海路による横浜入港と横浜案内

Approach to Yokohama by Sea.

The approach to the far-famed Yedo Bay and to Yokohama city is unusually attractive. As ships from Canada and the United States steam in from the broad Pacific and prepare to round the outermost point of the Awa Peninsula on the right, the island of Oshima with its active Mihara volcano is visible on the left on a clear day. At night a deep, fiery glow is often reflected in the sky. Ships bearing in from the southwest pass between Oshima on the right and the Izu Peninsula. Sagami Bay is now at the left, and at Misaki, near the southern tip of the Sagami Peninsula, is the Marine Biological Laboratory mentioned on page 40. The lighthouse on Tsurugigasaki marks the western point of the entrance to Uraga Channel; the tower is 25 feet high, and the light, flashing white every 10 seconds with a red sector and visible 16 miles at sea, is 110 feet above high water. Ships here enter the narrow mouth of the pear-shaped bay, 28 miles long by 20 miles wide, and steam slowly toward Uraga, celebrated for all time for the beach, Kurihama, where Commodore Perry landed in 1853.

A monument marks the spot on the left and is discernible with the aid of a good glass. Travelers are cautioned against photographing, with or without telephotographic lenses, any of the objects on shore, as the Naval Dockyard at Yokosuka just beyond lies within the prohibited zone. The lighthouse, a square white tower 40 feet high and 178 feet above high water, now seen at the left stands on the wooded slope of the Kwannon-zaki headland, at the northern approach to Uraga Harbor; the light is white and fixed, with a red sector, visible 17 miles at sea.

The busy town of Yokosuka now comes into view at the left; most travelers remember the spot for its association with Will Adams, the English pilot, whose grave, mentioned on page 38, stands on a high hill behind the town. Shoals and islets mark the coast hereabout. The bold bluffs of Mississippi Bay and Treaty Point soon come into view at the left; at the northern extreme of the long line of conspicuous yellow cliffs is Mandarin Bluff, and peeping from amidst the lovely green foliage and trees which crown it are the tiled roofs of the homes of many of Yokohama's foreign merchants. If the fishing fleet, of quaint medieval-looking wood craft and picturesque sails, is on the move across the bay, the incoming traveler will not forget the sight. If the day be clear a glorious view may be had of Fuji-san, mentioned on page 45, as it rises cold and serene from the southern point of the fine Hakone Range. Stretching away toward the right, northeastward, rise the outposts of the mountains of Shimosa and Awa. A succession of blue peaks, snow-streaked in winter, trails away north until it blends with the haze or loses itself beyond the horizon.

Incoming ships describe a wide curve as they approach Yokohama, steaming up from Mississippi Bay along the Bluff before they pass the narrow entrance to the harbor.

Arrival by Sea. Ships of most of the big steamship lines tie up alongside the new Customs Pier; others anchor in the inner harbor and land passengers free. English-speaking runners from the Hotel New Grand at Yokohama, and the Imperial Hotel at Tokyo, meet incoming ships to take charge of passengers' luggage, see that it is transferred to the examination room of the customs house, pass it, sometimes more satisfactorily than the passenger can in person, and deliver it promptly at the hotel. Belated travelers who employ sampans, kobune or baby ships, from ship to shore should strike a bargain with the boatman, or sendo, before embarking; this is not recommended at night or in stormy weather. A launch is always preferable.

The customs examination is always prompt, courteous and lenient. Japan welcomes tourists and begins to show it the moment they reach the country. At the shore end of the long concrete pier one notes the former Foreign Settlement with its hotels, banks, steamship offices, commercial houses, and other establishments at the left, and the Japanese city at the immediate right.

Motor-cars from the Hotel New Grand in Yokohama and the Imperial Hotel at Tokyo await the arrival of ships, as do many taxicabs. The customary fare from the pier to the Hotel New Grand, or the Railway Station, is about 1 yen, subject to change, for one person and hand luggage. Both hotels maintain fleets of good, clean American cars, usually better than outside cars and no more expensive, with trustworthy drivers, for the convenience of guests. Guests can always be sure of having a special car and hotel runner awaiting them if they telephone or wire ahead. There are taximeters, and fixed rates. The cars are recommended for the many cheap and delightful excursions possible from Yokohama and Tokyo. Consult the hotel manager.

Jinrikis ply for hire, but where there are two or more in a party, and hand luggage, they are more expensive and not as satisfactory as motor-cars. The present fare from the pier to the hotel or railway stations is 60 to 70 sen, subject to change. Jinrikimen throughout Japan are often unwilling to abide by the schedule fixed by the municipality, and it is always prudent to reach an agreement with them before employing them. Jinrikis are fast being replaced by taxis.

Railway Stations. The Yokohama Railway Station is about one mile to the right of the Landing Pier; frequent trains depart for Tokyo and Nikko to the east, and Kyoto and Kobe to the west. Travelers with hand luggage only, bound for Tokyo, usually proceed to the nearer Sakuragi-cho Station, pronounced sah-koo-rah-gee-choh, where they can find an electric train of the Imperial Government Railways about every eight minutes, bound for Tokyo, on a fast service.

No trunks are checked. Trains from this, as well as the other station, center at the Tokyo Central Station. The electric trains between Yokohama and Tokyo are used more by residents than are the steam trains.

Hotels. Hotel New Grand, cable address Newgrand, Yokohama, is a new, thoroughly modern, splendidly equipped, ably managed, five-story steel-framed concrete fire- and earthquake-proof structure, planned and conducted on American lines, with 120 well-appointed, large, cool, airy rooms, each with private bath and all the fitments of the best American hotels, accommodating 180 persons. It faces the Bund, Kaigan-dori, the new park and the sea at No. 10 Yamashita-cho, about 1000 feet northwest of the site of the former Grand Hotel and one mile from the Customs Pier. It is already a famous resort for tourists and one of Japan's newest and most sumptuous hostelries.

The Main Dining-Room, or Temple Hall, seating 180, is constructed and decorated in the ancient Fujiwara style of the middle of the eighth century, with great beams and temple pillars, brass and copper fitments, and many delightful attributes of that far-off Buddhistic epoch. Superb sea views open from the front windows. There are six additional private dining rooms, a Grill Room seating 100, a great auditorium convertible into a theatre, ballroom, and banquet room, with seating for 1000, and one of the largest, handsomest, and most attractive lobbies in the Empire. The great square pillars of this exceptionally luxurious lounge extend clear through to the roof and render the building proof against any earthquake.

