lotus-flower, without an aureole, on a socle of crude masonry about 5 ft. high, and seems to fill the entire end of the narrow valley with its giant bulk. Though smaller than that at Nara, it excels it in artistic execution, repose, and nobility and restfulness of expression. It was cast in 1252 A.D. by Ono Goroyemon, in plates about 1 in. thick joined with such skill that a few only of the seams have been bared by the long exposure to the weather. The measurements are: height, 49 ft. 7 in.; circumference, 97 ft. 2 in.; c. of the thumb, 3 ft.; length of face, 8 ft. 5 in.; of eye, 3 ft. 11 in.; of eyebrow, 4 ft. 2 in.; of the ear, 6 ft. 6 in.; of the nose, 3 ft. 9 in.; from knee to knee, 35

ft. 8 in.; width of mouth, 3 ft. 2 in.; from ear to ear, 17 ft. 9 in. It is said that the eyes are of pure gold and that the boss on the forehead (which is 1 ft. 3 in. in diameter and represents the jewel which sheds a radiance over the universe) contains 30 lbs. of pure silver. There are 830 curls on the head, each 9 in. high, and supposed to represent the snails which, according to the legend, once crawled up the original Buddha to shelter his bald head from the burning sun! When completed, the statue (which weighs 450 tons) was inclosed in a building 50 yds. sq. with a massive roof supported by 63 immense keyaki-wood columns: this structure was destroyed by a tidal wave in 1369, as was a similar one in 1494 — since when the image has remained unhoused. Some of the foundation stones still stand. Inside the head (entrance fee, 2 sen) is a standing gilt figurine of Amida backed by a gilded mandorla. The inscriptions on the bronze tablets refer to the history of the image. The nobly proportioned head, bent forward slightly as if weighted with the wisdom of the ages, imparts the impression of profound meditation; the serene majesty of the calm, beautiful, pure Hindu type of face combines wonderful peace with complete detachment from its environment. A vague luster as of glinting gold slants out from the half-closed, all-seeing eyes, while the whole body indicates absorption, lack of tension, and the blessed peacefulness of nirvana. The mouth is closed tightly; the hands rest in the lap, the thumbs touching each other.

The Temple of Hase-no-Kwannon (Pl. B-C, 3), a dilapidated, barn-like structure founded (perhaps) by the Empress Gensho in A.D. 736, dates from the 15th cent. and stands a short way to the left of the Daibutsu, on a lofty terrace whence sweeping views of Kamakura and the surrounding country may be had. Foreigners visit it usually for a glimpse of the huge carved and gilded figure (comp. Hase-dera, Rte. 34) of the Eleven-faced Kwannon, which stands in a darksome retreat behind folding doors opened for 10-20 sen. The bronze figure facing the apartment represents Dainichi Nyorai, and was a gift to the temple by the Ashikaga shogun, Yoshimasa.

The Temple of Hachiman, on Tsurugaoka Hill (Pl. D, 2), 10 min. walk to the N. of the rly. station, and at the N. terminus of the splendid old pine-flanked avenue which leads up from the (1 M.) ocean, is one of the most important of the temples dedicated to Ojin Tenno, the Japanese Mars.

Ojin Tenno, the 15th Mikado (A.D. 201-310) was the son of the Empress Jingo, whom history enshrines as a woman distinguished for beauty, intelligence, piety, energy, and warlike spirit. When accompanying her husband, Chuai Tenno, to suppress a revolt in Kyushu, she learned that it had been instigated by the ruler of one of the Korean principalities, and forthwith she counseled the invasion of that country. The Emperor demurred, but soon thereafter died, and the Empress, keeping his death a secret, acting as a Regent for her unborn son, and accompanied by her faithful counselor, Takeshi-uchi no Sukune, or Takenouchi (the Japanese Methuselah, who died aged 306 yrs., and who was a favorite subject with the early color-print makers), fitted out a fleet, clad herself in manly armor, invaded Korea and subdued it. The popular belief is that the future war-god's pre-natal spirit animated her and enabled her to perform this great undertaking, and from this circumstance a number of temples were erected to him and in time he

became the tutelar of the Minamoto clan. In 712, the Empress Gemmei had a shrine erected to him at Usa, in Buzen, and on the occasion of its dedication 8 white banners were seen to descend from heaven! In consequence of this miraculous apparition the shrine received the title of Yahata-no-Yashiro, or 'Sanctuary of the Eight Banners,' and Ojin was honored with the canonical title of Hachiman (Chinese: 'eight banners') Dai-jingu. In later times, the Buddhist priests, who were endeavoring to amalgamate Shinto with their own creed, discovered that Ojin incorporated the eight incarnations of a Bosatsu, and thereafter Buddhists and Shintoists alike worshiped him as the God of War.