In the great banquet room delightful dances are staged, particularly when round-the-world liners are in port. At this time the elite of Yokohama and diplomatic Tokyo gather here, and the traveler has the opportunity of enjoying functions unique and brilliant in character. It is the favorite meeting place for high government officials for banquets, parties of various kinds, and Japanese weddings in high life. It is the center for the social and intellectual life of the port. Many special amusements and entertainments are arranged to please guests. A Filipino orchestra, one of the best in Japan, provides music at meals.

The spotless kitchen with its gas ranges is in charge of a famous French chef noted for his culinary attainments. Americans and continentals alike find the food delicious and satisfying.

There is a spacious roof garden from which one can command extensive seascapes and unforgettable views of Fuji and the distant Japanese Alps.

The library contains a special collection of books on Japan of interest and value to travelers.

Good laundry work is done in the special laundry on the hotel premises, where there is also a valet service for men and women.

In the arcade on the Grill Room floor there are numerous representative shops where silks, curios, books, and other goods are on sale.

The hotel rates are no higher than those of less desirable hotels in the Far East, and are lower than those of many American hotels of the same high class. For the convenience of guests, both the American and European plans are in vogue. Single rooms only are from 5 yen a day and up; double rooms from 8 yen and up, European plan. American plan rates begin at 12 yen a day and up for single rooms with board; double rooms range from 15 to 30 yen. Special rates are available for a protracted stay. Meals only are breakfast 1.50 yen, tiffin 2 yen, dinner 3 yen, and business lunch 1.50 yen. A la carte service in the Grill Room is at moderate prices.

For special rates, descriptive booklets, and other information, write or telegraph K. Doi, Managing Director; Alphonse Dunand, Manager; or S. K. Kawana, Room Clerk.

Information and Travel Bureaus: Thomas Cook & Sons are in the Hotel New Grand. The Japan Tourist Bureau is in the Sakuragi-cho Railway Station. For special information about Yokohama write to Chuichi Ariyoshi, Esquire, Mayor, or to his willing, helpful, thoroughly trustworthy English-speaking secretary, H. H. Morita, care of the Yokohama City Office. For information about Japan in general, address the Japan Tourist Bureau.

Banks where traveler's cheques, letters of credit and similar instruments can be negotiated, and money exchanged, include the American Bank, the National City Bank of New York, successors to the International Banking Corporation, at 74 Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku, with branches in all the chief cities of the Orient, and the Yokohama Specie Bank Ltd., at 83 Minami Nakadori, 5-chome, widely known, popular, and with many branches. The traveler is strongly recommended to transact business through these strong and thoroughly safe banks rather than through any of the many smaller institutions. In exchanging money the stranger will be certain to get fair treatment and the correct rate of the day. Among the best-known English banks are the Hongkong & Shanghai Banking Corporation and the Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China, both with branches in the port.

Steamship Offices and Agencies. The Canadian Pacific Steamship Office, telegraph address Citamprag, is on the Bund near the Hotel New Grand.

The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, telegraph address Yusen, is at Kaigan-dori 14, san-chome. The P. & O. agents are Mackinnon, Mackenzie & Co., Ltd., 1c Yamashita-cho. The Dollar Steamship Company and the Admiral Oriental Line are at 50 Yamashita-cho. For other lines consult the directory.

Clubs. Yokohama United Club is on the Bund. The Rotary Club meets at the Hotel New Grand. For the addresses of other clubs, the Y.M.C.A., the Y.W.C.A., the various churches, missions, chambers of commerce, and similar bodies, consult the directory.

Golf links are at Negishi and at Hodogaya. The hotel manager will arrange for their use by visitors.

Ambassadors or ministers and consuls are accredited by many foreign countries to Japan; the embassies and legations are in Tokyo. Consuls of various nations have offices in Yokohama. For addresses consult the hotel manager or the directory.

Bookstores. The best among the several bookstores are K. Yoshikawa at Bentendon and the Hotel New Grand Arcade, and Maruzen on Benten-dori.

Curios and Art Antiques. Samurai Shokai, Honcho-dori, itchome, is the best of its class in the port. The proprietor and manager, Mr. Y. Nomura, who speaks English, is widely known and trusted as an art connoisseur, and is unreservedly recommended to anyone interested in the real fine arts of Japan.

Silks, embroideries, and similar goods are available at the Nozawaya Department Store, Theatre Street. This old-established, reputable silk house is known to travelers for the good quality of its wares, fair dealing, and moderate prices. English is spoken. Its patrons are all the best foreigners in the city. It carries a desirable stock of silk goods of all kinds, including kimonos, haori, happi coats, and underwear for men and women. The dressmaking department can be of particular value to ladies who desire special silk things made beautifully and promptly to order. S. Takaoka, manager, speaks English.

Men's silk shirts, pyjamas, and similar articles are handled by Nozawaya's Shirt Making Department, the best and most reliable in the port, with reasonable prices and excellently finished work, ready-made and made to order.

Nurseries and Flower Displays. The Yokohama Nursery Co., Ltd., 21-35 Nakamura, Bluff, where English is spoken, has extensive terraced gardens commanding fine views and containing many beautiful specimens of the varied Japanese flora. The seasonal flower displays constitute one of the sights of Yokohama and should not be missed: magnificent exhibits of cherry blossoms, azaleas, wistaria, peonies, lilies, orchids, chrysanthemums, lotuses, and other flowers; a fine collection of quaint dwarfed trees, fantastic pines, gnarled maples, and potted plants for sale at reasonable prices. The cut flowers and growing plants make desirable additions to hotel rooms.

The 3000 cherry trees sent in 1912 to Washington, D.C., and those for General U. S. Grant's Tomb were packed here, and from here go many of the fine maples that decorate Californian gardens. Travelers desirous of possessing a Japanese garden of their own can obtain plans, photographs, ideas, stone lanterns, bulbs, and albums of painted flowers complete as to genera and species as far as they relate to Japan. The Peony Garden maintained by the company at Kamata is referred to in Route 9. Branches are in New York City, London, and other places. Travelers who purchase Japanese trees for shipment home should remember that they are accustomed to much rain and require water more often than trees of some other climates.