Between the yrs. 1041-1108 another Hachiman sprang up in the person of Minamoto Yoshiie, oldest son of Yoriyoshi; the father prayed to Hachiman for a brave and warlike son and was rewarded by one who gained such renown that he is remembered as one of the most valiant and dashing characters of the Middle Ages. The father named him Hachiman-Taro, or 'First-born son of Hachiman.' Numerous shrines and temples stand to both the Hachimans throughout the country, and to them youths go to pray for valor; mothers to commend their sons to their keeping in time of war; and wives to plead for the safety of their husbands. (Comp. Yawata Hachiman, Rte. 27).

The approach to the temple is unusually picturesque; the broad lotus-pond in the lower yard, near the big drum-bridge, is a glory in August. The aged icho tree, said to be over a thousand years old, near the wide steps leading to the upper terrace, is of considerable historical significance to the Japanese, since it sheltered the high-priest Kugyo, who in 1219 murdered the 3d (and last) Minamoto shogun, Sanetomo, as he was descending the steps from the temple. The present structure, in the Ryobu-Shinto style, dates from 1828 and occupies the site of one destroyed by fire. The immense wooden doors, swung on pivots let into soffits, are heavily embossed after the Moorish manner. The temple proper contains nothing to interest the traveler, but in the arcade which surrounds it on 3 sides (fee, 10 sen) is an interesting collection of ancient arms and armor, numerous relics of Ieyasu and of other shoguns; some sculptured wood images ascribed to Unkei; a curious old conch-trumpet, etc.

The *Kenchoji (Pl. D, 2), a huge, sadly time-stained temple founded by the bonze Doryu in 1253 (during the Kencho Era, whence its name), is the seat of a subdivision of the Rinzai branch of the Zen sect (p. cxcix) of Buddhists, and stands well back from the road 1/2 M. N.E. of the Hachiman Temple. It is reached by following the highway up through a deep cut in the hills, then past a line of houses and gardens amid bamboo groves, lofty trees, and a riot of semi-tropical vegetation. A big bronze bell swings in a low tower at the right of the colossal inner gate, and as one crosses the threshold of this and passes from the lively thoroughfare, vocal with children's voices, to the ancient grove of giant cryptomerias and junipers, where the whitening skeletons of the vast fanes repose amid a solemn spiritual solitude, the contrast is abrupt and complete. Save for the thin wind which sighs and moans almost ceaselessly through the lofty trees (as if lamenting the vanished splendor of shogunal days), a strange and penetrating melancholy,

accentuated by the effects of a hoary antiquity, broods above the place, and suggests the mutability of temporal things. 'The weirdness of decay manifest in the temples, the neutral tones of the old timbers, the fading spectral grays and yellows of wall surfaces, the eccentricities of the joints, the carvings of waves and dragons and demons, once splendid with lacquer and gold, now time-whitened to the tint of smoke, and looking as if about to curl away like smoke and vanish, are all very striking.'

The most conspicuous figure of the interior is a huge seated Jizo of nondescript workmanship; the faded wood panels at the right and left are well carved and are erroneously attributed to the great Hidari Jingoro. The weather-beaten bird-panels of the coffered ceiling are ascribed to Kano Motonobu, and the 100 standing figurines of Jizo, to Eshin. The brilliant sunlight of seven centuries has robbed every fitment of the interior of its youth and freshness, and the dark tiled floor adds to the drab effect. Behind the main edifice is a very large, painfully old, but withal sturdy structure, with a remarkable thatched roof and hoary timbers that appear to be held in place by sheer force of will; the interior is uninteresting. — The visitor with time to spare should not fail to climb the steepish hill (Shojoken) behind the temple and inspect the popular shrine on its summit — dedicated to Hanzobo, a mythical hobgoblin whose good offices are insured by means of the myriad paper prayers stuck flag-like in the earth along the avenue leading to the top. Proceeding to the rear (left) of the Kenchoji, we follow the picturesque path to its intersection with a cross-path, where a signboard points the way. Beyond the tea-house the lane (flanked by fine cherry trees) leads to a series of new stone steps that zigzag upward to the shrine.

Two large bronze repulsive Tengu guard the structure, which rests like an eagle's nest on a small plateau cut from the mt. side; the cap of the scarp rises steeply behind it, and into its face are let tablets referring to the history of the shrine and to the generosity of those who made it possible. The view from the atrium, over the wide and deep valley far below to the distant mts. and sea is glorious. The air is sweet with piny odors and surcharged with charm and a wondrous tranquillity. A host of lovely flowers, prominent among them cherry blossoms and azaleas, add color harmony. Bronze and stone lanterns, monuments, mortuary tablets, and much mystic paraphernalia sit about the yard, while within the building are many brass fitments, an attractive high altar, and numerous kakemono. From the end of the terrace one looks far down the wooded vale to the gigantic, weather-beaten roofs of the old Kenchoji, embowered in its dense grove, whence anon there rides up on the vagrant breeze, the deeply resonant, melodiously rich tones of its fine bronze bell — mellowed by the sum-

mer suns of 700 yrs., but still vibrant with its booming challenge to Buddhism and nirvana. At one end of the terrace stands a lighthouse that serves as a beacon to those who toil up the steep slope at night to lay their griefs before the goddess within the shrine. At the right of the top of the steps is still another shrine, dedicated to the benevolent Jizo, protector of little dead children. At the left is a converging flight of steps which leads (between twin lines of chains) over many gnarled and twisted tree roots to the crest of the hill. The view from the top, over a thousand square miles of wooded hill and valley land, of rippling sun-kissed sea, and glistening, snow-capped volcanoes, is entrancing. Out over the lowlands toward Yokohama one sees many miles of cultivated patches of various shades of green; tiny hamlets tucked away at the base of bold hills; miles and miles of roadway stretching between; and a towering mt. range on the distant skyline. Seaward the wonderful cone of Fuji, the smoking crater of Oshima, the crescent-shaped beach of Kamakura, and the gem-like island of Enoshima are the chief features in the line of vision. — Ladies usually find the descent easiest when keeping outside the chain and maintaining it as a support at the right. — Regaining the main road and following it (right) to the point where it crosses the rly., then continuing along it to a cluster of houses where (1/4 M.) two tall torii stand astride it, one enters the grove (right) which envelops

The Enkakuji ('remote temple'), a spot beautiful with flowers and lissome bamboos. The curious pagoda-like granite monument rising from a tortoise at the left of the terrace, was erected by popular subscription to commemorate the Kamakura men who perished in the Japan-Russia War. The several shallow caves behind it are not always free from large (5 ft. or more long) grayish-green venomous serpents called aodaisho, and other reptilia. — The chief object of the temple interior, a big gilt Buddha backed by a huge mandorla, is not as interesting as the Great Bell, the largest in Kamakura, which hangs in a massive, vermiculated belfry at the summit of 148 dilapidated steps leading upward from the wood torii opposite the big gate. It dates from A.D. 1201, is 4 ft. 7 in. in diameter, 6 in. thick at the lip, weighs over a ton and is 8 ft. high. In the small shrine, hard by the tower, are a number of curious paintings illustrating an ancient procession between Kamakura and Enoshima, and said to be upward of 600 yrs. old. — As indicated at p. 28, the walk hence over the highroad to Ofuna Jct. is no farther than the return to the Kamakura Station.

The Kamakura-no-miya (Pl. D, 2), a Shinto shrine erected in 1869 to the memory of the Emperor Go-daigo's son, stands about 3/4 M. N.E. of the Hachiman Temple, and is of purely historical interest. The cavern in which Oto-no-miya was imprisoned after his unsuccessful attempt to overthrow the feudal

gov't, is a dank place cut from the hill behind the shrine and defended by a fence and closed doors. Between the shrine and Hachiman, at the end (right) of a converging roadway, on a narrow terrace cut from the hill, in a small inclosure, is the neglected tomb of the great Minamoto Yoritomo. Other equally dilapidated ones stand roundabout. — Almost every grove in Kamakura contains a weather-beaten temple or shrine, and every hill and valley for miles around is heavy with the bones of dead notables. Minor temples are the Komyoji; the Kokuonji, with numerous large images ascribed to Unkei, but far more likely the work of some later artist; and the Ennoji, with a sculptured figure of Emma-o also attributed to Unkei and called 'work of the revived Unkei,' from the circumstance that the Regent of Hell is reputed to have returned the master to earth with the injunction not to come back until he had carved a good image of him. The Sixteen Pools (Ju-roku-ido), where Kobo-Daishi is said to have bathed, are not worth visiting.