Mr. S. Suzuki, the erudite Managing Director of the company, is the greatest living authority on the flora of Japan and adjacent countries. The arborist, botanist, or lay traveler intent on securing specimens of the wonderfully rich Japanese flora, or the tourist desirous of taking home seeds of Japan's astonishingly varied flowers and vegetables, most of which do well in the United States, will find them at the nursery, the largest and most complete of its kind in the Far East. Dahlia lovers will be interested in the bizarre colors and exquisite forms which Dahlia variabilis attains, blooming twice a year, in the generously moist Japanese climate. Bulbs are at moderate prices. Seeds of the lovely chrysanthemums for which Japan is famous are also available.

For full information, prices, a handsomely illustrated catalogue in colors, and similar material, address the Yokohama Nursery Co., Ltd., Yokohama, M. Shimamura, General Manager.

Porcelain. Shops for the sale of cheap porcelain are scattered all over the city, but as the cost of transportation home on cheap ware is the same as on the finest, the latter is usually the most satisfactory to buy. The Makuzu Kozan kilns, where Makuzu porcelain, one of the most famous of the Japanese wares, is made, lie in the northwest suburb at 1631 Minamiota-machi in the Ota-mura district, two miles from the Grand Hotel, and should be visited by anyone interested in one of Japan's finest arts. The traveler is shown the workshops where potters sit at primitive wheels shaping the clay; the rooms where decorations are added; the kilns where the pieces are fired; and extensive showrooms where many beautiful specimens of the ware, no two alike, are exhibited. Visitors are welcome whether or not they buy; fixed prices are marked plainly, and, considering the rare beauty of the objects and the fame of the potter, are notably moderate.

The original factory was established in Kyoto in a district known as Makuzu-ga-hara, from which the pottery, transferred to Yokohama in 1871, derived its name. The original artist, Miyagawa Kozan, son of the celebrated Kyoto potter Chobei, who worked at Gion and produced a faience known to porcelainists as Makuzu-yaki, is a member of the Board of Imperial Household Artists, and with his son Miyagawa Hanzan is ranked as one of the finest ceramists Japan has produced. The products of the factory are porcelains proper, and the pieces suggest in their delicate beauty the monochromes and polychromes of the Chinese Kang-hsi and Yung-cheng kilns.

Jars, vases, bowls, plaques, quaint teapots, and a variety of beautiful objects skillfully decorated with flowers, bamboos, or other designs in harmonious tints showing just beneath the glaze are specialties. Along with these are produced some of the finest blue-and-white pieces the collector will meet in Japan. Equally famous are the apple-green glazes so admired by American collectors. To Kozan, or Shozan, Mr. Brinkley, in Oriental Series, volume 8, page 418, gives credit for inaugurating Chinese fashions in Japan and setting other Japanese artists to reproducing copies of Chinese masterpieces in Japan. Kozan's best work ranks with choice Kang-hsi specimens. Travelers will do well to have their purchases for foreign shipment packed at the pottery, where great care is given them, then delivered to the shipping agent. Satsuma ware, mentioned on page 254, can be bought to better advantage in Kyoto, where it is made.

The climate is mentioned on page 66. The city is healthy. Although epidemics sometimes gain a foothold for a brief time, foreigners seem not to be troubled by them. Stringent health measures are enforced by the authorities.

The drinking water comes from near the headwaters of the Sagami River, about 25 miles from the port. There is a reservoir at Noge-yama. While the local authorities are thoroughly alive to the value of pure drinking water and spare no effort or expense to provide an unpolluted and adequate supply, the intake is far away and some country people, innocent of ideas of hygiene, do not always realize the consequences of carelessness. Hence the traveler will be wise to drink the water only after it has been boiled. A yet safer plan is to drink bottled water known to be pure.

The best, most popular, and most widely used bottled water is Clifford Wilkinson Tansan Water, bottled at the Takarazuka Spring near Kobe. See the special references on pages 74 and 630. Like all good things it is often counterfeited, and the traveler is recommended to demand the original and see that the label carries the Wilkinson name. It is the only genuine.

Books on Yokohama. The best descriptive book on the port, a valuable addition to any library, is Yokohama: The Gateway to the Orient, beautifully printed and illustrated and filled with valuable information relating to the city and its environs. It is published by the City of Yokohama under the auspices of Mayor C. Ariyoshi and is free on request to him or to Mr. T. Isaka, President of the Yokohama Chamber of Commerce.

Situation, History, and Character of the City. Yokohama, pronounced yoh-koh-hah-mah, one of the most important, picturesque, and cosmopolitan of Japanese cities, largest in Kanagawa Prefecture and sixth in size in the Empire, stands on the main island of Hondo 18 miles southwest of Tokyo, of which it is the principal port of entry, in Musashi Province, at latitude 35 degrees 26 minutes 53 seconds north and longitude 139 degrees 38 minutes 38 seconds east of Greenwich. It occupies a commanding position on a V-shaped plain about half a mile wide at the mouth of a hill-flanked valley that opens into Yokohama Bay, a small recess on the west side of the greater Tokyo Bay.

The city extends back westward toward the low semicircle of hills for about three miles, gradually narrowing to a quarter mile. The hill at the northwest is called Ise-yama, from Ise Province, where the original of the Daijingu Shrine that crowns it is located; and that at the southeast, the northeastern corner of the Bluff, is Camp Hill, from the circumstance that a camp of British soldiers once stood just above the site of the present Consulat de France. The inner harbor is about 37 miles from Cape King, the nearest point of land on the Pacific Ocean. The bay is here 12 miles wide. The city derives its name from yoko, side, and hama, beach. Population 550,000, of whom 6,000 are foreigners.

Yokohama has expanded so fast that the valley has failed to hold it, so tunnels have been driven through the hills and broad colonies established on the other side. This is noticeably the case at the southwest toward Mississippi Bay. A decade or so ago unfragrant rice paddies occupied the land where the now populous and popular Makado is, and Hommoku and Mr. Hara's charming private garden were isolated resorts. Tramlines with a good service now run to and beyond these points. Toward the southwest congested suburbs have been formed in the numerous draws and ravines that gash the hills, and seen from a high point on the Bluff they impart the aspect of busy mining towns.