A stretch of fine sanded beach (Yuigahama) lies crescent-shaped behind the hotel, and is the delight of children. When strong winds blow inland a heavy sea pounds the sand into huge dunes. In calm weather the foam-crested rollers bring in a myriad seed-clams that bury themselves with whimsical rapidity as soon as they strike the beach — which here is patrolled by men and women who pick up the many varieties of seaweed tossed up by the waves, and watch the fishing-boats come in and unload their queer cargoes of marine creatures. On this beach, in the 13th cent., the emissaries of the great Kublai Khan were beheaded as a reminder that the Nipponese did not fear a Mongolian invasion and would not pay tribute to any Mongol prince. The boys in the native town at the E. end often repair hither to fly big kites with long trailing tails. The tall pines between the beach and the hotel bend toward the N. and indicate the direction of the prevailing winds. When the sea is calm, the boat-ride across to the Dragon Cave at Enoshima (consult the hotel manager) is delightful.

Enoshima, a strikingly picturesque so-called islet of volcanic tufa about 1 1/2 M. in circumference, rising steeply to about 240 ft. above the sea, and connected with the mainland by a narrow sand-spit covered with water only at high tide, is 4 M. from Kamakura (whence it is visible across the bay), and forms one of the most popular excursions. Tram-cars (densha) leave at frequent intervals from the terminus facing the rly. station, and for some distance flank the celebrated (for beautiful views and fine surf) Shichiri ga hama, or Seven ri shore. One leaves the car at the Katase terminus (Ryukoji Temple; uninteresting), follows the main st. down at the left, and in 8 min. emerges on the causeway and bridge leading to the island. At the far end of the bridge a 3-sen toll is exacted and a ticket

handed the visitor to be returned on leaving. The immense globular baskets strewn along the beach are for imprisoning live fish. The view of Fuji-san at the right, particularly when seen dimly through a ghostly haze, is of almost uncanny beauty. The numerous tea-houses perched in commanding positions on the rocky shore are popular with the natives. A narrow main st., pieced out with stone steps and flanked by numerous byways, zigzags up the hill from the end of the bridge, and is faced by a host of attractive shops.

Enoshima has been called the City of Mother-of-Pearl. 'In every shop, behind the lettered draperies, there are miracles of shell-work for sale at absurdly small prices. The glazed cases laid flat upon the matted platforms, the shelved cabinets set against the walls, are all opalescent with nacreous things, — extraordinary surprises, incredible ingenuities; strings of mother-of-pearl fish, strings of mother-of-pearl birds, all shimmering with rainbow colors. There are little kittens of mother-of-pearl, and little foxes of mother-of-pearl, and little puppies of mother-of-pearl, and girls' hair-combs, and cigarette-holders, and pipes too beautiful to use. There are little tortoises, not larger than a shilling, made of shells, that, when you touch them, however lightly, begin to move head, legs, and tail, all at the same time, alternately withdrawing or protruding their limbs so much like real tortoises as to give one a shock of surprise. There are storks and birds, and beetles and butterflies, and crabs and lobsters, made so cunningly of shells, that only touch convinces one they are not alive. There are bees of shell, poised on flowers of the same material, — poised on wire in such a way that they seem to buzz if moved only with the tip of a feather. There is shell-work jewelry indescribable, things that Japanese girls love, enchantments in mother-of-pearl, hair-pins carven in a hundred forms, brooches, necklaces, and what-not.' — Conspicuous among these dainty trifles are large and small balloon-fish tinted and suspended on bow-shaped frames down which they travel to the delight of children; likewise strings of the greenstone that bears such a close resemblance to coarse jadeite and mentioned at p. cxxiii. Here one notes the rare and exquisitely beautiful glass-sponge called hossugai (Hyalonema Sieboldi), lacy fabrics of tenuous flint fished up as living organisms from a depth of 200 fathoms or more; and the unfailingly strange and interesting sea-horse (Hippocampus heptagonus), or Tatsu-no-otoshigo. The color tones of some of the conchylia are very beautiful, ranging from a delicate pink, through light green and orange to rich heliotrope. Prices everywhere are flexible, and foreigners are asked double and treble for everything.