The Bluff, which was partly destroyed by the earthquake, is gradually being reconstructed to correspond with the description that follows, written before the catastrophe. Many foreigners who formerly had delightful homes in this sightly and favored spot have rebuilt them at Negishi, where there is a fine race course, the first ever constructed in Japan, golf links, magnificent sea views, and superb views of Fuji. Better motor roads and motorcars have brought this more distant but always popular suburb within easy reach of the Settlement and the native city.

Yokohama is linked to Tokyo by the Imperial Government Railway, three interurban electric railways, and a paved automobile road. Not a few Yokohama merchants have their homes in Tokyo or in one of the several charming towns between the two cities.

Historical Sketch. Specimens of ancient wares exhumed from burial mounds in the neighborhood of Yokohama indicate that wandering fishermen occupied the spot more than 3000 years ago. It was perhaps definitely settled by Japanese in the 14th century, after the destruction of the shogunal stronghold at Kamakura by Nitta Yoshisada and the downfall of the Hojo Regents in 1334. It was an obscure fishing village of approximately 150 families when Commodore Perry, mentioned on page 274, appeared in the bay in 1853 and demanded that his message of amity from President Millard Fillmore be received, and that Japan be opened to the commerce of the world.

The treaty which resulted from this diplomatic mission was the first ever made between the Japanese Empire and a Western Power, and in light of subsequent developments is of peculiar interest.

In July 1859 Yokohama was officially opened as a treaty port and was set aside for foreigners as a place of residence. No one could step outside the limits of the port without a passport issued by the Imperial Japanese Government. The first commercial house is said to have been opened in 1859 by a British subject, Mr. William Keswick, who died in 1912 and to whom is also credited the first organized commerce between Japan and England. The first English newspaper was established in 1861, and the first post office opened in 1871. On September 12, 1872, the first railway line began to operate between Yokohama and Tokyo, and soon thereafter the port began to assume somewhat the aspect of a city. The proud, fierce-visaged, sworded and bepistoled daimyo who formerly strode through the streets began to be conspicuous by their absence, and in due course they vanished into an echoless past.

In 1899 foreign treaties were revised, extraterritorial clauses were expunged, the former Foreign Settlement reverted to the Japanese Government, and the foreigners living there, or coming later, passed under the jurisdiction of the native courts instead of being tried by their respective consuls in cases of infraction of laws. With their subjection to the judiciary of the Empire, foreigners were granted many more privileges. Passports, with all their troublesome preliminaries, were abolished, and the entire country was opened to foreign travel. Foreigners still refer to the quarter in which they do business as the Settlement, differentiating it from the Japanese Quarter. The names Treaty Point, Mississippi Bay, Perry's flagship having been the Mississippi, and similar names are relics of the first American arrival. The opening of the port to foreign trade is annually celebrated by Japanese and foreigners alike; the streets are decorated with flags and bunting, the various nationalities fraternize, and complete amity and goodwill mark the joyous occasion.

From the status of a miserable fishing village, Yokohama grew during the fleeting years into a beautiful and prosperous city. One of the first great port works undertaken by the new municipal government was the building of the breakwater that formed Yokohama harbor and protected it from the sea. A bit of history pleasing to the American mind attaches to it. In 1863, when foreigners were still more or less unwelcome, Mori Motonori, an overzealous daimyo of Choshu, Nagato, ordered his retainers to fire on foreign vessels passing through the Shimonoseki Strait. Ships of the United States, Holland, and France happened to be in the line of fire, so a remonstrance resulted from these countries and the celebrated Shimonoseki Expedition entered history.

The three powers mentioned, and England, dispatched a joint squadron to the spot; the forts were bombarded and their defenders scattered. An indemnity was demanded and paid. In due time the United States returned its share intact, and the grateful Japanese constructed the Yokohama breakwater, completed in 1896, with the money.

In all its history Yokohama had been singularly free from seismic catastrophes, but on September 1, 1923, an earthquake originating in the Pacific Ocean destroyed the greater part of the foreign section of the port along with the Japanese town and created almost equal havoc in Tokyo. As in San Francisco, the resulting fire, which burned for three days, did the greatest damage. In the earthquake area 200,000 persons perished, one and one-half million were made homeless, 225,000 houses were destroyed, and property loss to the value of five billion yen resulted. The great nations of the world responded quickly to the call for help, and in due course the American people sent ten million dollars as a gift to the Japanese.

Bowed but not broken, and learning from the Tokyo Seismological Observatory, described as the most advanced and scientifically accurate institution of its kind in the world, that 50 or 75 years would elapse before there would arise even the possibility of a recurrence of the earthquake, the Japanese took heart and began at once the construction of a city that would in every way be finer, more picturesque, and more attractive than the old one. With Chicago's experience after its great fire in mind, they determined to make the earthquake a civic blessing rather than a calamity. They realized also that even a devastating earthquake could not deprive the port of its magnificent setting, its proximity to Tokyo, the great capital, and to delightful nearby resorts such as Miyanoshita, Atami, Kamakura, and similar places. Possessing as mayor, and therefore head of the reconstruction program, the Honorable Chuichi Ariyoshi, a man of boundless energy, extraordinary foresight, progressive ideals, high principles and irreproachable integrity, and a civic organization prompt to act upon his suggestions, the people turned to the task of bringing Yokohama back to its envied position as the Great Gateway to the Orient, a sort of Far Eastern Plymouth Rock or stepping-stone for the army of tourists who annually pass through its friendly portals.

The reconstruction program called for great foresight and the wise expenditure of many millions of yen. Chief among the improvements were the extension of harbor limits from two square miles to five square miles, a new and colossal outer breakwater, a sheltered canal to connect the port with Tokyo and the many waterways intersecting that ancient metropolis, an enlargement of the Yokohama canal system in width, length, and depth, a better, larger, and more dependable water supply, the construction and extension of electric tramlines to connect the port with outlying places, several huge, modern, fire- and earthquake-proof municipal and commercial buildings, a new railway station costing one and a half million yen, and many minor enterprises.

An area of 500 acres is being reclaimed for factory sites to be offered to manufacturers on particularly easy terms, adding to the already 6000 factories that function in the port and confirming it as the industrial center of the Orient. The first great foreign company to take advantage of the opportunity was the Ford Motor Company of Detroit, whose great assembling plant already excites the unfailing interest of the inhabitants.

The first construction work after the earthquake was devoted to rebuilding the docks and harbor edifices to facilitate shipping. Always with the comfort of tourists in mind, the energetic mayor, a faithful friend to foreigners, then turned his attention to the erection of a magnificent hotel that would house them and cater to their wants during their stay in Yokohama. Thus the Hotel New Grand, a quasi-municipal organization that cost a million yen to build and an additional one million two hundred thousand yen to furnish, came into being, completed in November 1927, to surprise the world traveler by its sumptuous modernity. On April 1, 1927, the adjoining towns of Tsurumi, Kanagawa, and Hodogaya, and the villages of Shirozata, Okuna, Asahi, Okagawa, Kusaka, Byobugaura, and Nishiya were made part of the city, thus doubling its area and expanding its corporate limits from 11.8 to 51.7 square miles.

The Present City. To the casual eye the Japanese section is much as it always has been, with its multiplicity of fascinating streets thronged with happy, busy people and flaming with color. Here and there, with greater frequency than before, rises a superb concrete or gray granite bank, office, or municipal building, advertising on its face that it is fire and earthquake proof. Whatever happens in Yokohama in the future, earthquake fatalities will be few and casualties from fire fewer; for the new buildings will refuse to be shaken down or to burn. The superb new Prefectural Building near the Hatoba, or steamer landing, is one of the finest and solidest structures in the Empire, and many others are patterned after it. The Standard Oil Building, the several steamship offices, the different clubs, banks and counting houses, and the new Yokohama Railway Station look as if no force could injure them. The great steel and concrete structures built on American lines that stood the test in Tokyo during the earthquake taught the Yokohama people a lesson they are profiting by.

One notes a diminution in the number of jinrikis that formerly swarmed through the port. The majority of jinriki-shafu are old men, and their vehicles are fast being run out by taxis and other motorcars. These flash through the streets in ever increasing numbers and impart a decided Occidental note to them. Fine granite bridges have replaced many of the wooden structures that formerly spanned the canals separating the Settlement from transpontine Yokohama. The port now contains nearly 600,000 inhabitants and over 100,000 houses. It also contains a big Silk Conditioning House, a Clearing House through which the 700 million yen worth of exports - raw silk, silk goods, hemp braid, fish oil, lily bulbs, cotton crepe, toys, canned crab, refined sugar to China, electric light bulbs, and many sundries - and the 800 million yen of imports, the foreign trade of the island, pass. The largest, best, and most popular internationally famous nursery in Japan, the Yokohama Nursery Co., Ltd., is located here.

From its extensive and highly interesting gardens go many of the fine dwarfed and other plants that grace landscape gardens in all parts of the world. Upward of 5000 ships of many nations, 1000 of them from North America, anchor in the harbor each year, and the number grows steadily.

The former Bund has been greatly amplified, and the filled foreshore converted into a handsome park with many lovely trees and flowers. The bridge that once spanned the Creek at the rear of the old Grand Hotel, at the foot of Camp Hill, has been moved nearer to the sea and now serves as a busy viaduct to an entirely new and populous village, Shin-Yamashita-cho, which stretches from Yokohama to Hommoku along the base of the yama. Its wide, attractive streets, flanked by shops and dwellings, occupy land reclaimed from the sea since the earthquake. Old residents returning to Yokohama after an absence are surprised at the presence of this complete and busy settlement.

The maritime expression of Yokohama is very pleasing to strangers. The coming and going of the wonderfully picturesque fishing fleet, the private yachts and the big ocean liners; the thunderous salutes of incoming or outgoing warships; the music from ships' bands and bugles; the skirl of bagpipes from British dreadnoughts, or the battering of paint-chipping hammers on their iron sides; the musical bells that mark time through the silent watches of the night; and the whirring of winches on cargo boats are all familiar sounds, for the balconies of some houses are less than 150 feet from the water, and the sea is as much to Yokohama as the land. Many foreign residents take their pleasure on the water, and a small squadron of dainty launches and houseboats usually rides at anchor just off the Bund. Here hydro-aeroplanes are demonstrated, and many boat races are pulled off.

When the spring tides recede, the traveler may witness the curious spectacle called shioki-gari, or picking shellfish at ebb tide. Hundreds of men, women, and children, bare-legged with sleepy babies carried pick-a-back, dig vigorously for modest clams that attain a fat maturity in the mud of the ocean floor. When the season passes, the diggers retreat to the creek and there, on any warm day when the tide is running out, may be seen waist-deep in the stream, clawing the sandy bottom for the small survivors that have escaped them outside.

When a strong typhoon thrashes the port, huge waves dash over the sea wall and, besides drenching the Bund and the houses facing it, strew it with seaweed and jellyfish. The shallow water near the shore is a favorite resort with women harboring suicidal intentions; stones piled into the sleeves of their kimonos usually help them to oblivion.

A multiplicity of canals, hori, crossed by 40 or more picturesque bridges, wind through the city, making islands of portions of it and serving as fluvial thoroughfares for fleets of junks, fishing smacks, lighters, launches, and sampans. The wide Yato Creek, which separates the top of the Settlement from the Bluff and merges with the sea near the Grand Hotel, was dug originally for purposes of isolation. Within the confines formed by the Yato Bridge and Honcho Rokuchome at the northwest, and between Minato-cho and the Bund, the area of about one square mile is known to the Japanese as Kwannai, within the barriers, because in former times a guarded palisade was set up at every approach to the enclosure where the foreigners dwelt and beyond which they were permitted to wander only when provided with a passport. The one-time Foreign Settlement is officially called Yamashita-cho, or Under-Hill district.

The chief streets of the quarter bear two names, one used by Japanese and the other by foreigners. Honcho-dori is Main Street; Mizumachi-dori, Water Street, formerly faced the sea, as Kaigan-dori, or the Bund, does now. This attractive, well-swept boulevard, about half a mile long through the Settlement, flanks the bay from Yato Creek at the east to the Customs Pier at the northwest, and is strikingly picturesque at twilight on a summer day when East Indians, Chinese, and other brilliantly clad Orientals, who form mosaics in the cosmopolitan population, stroll out to enjoy the seascape and the cool breezes blowing in from the Pacific. A number of steamship offices flank the Bund and are distinguishable by the house flags flying above them. Directly back of the Settlement, within the converging angles of Hommura Road, Kaga-cho, and the creek, is the Chinese Quarter, described by the source as a meek, denless copy of San Francisco's vermilion district, without opium, fan-tan, or societies for mutual violence.