The most picturesque spot on the island is the Dragon Cave, so-called because its sinuous shape (370 ft. deep) is that of the dragon which anciently devoured many of the children of the

neighboring village of Koshigoe! In the 6th cent., coincident with a violent earthquake, Enoshima is said to have emerged from the sea, and the Goddess Benten (to whom the island shrines are dedicated), descended from the clouds, married the dragon and thus put an end to his ravages. The credulous believe that a hidden passage connects the cave with Fuji-san, and that lovers who visit it together are sure to be estranged within a year. — The only path to the cavern is that which zigzags up over the summit and is called Chaya-machi from the numerous tea-houses which flank it. The touts for most of these are raucous-voiced, insistent women, who pester the traveler at every step, and essay to force cups of the detestable green tea upon whomsoever pauses for the briefest instant to enjoy the glorious view spread far below. In these cha-yas, which always throughout Japan monopolize the spots whence the finest views are obtainable, marine zoology in its most repulsive forms is cooked and served to the horde of hungry pilgrims (throngs in July-Aug.) who trudge up and down the island byways. From the summit (magnificent panoramas), steps of light gray madrepore twist steeply downward until they reach the base of the cliff (left) where they merge into undulating steps (slippery and perilous when wet) cut from the mother rock.

The view of the sea hereabout is entrancing, particularly when a whistling N. wind hurries the waves in, to burst into seething foam on the jagged rocks. A plank walk with a railing leads to the cavern mouth (admission 5 sen) where ragged, importunate men, for a 10-sen fee, disrobe, dive to the bottom of the sea, and bring up sea-snails or whatever they may have planted there at low tide. The waves rush into the cavern with a deafening roar; the rocks are of a peculiar pinkish tinge. The shrine at the back is dedicated to Benten. For a 2-sen fee a small boy with a candle leads one into a dripping, subterraneous passage called the dragon's tail. The lateral corridors are supposed to be his wings. — Returning to Katase one may vary the route by boarding the tram-car for (time 15 min.) Fujisawa and returning thence to Yokohama by rly. (Rte. 24).

From Kamakura the rly. bends broadly to the left and traverses a green, hilly, and picturesque region; the Hase-no-Kwannon Temple is seen on a terrace at the far right; at the left, near the summit of a tall wooded hill, is a curious Chinese-style garden embracing a cluster of shrines and images. As the hills close in, the view narrows and the train runs through a magnificently wooded district where the vegetation thrives with semi-tropic vigor. Every bit of the land, not too steep to afford a footing to the farmer, is under intensive cultivation; the smaller hills show garden plots up to, and over, their summits, and the brown squares of freshly-harrowed soil, awaiting the quickening seed, form color contrasts pleasing to the eye.

Many of the straw-thatched huts have rows of lilies growing on their roof ridges.

15 M. Dzushi (zoo'-she), a popular seaside resort on the W. side of the peninsula overlooking Sagami Bay, lies 1/2 M. right of the rly. amid lovely surroundings. A number of Yokohama people have seaside cottages here. The fine automobile road continues down the W. shore to Hayama ('foothill'), a delightful retreat where certain members of the Japanese nobility have country villas (besso). Excellent sea-bathing and enchanting views of Fuji-san. — The rly. now bears to the left and crosses the peninsula to the E. shore, cutting through many tall green hills flanked by valleys diapered with rice-fields. The highway at the left connects Dzushi with Kanazawa and forms a cross-country link between the road skirting the E. shore from that point and the section between Dzushi and Misaki at the extreme end of the peninsula. The two roads unite near Kikuna, and motorists from Yokohama often proceed from Kamakura to Dzushi, thence through Hayama and Akiya to Misaki, and back via Kikuna, Uraga, and Yokosuka. While the trip is beautiful at any season, it is doubly so on a clear day (all too rare in spring) when the broad stretch of sea and the mainland beyond are visible along with Fuji and other giant mts.

The tall hill seen at the right after leaving Dzushi is Futagoyama. Many splendid specimens of evergreen Coniferae, flowering Bignoniaceae, and wild vines add color to the verdant hills, whose bases are perforated with numerous artificial caves, of no great depth, that shelter tiny shrines or serve the husbandmen as storerooms. If the season be too early for the planting of rice, certain of the paddies are covered with ripening barley, wheat, peas, broad-beans, rape, mustard, onions, or radishes, and each seems to vie with the other in adding some delicate floral tint or shade of green to the lovely prospect. Dense groves of slim bamboos rise here and there like gigantic plumed buggy-whips amid the broader and taller forest trees. The occasional palmettoes, with palm-leaf fans in embryo on their low trunks, impart a sub-tropical aspect to the countryside. When their leaf-stalks decay, they leave a fibrous substance which serves the farmers as flags to frighten off corvine freebooters. Primitive well-sweeps are features of the locality. The train enters a deep cut in the hills, runs upward through a tunnel, then downward through another to the pretty bay and harbor of 18 M. Taura, separated by 4 tunnels from

19 M. Yokosuka (yo-kos-kah), a picturesque port (pop. 32,000) at the foot of a range of hills scattered over with houses, and overlooking Tokyo Bay. One of the principal gov't arsenals and naval dockyards utilizes the fine landlocked harbor (nearly a mile long), and photographing is forbidden. Visitors are debarred from the dockyards unless equipped with

a permit from the naval authorities. The Naval Artificer's School is under Imperial patronage. The harbor is usually filled with war-craft undergoing repairs, and the town is made martial by the presence of many men-of-war's men. Tourists usually come hither to visit the Grave of Will Adams, the first Englishman who came to Japan. His tomb crowns the summit of a hill, Anjin-zuka ('Pilot Hill') at the rear of the town, 1/2 M. from the station. By following the main st. past the barracks (right) one soon comes to a fork in the road and a bridge, which one crosses, then turns to the left. The narrow st. winds now to the left, now to the right, passing first a small Buddhist temple, then a Shinto shrine behind a tall torii. At the far end of the shrine inclosure, turn sharply to the right, and follow the long st. to the foot of the hill where stands a monument (Anjin Hi) to Adams unveiled in 1912. The inscription (hibun) on the face, in Chinese and Kana characters, apprises the stranger that 'the graves of Will Adams and his wife are on the summit of the hill.' The legend on the back says 'the monument was erected in 1910 by admirers of the exiled pilot'; the names are those of Baron Sufu, Governor of Kanagawa Prefecture; and Sir Claude Maxwell Macdonald (sometime) Ambassador of H.B.M.'s Gov't to Japan.

The Tombs, which stand on the crest of Tsukayama ('Tomb hill'), are reached first by following the long winding roadway, then ascending the successive flights of stone steps flanked by trees planted by foreign ambassadors. On a clear day the views over the undulating country from points near the summit are very beautiful. The woods are sweet and undefiled, a host of wild flowers grow in the underbrush, and singing birds enliven the neighborhood. The shorter of the twin tombs is that of Adams' Japanese wife. Inscriptions on the several stone lanterns at the base of the socle advise that they were erected to the memory of the pilot and his wife by the residents of Anjin-cho, Nihonbashi (Tokyo), where Adams dwelt for a time. Tea and light refreshments may be had at the custodian's house at the right near the summit. The road which descends the hill at the rear goes to Hayama.

Will Adams, a native of Kent, was sailing-master of a fleet of Dutch trading vessels which set out for the East Indies on a trading expedition in 1598. Owing to a series of misfortunes, most of the ships were wrecked, but Adams arrived at Bungo, April 19, 1600. Because of his knowledge of shipbuilding, mathematics, and foreign affairs in general; and because also he was bluff and honest and unlike the fawning Dutch traders and the shifty Jesuitical Portingalls, he became a great favorite with the Shogun Ieyasu, who by golden promises induced (and perhaps forced) him to stay in Japan, where he was appointed a teacher of mathematics and artillery; was employed as an intermediary with the foreign traders; and was presented with the fief of Hemmi-mura (Yokosuka), in Miura-gori. When Adams realized that he was held in gilded bondage, he married a Japanese woman (by whom he had a son who died young) and changed his name to Miura Anjin — the first word symbolic of the district in which his fief was located; the latter a corruption of pilot, or engineer. He died at Hirado May 16, 1620, and according to the wish ex-

pressed in his will, was buried on the hillock overlooking his estate. History and the drama have woven an appealing romance about this sad, solitary figure held in friendly captivity far from his native land, and the sympathetic mind can easily picture him standing on the summit of the hill which was later to be his grave, gazing wistfully, and with straining eyes, at the lovely sea unrolled at his feet, and beyond which were the wife and kindred and country he was nevermore to see.