The bizarre and pungent stenches and the jarring music which prevail there usually keep tourists out.

The narrow Nippon-Odori, which runs across the lower edge of the Settlement from the Custom House to the Public Garden, forms a sharp dividing line between the foreign and native quarters. The most popular and picturesque streets of the latter are Benten-dori, Honcho-dori, and the narrow but often brilliant lanes radiating from them. To the southwest of this section is Transpontine Yokohama, a densely populated, rapidly growing native quarter linked to the center by six bridges. The heaviest intercourse between the two regions passes over the new Kaneno-hashi, beyond which is the well-known Isezakicho, Theatre Street, a kaleidoscopic thoroughfare attractive to tourists because of the seething life and color of its myriad shops and theatrical showplaces.

The Bluff, Yamate-cho, a wide elevated area 150 feet above the sea on the south side of the Settlement, crowned by many pretty dwellings of foreign residents and crossed and recrossed by charming flower-decked lanes, is one of the handsomest residential sites in the Far East. A number of steep, winding roadways lead to it from the creek marking the southwest border of the commercial town, the most popular being Yato Zaka, or Camp Hill Road, which passes along the rear of the Grand Hotel and flanks the French consulate. The first Americans to set foot on the Bluff were Mr. S. Wells Williams, an enthusiastic botanist and interpreter for the Perry Expedition to Japan, and Dr. Morrow of the S.S. Susquehanna of Perry's squadron. Slipping away from their shipmates and eluding the Japanese authorities, they climbed the hill on March 14, 1854, and in their ramble across it discovered two new ferns and a previously unknown variety of clematis later named Clematis Williamsii by Asa Gray.

The northeastern edge of the Bluff falls steeply to the sea, and from the shaded road crossing it one may enjoy panoramas of extraordinary beauty and extent: views of junk-flecked sea, restful towns, green mountains, and the always adorable Fuji-san. Few spots in the world are more charmingly situated or more generously bedecked with flowers. Long flights of crumbling stone steps connect lower byways with upper roads and are often overhung with hosts of semitropical flowers and flowering trees. Huge retaining walls of madrepore hold many houses and gardens in place, and in their interstices grow a wealth of microscopic flora and graceful ferns. Here one may see the panicled white flowers of Isopyrum japonicum and those of the unique Kerria japonica, named for William Kerr, a British gardener, cultivated in Europe and America under the erroneous name Corchorus japonicus.

The Public Garden is beautifully laid out. In April the lane known as Negishi-machi is a bower of cherry blooms. The Foreign Cemetery, founded in 1858, contains upward of 2000 foreign dead. The billowy hills stretching inland from the Bluff are flecked with wild flowers and interlaced with footpaths, with magnificent views of Fuji and the sea, through which it is a delight to wander. The region round the Race Course is called Negishi and is dotted with villas of foreign residents. The tramline running through a tunnel under the Bluff goes to Hommoku and beyond.

Strangers may wish to remember that in Yokohama and other Japanese ports, houses in the foreign quarter, except hotels, are spoken of by number rather than by the names of occupants. Numbers do not necessarily follow any logical order of succession, and there are often several houses with the same number.

Noge-yama, the high bluff at the right, eastern side of the port, is a favorite place of residence for many Japanese merchants of the city, who have pretty bungalows in attractive gardens. It is noted for a handsome park and many cherry trees. When these are at their best in April, many people go there to enjoy the sight and to worship at the several shrines: one, the Ise Daijingu, dedicated to the Imperial Ancestors; a Buddhist temple dedicated to Fudo; and another to Kobo Daishi. Superb panoramas over the city and the sea are visible from the hill slopes.

On the opposite side of Noge-yama, on a hill called Kamon-yama, noted for its beautiful double cherry blossoms, stands a bronze statue of Lord Ii Kamon-no-Kami, erected by the men of the Hikone Clan on the semi-centennial of the opening of Yokohama to foreign trade. It is of peculiar interest to foreigners because of the significance attaching to the memory of the great man it commemorates.

Before the final downfall of the Tokugawa feudal order and the conclusion of the treaty with the United States, intense anti-foreign feeling existed. The Court was torn by indecision, and rival factions fought strenuously for supremacy, one for excluding the so-called barbarians and hideous aliens, the other for admitting them. Lord Ii, daimyo of Hikone in Omi Province, an able, far-seeing statesman and bitter opponent of the powerful anti-foreign faction headed by the Prince of Mito, was elected to the post of Prime Minister, Tairo or great elder, of the Tokugawa Shogunate. One of his first acts was to conclude the treaty submitted on behalf of the United States by Townsend Harris, and by so doing he sealed his own fate. He was assassinated by 18 Mito ronin on March 3, 1860, near the Sakurada Gate of the Imperial Palace at Tokyo. Warned of danger and urged to strengthen his escort, he replied that no force of guards could control the hand of fate or baffle resolute assassins, and that the number of the Tairo's escort was fixed by a rule that a man in such a high position must respect.

One assassin was killed in the struggle; one who cut off the Tairo's head and fled with it was disabled by his wounds and committed suicide; three fell wounded; eight surrendered; and only five escaped. When the statue was erected, bitter feeling revived among certain statesmen who believed Lord Ii was a traitor to his country. Soon afterward the anniversary of his assassination was, on the initiative of his enemies, celebrated with solemnity; the Mito ronin were held up as martyrs to the cause, and pamphlets were surreptitiously placed in many public schools in May 1912 to justify the murder and murderers. They were promptly withdrawn by the authorities, and the monument still stands to the memory of an able patriot who foresaw Japan's greatness and died prematurely because of his belief in it.

Kanagawa, the original foreign treaty port, incorporated with Yokohama in 1901 and now merely a station on the railway to Tokyo, is visible to the north from Noge-yama but is of little interest to foreigners. The jinrikisha was invented here in 1870.

Many delightful walks and automobile rides are possible from Yokohama, and many weeks would be required to explore all the attractive paths and roads leading countryward. The footpaths over the surrounding hills are legion and at certain points afford incomparable views of Fuji and the sea. The people one meets are polite, friendly, and helpful, and the district is as safe as one's own home. The hotel automobiles and their English-speaking drivers are trustworthy, and by employing them and conferring with the hotel manager one can visit the chief beauty spots in the neighborhood expeditiously and cheaply.