The Monument to Commodore Perry (p. cclxxiv) stands on the seashore about 4 3/4 M. down the coast from Yokosuka, and 1 1/2 M. beyond the port of Uraga. A good walker can make the round trip easily in 3 hrs. and enjoy every foot of the excellent sea-road. Shops and dwellings flank it nearly the whole way, and there are numerous tea-houses. That at Otsu, midway of the towns, sits near the beach and commands beautiful views of the bay. Characteristic features of some of the wayside shops are protecting sheds which arch above the roadway like those of the rest-houses on the main roads of Java. Frequent basha go to and fro, but are usually too crowded to suit the foreigner. The jinriki fare from Yokosuka to Uraga (50 min.) is 40 sen, with an additional 20 sen to the monument. ¥1.50 for the round trip is ample. — The road from Yokosuka follows the contour of the beach; pedestrians can save a little by cutting through some of the converging lanes. At the extreme end of the town, at a precipitous bluff crowned by a small temple, the road turns abruptly to the right, leads through a tunnel, then follows the coast through a picturesque hamlet. Charming views at the left. Uraga (oo-rang'-ah), the clearance port for the junk trade to Tokyo, was visited by Perry in 1853. The two dockyards are owned by private interests. Mizuame is a local specialty. The temple is not worth inspecting. To reach the monument we continue through the town, thence up and down over a fine woods-road through a remarkably pretty country. At the far end of Kurihama village (1/4 M. inland), beyond a quaint arched bridge, a signboard points the way toward the sea. The tea-house at the corner of the road on the beach has upper rooms whence superb views over Uraga Channel and its procession of ships are to be had. The distant shores are those of Awa and Kazusa Provinces. The Monument stands in the center of a broad square inclosed by banks faced with stone; 36 gray granite posts linked by ship's anchor-chains inclose the broad plinth, whence rises the socle, then the shaft which supports the flat, gray monolith. Two vertical lines of black characters in Chinese and Japanese adorn the face of the slab, on the reverse of which, in English, is the translation: 'This Monument commemorates the First Arrival of Commodore Perry, Ambassador from the United States of America, who landed at this place July 14, 1853. Erected July 14, 1901, by America's Friend Association.' Within the inclosure are many young trees planted by friendly hands. At the right of the socle is a Kaneko pine tree, planted July 14, 1901,

by Viscount Kaneko. Another, called the Roders (sic) pine was planted on the same day by Rear-Admiral Frederick Rodgers. Modest souvenirs of the spot are the equivalve shells of the Arcidae (Arca subcrenata, Japanese, sarubo) which lie scattered in the sand along the beach.

About 10 M. farther down the coast, at the extreme S. end of the Miura-gori Peninsula, overlooking Sagami Bay, is the nondescript town of Misaki, with a Marine Biological Laboratory (Misaki Rinkai Jikken-jo) established in 1895 and containing rare and interesting specimens of marine fauna. It is a part of the excellent Imperial University at Tokyo, by which it is maintained. The highroad follows the trend of the coast and skirts the shore of Kaneda Bay (3 1/2 M. wide) between Senda-saki and Ame-saki, before turning inland and crossing the foot of the peninsula. The round trip of 20 M. is a good day's run for a jinriki shafu, with whom a bargain should be struck before starting. A native inn at Misaki provides food and lodging of a kind at reasonable prices. On June 18 each year a great festival is celebrated at the Kainan-jinja at Misaki, and a gorgeous festival-car is taken down to the beach and set afloat to the accompaniment of music and jubilation. Immense numbers of cuttlefish are captured offshore at Misaki, sometimes as many as 200,000 in a single day. — About 1 M. off the coast is the reef-rimmed island of Joga-shima, the S. point of the Miura-gori Peninsula, at the W. side of the entrance to the Gulf of Tokyo. At the W. edge of the island (reached by a ferry from Misaki), 106 ft. above high water, is the Nagatsuru Saki Lighthouse, with a fixed green light visible 9 M. at sea. — Returning from Misaki the pedestrian or the motorist will perhaps elect to follow the road leading N. to Dzushi, Kamakura, etc., along the W. shore of the peninsula. On clear days the sea-views are exquisite. The country is a succession of wooded hills with flat valleys and native hamlets between. An automobile trip for the 50 M. or more from Yokohama to Misaki and return can be arranged with the hotel manager. A car holding 6 persons can be had with a chauffeur for about ¥30. The trip is delightful throughout its length.