Hommoku, Mississippi Bay, and Negishi, about five miles, make a delightful day excursion. Cross the bridge near the sea at the left of the Hotel New Grand, turn sharply to the right, and ascend the winding road to the summit of Camp Hill. The right fork here passes the cemetery, goes to the Yokohama Nursery, and thence on to Negishi. The road at the left, straight on, goes to the far end of the Bluff, which here falls steeply to the sea and affords one of the most charming views anywhere on the Japanese coast. The wide harbor, like a pool filled with toy ships at one corner of great Tokyo Bay, lies far below, half encircled by giant breakwaters which from this height resemble thin but exaggerated calipers. A thousand square miles of blue sea washing the Awa Peninsula to the north and Sagami to the west stretch to the limitless Pacific, where the smoking cone of Mihara-yama may be seen on a clear day, or as a ruddy beacon on a dark night.

Descending to the lower level one threads the native settlement of Makado, with Hommoku at the left, and proceeds to the native village of Negishi at the foot of the far Bluff, above which, crowning the Bluff, is the foreign settlement of the same name, flanking the Race Course and two and a half miles from the Hotel New Grand. Many foreign residents have handsome villas here. The road following the sea through the native village leads to Sugita.

The views in retrospect as one ascends the wide and rather steep roadway to the turn of the hill are impressively beautiful. The precipice drops sharply to a little plain laid out in tiny gardens, intensively cultivated and idealized by many flowering trees and vines. Early in March every inch of tillable space is carpeted with green, and by April the cherry trees are blooming and the garden truck is almost ready for harvesting. A continuous line of humble dwellings with gabled or curved roofs covered with thatch or gray pantiles faces the beach, the main thoroughfare to Sugita, along which long lines of rusty archaic junks may often be seen drawn up from the wash of the waves. The dwellers here seem to have solved the economic problem of the simple life, and on a sunny spring day, when fishermen mend their long brown nets or work in small gardens, when happy children add their winsome voices to the music of many birds, and the clatter of barnyard fowl rises above the deep, resonant monotone of humming insect life, the scene is one of charming tranquillity.

Kamakura, Miyanoshita and the Hakone region, Fujiyama and other places are all popular with travelers and are described later. An exceptionally pleasant all-day excursion is to Atami, described on pages 61-62, 46 miles to the southwest on the Imperial Government Railway Line. Special excursions at low rates are run in March, when thousands of people converge on the town to witness the magnificent display, one of the finest in Japan, of plum blossoms.

The Traffic Department of the Government Railways and the Japan Tourist Bureau issue handsome illustrated booklets, free, descriptive of the Atami region and quoting fares, departure times of trains, and other information. The town is one of the most popular resorts of Central Japan and will prove quaint and interesting to the stranger.

The Yokohama Nursery on the Bluff is the objective point of many tourists and one of the pleasantest of the short walks in the neighborhood, about two hours there and back. The gardens, well worth seeing, contain a fine collection of Japanese plants, many of which seem always in flower. The dwarf plants, at moderate prices, make pleasant adjuncts to the hotel room. Cut flowers are for sale, and English is spoken.

Sugita, a somnolent fishing village about five miles from the Hotel New Grand, faces Mississippi Bay and is of interest chiefly for the plum trees which bloom in profusion in early spring. Tomioka, a similar fishing village half a mile beyond Sugita, is less interesting than the hinterland, which is hilly and has excellent sea views. At a nearby village called Nokendo stands a pine tree where a native artist is said to have cast away his brush in despair because he could not faithfully portray the spectacular beauty of the scene. The Plains of Heaven overlook eight sights of more interest to natives than to foreigners.

The Treaty of Kanagawa.

The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, desiring to establish firm, lasting, and sincere friendship between the two nations, resolved by means of a Treaty or General Convention of Amity to fix clearly the rules to be mutually observed in the intercourse of their respective countries. President of the United States conferred full powers on Matthew Calbraith Perry, Special Ambassador of the United States to Japan, and the August Sovereign of Japan gave similar powers to Hayashi, Daigaku-no-kami, Ido, prince of Tsushima, Izawa, prince of Mimasaki, and Udono, member of the Board of Revenue. The commissioners, having exchanged full powers and considered the matter, agreed to the articles that followed.

Article I declared a perfect, permanent and universal peace, and sincere cordial amity between the United States and the Empire of Japan and their peoples, without exception of persons or places. Article II granted the ports of Simoda in Idzu and Hakodade in Matsmai as ports for American ships, where wood, water, provisions, coal, and other necessary articles could be supplied as far as the Japanese possessed them. Simoda was to be opened immediately on signing; Hakodade immediately after the same day in the ensuing Japanese year. A tariff of prices was to be given by Japanese officers, with payment in gold and silver coin.

Article III provided that when ships of the United States were driven ashore or wrecked on the coasts of Japan, Japanese vessels would assist them, carry their crews to Simoda or Hakodade, hand them over to Americans appointed to receive them, and restore preserved articles, without repayment of rescue and support expenses by either side. Article IV stated that shipwrecked persons and other citizens of the United States should be free as in other countries and not confined, though amenable to just laws. Article V gave shipwrecked men and other citizens temporarily living at Simoda and Hakodade freedom from the restrictions placed on Dutch and Chinese at Nagasaki, allowing them at Simoda to go within seven Japanese ri or miles of a small island in the harbor, and at Hakodade within limits to be defined after the visit of the United States squadron.

Article VI provided for careful deliberation between the parties if other goods were wanted or business required arrangement. Article VII permitted United States ships using the open ports to exchange gold and silver coin and goods for other goods under temporary regulations established by the Japanese Government, while allowing them to carry away articles they were unwilling to exchange. Article VIII required wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods to be procured only through Japanese officers appointed for that purpose. Article IX granted the United States and its citizens any future privileges and advantages Japan might grant to other nations, without consultation or delay.

Article X limited United States ships to Simoda and Hakodade unless in distress or forced by weather. Article XI allowed the United States Government to appoint consuls or agents to reside in Simoda any time after 18 months from signing if either government deemed it necessary. Article XII declared the convention obligatory and faithfully to be observed by the United States and Japan and by the citizens and subjects of each, subject to ratification by the President of the United States with the Senate's advice and consent and by the Sovereign of Japan, with ratifications exchanged within 18 months or sooner if possible. The treaty was done at Kanagawa on Friday, March 31, 1854, Kayei 7th year, 3rd month, 3rd day, as quoted from S. Wells Williams's Journal of the Perry Expedition to Japan, 1853-54.

Before the signing of the treaty an interchange of presents was effected. Those sent by the Government of the United States to Japan were unloaded on the Kanagawa beach, and while they looked strange enough to the people of that period, their list looks stranger still now, considering the marvelous progress the Japanese had made in the meantime. Perry's Narrative, volume 1, page 357, says that by eleven o'clock on the morning of March 13, 1854, all presents destined for the Emperor, his councilors, and the five commissioners had been landed on the beach ready to take ashore. Most were landed without injury and placed under cover, agricultural implements forming the largest bulk.

The Emperor's presents included a one-quarter-size miniature steam engine with track, tender and car; a telegraph with three miles of wire and gutta-percha wire; a Francis copper lifeboat; a copper surf boat; a collection of agricultural implements; Audubon's Birds in nine volumes; Natural History of the State of New York in ten volumes; Annals of Congress in four volumes; laws and documents of the State of New York; journals of the Senate and Assembly of New York; Lighthouse Reports in two volumes; Bancroft's History of the United States in four volumes; Farmer's Guide in two volumes; United States Coast Survey charts; Morris's Engineering; a silver-topped dressing case; scarlet broadcloth and velvet; United States standard yard, gallon, bushel, balances and weights; Madeira, whiskey, champagne, cherry cordial and maraschino; boxes of fine tea; maps, lithographs, a telescope and stand, a sheet-iron stove, perfumery, Hall's rifles, Maynard muskets, cavalry and artillery swords, a carbine, army pistols, catalogues of the New York State Library and post offices, and two mail bags with padlocks.

Gifts for the Empress were a flowered silk embroidered dress, a gilded toilet dressing box, and six dozen assorted perfumery. For Commissioner Hayashi there were Audubon's Quadrupeds, scarlet broadcloth, a clock, a stove, a rifle, a set of chinaware, a revolver and box of powder, assorted perfumery, 20 gallons of whiskey, a sword, boxes of fine tea, champagne, and finer tea. For Abe, prince of Ishi, there were a copper lifeboat, Kendall's War in Mexico and Ripley's history of that war, champagne, fine tea, 20 gallons of whiskey, a clock, a stove, a rifle, a sword, a revolver and powder, assorted perfumery, and scarlet cloth.

For Makino, prince of Bizen, there were Lossing's Field Book of the Revolution, ten gallons of whiskey, a Cabinet of Natural History of New York, one lithograph, a clock, a revolver, a sword, a rifle, and one dozen perfumery.

For Matsudaira, prince of Idzumi, there were Owen's Architecture, one dozen perfumery, a view of Washington and plan of the city, a clock, a rifle, a sword, a revolver, and 10 gallons of whiskey. For Matsudaira, prince of Iga, there were Documentary History of New York, a lithograph of a steamer, 12 assorted perfumery, a clock, a sword, a rifle, a revolver, and 10 gallons of whiskey. For Kuze, prince of Yamato, there were Downing's Country Houses, a view of San Francisco, nine bottles of perfumery, a revolver, a clock, a rifle, a sword, and 10 gallons of whiskey. For Naito, prince of Ki, there were Owen's Geology of Minnesota and maps, a lithograph of Georgetown, D.C., a clock, a rifle, a sword, a revolver, nine assorted perfumery, and 10 gallons of whiskey.

For Ido, prince of Tsushima, there were Appleton's Dictionary in two volumes, nine assorted perfumery, a lithograph of New Orleans, a box of tea, a sword, a rifle, a revolver, a clock, a box of cherry cordial, and five gallons of whiskey. For Izawa, prince of Mimasaki, there were a model of a lifeboat, a view of the steamer Atlantic, a rifle, a clock, a sword, a revolver, nine assorted perfumery, a box of cherry cordial, a small box of tea, a brass howitzer and two carriages, and five gallons of whiskey. For Udono, fourth commissioner, there were a list of post offices, a box of tea, a lithograph of an elephant, nine bottles of perfumery, a rifle, a revolver, a clock, and five gallons of whiskey. For Matsusaki Michitaro, fifth commissioner, suspected of being a government spy, there were a lithograph of a steamer, a revolver, six bottles of perfumery, a clock, a sword, a box of tea, one of cherry cordial, and five gallons of whiskey.

The return gifts from the Emperor and the princes included beautiful specimens of gold lacquer, bronze, silver, porcelain, many rolls of fine silk brocade and pongee, many lacquered articles of rare merit, a number of rolls of fine crape, figured matting, jars of soy, coral and silver ornaments, flowered papers, superb specimens of Japanese spaniels, four from the Emperor to the President of the United States, and many minor articles. There were 132 pieces of silk, besides which the Emperor sent to the squadron 300 chickens and 200 bundles of rice, each bundle containing five pecks.

After the presents were formally delivered, selected American officers and workmen were diligently engaged day after day in unpacking and arranging them for exhibition. The Japanese authorities offered every facility; their laborers built sheds to protect the articles from bad weather; level ground was assigned for laying the circular track for the little locomotive; and posts were brought and erected for the telegraph wires. The Japanese took a ready part in all the work and watched the assembly of the machinery with innocent, childlike delight. Under the direction of Messrs. Draper and Williams, the telegraph apparatus was soon in working order, with wires extending nearly a mile in a straight line from the treaty house to another building allotted for the purpose. When communication opened between the operators at either end, the Japanese watched the modus operandi with intense curiosity and were greatly amazed that messages could be conveyed instantly in English, Dutch, and Japanese from one building to the other. Day after day dignitaries and many people gathered, eagerly asking the operators to work the telegraph and watching the sending and receiving of messages with undiminished interest.

Nor did the railway, with its Lilliputian locomotive, car, and tender, excite less interest. All parts of the mechanism were perfect, and the car was a tasteful specimen of workmanship, but so small that it could hardly carry a child of six. The Japanese, however, were not to be cheated out of a ride; unable to reduce themselves to the capacity of the carriage interior, they took to the roof. It was a spectacle not a little ludicrous to behold a dignified mandarin whirling around the circular road at twenty miles an hour, with loose robes flying in the wind.